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- #21
Today's mail
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monkeyboy_uk
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- Thread starter
- #24
Little bit of an update.
M2C Racing center brace installled.
Servo in, EC5 connector on the ESC, and 6.5mm bullets soldered on the motor leads. Just waiting on the motor to complete the wiring.
I purchased that M2C Racing servo horn to have something different. After mocking up the fitment it's not going to work with a Tekno without shimming the servo horn up a bit on the servo gear to run the steering link on the bottom of the horn (which was my original plan), or a bunch of shims on the bellcrank to run it on top. Either scenario didn't seem ideal to me in order to keep the link level, so I just ordered a Tekno 25T servo horn. Oh well. Live and learn.
M2C Racing center brace installled.
Servo in, EC5 connector on the ESC, and 6.5mm bullets soldered on the motor leads. Just waiting on the motor to complete the wiring.
I purchased that M2C Racing servo horn to have something different. After mocking up the fitment it's not going to work with a Tekno without shimming the servo horn up a bit on the servo gear to run the steering link on the bottom of the horn (which was my original plan), or a bunch of shims on the bellcrank to run it on top. Either scenario didn't seem ideal to me in order to keep the link level, so I just ordered a Tekno 25T servo horn. Oh well. Live and learn.
Overkill
Well-known member
Good to see you back at it Pauly
- Thread starter
- #26
Good to see you here man.Good to see you back at it Pauly
It was time. Got rid of the 1st one and the ET. Needed some cash for life. Lol. Was gonna send you a message today and see if you had any luck with your cat man order. Figured you would've let me know tho.
How did your M2C brace fit? 0verkill said his 2nd one didn't fit well (like mine) but his 1st batch one that he got earlier fit perfectly. seems M2C had some differences in the batches. i've actually got mine packed back up to return it because there is no way it will fit under the steering top plate w/o bending the top plate..i if i ever get my hands on the alum steering plate there is no way it would fit w/o filing the brace down... I see they're backordered again now so i'm hoping the new batch will fit better but sucks that I'll probably have to wait weeks for it.
i see what you're saying about the servo horn. hmm my protek servo came with an alum horn similar to the m2c (non-clamping) but it does sit lower on the spline, it's probably a lot cheaper than the tekno, however I do like the clamping one better, it is beefier and that clamp style is cooler.
i think it still may sit a hair higher than the bellcrank link, i never noticed if it was off by any amount, never bothered me or caused any issue if it isn't totally flat.. i'll take a closer look at it tonight and post up a pic of how flat it is.
i just relaized the one pictured is clamping, the one my servo came with isn't clamping type but it has the same height offset ... looks like theyre $12 vs $16 for the tekno, I'd just go for the tekno for $4 and be done...
i think it still may sit a hair higher than the bellcrank link, i never noticed if it was off by any amount, never bothered me or caused any issue if it isn't totally flat.. i'll take a closer look at it tonight and post up a pic of how flat it is.
i just relaized the one pictured is clamping, the one my servo came with isn't clamping type but it has the same height offset ... looks like theyre $12 vs $16 for the tekno, I'd just go for the tekno for $4 and be done...
Last edited:
TooTall
Active member
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- Tekno RC's
- MT410
I just installed the full center crace from M2C in mine, and when I first went to install, the hole attached by the steering plate wouldn't line up, then I realized I needed to leave the screws along the bottom loose and get them all started before tightening them down.
When I did that it went together just fine. I just received mine within last two weeks.
TT
When I did that it went together just fine. I just received mine within last two weeks.
TT
- Thread starter
- #30
My center brace fit ok. The holes were about 1mm off on the chassis holes after I started the screws in the steering plate and motor mount. Took just a bit of chassis flex to line everything up. I was able to do it with one hand and start the screws with the other.
Tekno horn is in route. Now I have a 25T servo horn to use elsewhere
Tekno horn is in route. Now I have a 25T servo horn to use elsewhere
same here, you have to leave all of the screws loose for sure, but mine, the brace actually sat up higher at the steering plate vs the stock plastic one. I am not able to slide the brace in place without removing the steering plate, it doesn't fit under it without first loosening the steering post bolts, but then it bens the steering plate down on the sides because the middle (brace mount point) sits up higher. if and when I get an alum plate, that won't be an option. hopefully I just got a bad one. i am going to ship it back today.
did you have to loosen your steering post bolts to slide the brace under the steering plate?
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- #32
Negative. Slid right under with no issues.
ok thanks. then mine is going back for sure, i'd rather roll the dice on another one once more than have to modify mine to fit ... weird that they are so finicky. i think it's kind of ridiculous that you have to muscle them in with so much effort considering the stock ones silp right into place w/o having to loosen any screws, but I guess that's how aftermarket parts are, they never fit perfectly, it's no different working on a real car...
- Thread starter
- #34
Mass producing any part can always end in tolerance issues. Hope you have better luck with round 2 cuz it's a nice upgrade IMO. If I remember correctly you were part of the tolerance issue with the motor puck binding in the slide, as was I when it was 1st released?
nope i didn't have the issue with that but I do recall that discussion as well... yeah even if the new one doesn't fit great i will make it work. it did seem like my chassis isn't completely flat for some reason so honestly maybe it is just my truck that is tweaked a bit but the factory pieces slip in like a glove but they also aren't attached to each other. i was considering just cutting the brace in half but then i sure can't return it! so i figure i'll switch it out and keep whatever shows up next time.
when your tekno horn shows up can you take a look at how many threads are on the horn for the linkage screw ball? by the pics it looks like the tekno has like half of the amount of threads as the protek horn, maybe they do that for weight reduction, not sure, I kind of don't like that and wonder if the picture is deceiving. I'm knida wanting a clamping style horn now ha ha, but just noticed that.
- Thread starter
- #37
Will do. Should have it Wed or Thurs.
They updated their servo horn awhile back. I purchased the TKR5253B which gives you the 2 mounting holes for the linkage and a 3mm clamping screw. There isn't much for threads in the horn itself because it's a countersunk hole on the servo side of the horn, so you're losing some of the thread depth from the counter bore. If that makes sense.
Will do. Should have it Wed or Thurs.
trying to wrap my head around why it would be countersunk on the bottom side of the horn if the ball mounts on top. can't seem to find a picture anywhere of the bottom...
- Thread starter
- #39
Because the servo steps down to allow the linkage to lay flat on the bellcrank, they put a countersunk hole in the bottom to clear the servo. A button head would most likely hit the servo. The stock plastic ones are the same and not threaded.
Ah gotcha... so the aluminum is set up the same way and actually has no threads... so you'll need a nut on top and countersunk screw mounted from bottom.
sorry for the ridiculously stupid question. i built mine over 1.5 years ago and used the Protek horn from day one so I never paid any attention to the stock setup.
So in contrast, the way I'm set up, the horn threads IS the nut... and I'm using a cap head screw mounted from the top. I get it now. the one thing about using the horn as a nut is then you don't have to hold the screw head on the bottom while tightening a nut, so it's a lot easier to take on and off!
sorry for the ridiculously stupid question. i built mine over 1.5 years ago and used the Protek horn from day one so I never paid any attention to the stock setup.
So in contrast, the way I'm set up, the horn threads IS the nut... and I'm using a cap head screw mounted from the top. I get it now. the one thing about using the horn as a nut is then you don't have to hold the screw head on the bottom while tightening a nut, so it's a lot easier to take on and off!
