MT410 2.0 BUILD/REVIEW

[Billl DeLong]

This build will be targeted for bashers. I have close to 40 years of experience with R/C with the past 15 years focusing most of my effort as a club racer. I will occasionally provide build services where a new forum member reached out to me to do this build for him and I've decided to share this build experience with the group.

*** VERY IMPORTANT ***

The MT410 2.0 is a complete re-design where virtually no parts are backward compatible with the original release of the MT410 which was based on the EB48.3 buggy chassis + center drive line and the ET48.3 arms + drive shafts. The MT410 2.0 is based on the 1/8 2.x line of vehicles even though they are marketing it as 1/10 size truck... simply put, it's a beast that can take a serious beating that will continue the legacy of TEKNO holding the crown as the King of all bashers!

Be very careful that you note the differences when selecting spare parts, be sure they are compatible with the MT410 2.0

Note that no body/wheels are included in the kit but they have recommended lists to choose from here:

• Body Fitment Chart
• Wheel Fitment Chart

 

[Billl DeLong]

A BAG

Recommended Upgrades:

• TKR5149A – Differential Cross Pins (Aluminum, 6pcs, requires TKR5150 gears)
• TKR5150 – Differential Gear Set (6pcs, requires TKR5149 pins)

The diff comes with composite plastic cross pins which will probably be fine with modest power in the 2S-4S range, but if you plan to run on 6S and WHEN those cross pins snap, it would be a good idea to upgrade to the aluminum pins at that point!

• I prefer to use the skewer method to apply grease on the seal and shove the seal into place using needle nose pliers to force the seal in place when removing the outdrive from the inside of each diff case
  
• This is the most common step that people miss which cause diff leaks, be sure to apply a thin layer of grease on the slotted groove of each out drive
  
• While not required, I prefer to place 4 small dabs of grease to help hold the gasket in place so the holes remain aligned nicely
  
• I highly recommend placing a small amount of grease on each screw when driving into plastic that hasn't been threaded yet
  
• Final assembly
  

 

[Billl DeLong]

B BAG

• For the front/rear diffs, I prefer to chamfer the slots of each outdrive with a stone bit on my dremel to prevent them from gouging the edges which can make it impossible to remove the diff shims later on
  
• I also prefer to mark each diff with a silver Sharpie to make it easier for assembly and rebuilds
  

 

[Billl DeLong]

C BAG

• It's VERY important that you "degrease" the threads using an alcohol swab, I will thread the set screw all the way through to ensure the threads all completely free of any residual impurities in the machining process
  
• I prefer a gel based thread lock and apply a liberal amount ensuring total thread coverage before fastening the set screw in place
  
• I use the 17mm slot of the TEKNO Multi-tool to gain extra leverage when fastening my hardware on critical parts, these set screws are NOTORIOUS for coming loose on new builds and these steps here will minimize this failure from occurring
  
• This is about how much grease I apply around each crown gear and I've found that WLG provides significantly longer wear than any other formula of grease.
  
• I also prefer to apply thread lock on the nuts for securing the shock standoffs
  

 

[Billl DeLong]

D BAG

• It doesn't matter what kit I build, the "D BAG" is always my favorite step, ha! Nothing different to address here, everything done the same as highlighted in the previous step
  

 

[nino.]

I managed to crack the rear diff outdrive (indrive?) on a 410.3 when tightening the set screw. I'm pretty sure I'd shear something off completely if I used extra leverage.

Thanks for the thread!

 

[Billl DeLong]

E BAG

• Recommended Upgrades if you plan to bash hard, absolutely necessary for 6S power:
  • TKR9164C – Hinge Pin Brace (CNC, 7075, -2mm LRC, EB/NB48 2.1, D Block)
  • TKR9163B - Hinge Pin Brace (CNC, 7075, -1mm LRC, EB/NB48 2.1, C Block)
• I prefer to use side cutters with the flat edge against each part to get perfect flush cuts when trimming the plastic mold injections from the part trees
  
• Very important to chuck each turnbuckle into a drill and drive the threads all the way in/out 3 times for each ball end to "break in" the threads making it a lot easier for tuning
  
• Use the TEKNO Multi-tool to easily pop in each ball link
  
• I also make sure to apply thread lock on every nylon lock nut, best to play it safe!
  

 

[RustyUs]

E BAG

• Recommended Upgrades if you plan to bash hard, absolutely necessary for 6S power:
  • TKR9164C – Hinge Pin Brace (CNC, 7075, -2mm LRC, EB/NB48 2.1, D Block)
  • TKR9163B - Hinge Pin Brace (CNC, 7075, -1mm LRC, EB/NB48 2.1, C Block)
• Very important to chuck each turnbuckle into a drill and drive the threads all the way in/out 3 times for each ball end to "break in" the threads making it a lot easier for tuningView attachment 10958
• Use the TEKNO Multi-tool to easily pop in each ball linkView attachment 10959
• I also make sure to apply thread lock on every nylon lock nut, best to play it safe!View attachment 10960

I like your style. Even though manuals do not state the use of threadlocker on those camber link/tower nuts, they take a lot of abuse... threadlocker is a must indeed.

