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BUILD/REVIEW EB48 2.0

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yo, Bill, you got a part number for the TLR bladders? is it TLR244061?
 
yo, Bill, you got a part number for the TLR bladders? is it TLR244061?

These are the bladders that I've linked in the OP and posted on my setup sheet:

1608649548187.png
 
So after 19 race days plus lots of practice sessions, the time has come to replace the pins on the CVD's, I've already had to replace the pin on the center/rear universal once at around the 10th race day, which is about the same time that I rotated the CVD's from left/right sides respectively to double the life of the original pins and here's what the wear is looking like:
50748745102_70cd24ffc2_c.jpg



I've opted to use these 3x13.8mm pins from 6MIK and will try to see how many race days these pins last before they get similar wear:
https://dialedhobbies.com/accessories/tools/6mik-dogbone-shaft-pins-3-x-11-5mm-11-detail

More info on the Mugen Pin Replacement tool that I am using here:

I have also opted to replace the set screws in the front c-hubs with 3x6mm button head screws to minimize the risk of stripping a screw inside the aluminum:

50749819096_31727522aa_c.jpg
 
another quick question bud, on the springs, with both this setup and the former pink/pink setup, are those the LF springs or the standard?

i put the bornhorst holiday hangover setup on my buggy for our hard packed loose dirt track and it's like driving on ice. NO GRIP. i'm thinking my shock package/sway bars are too heavy. pink/pink might be the ticket or a better starting point for me.

as a comparison, my EB410 is completely dialed on the track so i know it can be done.
 
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they don't provide a frequency rating in the chart, but I'm running TKR6035 on the front and TKR6037 on the rear right now:

SpringChart3-768x586.jpg



I was planning to spend a lot of time at the track this week but unfortunately I got hit with a low grade fever a couple days ago... I broke the fever this morning, and plan to get tested this afternoon, but chances are I'll need to quarantine for 10 days before I can get back out to the track :(
 
Someone recently asked me how much grease do I put on the crown gears and it never occurred to me that I haven't posted an example of this before, this is the diff from my SCT410.3 but I still apply the same amount of grease on my EB48 as well, just a thin light bead along the perimeter of the gear:

50755634257_043922392b_c.jpg
 
they don't provide a frequency rating in the chart, but I'm running TKR6035 on the front and TKR6037 on the rear right now:

SpringChart3-768x586.jpg



I was planning to spend a lot of time at the track this week but unfortunately I got hit with a low grade fever a couple days ago... I broke the fever this morning, and plan to get tested this afternoon, but chances are I'll need to quarantine for 10 days before I can get back out to the track :(
Ok. this is the chart I was using:

NB_EB2.0_SpringChart.jpg



so on Chris' pink/pink setup, he's using 6035 for the front and rear?
 
Yes, at least that's what he sold me when I was trying to copy his setup, ha!

It's probably splitting hairs where a low frequency is probably better suited for a rough track condition but Thornhill is hard packed and smooth:

https://blog.teknorc.com/2016/10/14/new-low-frequency-line-of-springs-from-tekno-rc/

TEKNO said:
Our new spring design improves traction by reducing chassis oscillation on rough track surfaces and large jump landings. Overall stability of the vehicle is improved, providing better forward grip, increased corner speed and quicker lap times.

I suppose you could go with the LF if you're trying to get more traction perhaps?
 
Many folks in my area have been running into an issue with their battery packs getting damaged after taking a hard nose dive causing the top half of the battery to separate and/or crack the battery case.

As a preventative, I've decided to cut a scrap piece of 1/8" Kydex. I had originally planned to use double sided tape to mount the Kydex to the battery but unfortunately the battery tray isn't long enough to fit.

50854946436_a9d1e0d75e_c.jpg


I was able to wedge the Kydex into the tray with an extremely tight fit, in fact I probably need to lightly sand/plane the Kydex to make it easier to pull the battery from the tray, but is does fit and should provide better protection should I take any nose dives:

50855036772_d91ab496c3_c.jpg


It's also worth pointing out that I have the wiring on the pack toward the rear of the car, this is very important because that's where all the soldered internal tabs and balance wiring is located so this minimizes any risk of damaging the internal wiring from a nose dive. It's fairly common to see folks have battery wiring issues if they place the wiring of the pack toward the front of the battery tray :(
 
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Happy to report that with the cushions placed inside the kit included boots they no longer get bunched up and the cushions worked much better than before, also tried Chris Allison's most recent setup and I've completely shattered a bunch of my personal records on the current layout:
  • Fast Lap went from 34.005 to 33.128
  • Hot Qual went from 9/5:16 to 9/5:09
  • Hot Main went from 14/8:24 to 14/8:19
The setup is way more aggressive and has pushed me a little outside my comfort zone, my consistency isn't there, but the speed is definitely making up the difference making it worth the change. I plan to spend some time at the track this next week to try and see if I can settle it down a pinch without sacrificing too much speed:

View attachment 5847

Main deviation from Chris's setup is that I am still using the stock aluminum towers, though I've drilled the towers to get the long link camber, I've recently learned that the Thornhill rear towers are 3mm shorter than the stock towers which adds 3mm of droop which I had to compensate for. I might go ahead and buy the rear -3mm carbon towers just because there are probably some other factors in the geometry that are going to make a difference. I also went up to 350/500 on the shock oils to help settle the car as well.

Also saw another racer strip a TEKNO servo arm at the track yesterday, he was using the locked bell cranks and I mentioned that I haven't stripped any servo arms since going back to the servo saver. I know I'm sacrificing a little in steering response but seems less risky to use the servo saver ;)


So right after I posted this update on Dec 20, I got hit with COVID and eventually spent 5 days in the hospital which forced me to take a break from racing for 3.5 weeks :( Fortunately, I've made a full recovery since then and I am back into the mix :)

Since that last update, I knocked off the rust with my first race day back last Sat and then I really settled into the mix this week on Wed night. Added the -3mm rear carbon tower and changed up my tire package which helped me improve 3 of my PR's:

* Hot Qual went from 9/5:09.282 to 9/5:08.520
* Hot Main went from 9/5:17.536 to 9/5:07.822
* Hot Consistency went from 99.38% to 99.4%

Only big jump was 10 seconds off my hot main, but these changes are definitely a step in the right direction.

Here's the new tire package that I ran on Wed night which I was really happy with:

* AKA Typo SLW on front - Red inserts no holes punched on front inserts
* AKA P1 SSLW on rear - 4.5mm holes punched on center rib of red rear inserts

140198434_4440522879309145_2659777269937856229_n.jpg


Capture.JPG


With this group of drivers, I normally would come in around the #5-7 spots typically, somehow the moons aligned and I was able to put together some consistent runs where I was struggling with consistency originally with the setup, I think the tire package really helped settle the car down and made it a lot easier to drive, though I wasn't hitting the same fast lap as before, so I probably need to keep chasing tire selection to see if I can pick up some more speed while not sacrificing too much consistency... balance is key!
 
I had a good race day yesterday and played around with some different tire combinations... I probably should've stayed with what I ran this past Wed night, but there are too many combinations to test!

Anyway, I was able to break a couple new PR's for this layout which will be the last race day on this layout as the club will be hosting the first round of the 2021 series this next coming weekend.

Hot Lap went from 33.128 to 33.066 ... almost in the 32's, argh!
Hot Main went from 14/8:19.644 to 14/8:07.684

My hot consistency was only 96% which shows that the tire package was very fast, but the car was very challenging to drive.

The change I made was just the front tire from Typo SLW to Scribble SSLW

I just ordered a set of Scribble MLW which is all they had in stock... I really want to try SLW and Clay but will have to wait until they come back in stock :(

Fortunately I have plenty of other tires to test in the mean time.

There were some faster drivers that showed up that weren't there this past Wed night, and I took 5th in the A Main with a group of drivers that I would normally not make the A, super stoked with how this buggy setup is coming along!

I also dyed a bunch of wheels and the kit included white wing today. I was getting tired of the mismatched "dull" yellow wheels and wing and prefer a brighter "neon" yellow to increase visibility.

The following photo isn't really doing this any justice, but I wanted to demonstrate the following dye product:
https://www.ritdye.com/products/neon-yellow-1lb/

The wing on top is the kit provided white TEKNO wing that was dyed Neon Yellow and it's a perfect match with many popular brands of neon yellow wheels on the market... I decided to use the same dye to a bunch of white wheels to get a perfect match.

The wing on bottom is the optional yellow wing from TEKNO, but it's a darker shade of yellow without any neon effect. I also noticed that when I dyed the white wing that it darkened the honeycomb effect so it's no longer visible as a bonus!

50872036832_7403aba846_c.jpg
 
I have update the OP with links under recommended upgrades to the recently released Sway Bar Collars from TEKNO:
https://blog.teknorc.com/2021/01/26/new-aluminum-sway-bar-collars-from-tekno-rc

TKR9090A_Feat.jpg


New Aluminum Sway Bar Collars From Tekno RC!

Help keep your sway bars in place for a long main with these new aluminum collars from Tekno RC! CNC machined from aluminum, and hard anodized, these collars are less likely to move due to the threads being damaged from over-tightening or a direct hit to the sway bar. These are a direct replacement for the stock plastic collars (included in TKR9017) and require 4ea TKR1601 – M3x4mm Set Screws (black, 10pcs).

