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BUILD/REVIEW SCT410.3

Billl DeLong

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Tekno RC's
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  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
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After 19 logged race days with this chassis, I started running into electrical problems where the wiring to the 5mm bullets on the battery posts would become un-soldered during a race. The excess heat would cause the in-line connects to melt the plastic of the battery case making it unsafe to continue using the same battery:




The cost to replace the battery was going to be around $160+ after shipping so I decided to go a different route and have installed the following electronics for just under $120 shipped total:


Although I probably could've fixed the issue by replacing the worn 5mm bullets with a fresh set, I really didn't like the idea of pushing too much current through on 2S and decided that 3S would be more efficient to help reduce temps and more importantly, extend my run times. I have since ordered the following product which I am told should extend the life of my bullets so they won't tarnish which will prevent the excessive resistance like what was happening to me:


It's worth noting that the 2S pack before weighs only 324g and the 3S pack that I just bought weighs 360g where the extra 36g has made a noticeable improvement in the handling where the truck is more planted and can accelerate faster on corner exit, I was able to drop 0.3 sec off my fast lap time (40 sec hot lap) after swapping out these electronics, and the top speed/acceleration are about the same as before.

Motor Temps:
[email protected] = 160°F after 10 min
[email protected] = 135°F after 10 min

It really is a no-brainer that I made the right decision to switch over to 3S :)

I've updated my current setup on the OP as well:

 
Last edited:

Billl DeLong

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Tekno RC's
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  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
So I just used a Q-tip to wipe the corrosion from the terminal on the top in the following pic, this pack is about a year old in my 401R-T, haven't had any issue with terminals getting un-soldered yet, but definitely needed to be cleaned for sure!


 

tezip

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Hi Bill,
I am about to start building my sct shocks, I was curious if you drilled piston holes bigger? Or are they the stock ones from the bag?
 

Will

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Bill,
Thank you so much for this thread. The SCT is my second Tekno build and your assistance is unquantifiable. The tip about the ball ends saved me an hour and a trip for carpal tunnel surgery.

I am building mine to your specs instead of the standard set up.

Thanks again!

Will
 

Matthew_Armeni

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Hey Bill, just saw your post about going to 3s. Another option is going to 4s with Tekin's 1900kv Pro4 motor. I've run that with Protek's 4s battery, it's the same as their 2s pack, just wired 4s1p instead of 2s2p. So it's exactly the same size and weight.
 

Billl DeLong

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
Hi Bill,
I am about to start building my sct shocks, I was curious if you drilled piston holes bigger? Or are they the stock ones from the bag?

I bought these "blanks" here listed on the OP under "Recommended Upgrades":
TKR6163 – Shock Piston Blanks

It's a good idea to have drill bits in the 1.0-3.0mm range with 0.1mm steps between the bits ;)


Hey Bill, just saw your post about going to 3s. Another option is going to 4s with Tekin's 1900kv Pro4 motor. I've run that with Protek's 4s battery, it's the same as their 2s pack, just wired 4s1p instead of 2s2p. So it's exactly the same size and weight.

That's awesome, thanks for sharing!

So far I am VERY happy with the extra weight of the 3S pack, roughly 36g of added weight which would help me break all of my personal records for the current layout (Hot Lap, Hot Main, Hot Qual and Hot Consistency), I would finally start clocking some 99% runs with the truck now and I attribute this to the added weight :)

https://trc.liverc.com/results/?p=view_race_result&id=2529814

99_Club.JPG
 
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Billl DeLong

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Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
So I was chatting with a local at the track last night who recently swapped out his [email protected] back to [email protected] and he noticed that the throttle response wasn't nearly as smooth, his consistency was affected and he plans to go back to 3S just because of that aspect alone.

There is also chatter with the 1/8 eBuggy drivers that they are preferring [email protected] instead of [email protected] to get smoother throttle as well, they have to gear up a pinch to compensate for top speed but lower KV makes a big difference to settle things down and improve handling.

When the time comes for me to replace the 3S pack, I may make the switch to [email protected] next!
 

Billl DeLong

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  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
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Racer
So my son recently got back into RC racing with me on Wed nights, and Thornhill alternates between dirt and turf tracks each week. This past week he ran turf for the first time with a set of (discontinued) Pin Points, and the truck was having major traction roll issues. I know there are tons of setup changes that I can do to optimize performance for turf, but my goal is to make the least amount of work while preserving the dirt setup so here we go.

The ride height for dirt is 25mm which is about the lowest I can get the truck to sit with the stock shocks!

I took a wild guess and decided to try the 1/8 Exceed Mad Drift shocks here:
https://www.nitrorcx.com/mad-cp0154.html

They turned out to be a direct fit and are actually a very high quality shock with almost identical cartridge system that TEKNO uses as well as a threaded piston nut too. They are very smooth and the spring height is perfect for the rear shocks, only thing I added were some shock cushions from Team Thornhill and now the ride height is reduced to 18mm on the rear, I placed the TEKNO shock next to it for reference to see how much shorter the Mad Drift shocks are:



I used the same shock package on the front, but I had to swap over to the TEKNO TKR6047 (65mm) springs which gave me a ride height of 17mm, so I actually had to add a little pre-load to get the front to match the rear, we will be testing this setup next Wed night and hopefully that's all we need to do to keep the truck from traction rolling on high speed corners... fingers crossed!

 

Billl DeLong

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Tekno RC's
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  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
Spent some time on my CNC today milling custom mud guards with 1mm thick carbon for the truck, pretty happy with the results, no tire rub at full droop too :)

 

Matthew_Armeni

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You should try using the LF SC springs, they're a lot shorter and allow appropriate ride heights and stiffer rates. The fronts are 57mm long, pn's 6103-6107 and the rears are 70mm, pn's 6113-6117.
 

Billl DeLong

Well-known member
TF Excellence Award
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
776
Reaction score
639
Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
You should try using the LF SC springs, they're a lot shorter and allow appropriate ride heights and stiffer rates. The fronts are 57mm long, pn's 6103-6107 and the rears are 70mm, pn's 6113-6117.

Sounds perfect for turf, I will add these to my next order when the 2.0 truggy becomes available, Thanks!
 

Matthew_Armeni

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Sounds perfect for turf, I will add these to my next order when the 2.0 truggy becomes available, Thanks!
No problem! I actually use them on all track surfaces. Getting the truck using stiffer spring sbut having a lower ride height is a big improvement.
 
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