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BUILD/REVIEW EB48 2.0

Billl DeLong

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This will be a live post that I will update regularly as new information becomes available. Although this thread will be targeted for club racing, I expect a lot of this information may be useful for bashers as well. I am a club racer who has been a basher since 1986 and got into club racing around 2010.

I have about 4 years of experience racing the EB48.3 and EB48.4 platforms. I have taken a break from 1/8 racing for the past 18+ months as 1/10 racing has been far more enjoyable for me, though due to low turnout for 1/10 racing in my area lately, the time has come for me to get back into 1/8 again.

I would consider my skill level as an "Expert Driver", probably one of the slowest of the "Fast Guys" in my area who averages between 96%-98% consistency. I will be sharing many things that I have learned from other racers as well as experiences I've learned to make things go more smoothly. This won't be a typical build, I have already had the pleasure of seeing some custom "essential" upgrades that I will be leveraging along the way so look for more to come soon!

*** 6-SEP-2010 Order placed for kit through TEKNO using their military discount, expect kit to arrive the week of 14th and will provide more updates then

RCTech EB48 2.0 Thread
USER MANUAL
Setup for hard pack dirt by Chris Allison --> This is going to be my starting setup

Hits:
  • One of the most durable platforms on the market
  • 50% Lifetime Warranty
  • Quick access to all 3 diffs
  • Industry leading geometry loaded with more tuning options than anyone else on the market currently
Misses:
  • Most of the parts are not backward compatible
    • May need to buy all new sets of spare parts for pit box
  • Rx box is not dust proof, there is an over sized hole for the wiring that should be filled
Summary:
  • TEKNO sets the standard for most other race grade brands to follow in this class! They check off all the boxes for being one of the most competitive, durable and high quality products backed with plenty of team driver support as well as one of the best parts support supply chains on the planet! You can't go wrong with this platform for either a basher or a racer.
Recommended Upgrades:
Recommended Tools:
Build Tips:
 
Last edited:

Billl DeLong

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This isn't everything, but includes most of the upgrades I will be putting into this build, more to come soon!

 

Billl DeLong

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Racer
Here are all the fluids that come with the kit:




I don't plan on using any of these fluids for my initial setup, (see Chris Allison's setup above which will be my starting point).

I prefer to use a gel based thread lock which has proven to be far more reliable for me:
https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-12506BC-Removable-Anaerobic-Threadlocker/dp/B078GYK76P/



I also prefer a tinted grease so I can tell when it has been properly applied and also check that it needs to be replaced when it turns black:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCB00201



I like to pack the grease into a 10cc syringe and use a "skewer" method to insert greased seals into the diffs/shocks, etc... the following example photo is from my SCT410 build:

 

TBuggy

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@Billl DeLong I was going to get a few of those SMC LiPos that you have in your pic. Have you heard good things about them? I haven't seen anyone with them yet.

I figured for the price, they are hard to pass on.
 

Billl DeLong

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@TBuggy , I have not ran SMC packs in a couple of years, the "Graphene Extreme" series is relatively new, plus they're an LCG variant and are the lowest price LCG pack I can find right now. In the past I have found SMC to last about 6 months on average, but hoping these might last a little longer... I have a higher quality charger these days so I'm hoping this pack might last close to a year, time will tell :)

Of the "budget" brands of batteries out there, I consider SMC a very good quality brand, but if you want high quality, then you can't beat the Trinity White Carbon, but you're gonna pay more for what you get ;)

https://www.teamtrinity.com/tep2319-lcg-white-carbon-5500-148v-.html
 

Skynet5

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Be interested to see your plus orientation.

I should have gone SCT first time round as it's slightly smaller. The plus had mounting holes, but the orientation is opposite to that of the tray so doesn't lay up against it and overlaps onto the chassis.

For the plus I had a few issues with it moving in damp conditions. So I've put two slits in the tray and zip tied it down with VHB underneath as a dampener.
 
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Billl DeLong

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"Plus Orientation"?

Are you referring to the ESC?
 

Billl DeLong

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A BAG:

I recommend using the following method to build the diffs:

Here's the skewer method I mentioned earlier to use the out drive to stuff the rubber seal deep into the diff:



You can see here that I've filled the fluid flush with all the gears before installing the spur/crown gear(s):


Note that I place 4 small dabs of grease behind the gasket to hold it in place:


I like to use a straight pick to ensure the holes are perfectly aligned before driving the screws in place:


I like to use a silver sharpie to mark my diff fluids so I know what was installed to make rebuilds go faster for easy maintenance:
 

Billl DeLong

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B BAG:

Pretty much same process as the A BAG:

 

Billl DeLong

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C BAG:

This step is fairly straight forward, while not seen in the pic, I have decided to drill custom camber link holes in the tower to increase the length of the turn buckles so that the hardware of the ball ends align perfectly with the pins of the suspension arms. This will be referred as the "Long Link Conversion", this will require running the longer rear camber links on the front in order to work properly, more info about this mod later in the build:

 

Billl DeLong

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D BAG:

Doesn't matter what kit I build, the D BAG is always my favorite step!

I will be doing the "Long Link Conversion" on the rear as well, I used a ruler to align the holes along the center. I noticed that my mark was slightly off on the right so I was careful to place my drill bit accordingly, I used a 1/16" bit for the pilot hole, followed with a 7/64" bit and then finally bored out each hole with a 3.0mm bit:





 

Billl DeLong

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E BAG:

Nothing special to note in this step, I really like the bushings on the arms so there is no need to ream the holes anymore, thanks TEKNO!

 

Billl DeLong

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H BAG:

I have opted to buy the "Kingpin Camber Link" kit from Team Thornhill, I bought the V1 kit which is no longer available, they are about to release a V2 of the kit which includes the longer rear camber links, I will be picking these up later this week so I can't use the new holes just yet. Note the left over parts are what is not needed from the stock kit after using the Team Thornhill parts:



The following is what you will get in the V2 kit from Team Thorhill, currently priced for $40:
119058385_10217747587908966_3366911754000669115_o.jpg


119136534_10217747587708961_8952924882977414983_o.jpg
119064471_10217747588188973_2079357531489289787_o.jpg


You can contact Team Thornhill here to place a special order with them over the phone/email:
https://www.facebook.com/ThornhillRacingCircuit


*** Side note: while the manual recommends grease to be used on the CVD pins, I prefer to spray them with WD-40 Dry Lube PTFE spray:
 
Last edited:

Billl DeLong

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704
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Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET48, ET410, MT410, SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
I BAG:

I find it extremely useful to use the 17mm TEKNO Pliers for holding the hubs in BAGS F and H earlier when threading in the grub screw, I also use that wrench for tightening the nut on the servo saver too!




I will not be using the server saver and have opted for the plastic locked steering rack, I will be using a 440 oz-in servo and hope that will be strong enough, if I start stripping servo gears, then I'll put the servo saver back in place:

 

Billl DeLong

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TF Excellence Award
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Messages
704
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592
Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET48, ET410, MT410, SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
J BAG:

So I just realized that I had a greasy finger print smudge over the lens and just wiped it clean, wish I noticed that sooner so the quality of the pics should be better from here out, ha!

Note that the ackermann bar is reversible, I have opted not to use the screws for the back stops on the steering limiter:

 
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