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48 2.0 TBuggy's EB48 2.0

DangerD

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can you check if the 2.0 diff would fit in a .3/.4 housing ?
 

BashingBrian

So here I am, I'm Tiny Rick..!!!
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@TBuggy ...

Great write up..👍🏼😁
I'm so glad I bought the Tekno shock tool.😉
Reading this from start to finish has got me all excited to get started on my MT410 😁
 

smirkracing

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You only need to take out 4 screws and then loosen the sway bar grub screws to remove the diff cover.
Thanks so much. Tekno should credit you with another order (as of today, although it is just a pre-order for the next shipment).
 

smirkracing

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Anybody know if the new 2.0 chassis fits the same bodies as the original?
 

TBuggy

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Anybody know if the new 2.0 chassis fits the same bodies as the original?
no the 2.0 is much wider than the older generations. I had a hard time finding a DIY chassis skin that I could use and cut to fit in one piece to cover the now 5 1/2" x 15 1/2" chassis!
 

smirkracing

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Awesome thanks for the info!

Wonder why they went so much wider after all this time with ultra narrow chassis... the chassis on my et48 is so skinny...
 

Matthew_Armeni

Tekno RC Staff
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Awesome thanks for the info!

Wonder why they went so much wider after all this time with ultra narrow chassis... the chassis on my et48 is so skinny...
There are a few reasons we went wider. The first is to have more space on the chassis for electronics, specifically the ESC. The second is that we wanted to decouple the different parts of the car from each other on the chassis. With the previous design everything was as integrated as possible. For example, the battery tray was also the mudguard, the servo mount was attached the mudguard and the rx box. This caused the car to be not just stiff, but unevenly stiff. The new design allows a more even flex across the chassis which makes for a more predictable handling car. Both of these things forced the design to be wider. As a result we were also now getting a third benefit, a greater polar moment of inertia. Often our cars (the electric versions) have been described as "twitchy". This extra width helped to "slow" the car down in left to right transitions.

Even though we're wider than our previous car, I believe we are still one of the narrowest 8th scales available.
 

smirkracing

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Matt, I am impressed that you answer so many questions so thoroughly! Thanks for the great explanation.

The EB48 2.0 will be my third Tekno... the easy-change diffs were the last major feature I was missing, so looking forward to taking delivery of the new kit in a month or so when the next batch arrives.
 

Ifti

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Matt, I am impressed that you answer so many questions so thoroughly! Thanks for the great explanation.

The EB48 2.0 will be my third Tekno... the easy-change diffs were the last major feature I was missing, so looking forward to taking delivery of the new kit in a month or so when the next batch arrives.

Where did you order from?
I'm awaiting mine too!
 

smirkracing

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Tower. Pretty solid discount with coupon (more so if you are a member, but pretty decent even for non-members). I order all my parts from Amain (selection, shipping speed) but full kits from Tower due to the coupon discounts, which are pretty sizable.

Where did you place your order?
 

Ifti

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Tower. Pretty solid discount with coupon (more so if you are a member, but pretty decent even for non-members). I order all my parts from Amain (selection, shipping speed) but full kits from Tower due to the coupon discounts, which are pretty sizable.

Where did you place your order?
Ah, Im in the UK so places to purchase and find parts etc are a little more limited here!
Ordered from https://www.rprcdistribution.com
 

Ifti

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Hey dude, which ESC is this?
Did you shorten the sensor cable or is this the default shorter cable (4 inch?) included in the box?
ESC power switch is seated nicely!

Otherwise, the way you have run all wires is exactly how I envisioned doing mine.....
 

TBuggy

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Hey dude, which ESC is this?
Did you shorten the sensor cable or is this the default shorter cable (4 inch?) included in the box?
ESC power switch is seated nicely!

Otherwise, the way you have run all wires is exactly how I envisioned doing mine.....
I am using the Hobbywing XR8 plus. I did not shorten the sensor cable, I just used some short ones (I believe they were 80mm, which is roughly 3") that I had already. I prefer to keep things tidy as far as wiring goes. I don't like a bunch of stuff flopping around inside the cab.
 

Ifti

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I am using the Hobbywing XR8 plus. I did not shorten the sensor cable, I just used some short ones (I believe they were 80mm, which is roughly 3") that I had already. I prefer to keep things tidy as far as wiring goes. I don't like a bunch of stuff flopping around inside the cab.
Brill. I have also ordered the XR8 Plus, although I was a little concerned about whether it would be a tight fit and whether the sensor cable would fit into the rear of the motor - You've just shown me exactly what I needed to know!
Thanks for helping, yet again! lol
 

TBuggy

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Still haven't drove this thing! I have been super busy with work these days and have been waiting for a couple things to show up (primarily good weather! LOL).
As soon as my paint arrives I can finish my body and get this thing on the track!

Finding a chassis skin that is pre-made for this buggy is impossible at the moment. I dont think anyone has even come out with one yet. All the DIY cut your own haven't been big enough either in length or width mostly width being the issue. At 5 1/2" wide there is almost nothing that fits (that I could find) with one piece. There was one on Ebay that I ordered but when it arrived it was like paper thin. I picked it out because it said it was Arma tough and was extra thick. I am pretty sure i would have spent longer applying it than it would have to rip through and destroy it from running.

Thats when I remembered an awesome thread posted up by our own @Nicochau! Hats off and thanks for being the guinea pig on this material! After I read his report back on the thread after have been using it for 6 months...I was sold!

Installed my favorite aluminum skid plates made by Sumo Racing. Once these wear out I will install the SS skids that I made.
IMG_1072.JPG


Super nice to apply. Lays down very nicely without creating any air bubbles. I chamfered all the edges to help keep the skin from snagging and separating in the future. I will hit it up with a heat gun to make the adhesive really stick, just for peice of mind.
IMG_1073.JPG


Made some mud guards out of some scrap lexan too.
IMG_1075.JPG
 

Nicochau

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Basher
@TBuggy , Let me know how the heat gun worked on the chassis protection mod.

Your buggy looks awesome!
 

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