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BashingBrians MT410..

BashingBrian

So here I am, I'm Tiny Rick..!!!
Supporting Member
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Messages
183
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132
Location
UK
Tekno RC's
MT410
Driving Style
Basher
So here goes, my first Tekno build ever..!! ( apology's for my bad photos πŸ˜‰ )

I've learnt plenty on the Tekno Forums so far, lets just hope it helps me with this build..

Though I'd do a layout shot first, because hey no one has ever done that before have they 🀣.....

IMG_5818.jpeg


Couldn't help myself but when I ordered the truck I decided to get some upgrades straight away.. So in no particular order here they are, emulsion shock caps, alloy lower caps, delrin bushing, wheel nuts, steel spur, wing mount ( just incase πŸ˜‰ ) and finally the holy grail shock tool and wheel nut tool..πŸ€™πŸΌπŸ˜
The alloy spring platforms and servo horn were out of stock when I put my order in, and still are 😩 so I'll get them as soon as they're back in stock..
( I'm trying my hardest not to just order loads of M2C parts 🀣🀣 because I really want to run this thing stock for now..!! )

IMG_5820.jpeg


First part of the build, build the wheel nut tool..!!
This thing has so many uses it's crazyπŸ€ͺ

IMG_5823.jpeg


I've read plenty of posts on here since I joined and I've learned a few tips'n tricks reading @TBuggy builds so I think I'll be good to go from here onwards.😁
Now onto the serious stuff..!!
Everything laid out and ready to go...
Center diff is the first part I'll be tackling, I'll use plenty of green slime on the o-rings and also on the outdrive shafts then I'm going to fill it with 500k,
I'm well impressed with how buttery smooth it is just assembled dry with no shims needed..πŸ‘πŸΌ
( not like a sloppy Arrma diff πŸ€£πŸ˜‰ ) you may notice in the background my upcycled shock stand made out of a redundant truggy wheel πŸ˜‰

IMG_5824.jpeg


So I've just learnt another use for the wheel nut tool..!! It's a diff stand πŸ€”....
While the center diff sits in its new stand I'll start to build the other diffs, again I'm shocked how buttery smooth the diffs are compared to others I've built before..😁

IMG_5826.jpeg


All the parts for the front/rear diffs laid out ready to assemble, not much to say other than these two went together just like the first.
Buttery smooth and no shims required..πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜

IMG_5828.jpeg


And here they are all built up with the oil weights written on the diffs, so...
a: I know which end of the truck they go in... 😁
b: I know the weights for future reference...πŸ‘πŸΌ

IMG_5832.jpeg


I'm going to Dremel the outdrives on the inner edges so as to bed them in and make everything wear better..😎 ( top tip from Mitch aka M2C Racing )

I've got a couple of bodies, but I'll decide later which one to use..πŸ‘πŸΌ as for electronics, wheel/tyres and battery I'm still undecided on what I'm going to use.
I already have some spare Arrma bits and bobs laying around, but I'm now thinking of going Castle/TpPower combo..!!

Well that's it for now...πŸ€™πŸΌ
 
Last edited:

TBuggy

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Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET410, SCT410
Yeah!
Nice, I am subscribed!


Lutz has an older video but Joe just put this one out about breaking in your driveline. Give it a quick watch before you start grinding your brand new out drives.

IMHO I dont think its necessary unless you are racing and you had just swapped out your outdrives and are now heading to a race. The outdrives will naturally break in with use, it will just take a few runs. If you are bashing and not racing I don't think you would even be able to tell the difference other than your parts will wear out a touch faster.
 

Ifti

Premium Member
Supporting Member
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Location
UK
Lovely write up with pics! Love reading these build logs and your text write up along with the pics is awesome!
Keep it up!
Subbed and waiting for next part!!!

Out of curiosity, why did you decide to use the Associated oils rather than whats included in the package?
 

FHE_nld

Well-known member
Messages
132
Reaction score
89
Location
The Netherlands
Tekno RC's
MT410
Driving Style
Basher
So here goes, my first Tekno build ever..!! ( apology's for my bad photos πŸ˜‰ )

I've learnt plenty on the Tekno Forums so far, lets just hope it helps me with this build..

Though I'd do a layout shot first, because hey no one has ever done that before have they 🀣.....

View attachment 4459

Couldn't help myself but when I ordered the truck I decided to get some upgrades straight away.. So in no particular order here they are, emulsion shock caps, alloy lower caps, derlin bushing, wheel nuts, steel spur, wing mount ( just incase πŸ˜‰ ) and finally the holy grail shock tool and wheel nut tool..πŸ€™πŸΌπŸ˜
The alloy spring platforms and servo horn were out of stock when I put my order in, and still are 😩 so I'll get them as soon as they're back in stock..
( I'm trying my hardest not to just order loads of M2C parts 🀣🀣 because I really want to run this thing stock for now..!! )

View attachment 4460

First part of the build, build the wheel nut tool..!!
This thing has so many uses it's crazyπŸ€ͺ

View attachment 4461

I've read plenty of posts on here since I joined and I've learned a few tips'n tricks reading @TBuggy builds so I think I'll be good to go from here onwards.😁
Now onto the serious stuff..!!
Everything laid out and ready to go...
Center diff is the first part I'll be tackling, I'll use plenty of green slime on the o-rings and also on the outdrive shafts then I'm going to fill it with 500k,
I'm well impressed with how buttery smooth it is just assembled dry with no shims needed..πŸ‘πŸΌ
( not like a sloppy Arrma diff πŸ€£πŸ˜‰ ) you may notice in the background my upcycled shock stand made out of a redundant truggy wheel πŸ˜‰

View attachment 4462

So I've just learnt another use for the wheel nut tool..!! It's a diff stand πŸ€”....
While the center diff sits in its new stand I'll start to build the other diffs, again I'm shocked how buttery smooth the diffs are compared to others I've built before..😁

View attachment 4463

All the parts for the front/rear diffs laid out ready to assemble, not much to say other than these two went together just like the first.
Buttery smooth and no shims required..πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜

View attachment 4464

And here they are all built up with the oil weights written on the diffs, so...
a: I know which end of the truck they go in... 😁
b: I know the weights for future reference...πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4465

I'm going to Dremel the outdrives on the inner edges so as to bed them in and make everything wear better..😎 ( top tip from Mitch aka M2C Racing )

I've got a couple of bodies, but I'll decide later which one to use..πŸ‘πŸΌ as for electronics, wheel/tyres and battery I'm still undecided on what I'm going to use.
I already have some spare Arrma bits and bobs laying around, but I'm now thinking of going Castle/TpPower combo..!!

Well that's it for now...πŸ€™πŸΌ
Very nice...!! have fun building it.
Any particular reason for the heavy shock oil in the middle?
 

Sludog

Well-known member
Messages
180
Reaction score
131
Location
LBI
Tekno RC's
EB410, MT410
Driving Style
Basher
So here goes, my first Tekno build ever..!! ( apology's for my bad photos πŸ˜‰ )

I've learnt plenty on the Tekno Forums so far, lets just hope it helps me with this build..

Though I'd do a layout shot first, because hey no one has ever done that before have they 🀣.....

View attachment 4459

Couldn't help myself but when I ordered the truck I decided to get some upgrades straight away.. So in no particular order here they are, emulsion shock caps, alloy lower caps, derlin bushing, wheel nuts, steel spur, wing mount ( just incase πŸ˜‰ ) and finally the holy grail shock tool and wheel nut tool..πŸ€™πŸΌπŸ˜
The alloy spring platforms and servo horn were out of stock when I put my order in, and still are 😩 so I'll get them as soon as they're back in stock..
( I'm trying my hardest not to just order loads of M2C parts 🀣🀣 because I really want to run this thing stock for now..!! )

View attachment 4460

First part of the build, build the wheel nut tool..!!
This thing has so many uses it's crazyπŸ€ͺ

View attachment 4461

I've read plenty of posts on here since I joined and I've learned a few tips'n tricks reading @TBuggy builds so I think I'll be good to go from here onwards.😁
Now onto the serious stuff..!!
Everything laid out and ready to go...
Center diff is the first part I'll be tackling, I'll use plenty of green slime on the o-rings and also on the outdrive shafts then I'm going to fill it with 500k,
I'm well impressed with how buttery smooth it is just assembled dry with no shims needed..πŸ‘πŸΌ
( not like a sloppy Arrma diff πŸ€£πŸ˜‰ ) you may notice in the background my upcycled shock stand made out of a redundant truggy wheel πŸ˜‰

View attachment 4462

So I've just learnt another use for the wheel nut tool..!! It's a diff stand πŸ€”....
While the center diff sits in its new stand I'll start to build the other diffs, again I'm shocked how buttery smooth the diffs are compared to others I've built before..😁