Vehicle Compatibility​

  • TKR9090A - Aluminum Sway Bar Collars (4pcs, EB/NB/ET/NT48 2.0) is not included with any kit.
  • This can be used with the EB48 2.0 and NB48 2.0 vehicles and should be a direct replacement for the stock part or used as a new feature. Please use the instruction manual for the kit(s) listed to verify compatibility and no additional items are necessary before purchasing.
Click the links above to view other parts.

Product Link:​

TKR9090A – Aluminum Sway Bar Collars (4pcs, EB/NB/ET/NT48 2.0)
 
I was in the market for a new servo and as luck would have it, Jared Tebo decided to travel down to Thornhill for the first series race of the season this past weekend so I bought one of his CT1 servos which worked great in my buggy!

https://www.shopjtp.com/product/ct1

50894435921_d5021a2938_c.jpg


143879625_10220742202839584_8389198521250042599_n.jpg

144252428_10220742204999638_6140250061301493491_n.jpg





Although it was just a "Series" race, technically a club race, somehow it turned into a large regional event with 276 entries!
https://trc.liverc.com/results/?p=view_event&id=343259

I raced in the Expert eBuggy Class with a total of 55 entries which spanned all the way down to an E-Main:
https://trc.liverc.com/results/?p=view_entry_list&id=343259

I was fortunate to get a good run in the first round (only 2 quals) which was good enough to get a spot in the B Main (pretty much all pro level drivers stacked in the A Main) and I would finish 9th which made me very happy to be right on the heels with many of the team drivers that were trickled down into the B Main!
https://trc.liverc.com/results/?p=view_race_result&id=2811629

Really loving this buggy!
 
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I was in the market for a new servo and as luck would have it, Jared Tebo decided to travel down to Thornhill for the first series race of the season this past weekend so I bought one of his CT1 servos which worked great in my buggy!

https://www.shopjtp.com/product/ct1

50894435921_d5021a2938_c.jpg


View attachment 6141
View attachment 6142




Although it was just a "Series" race, technically a club race, somehow it turned into a large regional event with 276 entries!
https://trc.liverc.com/results/?p=view_event&id=343259

I raced in the Expert eBuggy Class with a total of 55 entries which spanned all the way down to an E-Main:
https://trc.liverc.com/results/?p=view_entry_list&id=343259

I was fortunate to get a good run in the first round (only 2 quals) which was good enough to get a spot in the B Main (pretty much all pro level drivers stacked in the A Main) and I would finish 9th which made me very happy to be right on the heels with some of the pros that were trickled down into the B Main!
https://trc.liverc.com/results/?p=view_race_result&id=2811629

Really loving this buggy!
Well done Bill! Good for you to be able to give the pros a run for their money. ?
 
Well done Bill! Good for you to be able to give the pros a run for their money. ?

Thanks, I updated the wording in my previous post to clarify that the true pros (Factory Drivers) were in the A Main and I was running with the Team Drivers in the B Main where the Factory Drivers typically sign up for the "Pro" division for a big race and the Team Drivers will sign up for the "Open" classes. I wasn't really running with the true "Pro" drivers if that makes sense. I think there were only 4-5 of us in the B Main without a chassis sponsor, though I'm not entirely a privateer because I do have other sponsorships with the following brands:

AKA
Trinity
TheRCProShop
Dialedhobbies
 
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It's been nearly 4 months since I took a win in the A Main, but honestly it was only because of low turnout due to cold weather, ha! At least with 5 days on the current layout, I was still able to break 3/5 of my PR's this week so that was really nice.

I've switched from AKA Typo to Chainlinks on the front and that seems to give me a little more steering to help whip around the 180° turns a little quicker and the big advantage I had going for me was tire warmers which made my lap times just as fast as a warm spring afternoon even though ambient temps were in the low 40's:

1613188376425.png


https://trc.liverc.com/results/?p=view_race_result&id=2828519

1613188485159.png
 
I made a bunch of small tweaks to my setup yesterday, probably the most noticeable change I felt on the track was using the "Active Toe" setting with the upside down C inserts, this made the car a lot easier to control the drifting action in the 180° switchbacks, and to compensate this setting I went with some negative sweep in front to increase steering off power to get the best of both worlds ;)

50978329117_be2ff70d1d_h.jpg



I would take 3rd overall in a field of 27 drivers with this setup which was a really tight field loaded with lots of close racing:


1613939789738.png


Check out all the action with the change of positions each lap of A2 here, good times!

1613939877318.png



1613940028488.png
 
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