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What are your "Must Have" Tekno MT410 upgrades

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664
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461
Location
Los Angeles
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Thanks again!

I’m a little confused by the naming conventions:
- You said the ET48.3 is great to drive. Did you mean the EB48.3? Or do they go backwards with the 48.*?
- the new model is the ET48.2. Was there a “0.1”?
Sorry for being pedantic. I’m just trying to get it right in my head.

I now understand the ET48.2 will be a long wheelbase. How is the expected width going to compare with the MT410? ie if it’s expected to be as wide then I anticipate the car will stay planted at high speed.

re Racing: I will not be racing to start.

re MT410 vs ET48.3: that is very interesting. I automatically thought it would be more sturdy and be more stable to convert the MT to the ET. The ET body is an ugly pig. Maybe it grows on you...

re Extending the wheelbase / your conclusion: that is the same conclusion I’m reaching.

The new ET48 2.0 will be all new but the MT410 is proven and the M2C components are perfect for it.

Q: if I’m going for the MT410 with extended M2C chassis from the start; what pinion and motor is best so it’s not sluggish? (And fits!)
First model was ET48, called also ET48 OG.
I don't believe they ever built the ET48.2, they actually took many components from the EB48.3 and just called the following version ET48.3. This is a great truggy and I find it to drive very well (I'm not anywhere close to being a competitive racer though). This model is today discontinued.
Everyone is expecting the ET48 2.0 in the coming weeks.

ET48,3 and MT410 are more or less the same width, they share the same arms, MT410 has +2mm hubs. The ET48.3 is a lot more stable though, due to the longer wheelbase. I expect the ET48 2.0 to be equivalent in size to the ET48.3.

BAshers and racers are two very different builds, don't try to build one for both use. Racers chase weight and need chassis flex for traction. Bashers (should also chase weight) but need a stiffer chassis to handle the huge jumps and the stunts.

The ET48.3 is an ugly pig and it didn't grow on me. I live with the body for racing cause it fits the chassis perfectly, but I like looking at my MT410 a lot more.

For electronics placement you have two routes.

1/ Stock placement: fits regular 6s ESC and 4076 or 4274 cans (traditional 1/8 truggy size). The kv choice depends on your battery choice, from 4s to 6s.
2/ custom placement of ESC, allows you to go crazy on the motor. Look for Overkill's build on this forum.

Your electronic's choice should follow the below process:
1/ choice of battery: 4s, 5s or 6s
2/ choice of motor: 4s => 2000kv with a Truggy can; 5s => 1700 to 1800kv; 6s => 1500kv
3/ choice of ESC

If you are concerned with slugishness, go 6s. I personally only use 4s... That's because I'm more of a driving guy rather than a pure send it in straight line type of guy. But to each his choice.

Pick the kv low enough to not be stuck with pinion size. 16t is ideal in size. Size of the tires will of course matter too. The taller and heavier, the smaller the pinion you need to compensate.

The reason you get all sorts of answers on facebook is because of the variety of circumstances people use their RC:
* I tend to want to be safe on motor temps, so I keep it very conservative
* I also do not look for top speed, above 45mph becomes a bit meaningless to me. No control, needs huge playfield to enjoy, becomes dangerous for people around you...
* outside temperature matters too
* are you going to bash and let it cool down or are you racing 10 min non-stop

Example:
2200kv motor, 18t pinion, huge MT tires, 6s battery: is going to be very fun, probably crazy power, fine if you let cool down once in a while and run in cooler area. But there is no way this setup is going sustain a full 10 min race without being boiling hot. Temps over 180F will shoot motor's bearings (it will cook the grease in them) and generate even more heat over time.

Typical racer setup:
2000kv motor, 4s, 16 to 17t pinion, 143mm tall truggy tires. This is a setup that can run 10min non-stop and essentially almost drain your pack in one run.

Take this as a benchmark and build your own based on the usage you want to do with it.
 
Messages
664
Reaction score
461
Location
Los Angeles
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
One last very personal comment comes to thought: bear in mind that raw power is fun but comes at a cost and that is compromised reliability and durability.

RCing is fun, but I really enjoy it with friends. We do a lot of "park-racing" cause at the end of the day, racing is the thrill.

Finally what matters even more over time is that it is downtime that wears people out. You will quickly compromise power for not having to wrench out there in the field while your buddies are having fun!

My recommendation, build a nice basher while respecting that racer DNA (like all Teknos). Don't go too crazy on the power (unless it is really your thing!). Keep things very simple so you can actually drive your RC a lot and not be fixing it all the time.
 

NicC

Active member
Messages
27
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12
One last very personal comment comes to thought: bear in mind that raw power is fun but comes at a cost and that is compromised reliability and durability.

RCing is fun, but I really enjoy it with friends. We do a lot of "park-racing" cause at the end of the day, racing is the thrill.

Finally what matters even more over time is that it is downtime that wears people out. You will quickly compromise power for not having to wrench out there in the field while your buddies are having fun!

My recommendation, build a nice basher while respecting that racer DNA (like all Teknos). Don't go too crazy on the power (unless it is really your thing!). Keep things very simple so you can actually drive your RC a lot and not be fixing it all the time.
I went through your latest reply in detail and also reminded myself to not obsess over this too much. I can start somewhere and go from there. I'm not building a racing team....

I also finally understand the variants and know 100% that the MT410 route is for me. If I then decide to go racing and get serious about it, I can do so. That will be a whole new rabbit hole.

I'd also like it to be running and not go about doing the long-wheelbase conversion from the start. That seems foolish and unnecessary.

As per your list I've found a 4274 can which will be powerful and fulfil my speed needs, although it might be a bit overboard which I'm fine with.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...vOqEbgKiqHmQh8NVpIXI8DR5I7ICa9PcaAje0EALw_wcB

I'm not racing or anywhere near it so your example of the 2200kV, 18t etc is perfect. Bash, rest, bash, see how it goes.

I'm busy with a parts list which I will post here shortly.

Thanks again ????????????
 

NicC

Active member
Messages
27
Reaction score
12
Anyone have references for this upgrade?


it seems like it provides good protection for electronics and I want to order it but anyone has it installed already???
I wonder if it fits well considering that I have the hobbywing max 8 combo


J Concepts: TEKNO MT410 OVERTRAY

----------quote--------
Fitting nicely under the body; the JConcepts part hugs the outside dimension of the chassis protecting the inside from unwanted and large amounts of excess debris build-up during dirty conditions.

The accessory fits snug around the entire chassis structure while being attached along the sides of the chassis with hook and loop tape (or Velcro if you prefer) for easy access. The overtray is built with height to provide extra room for various electrical and battery configurations but is still low enough for a clean fit and installation. There is a slight opening at the front-end which maneuvers around the steering assembly and top-deck and also an open rear-end to provide some natural air-flow in and out of the closure. The tray has large front and rear trim-able openings which can be detailed for air-in and escape.
-------unquote-------
source
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/tekno-mt410-overtray

2655_4.jpg
Did you get this cover?
 

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