 

[Billl DeLong]

F BAG

• Recommended Upgrades if you plan to bash hard, absolutely necessary for 6S power:
  • TKR9161B - Hinge Pin Brace (CNC, 7075, -1mm LRC, EB/NB48 2.1, A Block)
  • TKR9162B - Hinge Pin Brace (CNC, 7075, -1mm LRC, EB/NB48 2.1, B Block)
• No other special notes to mention other than the same tips used as the previous step
  

 

[Billl DeLong]

G BAG

• Recommended Upgrade, kit comes with plastic steering rack bushings which I have never had one come loose using a gel based thread lock (on aluminum bushings that come with the buggy), but apparently enough folks have had these get loose so they switched to plastic which WILL wear faster and need to be replaced, when that time comes I would upgrade to the aluminum bushings:
  • TKR5122 – Steering Rack Bushings (aluminum, gun metal anodized, 2pcs)
• I prefer to use the TEKNO Multitool to fully compress the spring for the servo saver, this makes it a little easier to thread the nut by breaking in the spring a little
  
• ***VERY IMPORTANT*** to place the rubber seal inside the nut which helps prevent it from backing out, though you still want to put thread lock on the servo saver thread anyway, I also place a couple drops of shock oil on the rubber seal to reduce the chance of it tearing when fastening it
  
• I use the TEKNO Multitool again to secure the lock nut onto the servo saver
  
• You need to use a deep socket 5.5mm wrench to fasten the links on the Ackermann bar, they allow extra threads for bump steer tuning if you want to place some extra spacers under the Ackermann bar
  

 

[RustyUs]

I thought maybe you were one of the other 1% Tekno persons to orient turnbuckle markings (notches) to the right, but I see the rear camber link/turnbuckle markings (notches) are to the left. For me, I put the markings to the right on purpose. This keeps my adjustment practices the same as other brands of turnbuckles on my other RC platforms.

 

[Billl DeLong]

H BAG

• I would consider boiling water and then soaking the bumper support until the water cools to help add a little flex
  • 
• Everything else was straightforward:
  

 

[Billl DeLong]

I thought maybe you were one of the other 1% Tekno persons to orient turnbuckle markings (notches) to the right, but I see the rear camber link/turnbuckle markings (notches) are to the left. For me, I put the markings to the right on purpose. This keeps my adjustment practices the same as other brands of turnbuckles on my other RC platforms.

Nice catch, that was a mistake, I have the front links to the right and accidentally swapped the rear links around, I've fixed it... thanks for pointing this out!

 

[Billl DeLong]

I BAG

• I prefer to replace the socket cap screws for the servo and use tapered flat head screws which will perfectly center the servo with the tab holes and prevent the chance of the servo shifting out of place
  
• I will be installing an SRT BH927S servo with a Trinity MX8 Pro ESC and Performa P1 4268-2500KV motor with a 16T pinion which is the largest pinion that the stock motor mount can fit. The manual recommends this motor/gear combo on 16T with a 3S LiPo which I will also be installing later
  
• 

 

[Billl DeLong]

J BAG

• I prefer to pack the Rx box with open cell foam that is very soft and squishy so that the Rx is completely covered so that it can't rattle around to reduce the chance of the servo wires from disconnecting nor damaging the Rx from hard chassis slaps when taking large jumps... if you want your electronics to last, it's best to always use a landing ramp from jumps!
  
• I really like how an aluminum servo horn is included in the kit and a 3S-8Ah battery is a perfect fit with the stock servo strap that measures 17", also note that you want to orient the wiring of the battery toward the rear of the chassis to minimize damage from hard nose dives forcing the battery forward so it will be less likely to cause internal wiring damage to the battery.
  

 

[Billl DeLong]

K BAG

• Recommended Upgrade if you plan to take jumps with extreme air and bash really hard
  • TKR9586 – Chassis/Shock Tower Brace (MT410 2.0)
• I prefer to use RED thread lock on the pinion gear, this will require a micro torch to melt the glue to remove later, but I have been burned too many times with blue thread lock not meeting my needs where rarely have I ever had any problems with RED thread lock on this fastener
  
• I am not particularly fond of the enclosed center diff, this makes it difficult to inspect the pinion gear, plus the access to the screws are a little awkward compared to the EB48 diff access but I can see the appealing nature for bashers who demand running on loose gravel reducing the risk of rocks getting jammed into the mesh
  

 

[Billl DeLong]

L BAG

• Recommended Upgrades - the stock plastic shock caps will wear out faster than aluminum caps, especially around the emulsion bleeder threads with frequent rebuilds
  • TKR6712A – Shock Caps (7075, emulsion, black ano, 2pcs)
• I use the skewer method by placing all the cartridge pieces in reverse order on the shaft, with grease in between each
  • 
• Everything else is straightforward
  

 

[Billl DeLong]

M BAG

• Same notes as previous step
  

 

[Billl DeLong]

N BAG

• Final step in the manual, fairly straightforward, finishing touches are going to be the body/wheels
  
• 
• 

 

[Billl DeLong]

Almost done, last step is to install RC Body Armor + Dragon Skin to protect the paint/body, but here's a quick preview without any decals: