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48 2.0 TBuggy's EB48 2.0

TBuggy

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Well I was able to get my hands on one of these recently and figured I would share my build experiences, tips and part differences.

This will be a very picture heavy thread for your viewing pleasures.

It starts with a box in a box!
IMG_0709.JPG


Whats inside you ask!?
IMG_0711.JPG


More coming soon!
 
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Ifti

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Subscribed to thread!!
Have mine ordered, just waiting on stock!

I'm assuming the body has no holes etc so a reamer will be required?
Does the body have the plastic protective covering on both sides, or just the outer side? I ask as Ive seen some bodies have it on the inside as well, making it easy to cut away and create designs rather then having to mask everything up....

Also, what are your ideas on electronics for your buggy?
 

Matthew_Armeni

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Subscribed to thread!!
Have mine ordered, just waiting on stock!

I'm assuming the body has no holes etc so a reamer will be required?
Does the body have the plastic protective covering on both sides, or just the outer side? I ask as Ive seen some bodies have it on the inside as well, making it easy to cut away and create designs rather then having to mask everything up....

Also, what are your ideas on electronics for your buggy?
The body comes uncut so you will need lexan scissors and a body reamer. The protective film is just on the outside of the body.
 

TBuggy

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Subscribed to thread!!
Have mine ordered, just waiting on stock!

I'm assuming the body has no holes etc so a reamer will be required?
Does the body have the plastic protective covering on both sides, or just the outer side? I ask as Ive seen some bodies have it on the inside as well, making it easy to cut away and create designs rather then having to mask everything up....

Also, what are your ideas on electronics for your buggy?
I will be running the Hobbywing XR8 plus with a Tekin 1900kv motor. Will probably re-use the servo I have for now, which is an old protek 150s.
 

TBuggy

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Starting this off like any other Tekno kit...bag "A" and "B" have the contents to build the diffs.

Bags needed for steps A and B
IMG_0720.JPG


Bags contents;
IMG_0725.JPG


And since this is such a drastic change from the previous generations, I have some part comparison pics. You can easily see that Tekno bulked up the diffs quite a bit!

.3/.4 diff on left and 2.0 diff on right;
IMG_0726.JPG


IMG_0727.JPG


IMG_0729.JPG


The sun and planetary gears have also been enlarged to fit the new diffs.
.3/.4 on left and 2.0 on right;
IMG_0730.JPG


The spur gears are the same size but are not compatible due to the diff case size change/hole pattern. It also appears to be made out of a slightly different plastic.
IMG_0733.JPG


2.0 on left and .3/,4 on the right;
IMG_0734.JPG


Major part changes on just the first two steps of the build! This is going to be exciting! Even thought the changes in size, the diffs when put together are the same length and use the same bearings, so I am fairly positive they can be used in the previous generations (at least for the center diff) if someone wanted to upgrade to these diffs.

Tune in for more shortly!
 
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TBuggy

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Forgot to show the difference between the previous generations to the new 2.0 ring gears for the front and rear diffs. For all of those wondering...these will not fit in the older versions due to the diameter increase in the 2.0 diffs.

.3/.4 on left and 2.0 on the right.
IMG_0766.jpg
 

TBuggy

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The diffs ultimately went together exactly like any other Tekno diff does. Since the center, front and rear diffs essentially go together the same, I figure there is no need to go into detail on all 3 diffs.

This is my method;

I start by greasing up the groove in the outdrive shaft and also on both the diff and spur/ring gears.
IMG_0736.JPG


Then I start building a "parfait" per say. Grease, o-ring, grease, metal washer.
IMG_0737.JPG

IMG_0739.JPG

IMG_0740.JPG


Once I am at this point I shove the greased outdrive into the spur/ring gear and diff cases (not forgetting to install the bearings first! ;) With the grease the pushes through I wipe off and dab it on a gasket that will be used (no need to waste it).

IMG_0741.JPG

IMG_0747.JPG


Now I install the pins that hold the outdrives in place. The diff and ring gears are super simple. The diff cases are I guess a touch easier than the old diffs due to being bigger otherwise its the same technique. Line up the hole in the outdrive with the grove in the diff case and then you have plenty of room using some long nose needle nose pliers to reach down and push the pin into place.
IMG_0742.JPG

IMG_0745.JPG


Now I drop one of the sun gears into the diff case and fill with oil to just cover the gear.
IMG_0752.JPG


While that is sitting I take my blade and spin it around in both sides of each planetary gear. This is to "de-bur" the gears and makes sure that they spin as free as possible.
IMG_0748.JPG

IMG_0751.JPG


Then assemble the cross pins making sure that when I drop the cross pins and planetary gears they are still seated correctly. Then I fill with oil again this time just above the top of the planetary gears. I then slowly rotate the gears so that any bubbles under them are freed up and can escape.
IMG_0756.JPG