View attachment 4463

All the parts for the front/rear diffs laid out ready to assemble, not much to say other than these two went together just like the first.
Buttery smooth and no shims required..πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜

View attachment 4464

And here they are all built up with the oil weights written on the diffs, so...
a: I know which end of the truck they go in... 😁
b: I know the weights for future reference...πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4465

I'm going to Dremel the outdrives on the inner edges so as to bed them in and make everything wear better..😎 ( top tip from Mitch aka M2C Racing )

I've got a couple of bodies, but I'll decide later which one to use..πŸ‘πŸΌ as for electronics, wheel/tyres and battery I'm still undecided on what I'm going to use.
I already have some spare Arrma bits and bobs laying around, but I'm now thinking of going Castle/TpPower combo..!!

Well that's it for now...πŸ€™πŸΌ
Nice going. During my build I paid close attention the the diff and shock building video sections. Everything else on the kit is so easy and smooth just make sure you don't miss the locktite needed and don't over tighten the plastic parts. I noticed the shocks caps bags and thought I got ripped off when I ordered mine by not getting the o rings. Upon closer inspection I noticed the part number was different. Are those the correct shock caps for the MT410? The part number I have is TKR6003B.
 

BashingBrian

So here I am, I'm Tiny Rick..!!!
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
183
Reaction score
132
Location
UK
Tekno RC's
MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Lutz has an older video but Joe just put this one out about breaking in your driveline. Give it a quick watch before you start grinding your brand new out drives.

If you are bashing and not racing I don't think you would even be able to tell the difference other than your parts will wear out a touch faster.
That vid is pretty much what Mitch told me to do once before, I do understand I'm not a racer but thought I might aswel go the whole way..πŸ˜‰πŸ‘πŸΌ

Out of curiosity, why did you decide to use the Associated oils rather than whats included in the package?
It's what I'm used to, top tip.. never mix oils (brands) as the weights from one brand aren't necessarily the same as another..πŸ‘πŸΌ

Very nice...!! have fun building it.
Any particular reason for the heavy shock oil in the middle?
To stop the front tyres front ballooning under heavy acceleration..πŸ˜‰

I noticed the shocks caps bags and thought I got ripped off when I ordered mine by not getting the o rings. Upon closer inspection I noticed the part number was different. Are those the correct shock caps for the MT410? The part number I have is TKR6003B.
Yes the shock caps I've got are the latest versions and I was told they are compatible with the MT410, they are a multi function cap that can be run in any configuration I believe πŸ‘πŸΌ
 

Fman515

Member
Messages
21
Reaction score
13
So here goes, my first Tekno build ever..!! ( apology's for my bad photos πŸ˜‰ )

I've learnt plenty on the Tekno Forums so far, lets just hope it helps me with this build..

Though I'd do a layout shot first, because hey no one has ever done that before have they 🀣.....

View attachment 4459

Couldn't help myself but when I ordered the truck I decided to get some upgrades straight away.. So in no particular order here they are, emulsion shock caps, alloy lower caps, delrin bushing, wheel nuts, steel spur, wing mount ( just incase πŸ˜‰ ) and finally the holy grail shock tool and wheel nut tool..πŸ€™πŸΌπŸ˜
The alloy spring platforms and servo horn were out of stock when I put my order in, and still are 😩 so I'll get them as soon as they're back in stock..
( I'm trying my hardest not to just order loads of M2C parts 🀣🀣 because I really want to run this thing stock for now..!! )

View attachment 4460

First part of the build, build the wheel nut tool..!!
This thing has so many uses it's crazyπŸ€ͺ

View attachment 4461

I've read plenty of posts on here since I joined and I've learned a few tips'n tricks reading @TBuggy builds so I think I'll be good to go from here onwards.😁
Now onto the serious stuff..!!
Everything laid out and ready to go...
Center diff is the first part I'll be tackling, I'll use plenty of green slime on the o-rings and also on the outdrive shafts then I'm going to fill it with 500k,
I'm well impressed with how buttery smooth it is just assembled dry with no shims needed..πŸ‘πŸΌ
( not like a sloppy Arrma diff πŸ€£πŸ˜‰ ) you may notice in the background my upcycled shock stand made out of a redundant truggy wheel πŸ˜‰

View attachment 4462

So I've just learnt another use for the wheel nut tool..!! It's a diff stand πŸ€”....
While the center diff sits in its new stand I'll start to build the other diffs, again I'm shocked how buttery smooth the diffs are compared to others I've built before..😁

