Tbuggy's ET410

[TBuggy]

Well its in and I am super excited for this build! Plan to run this mostly at the outdoor track but may bring it indoors later on down the road. I have a couple of parts that were extras and some pulled from other rigs that I will be using to get this up and going.

Parts list:

Electronics;
ESC- Team Orion R10 (160amp)
Motor- Tekin Pro4 4600kv
Servo- Protek 130T

Extras (so far);
Tekno front sway bar set
T-bone front skid/bumper
T-bone rear skid
Exotek center diff brace

Going to run some short course truck wheels I already had for now but will probably switch it up for some stadium truck wheels later, especially for when I take it indoors.

More to add thats for sure, I haven't even picked up any pinions. Not sure if I am going to worry about aluminum caps quite yet. Will probably be picking up some aluminum hubs and some rear outer hinge pins with the captured nut. Maybe get some steering upgrades later down the road as well. I figure this will be an ongoing thread being updated as time goes on. But of course the best part...the build! I will try to get started tomorrow evening if all goes well!

Stay tuned for more.

Thanx!

 

[TBuggy]

I got my diffs built. Had to setup a temp work station for this build. My typical spot is occupied with other projects ATM.

"A" and "B" bags ready to assemble; Center, front and rear diffs.

Personally I like to get everything greased up ahead of time that I know will need to be. That way once I start building the diffs I can pretty much do it from beginning to end without any slowdowns in between steps.

Grease up them O-rings!

I use a little pic to poke through the one of the holes in the spur and ring gears to make sure I line up the gasket properly. I grease the spur and the ring gears and one side of the gasket.

Now to fill the diff cases. I like to place the first sun gear in and then pour the oil in until the gear is completely covered. Then I place in the planetary gears and fill until they are covered. Once I have them all fill to that level I place the last sun gear on top. After waiting for any last air bubbles to rise I take my thumb and wipe the oil flush with the top of the diff case.

I make sure to align the slot so it is aligned between two screw holes. I do this so I can place the ring and spur gears on without issues. Then I align the pin the same direction on the ring and spur gears.

Once I have placed the ring and spur gears in place I use my pic again to make sure everything is lined up before tightened down the screws.

Just like anything round when you tighten it down remember to alternate the sides that you are tightening and only do it a little at a time until they are snug. This helps make the gears sit evenly as possible.

Diffs complete and front end next.....stay tuned!

 

[want2bercracer]

I got my diffs built. Had to setup a temp work station for this build. My typical spot is occupied with other projects ATM.

View attachment 1167

"A" and "B" bags ready to assemble; Center, front and rear diffs.
View attachment 1151
View attachment 1168

Personally I like to get everything greased up ahead of time that I know will need to be. That way once I start building the diffs I can pretty much do it from beginning to end without any slowdowns in between steps.
View attachment 1153
View attachment 1156
View attachment 1155

Grease up them O-rings!
View attachment 1157

View attachment 1169

I use a little pic to poke through the one of the holes in the spur and ring gears to make sure I line up the gasket properly. I grease the spur and the ring gears and one side of the gasket.
View attachment 1170
View attachment 1172

Now to fill the diff cases. I like to place the first sun gear in and then pour the oil in until the gear is completely covered. Then I place in the planetary gears and fill until they are covered. Once I have them all fill to that level I place the last sun gear on top. After waiting for any last air bubbles to rise I take my thumb and wipe the oil flush with the top of the diff case.
View attachment 1162
View attachment 1163


I make sure to align the slot so it is aligned between two screw holes. I do this so I can place the ring and spur gears on without issues. Then I align the pin the same direction on the ring and spur gears.
View attachment 1164

Once I have placed the ring and spur gears in place I use my pic again to make sure everything is lined up before tightened down the screws.
View attachment 1165


Just like anything round when you tighten it down remember to alternate the sides that you are tightening and only do it a little at a time until they are snug. This helps make the gears sit evenly as possible.
View attachment 1166

Diffs complete and front end next.....stay tuned!

 

[want2bercracer]

Well organized. Im sure it will turn out perfect. thanks for the insight.

 

[want2bercracer]

Going to run some short course truck wheels I already had for now but will probably switch it up for some stadium truck wheels later, especially for when I take it indoors.

Are those traxxas wheels front and rear or are all four rears?

 

[TBuggy]

Going to run some short course truck wheels I already had for now but will probably switch it up for some stadium truck wheels later, especially for when I take it indoors.

Are those traxxas wheels front and rear or are all four rears?

They are for the 4wd slash so front and rear are the same.

EDIT: 4wd slash are the same as the rear 2wd rears. So yes they are all rear wheels.

 

[TBuggy]

"C" bag

Nothing really special here compared to the EB410, same bell crank. Its pretty straight forward when assembling.

When I install the outdrive, I hold my thumb on the pinion gear inside the case and my pointer finger on the out drive and press together while screwing down the grub screw. Also making sure to apply thread locker before tightening down.

Now on to the steering assembly. First the steering posts. Only trick here is to make sure you are tightening them down at the correct angle. Line them up as you can see in the picture.

Make sure when you tighten them down you maintain free movement in the steering rack. They should just flop from side to side by gravity as you tilt the front end one way or the other.