I drop in the second sun gear and top off with oil as needed. Then the diff sits while I work on the others, giving time for as many air bubbles to escape as possible.
IMG_0757.JPG


Once I get them all to the above step, I wipe down the first diff I started with my thumb to make sure that there is the perfect amount of diff oil.
IMG_0758.JPG

IMG_0759.JPG


I continue on with the first diff to allow the other to rest as long as possible. Using that extra grease I had I spread it on both sides of the gasket before putting it in place.
IMG_0760.JPG


Before placing the gear into the diff case I line up the pins with the holes (its just an easy point of reference to use) and then on the diff case rotate the outdrive so that the slot for the pin is line up in the same manor. If you do this and even get it close you can usually just wiggle it in place.
IMG_0761.JPG


I like to use my little hook tool for lining up the holes, but many things will work in its place.
IMG_0762.JPG


Then I tighten all the screws down alternating so that the gear and the case seat evenly.
IMG_0763.JPG


Then repeat the final step with the rest of the diffs.
IMG_0768.JPG
 

TBuggy

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On to the bulk heads. These went together very similar to the previous generations. There were some obvious updates that look to be some great improvements!

The bags;
IMG_0769.JPG


The aluminum parts for all the steps are in a separate bag and you will need to look for the parts designated for the steps in there.

Contents of bulkhead bags;

Front
IMG_0770.JPG


Rear
IMG_0783.JPG


These go together just like the old bulkheads. I tried to use a shim but the fitment was so nice I couldn't even get one in.

Always remember to clean residue oils from the factory off of the screw before applying thread lock. This one that attaches to the diff couplers are extremely important, cause you don't want these coming loose during a run.
IMG_0776.JPG



When installing the tower leave these screw out until you mount the wing mount.
IMG_0784.JPG



I suggest inserting these nuts into the slots of the tower prior to screwing the wing mount on and you won't need a nut driver or wrench to hold the nut still while you tighten the screws.
IMG_0790.JPG


Once I was happy with the fitment of the diffs in the bulkheads I applied some grease from the the "trap door" on the bottom.
IMG_0791.JPG


I have been using white lithium grease for these gears.
IMG_0792.JPG



The shock mounts have been updated and now have a very convenient spot for a wrench to hold while you tighten them down. Nice touch Tekno!
IMG_0789.JPG


Completed bulkheads

Rear
IMG_0796.JPG


Front
IMG_0797.JPG
 
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TBuggy

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The rear arms and sway bar step was a nice update! The arms are so free and yet the fitment is so tight its amazing! There is no need for reaming arms, sanding or anything, just put the parts together and everything is perfect right out the gate!

Parts bag
IMG_0798.JPG



Bag contents
IMG_0799.JPG



New suspension blocks are tiny!
IMG_0800.JPG



They new sway bar mount is so free and easy....no more adjusting silly grub screws!
IMG_0802.JPG


IMG_0808.JPG


Just make sure when you do install the grub screws on the little plastic donuts on either side of the swayer mount that you do like I have in the picture. Make sure you are installing the grub screw on the side that has the slot, this is so when you tighten the grub screw the swaybar has something to push against.
IMG_0806.JPG



Not sure if everyone is familiar with all that the Tekno pliers can do. But here is another moment when they make life sooooo much easier!
IMG_0809.JPG


Now you say..."but is the ball out" section on the pliers. It is but for these little guys its the "ball in" as long as you press down just enough to pop the link on and not all the way over the ball. (Realized afterwards that I have the plies facing so you cannot see the writing in the pics...my bad!).
IMG_0811.JPG


And for the ends that mount to the sway bar you want to use the "ball in" section.
IMG_0812.JPG


Press down and there you have it!
IMG_0814.JPG


When installing the ball end on the sway bars make sure to have them in the same location on either side, meaning if you have a little bit of the bar sticking out like in the picture below make sure the same amount is sticking out on the opposite side. This will make sure that the sway bar has the same effect on both sides of the vehicle.
IMG_0819.JPG


IMG_0818.JPG


Now the arms mount up slightly different and I think that is what makes such a tremendous difference in how free the arms can move without any reaming or anything.

IMO all due to these.
IMG_0816.JPG


They fit super snug into the arms...almost too snug but if you line them up straight they will slide in.
IMG_0815.JPG


This step all complete.
IMG_0817.JPG


IMG_0821.JPG
 

TBuggy

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Rear hubs and links installed.
These go together just like other generations. There are a few design changes that increase the tuning options available.