View attachment 4463

All the parts for the front/rear diffs laid out ready to assemble, not much to say other than these two went together just like the first.
Buttery smooth and no shims required..πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜

View attachment 4464

And here they are all built up with the oil weights written on the diffs, so...
a: I know which end of the truck they go in... 😁
b: I know the weights for future reference...πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4465

I'm going to Dremel the outdrives on the inner edges so as to bed them in and make everything wear better..😎 ( top tip from Mitch aka M2C Racing )

I've got a couple of bodies, but I'll decide later which one to use..πŸ‘πŸΌ as for electronics, wheel/tyres and battery I'm still undecided on what I'm going to use.
I already have some spare Arrma bits and bobs laying around, but I'm now thinking of going Castle/TpPower combo..!!

Well that's it for now...πŸ€™πŸΌ
Let me know how that diff oil setup feels. I’m at 100k front / 200k center / 50K rear
 

BashingBrian

So here I am, I'm Tiny Rick..!!!
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
183
Reaction score
132
Location
UK
Tekno RC's
MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Part 2 πŸ˜‰....

Onto the diff housings F/R, Just the front housing here.. ( forgot some of the pictures πŸ€ͺ )
I'm still really impressed with the fit and finish of this kit..πŸ€™πŸΌ
Front housing goes together just as the manual says, no mods..😁

IMG_6007.jpeg
IMG_6008.jpeg


I had read online from numerous different sources that the rear diff bearing can get punched into the diff case causing major damage to the pinion and crown, so I thought I would research what parts were needed to stop such an issue..
Below are the parts I used to convert the rear diff housing to be "bombproof" as they say, it consists of a shorter rear drive shaft, bearing with a flange and 2.45mm of spacers or shims.
( I need to file the ends flat on the dogbone, but that will come later πŸ‘πŸΌ )

IMG_6014.jpeg


Here is the standard bearing and dogbone on the left vs the upgrade parts on the right.πŸ‘πŸΌ

IMG_6015.jpeg


Some install pics of how/where the shims go..😁

IMG_6017.jpeg
IMG_6018.jpeg
IMG_6019.jpeg
IMG_6020.jpeg
IMG_6021.jpeg


And all finally completely built up...πŸ‘πŸΌ

IMG_6026.jpeg


Next onto assembling the rear end together...

IMG_6029.jpeg


Started on the driveshafts and when I assembled them into the hubs, they needed shims at the hex end as the slop was quite bad.. my first sad moment so far 😩😩
I had to use 2x 0.2mm shims on either side.
That's more shims than I used on my current Arrma's..πŸ€ͺ but it's not all bad though as the hubs are better quality overall..😁
Here are the shims used..πŸ‘πŸΌ

IMG_6040.jpeg


I found yet another use for the wheel nut tool..πŸ€™πŸΌπŸ˜ holding the axle hex whilst tightening the inner grub screw.. ( My bad, I forgot to clean the grub screws so I need to remove them and re-loctite them later.... Cheers @TBuggy for the headsup πŸ‘πŸΌ )

IMG_6039.jpeg


Quick and easy mod to the droop screws, the Tekno ones screw in from the top with just the sharp bolt bottom digging into the chassis so I decided to use some more Arrma parts.πŸ€ͺ
If you look at the picture below you'll see that the Arrma screw has a hex in both ends, so I've screwed them in from below the arms therefore the button sits on the chassis.
( I hope it works out, I'll find out later πŸ€” )

IMG_6030.jpeg


Jackpot..πŸŽ‰πŸ€ͺ another use for the wheel nut tool... it holds ball ends..!!
No more sore hands for me ever again..😁

IMG_6046.jpeg


Assembling turnbuckles has never been so easy..πŸ€ͺπŸ€™πŸΌ

IMG_6048.jpeg


Rear end finally complete, really nice fit finish and feel to the finished rear end..πŸ‘πŸΌ
Practically slop free.😁 I'll talk about the rear bumper in a minute..😩

IMG_6032.jpeg


Question time..?? πŸ€”
Below you can see the hub carrier spacing, just wondered what setting others had used..??

IMG_6042.jpeg

IMG_6044.jpeg


Last job of the day..
I know this truck was designed from the parts bin as they say, I think I'm correct in saying the rear bumper is from the SCT but in my opinion it just ruined the build.
I'm really disappointed with the design of the rear bumper and I'm sure they could have come up with something better..!! ( Rant over πŸ˜‰ )
The screws just pulled through it as I tightened it up enough to close up the diff housing, so the bumper has just gone to the RC junk pile before the truck has even turned a wheel..😩😩

IMG_6051.jpeg


Don't have any rear bumpers on any of my other trucks or buggy's so not a deal breaker just a shame that the part is pretty πŸ’©πŸ’© .....

