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Yes I did both center drive shafts. You have to because the SCT uses smaller out drives than the 1/8 stuff and the longer rear shaft wouldn't fit in the stock out drives.can't wait to see it! do you need both driveshafts? i thought you could re-use the sct driveshaft in the front and only needed the longer rear one...
The posts came out amazing! I need to copy that. I’m going to order the parts right now. Wow!Thanks T-Buggy.
Here's some progress or if nothing else some time reading material
Front and rear installed on M2C Racing chassis. Diffs are done with PT Racing fluids with 15K front/10K rear. 1/8 scale diff couplers also installed.
Underside pic of the chassis. DE Racing rear skid installed to compliment the M2C chassis skid.
Center drive line installed. Center diff has Traxxas 500K diff fluid in it. Running composite spur. M2C Racing rear chassis brace. Both center driveshafts are aluminum. Trying to come in around 8lbs max when finished.
Savox 1270TG servo installed and dropped on the Tekno 25T servo horn. As you can see I have the .4 steering upgrade that is also ran on the MT410.
All wired up!! Hobbywing Xerun XR8 SCT ESC paired with 3660 3600KV Hobbywing motor. Running 3S and geared with a 14T Tekno pinion.
Cage is ready to be fitted. Had some ideas already going in. Lets see how it went
Went pretty damn well if you ask me Was able to configure some mounts to use the stock Nomad mounting holes and be able to use body clips or Pro-Line thumb screws.
Had some HPI Apache SC mounts laying around. HPI107429. Post spacing was spot on and they're very adjustable. Used a 3mm screw thru an unused shock mounting hole and a couple 3mm flanged nuts for spacers on the tower. Had to invert the front mount to clear the studs on the standoffs, but zero modding to the plastic mounts were needed. This was on the front.
For the rear I actually used an extra set of shock standoffs I had for spacing. Again just used an extra shock mounting hole on the tower. Used nuts as spacers on the 5mm side of the standoff where the shock cap bushing would sit and again needed no modding of the plastic. Washers and 3mm nuts and done.
My apologies for being brief, but I crammed a bunch of info in this post and wanted to touch briefly on what unfolded in the past 5 hours or so.
Suspension: Running stock SCT settings for kickup, antisquat, and toe. Running the aluminum A & C blocks at the moment. The shocks are also filled with PT fluids. 450CST front/300CST rear. Shocks are fully decked with all the Tekno aluminum upgrades. Delrin CNC'd internals, 8 x 1.3 pistons drilled to 1.5mm. For springs I went with the LF stock springs from the EB48.4 buggy. Orange in the rear/black up front. As long as I can get my desired ride height they will stay for testing because they feel nice and plush. Shocks are built emulsion style
That's it for night 1. Panels tomorrow while I'm charging packs for Friday's SCT racing.
Thanks buddy! You know my speedy builds by nowOne night? JFC that would take me a month or more. Looks Awesome.
Thanks Hye. Those posts may not be so easy to source either. I have used them in a few other builds so I had them on hand. I originally had intended to use the Nomad body mounts but of course are sold out everywhere as well.The posts came out amazing! I need to copy that. I’m going to order the parts right now. Wow!
Thanks Bill. I'll let you know how it runs soon enough. Might be the push you need for a conversion. Lol. More to come this eveninglooks beautiful... very tempting to convert my SCT410.1 if the 4WD SCT truly dies off in my area... the class has been on the fringe for a while now
I found the mounts and ordered 3. Never know if I’ll need them in the future lolThanks buddy! You know my speedy builds by now
Thanks Hye. Those posts may not be so easy to source either. I have used them in a few other builds so I had them on hand. I originally had intended to use the Nomad body mounts but of course are sold out everywhere as well.
Freakin awesome test. Low, Mid and High speed seem perfect. Tires bite but are loose too. Maybe a little suspension and diff fluid test after the rock work. Looked to articulate well and kept the line 85% of the way. Very very nice so far. Look forward to hearing about your first race.Seems pretty dialed as it sits. It's definitely a blast to drive The HW combo seems great going slow or fast. Motor was 92 degrees after that run. May creep up some more but I can't see heat being an issue and may be able to gear up. Right now RTR minus panels and driver I'm at 8lbs .08oz. I'm assuming around 8.5lbs when it's finished.
Yeah man I was skeptical on using the HW in this application but so far so good. I really didn't expect crawling speeds to be that smooth. I need to preload the rear suspension just a tad. It's sagging a bit more than I wanted, but I was trying to push before I ran out of daylight. Shooting for keeping the arms level for ride height. Don't really a set measurement in mind but the front was perfect and the rear a little lower than my goal ATM. I was concerned about cornering with the extended WB but obviously that's a non issue. Pretty happy with it as it sits. It's pretty much point and shootFreakin awesome test. Low, Mid and High speed seem perfect. Tires bite but are loose too. Maybe a little suspension and diff fluid test after the rock work. Looked to articulate well and kept the line 85% of the way. Very very nice so far. Look forward to hearing about your first race.
Thanks buddy. Yeah I tend to work right thru builds pretty quick as long as parts are in hand. Been doing this for a few years. Lol. I'm cutting custom panels much like you did. Thought about using the Nomad panels but I also had a thought in my head of possibly using the stock SCT mounts and using the aluminum panels with body holes in them to mount the cage. The raw aluminum look is right up my alley anywaysAwesome! You work fast. Mine will be done soon lol. What are your plans for panels?
Thanks man. I noticed you had those as well after looking back thru your thread. I sanded my wheels with 200 grit and cleaned them well throughout the bead area. The J Concepts CA glue is some of the best I've used over the years and I noticed the same thing even tho I had some pretty aggressive scuffing in the grooves vs. using scotch brite. It really took a ton of glue to get a good hold and think I should've of possibly used shoe goo as Gear Head suggested as an alternative. Time will tell tho ESC is only rated for 4S and the motor for 3S so my temptations of volting up are pretty much squashed. My local track has a small rock race course and will be doing a few events over the summer as well as crawling and the short course racing. Now I'm inLooking great Pauly!. I also have a set of Hyraxes on the lightweight aluminum GearHead wheels. I’ve had problems keeping the tires on the rims. I scuffed with scotch brite, cleaned the wheels and tire bead really well before glueing. CA glue just does not adhere to aluminum as well as it does to plastic. ....or maybe it’s because I ran 5s a few times. I’d stick to 3s with those wheels/tires if you want them to stay together.
Do you have a track that holds races for that class near you?
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