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SCT410 Must have upgrades?

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MikeBuzz

Well-known member
Messages
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Tekno RC's
  1. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
Just about to start my build, what are the must have upgrades?
 
For a basher you don't really "need" anything.

When racing, it's not uncommon for the body clips to pop off and I really like the ProLine body mounts, never lost a screw when using Traxxas body washers and my bodies tend to last a lot longer this route before cracks start to form around the body mount holes:
https://www.prolineracing.com/performance-parts/extended-body-mounts-tekno-sct410/
+
https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas-universal-body-washers-tra1815/p32738

If you want more steering then consider upgrading to the .4 Ackermann, you need both parts:
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr8100-ackermann-plate-7075-gun-metal-anodized-ebnb48-4/
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https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr8104-bell-cranks-and-top-plates-requires-tkr8100-ebnbetntsctmt/

If you want to improve jump handling, preventing nose dives, etc, then consider upgrading to the EB48.4 Low Frequency Springs:
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr8763-lf-shock-spring-set-front-1-6x11-6-3-58lbin-75mm-black/
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https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr8773-lf-shock-spring-set-rear-1-6x14-5-2-75lbin-85mm-orange/
 
The tekno metal servo horn for sure. And if you want to run 17mm wheels then the axle upgrade to 17mm.

Forgot, would consider replacing the composite diff pins with metal for bashing.
 
I don't think the plastics cross-pins need upgrading unless you go with some insane motor. Even that being said, I ran my SL for a year on 4s with a truggy motor and never had anything break, as far as the cross pins anyways LOL!;)

But it wouldn't hurt to upgrade them either. I just wanted to add I don't think they are completely needed unless you are really rough on your gear.
 
I don't think the plastics cross-pins need upgrading unless you go with some insane motor. Even that being said, I ran my SL for a year on 4s with a truggy motor and never had anything break, as far as the cross pins anyways LOL!;)

But it wouldn't hurt to upgrade them either. I just wanted to add I don't think they are completely needed unless you are really rough on your gear.
4s in the SL nice, what motor had you been running?
 
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What I know with the plastic cross pins, they are designed for racing. When first came out they had a bad habit of breaking, racers would not run them. Suspect that has been fixed. When you slip a gear on the plastic shaft, some shafts are tight and some are correct. Hard to adjust the plastic to losing up the gear on shaft. Metal shafts are much more precise. Weight is not an issue for bashing, it is for racing. Strength is more important for bashing. Depends on what you what you truck to do.
 
Is it only the cross pins the are different between the SCT and EB? and outdrives are different I think
 
If we are talking current models then what you said plus the towers, the front and rear arms, all of the drive shafts, hubs/axles, hinge pin blocks and then the obvious body mounts and bumpers. The battery and electrical trays have additional mounts for the side bumpers and air dams also.
 
If we are talking current models then what you said plus the towers, the front and rear arms, all of the drive shafts, hubs/axles, hinge pin blocks and then the obvious body mounts and bumpers. The battery and electrical trays have additional mounts for the side bumpers and air dams also.
Thanks for posting that info, when I posted above I was only talking about the diffs. As we are on this subject the EB48.4 has a wider chassis and hinge pin blocks compared to the 48.3 is that right? As I am sure I have seen it posted somewhere
 
Thats the biggest difference I believe. The .4 also has universals all the way around, new steering geometry and different gearing.
 
I don't think the plastics cross-pins need upgrading unless you go with some insane motor. Even that being said, I ran my SL for a year on 4s with a truggy motor and never had anything break, as far as the cross pins anyways LOL!;)

But it wouldn't hurt to upgrade them either. I just wanted to add I don't think they are completely needed unless you are really rough on your gear.
That is impressive. I only run a 2S system on my SL. I would have thought this platform would be breaking parts with a 4S truggy set-up. You can run the standard EB outdrives which are beefier, right?
 
Never broke anything on the drive train but there were broken parts in other places (arms, hinge pins, hubs) LOL!!

Yes you can switch the outdrives and drive shafts.
 
Very interesting. Someone suggested I also consider purchasing a separate motor / esc combo for faster outdoor tracks. If I ever decide to try that set-up then at least it is nice to hear that ppl have not had issues. But I like the platform as-is with the 2S. Heat is the only thing I worry about, however.
 
Yes that is what it seems. So what do SCT and SL guys do? Just run a fan and watch temps/run-times (make sure gearing is correct)? That is all i do. I guess any tips on that front mifht be helpful for anyone curious, as i am. I also, trimmed out small holes in the body where it looks like a ram-air spot. Not sure if the truck body has a good spot to do that.
 
The tekno metal servo horn for sure. And if you want to run 17mm wheels then the axle upgrade to 17mm.

Forgot, would consider replacing the composite diff pins with metal for bashing.
+1 on the servo horns...not much else
 
Anyone running the .4 buggy steering? I have an SCT410 (not a .3) and i'm on the fence on swapping.
 
I would like to know this as well. I have a 410.1 and thought a steering upgrade would be nice.
But for upgrades, I have them all, but only "needed" an alloy servo horn and alloy hinge pin blocks. broke a plastic hinge pin block during a race. one of the only, if not the only, DNF from a Tekno failure.
 

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