What are your "Must Have" Tekno MT410 upgrades

[geezer]

Any of you guys had a problem with the M2C centre brace? On another Tekno forum one guy’s M2C brace broke at that thin point, I’ve just had a look at mine and it is really thin!! I’m a bit dubious about putting it on now?? Your thoughts?

 

[cordell12]

Any of you guys had a problem with the M2C centre brace? On another Tekno forum one guy’s M2C brace broke at that thin point, I’ve just had a look at mine and it is really thin!! I’m a bit dubious about putting it on now?? Your thoughts?

Yes, mine broke right there where it attaches to the center diff. Also ran into another guy on a Facebook group who's also broke in the same spot. Lucky for me Amain is refunding me the money. I have also been in contact with m2c about the issue, they will be redesigning this part to somehow strengthen it up. I had an idea but didnt tell them as its prob not very good lol. Instead of the brace stopping at that one screw, extend the whole thing so that it becomes the center diff top plate.

 

[RC_User]

I returned mine due to the weird fit., and it wouldn't fit under my steering plate for some reason. i think it needs a revision personally. i thought about cutting it in half so I'd have a front and rear like the stock braces and then could wrestle with it easier but decided to go back to the factory braces which fit perfectly of course... maybe in the future if i break a front plastic brace i'll pick up another m2c and cut it in half and use just the front.

 

[RC_User]

Yes, mine broke right there where it attaches to the center diff. Also ran into another guy on a Facebook group who's also broke in the same spot. Lucky for me Amain is refunding me the money. I have also been in contact with m2c about the issue, they will be redesigning this part to somehow strengthen it up. I had an idea but didnt tell them as its prob not very good lol. Instead of the brace stopping at that one screw, extend the whole thing so that it becomes the center diff top plate.

not a bad idea. kind of like that Extreme CF brace that goes from the rear shock tower forward over the center diff but from the other way. maybe it could stretch the entire distance, why stop at the center diff, take it all the way back to the shock tower and replace the chassis brace! ha ha..
that extreme piece is actually a good idea IF they made an aluminum version instead of CF ...

 

[geezer]

I returned mine due to the weird fit., and it wouldn't fit under my steering plate for some reason. i think it needs a revision personally. i thought about cutting it in half so I'd have a front and rear like the stock braces and then could wrestle with it easier but decided to go back to the factory braces which fit perfectly of course... maybe in the future if i break a front plastic brace i'll pick up another m2c and cut it in half and use just the front.

What a great idea my friend! I got my money back from m2c I had trouble fitting it! it just wouldn’t fit both ends without serious effort to locate both end bolts, but as for cutting in half is a great idea and will do that! Thanks mate!

 

[Hye]

I posted this issue I ran into on my DB48 build thread. It’s unlikely everyone is interested in building a DB so I’m going to post it here too, in hopes to bring more attention to it.

After I just received my m2c parts, people posted that there is a week spot on the chassis brace. I believe m2c said they will replace that which is nice.

Here is another issue that I just figured out. During my build I noticed the center diff would rub somewhere I couldn’t see. I spent a few hours and just couldn’t figure it out. Took things apart, put them back together, tightened, loosened... I finally gave up thinking it’s a warped spur. I took the center diff from my MT and dropped it in my DB and It fixed the problem. Everything rotated smoothly. My MT diff spur is the lightened steel one. At this point I still thought the issue was the plastic one not being straight.

Today I was on amain ordering a new rotor for my tekin motor and I noticed there was a new review on the m2c chassis. It was a 1 star review which I found interesting since I haven’t seen anything bad about the chassis. It mentions how his spur gear rubbed on his chassis and he had to round down his spur to make it work. I of course jumped over to mine to see if that’s the issue. It sure is.

This is the steel spur and you can see that the thinner diameter allows plenty of clearance from the chassis.

This is the stock spur. It rubs more than the picture shows because, the plastic spur has a small wobble due to the fact they can’t mold the plastic one to perfection.

this is the m2c Et48 chassis

 

[cordell12]

Interesting. I have the m2c chassis as well and am using the stock composite spur (for now). I dont seem to have any rub on the spur/chassis but if I push the spur/diff towards the dip in the chassis it gets mighty close. Perhaps m2c went off the assumption that anyone using m2c chassis will be using metal spurs?

edit...a small shime will fix this. I am not sure of the size, think about the front/rear diffs, the shim that goes to the outside of the bearing.

 

[Dave]

Hi Creeper - Please tell me about the center diff upgrade. Is it aftermarket, or a retrofit from a different rig?

It’s a tekno upgrade aluminum diff mount. I guess, look it up in your build instructions you’ll find it there

 

[Peejoe]

You must be really good at shimming! I usually have pretty good luck, but the power we push through these things and the abuse we expose them to, it's not surprising to me when a diff gives out.

I just had my first center diff blow out last week. I had noticed fluid inside the cover and when I looked closer it looked like a piece flew right through the side. I used a spare front/rear diff for now but will be looking to upgrade the center diff.

 

[Relic01]

The hole is plugged by threding on the cap passed the hole ,, I believe , that's what you're asking , during the build that made me wonder a bit too?