Now time to throw in the front diff. I am not shy when it comes to greasing the ring gears up.

Front end complete (well bag "C" anyhow)!

 

[TBuggy]

"D" bag!

This is just the rear end and not much to it lot less picture of this part but I pointed out one little tip. Otherwise its just like the front minus the steering rack.

When installing the wing mounts I like to place a small drop of CA glue to the nut on the opposite side of the tower. This makes installation and or removal way easy.

I did seem to have a little trouble getting the diff in the case when I had the bearings on. It was almost like the lip the seats the bearings was to tight. I had to chamfer the top and bottom corners to work the diff in. This was a little trick I remember seeing on one of Lutz's videos a while back. All in all everything has went pretty smooth though to this point.

 

[TBuggy]

Bag "E"

Rear arm assembly.

As the manual directs to do, I assembled the the sway bar first. There are a couple things I take note when putting the sway bars together.

One make sure you are popping the balls into the correct side of the cup. If you look close one side has a slightly bigger opening. That is the side you push the ball into.

Once you popped them on the sway bar then make sure they are completely free moving. Just like the steering rack they should flop down on there own when tipped one way or another.

Installing the sway bar is straight forward. The only thing to pay attention to is how tight you install it. When tightening the grub screws, start by holding the sway bar in the up position and slowly tighten one at a time. While tightening the grub screw keep checking that the sway bar is free falling still. Once you notice it stops free falling, stop tightening and then back it out until it does free fall again. Then repeat for the other grub screw.

Installing the arms is straight forward. They did need a little reaming out to be as free moving as I wanted them to be. I use a chainsaw file attached to a drill. For some reason I forgot to take pics of this process.

Rear end with arms assembled.

Arms should drop down freely when let go.

 

[WoodiE]

I love the detailed build @TBuggy, keep it up!

 

[TBuggy]

I love the detailed build @TBuggy, keep it up!

Thanks Woodie, I figure I would put some extra detail into this build to share. Its easy to just post up pics but I wanted to include some explanations/reasons for why some things were done the way they were as well as include a few tips to make a "tighter" ride.

 

[Slevin]

Looking good man! So organized!! Very nice! Your pictures are detailed and look like they should be in a how to column or article lol

 

[TBuggy]

Looking good man! So organized!! Very nice! Your pictures are detailed and look like they should be in a how to column or article lol

Thanx that was kind of what I was going for LOL! I actually already have it completely built but I wanted to document the build in a way it could be at the very least used as a helpful guide to go along with the manual.

 

[TBuggy]

Bag "F"

Putting the axles together is easy the only thing I do differently from the manual here is add more spacers to the axles to take all the slop out of them. The rear axles only needed one additional spacer to remove the slop/play.

Then on to the turnbuckles. I like to out some chapstick on the threads before screw on the ends. This helps putting them on and for future adjustments.

To install the ends I use a drill. If your drill is a big enough drill you can open up the chuck wide enough that the ends fit all the way in. Then I tighten the chuck down making sure it is centered (it pretty much centers itself) then slowly have the turn the correct direction (remember half of the turnbuckles are reverse threaded.

I made everything to manual specs for this part.

Rear end complete (minus shocks). After everything is put together at this point make sure everything is still free moving. If you feel any binding or catching then now would be the easiest time to correct it before the rear end is installed on the chassis.

More on its way!

 

[TBuggy]

Bag "G"

I will spare details on this part as its pretty much the same as the rear. The only thing I did different is that it took 3 spacers on each of the front hubs to remove all of the slop/play.

You will want to leave the front to screw to "A" block loose. This is due to the most recent update on the chassis. The "A" block is now "keyed" to the chassis. Meaning there is a little protrusion on the chassis that locks into the "A" block.


Bag "I"

Same deal with the turnbuckles as the rear end.

Biggest thing that makes life easier on this step is to install the steering limiter screw/washers before assembling. This another spot a small drop of CA glue helps keep the nut in place on the spindles.

Front end complete (minus shocks)

 

[Slevin]

Is that a pit mat or did you purchase a generic mat and cut it into sections?

 

[TBuggy]

Is that a pit mat or did you purchase a generic mat and cut it into sections?

Its actually a yoga mat and yes I did just cut it up. The yoga mats tend to be cheaper and a lot bigger IME. I cut them to fit in cookie sheets, i do commercial restaurant remodels and maintenance, thats where I get those.

I like the low profile lip on them...nothing rolls away to far ever!

 

[Slevin]

Awesome!!

 

[TBuggy]

Bag "J"

Here is where a few minor of the upgrades I have come into play.

Not much to explain here except this is where the new chassis modification comes into play as well. You can see why you need to leave the front "A" block loose up until this point.

Where is the easy button!?!

All ready for electronics now. I skipped ahead of the shocks portion to completely build the car first. I saved the shocks for last.

 

[TBuggy]

Bag "M"

Make sure that you apply plenty of thread lock on the motor mount screws.

You may want to pull the motor apart so you can rotate the mounting position to the desired direction. I ended having to do this for the tekin Pro4 to get the soldering tabs in an upright position.