I'll update this post with some part numbers later if requested..πŸ‘πŸΌ
That's it for now..
See you next time..πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜
 

FHE_nld

Well-known member
Messages
132
Reaction score
89
Location
The Netherlands
Tekno RC's
MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Part 2 πŸ˜‰....

Onto the diff housings F/R, Just the front housing here.. ( forgot some of the pictures πŸ€ͺ )
I'm still really impressed with the fit and finish of this kit..πŸ€™πŸΌ
Front housing goes together just as the manual says, no mods..😁

View attachment 4500 View attachment 4501

I had read online from numerous different sources that the rear diff bearing can get punched into the diff case causing major damage to the pinion and crown, so I thought I would research what parts were needed to stop such an issue..
Below are the parts I used to convert the rear diff housing to be "bombproof" as they say, it consists of a shorter rear drive shaft, bearing with a flange and 2.45mm of spacers or shims.
( I need to file the ends flat on the dogbone, but that will come later πŸ‘πŸΌ )

View attachment 4502

Here is the standard bearing and dogbone on the left vs the upgrade parts on the right.πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4503

Some install pics of how/where the shims go..😁

View attachment 4505 View attachment 4506 View attachment 4507 View attachment 4508 View attachment 4509

And all finally completely built up...πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4511

Next onto assembling the rear end together...

View attachment 4512

Started on the driveshafts and when I assembled them into the hubs, they needed shims at the hex end as the slop was quite bad.. my first sad moment so far 😩😩
I had to use 2x 0.2mm shims on either side.
That's more shims than I used on my current Arrma's..πŸ€ͺ but it's not all bad though as the hubs are better quality overall..😁
Here are the shims used..πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4524

I found yet another use for the wheel nut tool..πŸ€™πŸΌπŸ˜ holding the axle hex whilst tightening the inner grub screw.. ( My bad, I forgot to clean the grub screws so I need to remove them and re-loctite them later.... Cheers @TBuggy for the headsup πŸ‘πŸΌ )

View attachment 4515

Quick and easy mod to the droop screws, the Tekno ones screw in from the top with just the sharp bolt bottom digging into the chassis so I decided to use some more Arrma parts.πŸ€ͺ
If you look at the picture below you'll see that the Arrma screw has a hex in both ends, so I've screwed them in from below the arms therefore the button sits on the chassis.
( I hope it works out, I'll find out later πŸ€” )

View attachment 4513

Jackpot..πŸŽ‰πŸ€ͺ another use for the wheel nut tool... it holds ball ends..!!
No more sore hands for me ever again..😁

View attachment 4520

Assembling turnbuckles has never been so easy..πŸ€ͺπŸ€™πŸΌ

View attachment 4521

Rear end finally complete, really nice fit finish and feel to the finished rear end..πŸ‘πŸΌ
Practically slop free.😁 I'll talk about the rear bumper in a minute..😩

View attachment 4514

Question time..?? πŸ€”
Below you can see the hub carrier spacing, just wondered what setting others had used..??

View attachment 4518
View attachment 4519

Last job of the day..
I know this truck was designed from the parts bin as they say, I think I'm correct in saying the rear bumper is from the SCT but in my opinion it just ruined the build.
I'm really disappointed with the design of the rear bumper and I'm sure they could have come up with something better..!! ( Rant over πŸ˜‰ )
The screws just pulled through it as I tightened it up enough to close up the diff housing, so the bumper has just gone to the RC junk pile before the truck has even turned a wheel..😩😩

View attachment 4523

Don't have any rear bumpers on any of my other trucks or buggy's so not a deal breaker just a shame that the part is pretty πŸ’©πŸ’© .....

I'll update this post with some part numbers later if requested..πŸ‘πŸΌ
That's it for now..
See you next time..πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜
Nice overview of your work, after reading your story and others about the shocktool I have ordered one. πŸ‘
 

TBuggy

Well-known member
TF Excellence Award
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
1,130
Reaction score
803
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET410, SCT410
Looking good!