 

[Relic01]

All these responses and nobody brought up the t bone racing bumper and center brace , these two things turn this truck into a brick , really tough stuff , it has already saved my truck when my buddy piled my Mt into the only 4×4 in 50 yards , it bounced off and didn't even bend the body , unbelievable !!!

 

[Relic01]

I don't see anyone mention the carriers , they are always loosening the ball ends , I can't find any upgrades for these , anyone know of any ?

 

[lampshade9909]

I posted this issue I ran into on my DB48 build thread. It’s unlikely everyone is interested in building a DB so I’m going to post it here too, in hopes to bring more attention to it.

After I just received my m2c parts, people posted that there is a week spot on the chassis brace. I believe m2c said they will replace that which is nice.View attachment 716


Here is another issue that I just figured out. During my build I noticed the center diff would rub somewhere I couldn’t see. I spent a few hours and just couldn’t figure it out. Took things apart, put them back together, tightened, loosened... I finally gave up thinking it’s a warped spur. I took the center diff from my MT and dropped it in my DB and It fixed the problem. Everything rotated smoothly. My MT diff spur is the lightened steel one. At this point I still thought the issue was the plastic one not being straight.

Today I was on amain ordering a new rotor for my tekin motor and I noticed there was a new review on the m2c chassis. It was a 1 star review which I found interesting since I haven’t seen anything bad about the chassis. It mentions how his spur gear rubbed on his chassis and he had to round down his spur to make it work. I of course jumped over to mine to see if that’s the issue. It sure is.

This is the steel spur and you can see that the thinner diameter allows plenty of clearance from the chassis.View attachment 717


This is the stock spur. It rubs more than the picture shows because, the plastic spur has a small wobble due to the fact they can’t mold the plastic one to perfection.View attachment 718this is the m2c Et48 chassis

A little late chiming in here, but I had issues getting my spur gear to not rub on my ET48.3. The solution was to tighten my spur gear on my differential even more. I had to crank it down until the diff couldn't move freely, then loosen it back off bout 1/8 of a turn. And then it was moving freely AND the spur could move without rubbing on the inside. I don't recall mine rubbing in that spot though. It was rubbing somewhere though.

 

[BashingBrian]

Anything M2C...???

 

[NicC]

Let's see: m2c racing: center brace, rear brace, emulsion shock caps, rear tow blocks, shock cap delrin bushings, f/r shock tower braces, chassis, aluminum diff cases. Also all T-Bone bumpers and skid plate. Changing soon to extended ET chassis. I love mods and I usually get what looks good to me. Now I will look for that JConcepts cover ^^^ above. Oh has alloy rear hubs and universal axles. Losi center diff setup too. Acer ceramic bearings.

Did you go through with the extended Chassis? Are you happy with it?

 

[Nicochau]

Did you go through with the extended Chassis? Are you happy with it?

I have both an ET48 with the longer wheelbase and m2c chassis and the MT410 with the shorter stock chassis.

At the end of the day, it really depends what you want to do with it.

Big power, high speed, looking for stability and control power => extended chassis
Want a more playful truck with tons of air control for backflips => stock length

Two different flavors of the same truck, i wasn’t able to chose and ended up with both. I like the shorter one to play around the backyard. Also appreciate the fact that it is very playful on 4s and doesn’t require 6s power. You’ll want the longer wheelbase for racing or for a speed basher. It will handle power a lot better if you’re planning on building monster power.

 

[NicC]

I have both an ET48 with the longer wheelbase and m2c chassis and the MT410 with the shorter stock chassis.

At the end of the day, it really depends what you want to do with it.

Big power, high speed, looking for stability and control power => extended chassis
Want a more playful truck with tons of air control for backflips => stock length

Two different flavors of the same truck, i wasn’t able to chose and ended up with both. I like the shorter one to play around the backyard. Also appreciate the fact that it is very playful on 4s and doesn’t require 6s power. You’ll want the longer wheelbase for racing or for a speed basher. It will handle power a lot better if you’re planning on building monster power.

It would make sense for me to start with the MT410 and convert to the longer wheelbase. From the videos I've watched it does not look impossible.

Do you have any thoughts on the Truggy which is expected to release mid-October? Would it make more sense to convert a MT410 or wait for this Truggy?

 

[Nicochau]

It would make sense for me to start with the MT410 and convert to the longer wheelbase. From the videos I've watched it does not look impossible.

Do you have any thoughts on the Truggy which is expected to release mid-October? Would it make more sense to convert a MT410 or wait for this Truggy?

MT410 extension is fairly easy. Might as well use the M2C chassis for that, since it is more of a basher chassis.

The expected ET48 2.0 is going to bring a few convenience features we find already on the EB48 2.0:
• quick diff access (which you will likely with basher bumper anyhow)
• more room for electronics
• the appeal of owning the “latest model”

On the flip side, with the older model:
• you have a very smooth and proven platform, both MT410 and ET48.3 are amazing to drive. Unlike the EB48.4 buggy which was considered a bit touchy and hard to pilot.
• a ton of aftermarket support the new model won’t have before a while

To your question of new vs. old: if your racing, you may want to wait for the new Truggy, if you are bashing, get the MT410 and get immediately access to all 3rd party stuff from M2C and t-bone.

