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What are your "Must Have" Tekno MT410 upgrades

RC_User

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Just watched Ryan Lutz's emulsion build video and I am wondering how the oil doesn't leak out of the top hole that he drilled? How does dirt not mix into there?

It looks like after he screws the top cap on, he puts a set screw into the hole. I've never used emulsion style either. looks a lot easier to set up though.
 

WoodiE

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It looks like after he screws the top cap on, he puts a set screw into the hole. I've never used emulsion style either. looks a lot easier to set up though.
That's correct. A set screw caps off the shock and prevents oil from leaking and dirt and grime from entering.
 
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L3 RC

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Ahhhh I just rewatched that. I thought that he had put that second screw in the side hole where the dimpled section that you drill to do bladder style shocks. Makes sense now!
 

RC_User

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I kind of don't understand the point of the hole then if he plugs it anyway. you can bleed by loosening the cap instead.
 

L3 RC

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True but then you'd have to remove the entire shock from the vehicle to bleed it. I'm assuming it has something to do with if/when the shocks hydrolock. It would make it an easy fix to just loosen that screw vs removing shock to unscrew the cap.
 

RC_User

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True but then you'd have to remove the entire shock from the vehicle to bleed it. I'm assuming it has something to do with if/when the shocks hydrolock. It would make it an easy fix to just loosen that screw vs removing shock to unscrew the cap.

ah good point. you'd think Tekno would have gone with quick-access diffs then if they cared about easy access. it's a lot easier to remove a shock than differential!
 

Charlie Hall

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That was the very first thing that crossed my mind was the motor, ESC and battery temps as I am sure that this probably greatly affects airflow inside the car. I like the concept of it though. Have you checked temps with and without it installed to know how much of a temperature jump you have with it on?
I have not checked the temps to date since I only recently purchased it and it has been cooler here in Texas so I have not been compelled to worry about it yet. But as soon as the temps start climbing, I will definitely be checking it. So my observations to date have only been anecdotal -- via the touch test.
 

sniper34

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The m2c caps have a bleeder screw and no top bladder, Just the O ring. When you do the MT stock cap setup, the top bladder stops the fluid after it is well tightened. The m2c is a zero rebound set up. So it is bled through screw and piston is up, doesn't fall back down.

I’ve got an m2c center diff in my truggy. It can be used in all Tekno vehicles except the eb410.
It holds about twice the fluid, so the diff will run much cooler. Your silicone fluid will stay more consistent for longer periods...and handling characteristics will stay more consistent.
I have the Losi mods in my MT. Doing the Losi, you have a bigger case (more fluid) bigger gears and spider gears. Therefore bigger pins. You can also get an aluminum case for the Losi too. The biggest drawback is the cost, if that is a concern. I use the m2c cases in my ET but opted for the heavier Losi in my MT. Both 100 weight oil. Metal spurs on both.

Cool I didn't know this chassis cover existed.
The rear alloy hubs are discontinued... I almost bought a set last year but they were sooo expensive for zero benefit.
What's the benefit of a steel spur? Added weight and noise... the Tekno drivetrain is already noisier than some others I've had, a steel spur would make it sound like a nitro haha
Benefit is like any alloy upgrade. Strength and durability. Weight is slightly more but in an MT or even ET that small amount is ok by me. They are being very nicely copied by private people as is the front steering brace. You'll prob change that plastic spur tp metal when the original strips out.
 

monkeyboy_uk

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The absolute first "must-have" upgrade is an aluminum servo horn. The stock one lasts about 5 minutes. The one I used is TKR5253B – Aluminum Servo Horn (25T spline). Purchased from Pete at Fierce RC Solutions who always has freaky-fast service.

This was essential for me. The servo horn in my kit had no splines on it. Must have been a manufacturing defect. I now have a clamping aluminium one.
 
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Pauly

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  2. SCT410
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I kind of don't understand the point of the hole then if he plugs it anyway. you can bleed by loosening the cap instead.

