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Ultimate Tekno EB410 Stock Build by Tyler Hooks

WoodiE

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I came across this Tekno EB410 build by Tyler Hooks over at the Tekno blog and thought I'd share it here as well. Enjoy!


Hey guys and gals, Tyler Hooks (Hooks Race Services) here, I built a new EB410 for the upcoming ROAR 1/10th scale off-road nationals to run in the stock 13.5 class, so I thought I would highlight some of the tips, tricks, and products used to build a top-level stock car.

As a disclaimer, by no means do you need any of these parts to build a competitive EB410. Unless you are chasing national championships every weekend, I wouldn’t recommend some of this stuff as it requires more upkeep and maintenance as I will explain later on.

eb410-chassis.jpg


Car: EB410
ESC: Tekin RS Black Edition
Motor: Tekin SpecR 13.5
Servo: MKS 575SL (For most people I would recommend the MKS 575 for this car, I was simply trying to save weight with the slim servo.)
Battery: SMC True Spec Extreme 4000mah
Gearing: 23/81
Running Weight: 1640g

So for the purposes of this build I am going to break the car down into 3 parts, front, center, and rear. I am not patient or organized enough to do a build following the manual and categorize it here, so front, center, and rear it is.

Front End: As far as the front end goes things are pretty straight forward as long as you follow the manual. I also chose to build the front end with a carbon shock tower and top plate for added rigidity and reduced weight as well as adding the front sway bar kit.

Steering Rack: For the steering rack, I stuck with the stock plastic bell crank arms, but added the aluminum Ackerman plate for added steering consistency and reduced flex. *I would recommend adding a little dab of glue to the steering rack bushings when you press them into the bell cranks to insure that they don’t end up spinning on the bell cranks when you either tighten them or remove them. (Manual Step C-2)*

eb410-front-end.jpg


eb410-front-end-assembly.jpg


steering-rack.jpg


Parts used:
TKR6623 Front Sway Bar Kit
TKR6581C Front Carbon Shock Tower
TKR6598C Carbon Steering Top Plate
TKR6573FA Aluminum Front Axles
TKR6550P Composite Internal Diff Gears
TKR6560A Aluminum Ackerman Plate

Rear End: Alright, so the major change from stock here is moving the shocks from the rear of the arm to the front. This requires mounting the arms backwards, and a sway bar mount such as the one found here. You also must use a shock tower with integrated camber link holes such as the new carbon one from Tekno RC (TKR6583C). I also added 2mm of (10mm inner diameter) washers in between the inner hub bearing and the lip of the axle to insure that there was ample dog bone plunge at full droop.

tekno-eb410-rear-axle.jpg


eb410-rear-end.jpg


Chassis:
For the center of the chassis, I stuck with the stock spur gear considering the nature of the Tekin motor, but those with other brands of motors could benefit from the 70t option (TKR6670). Beyond that I added a carbon top plate, carbon battery strap, and Avid aluminum rear center diff mount. I didn’t use composite diff internals in the center considering the fact that most of the force and impact is felt by the center diff.

tekno-eb410-chassis.jpg


Parts used:
TKR6635C Carbon Center Top Plate
TKR6503C Carbon Battery Strap
AV1089 Avid Aluminum Center Diff Mount

Shocks:
Regarding the shocks, I added aluminum caps, and drilled out the stock 1.8 pistons to 2.0.

Parts used:
2x TKR6712A Aluminum Shock Caps

Misc. Parts used:
In stock classes the major name of the game is reducing rotating mass. Luckily, Tekno offers aluminum axles as well as composite diff internal gears which I already talked about. Another key player in creating an effective stock car is reducing friction, and while Tekno doesn’t offer ceramic bearings, there are a host of other companies that do. I personally used the Avid AURA line of bearings throughout my car. Beyond that I swapped out the stock turnbuckles for Lunsford titanium, and the ball studs for an Avid kit.
AV-AFK-410 Avid Aura Bearing Kit (Lots of upkeep required as these bearings have no shields.)
AV1027-55-TI-B6 Avid Titanium Ball Studs (This kit is not intended for the EB410 and the neck of the ball stud is 1mm taller than stock so please take that into consideration before buying)
LNS2602 Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles

source: https://blog.teknorc.com/2018/07/19/ultimate-tekno-eb410-stock-build/
 

Billl DeLong

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Thanks for sharing, Tyler is one of the local pros in my area, and is well regarded... he's also recently started hosting a "summer series" program in our region and also emcee's for LiveRC at some of the larger race events. Lots of talent and currently a college student.
 

Slevin

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So I’m thinking of getting an eb410 to race at some point. What is the purpose of flipping the rear a arms around and putting the shocks on the front?
 