To your question of MT410 extended vs. ET48: not much of a difference if you ask me. The ET48.3 has longer towers, aluminum shock caps, a wing and body posts mainly compatible with the ugly stock body. The MT410 has slightly shorter towers with the SCT body mounts that make it easier to adopt any truck body with the right wheelbase. If you’re not racing, I don’t think you’ll see much difference in driveability. Just tried a friend’s extended mt410 truck a few days ago and it is a great RC. The aluminum caps and wing are things you could easily add to the mt410 if you wanted.

Conclusion, for a basher, the MT410 is hands down the better choice IMO. Get yourself the amazing T-Bone bumpers and run a good looking body, it will make you happier than the more race-appealing features of the ET48. You can extend that MT410 to make it an awesome high power and speed basher (recommend getting m2c chassis for that).

 

[NicC]

MT410 extension is fairly easy. Might as well use the M2C chassis for that, since it is more of a basher chassis.

The expected ET48 2.0 is going to bring a few convenience features we find already on the EB48 2.0:
• quick diff access (which you will likely with basher bumper anyhow)
• more room for electronics
• the appeal of owning the “latest model”

On the flip side, with the older model:
• you have a very smooth and proven platform, both MT410 and ET48.3 are amazing to drive. Unlike the EB48.4 buggy which was considered a bit touchy and hard to pilot.
• a ton of aftermarket support the new model won’t have before a while

To your question of new vs. old: if your racing, you may want to wait for the new Truggy, if you are bashing, get the MT410 and get immediately access to all 3rd party stuff from M2C and t-bone.

To your question of MT410 extended vs. ET48: not much of a difference if you ask me. The ET48.3 has longer towers, aluminum shock caps, a wing and body posts mainly compatible with the ugly stock body. The MT410 has slightly shorter towers with the SCT body mounts that make it easier to adopt any truck body with the right wheelbase. If you’re not racing, I don’t think you’ll see much difference in driveability. Just tried a friend’s extended mt410 truck a few days ago and it is a great RC. The aluminum caps and wing are things you could easily add to the mt410 if you wanted.

Conclusion, for a basher, the MT410 is hands down the better choice IMO. Get yourself the amazing T-Bone bumpers and run a good looking body, it will make you happier than the more race-appealing features of the ET48. You can extend that MT410 to make it an awesome high power and speed basher (recommend getting m2c chassis for that).

This is precisely the detailed information I needed. I’ll work through this and come back to you with questions. THANKS!

 

[NicC]

MT410 extension is fairly easy. Might as well use the M2C chassis for that, since it is more of a basher chassis.

The expected ET48 2.0 is going to bring a few convenience features we find already on the EB48 2.0:
• quick diff access (which you will likely with basher bumper anyhow)
• more room for electronics
• the appeal of owning the “latest model”

On the flip side, with the older model:
• you have a very smooth and proven platform, both MT410 and ET48.3 are amazing to drive. Unlike the EB48.4 buggy which was considered a bit touchy and hard to pilot.
• a ton of aftermarket support the new model won’t have before a while

To your question of new vs. old: if your racing, you may want to wait for the new Truggy, if you are bashing, get the MT410 and get immediately access to all 3rd party stuff from M2C and t-bone.

To your question of MT410 extended vs. ET48: not much of a difference if you ask me. The ET48.3 has longer towers, aluminum shock caps, a wing and body posts mainly compatible with the ugly stock body. The MT410 has slightly shorter towers with the SCT body mounts that make it easier to adopt any truck body with the right wheelbase. If you’re not racing, I don’t think you’ll see much difference in driveability. Just tried a friend’s extended mt410 truck a few days ago and it is a great RC. The aluminum caps and wing are things you could easily add to the mt410 if you wanted.

Conclusion, for a basher, the MT410 is hands down the better choice IMO. Get yourself the amazing T-Bone bumpers and run a good looking body, it will make you happier than the more race-appealing features of the ET48. You can extend that MT410 to make it an awesome high power and speed basher (recommend getting m2c chassis for that).

Thanks again!

I’m a little confused by the naming conventions:
- You said the ET48.3 is great to drive. Did you mean the EB48.3? Or do they go backwards with the 48.*?
- the new model is the ET48.2. Was there a “0.1”?
Sorry for being pedantic. I’m just trying to get it right in my head.

I now understand the ET48.2 will be a long wheelbase. How is the expected width going to compare with the MT410? ie if it’s expected to be as wide then I anticipate the car will stay planted at high speed.

re Racing: I will not be racing to start.

re MT410 vs ET48.3: that is very interesting. I automatically thought it would be more sturdy and be more stable to convert the MT to the ET. The ET body is an ugly pig. Maybe it grows on you...

re Extending the wheelbase / your conclusion: that is the same conclusion I’m reaching.

The new ET48 2.0 will be all new but the MT410 is proven and the M2C components are perfect for it.

Q: if I’m going for the MT410 with extended M2C chassis from the start; what pinion and motor is best so it’s not sluggish? (And fits!)