• Welcome to Tekno RC Forums! Are you a Tekno RC fan? If so you're in luck as you've have arrived to the biggest and best Tekno RC community.

    Come join our community and ask your questions, show off your Tekno RCs and share your experience!

Jerry-Rigging a SCT410

Jerry-rigged

Well-known member
Messages
53
Likes
42
Tekno RC's
SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#1
Howdy Gang!

I finally joined the Tekno family, with a well used SCT410. I got this truck real cheap, and it will be kind of a restoration, as much as anything. I am not sure if it is a .1 or a .3 It did come with a Tekin Pro4 motor, a HW "JustStock" ESC (Will that tiny ESC run that Pro4?), a servo (off brand, but supposed to be great?), and a box of used tires (mixed SCT and Truggy) for $200. No body, one corner is missing the hex/pin/cvd pin, and there is a bit of surfice rust on lots of screws, and most of the outdrives/dogbones. Front right arm (same one missing the hex) has a bad creak and is binding a bit. 2 shocks leaking, and no shock boots. And a broke front bumper. So yeah, this will be a project. :)

To-Do:
  • Full tear down and cleaning, look for more problems.
  • Find binding in front arm
  • Rebuild shocks, probably need to get me some AE green slime.
  • Front bumper - new stock bumper, or TBR or ?
  • CDV rebuild kit.
  • New wheel Hex kit.
  • Body - Bug? or SCBE? Doubtful I will get a SCT body.

Maybe do:
  • ESC - will this JustStock ESC be able to survive powering a Pro4 4800 motor? I worry about this. Maybe ESC swap.
  • Motor - Maybe throw my BLX185 combo in there and run on 4s?
Any tips, advice, and silly comments are welcome!

Jerry

20180813_195904.jpg

20180813_210329.jpg

20180813_205315.jpg

20180813_205216.jpg
 

Billl DeLong

Well-known member
TF Excellence Award
Supporting Member
Messages
191
Likes
183
Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET48, SCT410, ET410
Driving Style
Racer
#2
welcome to the Tekno family!

No that Justock can only handle up to a 13.5T motor, I would install a HobbyWing XR8 SCT Pro or V3.1

Your car looks like a .1 if I had to guess, easy way to tell is look at the pill inserts, if they are oval shaped then it's a .1 if they are square shaped then it's a .3

The axles look like .1 axles too which use 7mm hex, the .3 uses a 8mm hex wrench to tighten the wheel nuts.

If you plan to bash it hard, then you can't go wrong with a TBR bumper, I've always ran the stock bumper and only broke the support brace on it once in cold weather with freezing temps.

Keep in mind that Tekno offers a lifetime 50% warranty for any broken/worn parts you mail into them with no questions asked so the restoration shouldn't be too expensive... I would do a complete tear down and inspect any other parts that might need replacement before you ship anything into them:
https://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/

Good Luck!
 

Chevys10zr2003

Premium Member
Supporting Member
Messages
285
Likes
179
Location
Minnesota
Tekno RC's
MT410, SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#3
Great to hear you finally got a Tekno @Jerry-rigged. I agree with @Billl DeLong that you should probably just do a 100% tear down and rebuild it from scratch to get it completely cleaned up and inspected especially now that you have a complete step by step of how to reassemble. I really wish that RTR came with these manuals to make stuff easier but oh well. Besides, that's most of the fun with Tekno's is building them.

What servo did it come with exactly?

Just wanted to give you the part number if you didn't already have it, but since it doesn't seem like you are too interested in keeping it like a short course, you could look into these new hubs. That way you could run all of your buggy tires, 2.8's and I believe some 3.8's will work as well. I use MX28's with a heavily trimmed SCT body.
 

Jerry-rigged

Well-known member
Messages
53
Likes
42
Tekno RC's
SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#4
Thanks guys!

Bill - thanks for the link - I'll send them the bumper. With my quick look over the truck last night, I didn't see any other suspect plastic parts, but I will know for sure when I tear it down.

Chevys - I may pick up some of those hubs, so I can run my buggy tires. But $50 for a set, maybe that will wait till the end of the rest-o-mod.

One other thing struck me as I looked this truck over last night - it is TIGHT! I mean, no slop, at all, anywhere. Drive cups have a dusting of rust, but barely show any wear. If it was not for the chassis being polished smooth, and the worn thru bumper, I would think it was a low hours truck.

Me likey. :cool:
 

Chevys10zr2003

Premium Member
Supporting Member
Messages
285
Likes
179
Location
Minnesota
Tekno RC's
MT410, SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#5
Thanks guys!