I never understood why Tekno skimps on that droop screw for the MT410. All of their other 1/8 models have the proper droop screws that go in from the bottom and can be adjusted from the top.
Screen Shot 2020-04-23 at 11.12.15 AM.png
 

BashingBrian

So here I am, I'm Tiny Rick..!!!
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
183
Reaction score
132
Location
UK
Tekno RC's
MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Wow, that's really strange that they don't add those droop screws to the MT410 but do with all the others..πŸ€”
 

Ifti

Premium Member
Supporting Member
Messages
239
Reaction score
131
Location
UK
Quick and easy mod to the droop screws, the Tekno ones screw in from the top with just the sharp bolt bottom digging into the chassis so I decided to use some more Arrma parts.πŸ€ͺ
If you look at the picture below you'll see that the Arrma screw has a hex in both ends, so I've screwed them in from below the arms therefore the button sits on the chassis.
( I hope it works out, I'll find out later πŸ€” )

View attachment 4513

Jackpot..πŸŽ‰πŸ€ͺ another use for the wheel nut tool... it holds ball ends..!!
No more sore hands for me ever again..😁

View attachment 4520

Assembling turnbuckles has never been so easy..πŸ€ͺπŸ€™πŸΌ

View attachment 4521
I like those Arrma screws - haven't come across that before! Great idea though!

Awesome top on the wheel wrench and ball ends - never knew that! Will keep it in mind for my build!
 

Brandon

Well-known member
Messages
45
Reaction score
30
Location
Anchorage AK
Tekno RC's
MT410
Driving Style
Basher
So here goes, my first Tekno build ever..!! ( apology's for my bad photos πŸ˜‰ )

I've learnt plenty on the Tekno Forums so far, lets just hope it helps me with this build..

Though I'd do a layout shot first, because hey no one has ever done that before have they 🀣.....

View attachment 4459

Couldn't help myself but when I ordered the truck I decided to get some upgrades straight away.. So in no particular order here they are, emulsion shock caps, alloy lower caps, delrin bushing, wheel nuts, steel spur, wing mount ( just incase πŸ˜‰ ) and finally the holy grail shock tool and wheel nut tool..πŸ€™πŸΌπŸ˜
The alloy spring platforms and servo horn were out of stock when I put my order in, and still are 😩 so I'll get them as soon as they're back in stock..
( I'm trying my hardest not to just order loads of M2C parts 🀣🀣 because I really want to run this thing stock for now..!! )

View attachment 4460

First part of the build, build the wheel nut tool..!!
This thing has so many uses it's crazyπŸ€ͺ

View attachment 4461

I've read plenty of posts on here since I joined and I've learned a few tips'n tricks reading @TBuggy builds so I think I'll be good to go from here onwards.😁
Now onto the serious stuff..!!
Everything laid out and ready to go...
Center diff is the first part I'll be tackling, I'll use plenty of green slime on the o-rings and also on the outdrive shafts then I'm going to fill it with 500k,
I'm well impressed with how buttery smooth it is just assembled dry with no shims needed..πŸ‘πŸΌ
( not like a sloppy Arrma diff πŸ€£πŸ˜‰ ) you may notice in the background my upcycled shock stand made out of a redundant truggy wheel πŸ˜‰

View attachment 4462

So I've just learnt another use for the wheel nut tool..!! It's a diff stand πŸ€”....
While the center diff sits in its new stand I'll start to build the other diffs, again I'm shocked how buttery smooth the diffs are compared to others I've built before..😁

View attachment 4463

All the parts for the front/rear diffs laid out ready to assemble, not much to say other than these two went together just like the first.
Buttery smooth and no shims required..πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜

View attachment 4464

And here they are all built up with the oil weights written on the diffs, so...
a: I know which end of the truck they go in... 😁
b: I know the weights for future reference...πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4465

I'm going to Dremel the outdrives on the inner edges so as to bed them in and make everything wear better..😎 ( top tip from Mitch aka M2C Racing )

I've got a couple of bodies, but I'll decide later which one to use..πŸ‘πŸΌ as for electronics, wheel/tyres and battery I'm still undecided on what I'm going to use.
I already have some spare Arrma bits and bobs laying around, but I'm now thinking of going Castle/TpPower combo..!!

Well that's it for now...πŸ€™πŸΌ
Go baby go!
 

BashingBrian

So here I am, I'm Tiny Rick..!!!
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Next up...

Time for the front end.
Again everything fits together so nicely, fit and finish are superb..πŸ‘πŸΌ

IMG_6059.jpeg
IMG_6063.jpeg


I found there was some slop on the front arms, front to back play..😩 It was easily sorted with some 0.3mm shims..!!
There is nowhere near as much slop on this car vs my Arrma's but it is still there in some places..😩

IMG_6060.jpeg


Shims 4x10x0.3mm are what I used, only one per side..πŸ‘πŸΌ slop now totally gone.

