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BUILD/REVIEW EB48 2.0

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Bill where did you get the anodized lock nuts for your buggy?
 
Bill where did you get the anodized lock nuts for your buggy?

Dialed Hobbies:

They have several colors to choose from:
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I had a great time this past weekend at Thornhill Racing Circuit for "The Dirt Lonestar Challenge" with a total of 388 entries which set a new attendance record for the track!

I ran the same eBuggy in both Open and 40+ divisions with 45/39 entries in each division respectively. I would finish 16th overall in Open and 10th overall in 40+

The high point of the event for me was winning the B Main in 40+ to earn a bump spot into the A Main. I was far from the fastest driver in the B group, but it was consistency that was key for me!
I did some experimenting with using my tire warmers to "bake" in some sauce into my AKA SSLW tires and that really seemed to make a noticeable improvement with traction.

I'm so used to having a watered track surface, it was a completely different style of driving surface which reminded me a lot of what I experienced at the RC RIOT race in KC last Fall.

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*** IMPORTANT UPDATE ****

I am no longer maintaining this thread, I will be selling this car and have chosen to move over to the following platform:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3855991-BUILD-REVIEW-HB-Racing-E8T-evo3


This will be my final update on the buggy as I do my last rebuild today.

The last time I replaced the pins was about 4 months ago ( 16 race days) and I'm very pleased with the wear on the 6MIK pins:

51081435391_dcec036387_c.jpg


Notice that one of the pins snapped when I was replacing it which tells me these are exceptionally hardened:

https://dialedhobbies.com/accessori.../6mik-dogbone-shaft-pins-3-x-11-5mm-11-detail


These are all original out drives which have seen a total of 35 race days per my race log and are just now starting to show signs of wear, if I had to guess, they might get another 10+ race days before they may need to be replaced, needless to say I am VERY impressed with the wear lifespan of these parts!

51012248830_3a78b896be_c.jpg



Opportunities for improvement:

1) While I appreciate the larger diffs with the 2.0 design, I found it difficult to remove the sun gears with a pick, sometimes taking as much as 2-3 minutes to pick out just one gear while holding the diff case at odd angles, sometimes praying for the gear to come out.

2) While I never broke a single spindle, it would be nice for these to be made out of aluminum, I found it necessary to replace the spindles every 6+ race days as excessive slop would form around the king pins.

3) King pins would tend to crack around the flared end which is used as a guard to prevent dirt from getting into the bearings on the c-hub carrier... if you want to protect these bearings, then plan to replace these king pins every 2-3 race days. Perhaps a replaceable spacer/washer could be used instead of integrating the dirt shield into the same piece? Idea being that a washer could be made of a softer metal and will bend instead of crack.

4) Battery tray is too low for my preference and is likely to cause damage to the batteries with large jumps. It would be nice to have an option with a full height tray with carbon strap so that the battery can't shift/crack or get damaged as easily. Over the course of 6 months, I damaged 2 batteries with internal wiring issues and I've seen the same issue happen to others running the 2.0 at the track in my area regardless of the brand of battery used among 5+ brands of batteries.

5) Rear shocks are too small, didn't appreciate the idea of having to spend another $100+ on option parts for the taller rear shock tower and longer shock parts

6) Would be nice to include both the standard and tall wing mount in the kit, or at least drill extra holes in the rear shock tower to raise the wing mount.

7) Would be nice to include a set of blank shock pistons in the kit



It was a lot of fun racing my 2.0, I even won a handful of races with it, very solid platform with LOTS of corner speed, but the time has come for me to try something different.

Thanks TEKNO!
 
Any chance you’ll be making a set of those mud guards for the new ET48 2.0? Or selling?
Yes, I plan to make them, I know several folks will be running the ET48 2.0 this weekend and I'll take some measurements so that I can start making a prototype to test as early as next week.
 
Sorry to dredge up old thread. I'm new to the hobby and will be practicing / racing at Thornhill, building an EB48 2.0 currently.
At a high level I understand everything in this thread, but would like suggestions on where to start such that the car behaves appropriately at Thornhill for a newbie. Should I run Tekno stock, stock with minor changes to shocks / diff oils, or copy your setup end/end for example. Hope to meet you at the track.

Note: I already ordered all the non Thornhill parts mentioned in this thread.
 
@BeardedCoder
Welcome to TF and welcome to Thornhill, looking forward to racing with you soon!

I don't run TEKNO anymore so I can't make any recommendations on the current layout but I would consider starting with the stable setup that I posted on the OP, that will be far closer than the box stock setup for Thornhill.

Good Luck!
 
@BeardedCoder
Welcome to TF and welcome to Thornhill, looking forward to racing with you soon!

I don't run TEKNO anymore so I can't make any recommendations on the current layout but I would consider starting with the stable setup that I posted on the OP, that will be far closer than the box stock setup for Thornhill.

Good Luck!
Thanks for the reply. I'll try to find you at the track to bounce some questions if you don't mind.
 

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