Slevin

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What about running it on carpet? How do you configure the center diff? I see some brands run a slipper clutch.

Also is it appropriate to run the rear shock mod on clay?
 
Last edited:

Billl DeLong

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Austin, TX
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EB410, EB48, ET48, SCT410, ET410
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I see folks running the rear arms flipped in all conditions, basically it shortens the wheelbase to get a lot more rotation, if you want a stable setup, then don't flip them but chances are you will be slower. What I found after flipping the arms was that I needed reduce the steering speed in my transmitter setting to be able to handle the more aggressive response and I knocked about a second off my lap times on a 21-23 sec lap turf track in my area.

Slipper isn't necessary, here's my setup for turf, I have also ran the same setup on loose dirt and it was pretty good with just a couple minor changes:
 

TBuggy

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Quick question @Billl DeLong. Do you keep your rear hubs facing in the original facing position or did you flip those as well when you flipped the arms?
 

Slevin

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What about running it on carpet? How do you configure the center diff? I see some brands run a slipper clutch
Quick question @Billl DeLong. Do you keep your rear hubs facing in the original facing position or did you flip those as well when you flipped the arms?
that is a good question
 

Billl DeLong

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Quick question @Billl DeLong. Do you keep your rear hubs facing in the original facing position or did you flip those as well when you flipped the arms?
Funny you bring this up... because I recently discovered that I had accidentally reversed the direction of the hubs on my ET410 when I had built it without referencing the manual, doh! What I noticed is that the camber links were swept back... not really sure how this change affected the geometry, I had a discussion with Tyler Hooks' dad (Doug Hooks) who is by far the most knowledgeable person I know about tuning and he wasn't even sure what this would do. He said "probably nothing" but his OCD would get the better of him and he prefers to see the links running parallel with the shafts.

I then swapped my hubs back to factory spec and I didn't even have to adjust the camber, ha!

So long story short, yes I reversed the hubs just to keep the links aligned with the shafts, but fact is it really doesn't matter. My lap times were the same no matter which direction I ran the hubs ;)

What about running it on carpet? How do you configure the center diff? I see some brands run a slipper clutch
I tried the Exotek center spool once, didn't like it simply because the out drives were wearing out after just 1 race day so was just a waste of money. I have bounced around between 20K up to 120K fluid and have settled on 30K being the most consistent for my liking on turf.

I don't care for slipper, nor ball diffs because there is no way you can consistently tune a rebuild.... yeah you get infinitely more tuning options, but you have to go on feel, there's no way you can share how tight your adjustment is for anyone else to benefit from. I'll take a gear filled diff knowing I will never lose my tune ;)
 

Slevin

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I tried the Exotek center spool once, didn't like it simply because the out drives were wearing out after just 1 race day so was just a waste of money. I have bounced around between 20K up to 120K fluid and have settled on 30K being the most consistent for my liking on turf.

I don't care for slipper, nor ball diffs because there is no way you can consistently tune a rebuild.... yeah you get infinitely more tuning options, but you have to go on feel, there's no way you can share how tight your adjustment is for anyone else to benefit from. I'll take a gear filled diff knowing I will never lose my tune ;)
thanks Bill! I won’t be able to race much atm but the two tracks I’d be able to go to are clay and carpet so I want to be able to switch between the two somewhat easily.
 

Slevin

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Next question....

Does tekno make aluminum pins for the diffs are are there only plastic ones available? I tried searching for them on amain but only found the plastic cross pins.

Also, for running stock would the Tekin RS gen 2 be ok or is the RS Pro that much better? If I got HW what would be best?
 
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Billl DeLong

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Not sure why you'd need aluminum cross pins, I've been running a 4WD SCT motor in my ET410 for 20+ race days on the same plastic cross pins, if you want to run 4S, then I'd go with the EB48 which comes with steel cross pins :)

In contrast, I have tried the composite diff gears and they didn't last very long before stripping, I quickly went back to the steel diff gears, they are over a year old in my EB410 and running great, with the original plastic cross pins too!
 

Slevin

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Not sure why you'd need aluminum cross pins, I've been running a 4WD SCT motor in my ET410 for 20+ race days on the same plastic cross pins, if you want to run 4S, then I'd go with the EB48 which comes with steel cross pins :)

In contrast, I have tried the composite diff gears and they didn't last very long before stripping, I quickly went back to the steel diff gears, they are over a year old in my EB410 and running great, with the original plastic cross pins too!
Ok cool. I was just wondering as I’ve only had the ET48. I’m going to start looking for a stock used EB410. Hopefully on the cheap side.
 

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