IMG_6061.jpeg


Hex hubs again needed shims left was 0.3mm, right 0.4mm ( 8x12mm )
Also this time I remembered to clean off the factory oil from the grub screws before adding loctite..😁 ( thanks again @TBuggy for the heads up πŸ‘πŸΌ )

IMG_6065.jpeg
IMG_6067.jpeg


Completed front c hub with drive shafts and hex hubs, all went together perfectly..πŸ‘πŸΌ

IMG_6069.jpeg


Finally the completed front/rear suspensions ready to be mounted on chassis..
Everything feels so light compared to my Arrma's..πŸ˜‰

IMG_6073.jpeg


Onto the servo saver, this gave me a bit of head scratching..πŸ€”
I'll explain more a bit further down the page..!!

IMG_6076.jpeg


So here is the servo saver built up as per the instructions, spring tightened up fully then backed off 3 complete turns..πŸ€” to me though it seems extremely tight..!!

I also fitted that O-ring on the bottom, but it doesn't do anything that I can tell..πŸ€ͺ
My O-ring isn't tight, in fact it's so loose as you can see in the pic it just falls off the bottom of the servo saver..😩 it even states in the instructions to lube if it's a tight fit..🀣

Can someone please explain what that O-ring is supposed to do..??

IMG_6084.jpeg
IMG_6092.jpeg


Another mod I always do is to use these small homemade conical spacers, they go in the chassis and stop bumpers and skid plates from having the screws pull through them..πŸ€™πŸΌ
( anyone that has used T-bone bumpers knows what I'm talking about..πŸ˜‰ )

As you can see below, they are just made out of stainless steel M4 bolts that you just drill the heads off with a 4mm drill..πŸ‘πŸΌ
These are super cheap to make and will make your bumpers/skids last so much longer..πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜

IMG_6089.jpeg
IMG_6091.jpeg


Onto the diff holder / motor mount, I'm a bit torn on this one as one part of me thinks it's a really good motor mount but the diff holder seems a bit half assed to me..πŸ€”
Personally though I think a v4 Arrma diff holder is a better design..πŸ˜‰
In saying that though, there is no side to side play whatsoever with the Tekno one..!!
I'll just have to see how it goes..πŸ‘πŸΌ I'm quite happy to be proved wrong..

Is the 7075 option part worth the extra money..?? please let me know..

IMG_6096.jpeg


As you can see below here is the flanged bearing and shortened drive shaft for the "bombproof diff case mod" πŸ˜‰.. lets just see how that's goes in the future..πŸ‘πŸΌ

IMG_6103.jpeg


All bolted up and ready for the next stage.. No issues fitting it all together, I noticed it is quite flexible in its current state..πŸ€” is this good or bad I'm truly not sure quite yet, only time will tell..πŸ˜‰

IMG_6173.jpeg


I really want to run this thing box stock..!! fingers crossed I can stay away from M2C..πŸ˜‰πŸ€£πŸ€£

Body has been chosen and badly painted in a rush..
Still undecided about electronics/battery power..πŸ€ͺ but have just ordered a new servo..!!

Till next time...πŸ€™πŸΌ
 
Last edited:

TBuggy

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Flex is good for control when conditions are rough. But if you are into doing flips and such then you may want to sacrifice better handling for durability by adding stiffer braces.

That o-ring needs to be seated inside the groove of that collar. It keeps the collar put so it doesn't back off while running.

You will need to take the steering assembly back off to fix that. Make sure to add some grease to the o-ring so you can adjust it without tearing it.

It's the same situation as the collars on the shocks.
 

Sludog

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Flex is good for control when conditions are rough. But if you are into doing flips and such then you may want to sacrifice better handling for durability by adding stiffer braces.

That o-ring needs to be seated inside the groove of that collar. It keeps the collar put so it doesn't back off while running.

You will need to take the steering assembly back off to fix that. Make sure to add some grease to the o-ring so you can adjust it without tearing it.

It's the same situation as the collars on the shocks.
Good catch. I got some sore hands from putting that nut on with the spring there.
 

Ifti

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That o-ring needs to be seated inside the groove of that collar. It keeps the collar put so it doesn't back off while running.