You're not bleeding all the air out of an emulsion shock but actually mixing oil and air. Only way I build Tekno shocks now. Consistent build with zero rebound. No rebound to match between shocks
 

RC_User

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You're not bleeding all the air out of an emulsion shock but actually mixing oil and air. Only way I build Tekno shocks now. Consistent build with zero rebound. No rebound to match between shocks

i like the sound of that. getting the rebounds to match perfectly is always kind of a pain. i have the alloy caps that i have yet to install, maybe I should go the emulsion route... looks like there are o-rings I need to replace the bladders?

except i have the non-vented caps...
 

Pauly

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i like the sound of that. getting the rebounds to match perfectly is always kind of a pain. i have the alloy caps that i have yet to install, maybe I should go the emulsion route... looks like there are o-rings I need to replace the bladders?

except i have the non-vented caps...

You can build the emulsion shocks 3 different ways with the MT410:
1. Use the plastic caps with the 0-ring that comes with TKR6009. Also need TKR5125, and TKR1341 which is what I did on my MT410, but I had the extra parts.
2. Use the TKR8702 shock caps, which include the o-rings
3. Use the M2C Racing ZRS shock caps M2C6770 which also come with o-rings.

The M2C caps end up costing less than the Tekno ones after coupon code and seal better than the Tekno ones IMO.
 

RC_User

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You can build the emulsion shocks 3 different ways with the MT410:
1. Use the plastic caps with the 0-ring that comes with TKR6009. Also need TKR5125, and TKR1341 which is what I did on my MT410, but I had the extra parts.
2. Use the TKR8702 shock caps, which include the o-rings
3. Use the M2C Racing ZRS shock caps M2C6770 which also come with o-rings.

The M2C caps end up costing less than the Tekno ones after coupon code and seal better than the Tekno ones IMO.

what about simply cutting the stock bladders, effectively turning them into O-rings? If i'm gonna convert, i'm gonna do it as cheaply as possible...
 
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Pauly

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  2. SCT410
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what about simply cutting the stock bladders, effectively turning them into O-rings? If i'm gonna convert, i'm gonna do it as cheaply as possible...

Give it a shot....It may work. If you like I'll send you some bladders for cost of shipping in case it doesnt or to experiment with.
 

WoodiE

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Thanks for getting the original post organized, @WoodiE
Most welcome, just trying to make it easier for everyone as there are a lot of good recommendations in this thread.

Thanks for getting this started. Looking forward to more Tekno MT410 builds and users upgrades! :D
 

Maxxwrecker07

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Anyone have references for this upgrade?


it seems like it provides good protection for electronics and I want to order it but anyone has it installed already???
I wonder if it fits well considering that I have the hobbywing max 8 combo


J Concepts: TEKNO MT410 OVERTRAY

----------quote--------
Fitting nicely under the body; the JConcepts part hugs the outside dimension of the chassis protecting the inside from unwanted and large amounts of excess debris build-up during dirty conditions.

The accessory fits snug around the entire chassis structure while being attached along the sides of the chassis with hook and loop tape (or Velcro if you prefer) for easy access. The overtray is built with height to provide extra room for various electrical and battery configurations but is still low enough for a clean fit and installation. There is a slight opening at the front-end which maneuvers around the steering assembly and top-deck and also an open rear-end to provide some natural air-flow in and out of the closure. The tray has large front and rear trim-able openings which can be detailed for air-in and escape.
-------unquote-------
source
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/tekno-mt410-overtray

2655_4.jpg
I use a buggy body.... I run an extended truggy chassis, so the j concepts cover really doesn't work for me. There's also a limit on the height, which can affect which batteries you use. Sure looks nice though!
 

Cmbscx10

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Not much else to ad from the experienced guys here. My only upgrade suggestion is to Tekno. Get rid of that garbage SCT bumper on the MT
 

Hye

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I have only upgraded the servo horn. The three issues I have had with my mt410 are, bent rear shock tower, bent all four axles and both drive shafts (which seemed to have happen all at the same time as the shock tower bent), rear diff skipped gears on hard throttle to stop (replaced rear diff pinion, diff, and diff housing). Maybe I haven’t looked hard enough, but I haven’t found upgrades available for these issues.
 
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