Parts bag;
IMG_0822.JPG


Parts all laid out;
IMG_0825.JPG


The hub ends of the driveshafts are way beefier than the older ones.
IMG_0826.JPG


Rear hubs were updated quite a bit. New bearings and geometry.
IMG_0828.JPG


The outer bearing is now flanged;
IMG_0829.JPG


They also have a spacer in between the bearings now, instead of relying on a simple groove inside the hub. Insert the outer bearing first then the spacer and then the inner bearing.
IMG_0831.JPG


IMG_0832.JPG


IMG_0833.JPG


IMG_0828.JPG


Now when installing the drive shafts make sure to clean off the grub screw really well before applying the lock tight. Also this is another time where the Tekno shock pliers shine!
IMG_0776.JPG


They are perfect for holding the hubs while tightening the grub screws.
IMG_0835.JPG



Rear end all done. There are now pills for then rear hubs to help adjust "active toe"
IMG_0838.JPG


IMG_0837.JPG
 

Ifti

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Fantastic write up - am finding this really useful while I wait for mine to be delivered!!
 

Matthew_Armeni

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We had to use a plastic spacer to run the CV driveshafts because the bearings for the universal driveshaft and the CV have the same outer diameter. When using unis we omit the plastic spacer.
 

TBuggy

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Front end was a dream to put together and the updates all add up to the most freed up suspension without any extra steps beyond assembling that I have built! Fitment of the parts is excellent!

Front arms bag;
IMG_0839.JPG



Contents of bag;
IMG_0840.JPG



Pretty much the same steps as the rear in this part,
IMG_0841.JPG


IMG_0842.JPG



On to the front caster blocks and hubs;
IMG_0845.JPG


Contents of bags;
IMG_0846.JPG


Some nice beefy aluminum caster blocks!
IMG_0848.JPG


IMG_0849.JPG


The front hubs use the same flanged bearings as the rear.
IMG_0851.JPG


IMG_0854.JPG



The aluminum caster blocks use bearings, similar to the .4.
IMG_0855.JPG


Assembled front caster blocks/hubs and drive shafts;
IMG_0860.JPG


Another update is the hinge pins or lack of for the caster blocks. There are now these little pins that get held in place with a set screw. They are pretty stout and look like they will do the job nicely!
IMG_0861.JPG


Make sure to line up the flat part with the set screw when installing. When its in place you can verify it is facing the correct way by looking at the corresponding flat spot on the head of the pin.
IMG_0862.JPG


Thanks for watching! More to come!
 

TBuggy

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Onto the steering assembly. Not much has changed here. It looks to be very similar to the .4 geometry, although the ackerman plate does appear to be slightly different in size and they mention that it is reversible.

Parts bag;
IMG_0870.JPG



Contents of bag;
IMG_0871.JPG



Steering assembly completed.
IMG_0873.JPG


IMG_0874.JPG



top plate and steering mounting components parts bag;
IMG_0876.JPG


Contents of bag;
IMG_0877.JPG


All assembled and again not much has changed here. The top plate is slightly different. The steering mounts up the same as previous generations.

The bolts that mount the steering linkage up to the spindles is not the same one as the black lower shock mount screws. No more holding onto a nut while trying to get the parts together.
IMG_0878.JPG


All assembled.
IMG_0879.JPG


One thing I noticed is how the manual tells you to install the steering posts to the steering assembly rather than mount them to the chassis first. I don't recommend doing it in that order unless you keep the screws loose so you can make sure the post fit correctly into the slots of the chassis. I personally think its easier and less of a pain in the a$$ to just mount the posts to the chassis first.
 

TBuggy

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Almost there now. Time to install everything onto the chassis!


Parts bags;
IMG_0880.JPG


Contents of bags;
IMG_0881.JPG



When installing the front end you will have to loosen the screw for the bumper before hand since it locks into place on the chassis.
IMG_0882.JPG


IMG_0883.JPG



Rear end just needs the new rear brace mounted first and then can go on the chassis.
IMG_0885.JPG



Rear end installed;
IMG_0889.JPG


IMG_0891.JPG


Almost there!
IMG_0886.JPG
 

TBuggy

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Threw in some electronics to get this thing moving. I know I skipped the shock section and will get that posted up shortly. But assembly is not any different than the last generation shocks.
IMG_0967.JPG


Swapped electronics from other buggy for now.
IMG_0970.JPG


Was able to get the switch in a similar location as the .3 I was running. (y)
IMG_0974.JPG
 

Sludog

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Well I was able to get my hands on one of these recently and figured I would share my build experiences, tips and part differences.

This will be a very picture heavy thread for your viewing pleasures.

It starts with a box in a box!
View attachment 4031

Whats inside you ask!?
View attachment 4005

More coming soon!
You have found the unicorn. 🦄 Pretty hard to find 2.0 in stock. I've been searching. Gave up and got a MT410
 

smirkracing

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Tekno RC's
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Can you share whether changing the diffs is as easy as they say it is? One of the big features I am looking forward to on this vehicle is quick-change diffs...
 

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