You will need to take the steering assembly back off to fix that. Make sure to add some grease to the o-ring so you can adjust it without tearing it.
Bearing in mind the O-Ring is there to stop the collar from backing off etc, wouldn't putting grease on the o-ring make it more prone to slipping?
I know its mentioned in the manual too, but was just wondering whether its counter productive in the long run?
 

Ifti

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Next up...

Time for the front end.
Again everything fits together so nicely, fit and finish are superb..πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4562 View attachment 4565

I found there was some slop on the front arms, front to back play..😩 It was easily sorted with some 0.3mm shims..!!
There is nowhere near as much slop on this car vs my Arrma's but it is still there in some places..😩

View attachment 4563

Shims 4x10x0.3mm are what I used, only one per side..πŸ‘πŸΌ slop now totally gone.

View attachment 4564

Hex hubs again needed shims left was 0.3mm, right 0.4mm ( 8x12mm )
Also this time I remembered to clean off the factory oil from the grub screws before adding loctite..😁 ( thanks again @TBuggy for the heads up πŸ‘πŸΌ )

View attachment 4566 View attachment 4567

Completed front c hub with drive shafts and hex hubs, all went together perfectly..πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4568

Finally the completed front/rear suspensions ready to be mounted on chassis..
Everything feels so light compared to my Arrma's..πŸ˜‰

View attachment 4570

Onto the servo saver, this gave me a bit of head scratching..πŸ€”
I'll explain more a bit further down the page..!!

View attachment 4571

So here is the servo saver built up as per the instructions, spring tightened up fully then backed off 3 complete turns..πŸ€” to me though it seems extremely tight..!!

I also fitted that O-ring on the bottom, but it doesn't do anything that I can tell..πŸ€ͺ
My O-ring isn't tight, in fact it's so loose as you can see in the pic it just falls off the bottom of the servo saver..😩 it even states in the instructions to lube if it's a tight fit..🀣

Can someone please explain what that O-ring is supposed to do..??

View attachment 4574 View attachment 4579

Another mod I always do is to use these small homemade conical spacers, they go in the chassis and stop bumpers and skid plates from having the screws pull through them..πŸ€™πŸΌ
( anyone that has used T-bone bumpers knows what I'm talking about..πŸ˜‰ )

As you can see below, they are just made out of stainless steel M4 bolts that you just drill the heads off with a 4mm drill..πŸ‘πŸΌ
These are super cheap to make and will make your bumpers/skids last so much longer..πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ˜

View attachment 4577 View attachment 4578

Onto the diff holder / motor mount, I'm a bit torn on this one as one part of me thinks it's a really good motor mount but the diff holder seems a bit half assed to me..πŸ€”
Personally though I think a v4 Arrma diff holder is a better design..πŸ˜‰
In saying that though, there is no side to side play whatsoever with the Tekno one..!!
I'll just have to see how it goes..πŸ‘πŸΌ I'm quite happy to be proved wrong..

Is the 7075 option part worth the extra money..?? please let me know..

View attachment 4580

As you can see below here is the flanged bearing and shortened drive shaft for the "bombproof diff case mod" πŸ˜‰.. lets just see how that's goes in the future..πŸ‘πŸΌ

View attachment 4584

All bolted up and ready for the next stage.. No issues fitting it all together, I noticed it is quite flexible in its current state..πŸ€” is this good or bad I'm truly not sure quite yet, only time will tell..πŸ˜‰

View attachment 4586

I really want to run this thing box stock..!! fingers crossed I can stay away from M2C..πŸ˜‰πŸ€£πŸ€£

Body has been chosen and badly painted in a rush..
Still undecided about electronics/battery power..πŸ€ͺ but have just ordered a new servo..!!

Till next time...πŸ€™πŸΌ
Lovely write up. Enjoyed reading through it!!
Keep it coming!!!
 

Sludog

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Bearing in mind the O-Ring is there to stop the collar from backing off etc, wouldn't putting grease on the o-ring make it more prone to slipping?
I know its mentioned in the manual too, but was just wondering whether its counter productive in the long run?
The grease helps when spinning the nut smoother when threading the nut to tighten the spring. It is pretty hard to spin this but with the spring pressure.
 

TBuggy

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Bearing in mind the O-Ring is there to stop the collar from backing off etc, wouldn't putting grease on the o-ring make it more prone to slipping?
I know its mentioned in the manual too, but was just wondering whether its counter productive in the long run?
When you have it in place where it goes, you will understand the need for the grease. I have installed them without grease and the threads tear the o-rings up in the process. It is plenty tight to hold things in place when grease is appplied.
 
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