Bill - thanks for the link - I'll send them the bumper. With my quick look over the truck last night, I didn't see any other suspect plastic parts, but I will know for sure when I tear it down.

Chevys - I may pick up some of those hubs, so I can run my buggy tires. But $50 for a set, maybe that will wait till the end of the rest-o-mod.

One other thing struck me as I looked this truck over last night - it is TIGHT! I mean, no slop, at all, anywhere. Drive cups have a dusting of rust, but barely show any wear. If it was not for the chassis being polished smooth, and the worn thru bumper, I would think it was a low hours truck.

Me likey. :cool:
I didn't know if you would want those adapters or not, but figured I would let you know about them. That's awesome that the wear characteristics of these vehicles are great and they don't gain that much slop.

I really like the quality of the materials and parts that Tekno have but I still miss the quick access diffs and the large chassis with room to do stuff from my Arrmas.
 

Jerry-rigged

Well-known member
Messages
53
Likes
42
Tekno RC's
SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#6
Checkout Details
Order Complete
TKR5518B - Front Bumper Set (SCT410, reqs TKR5000FB or 5001 or 5288)
Unit Price:$13.99 Quantity:
TKR5571M - Wheel Hexes (steel w/ set screw, lightened, 12mm, SCT410/SL)
Unit Price:$9.99 Quantity:
TKR5548 - Decal Sheet (SCT410.3)
Unit Price:$9.99 Quantity:
TKR5174 - Rear Arm Mud Guards (for TKR5184 & TKR5515, EB/NB/SCT)
Unit Price:$7.99 Quantity:
TKR6143 - Shock Boots (for 107mm shocks, 2pcs)
Unit Price:$4.99 Quantity:
TKR6144 - Shock Boots (for 122mm shocks, 2pcs)
Unit Price:$4.99 Quantity:
TKR1215 - M5 Locknuts (aluminum, flanged, serrated, black, 4pcs)
Unit Price:$8.99 Quantity:
TKR6856 - M6 CV Rebuild Kit (for SCT410.3, SCT410, 6851X, 6852X, 1951X, 2210X, others)
Unit Price:$6.99 Quantity:

Total
$67.92
Starting a shopping list
$70 before body. A few of these items I could get off of dollarhobbies for cheaper. Plus they have the manuals there...

If I decided to do the SCBE body, that looks like about another $80-$100.
 
Last edited:

Slevin

Ummm Yeah!
Supporting Member
Messages
513
Likes
283
Location
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Tekno RC's
ET48
Driving Style
Basher
#7
That’s pretty cool @Jerry-rigged! If you are at all interested you could do the .3 upgrade though it may not be worth it if you are just bashing. You can get the manual from Tekno online. If that is what you are referring to.

Good luck with the restoration! Should be fun to watch your progress!
 

Jerry-rigged

Well-known member
Messages
53
Likes
42
Tekno RC's
SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#9
I had a few minutes to start tearing into it. Still have not downloaded a manual, need to.

First - pulled the (3) tires. Each had a washer between the wheel and the hex - is that normal for Tekno? Also found one rounded hex. Speaking of the wheel hexes - they were plastic. That supprised me, I figured on metal hexs. No big deal here, as I had already planned on buying a set of the Tekno locking aluminum hexes.
20180815_081235.jpg

Also I wanted to pull the electronics out. I started in on the motor - I'd not used a Tekno sliding motor mount. Got the screw out of the top, but the motor would not budge. Great, I though, the mount is corroded and locked up. I pulled the 7 screws on the bottom of the chassis to remove the whole motor/diff/forward brace, and find another screw on the bottom of the slider? Got that one out, and the motor moves free - felt like I had dodged a bullet. LOL Yeah, I gotta get that manual downloaded.

Also I looked up the servo that came in the truck. It is a Associated Electronics DS1015 - decent specs, 14.5kg torque, .11s at 6.0v. So I guess I can plan on running it - at least for a while.
20180815_081143.jpg

Onward thru the fog...

Jerry
 

Jerry-rigged

Well-known member
Messages
53
Likes
42
Tekno RC's
SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#10
That’s pretty cool @Jerry-rigged! If you are at all interested you could do the .3 upgrade though it may not be worth it if you are just bashing. You can get the manual from Tekno online. If that is what you are referring to.

Good luck with the restoration! Should be fun to watch your progress!
If I had gotten this truck a few months ago, the .3 upgrade would be on my list. For now, I am not gonna worry about it, though. My local track seems to be in the process of shutting down - fall racing series has been canceled, no one seem to know what is going to happen moving forward... :( But I am 90% basher these days, so while I am disappointed I will not get to race again any time soon, I only get to the track about once every other month, and it has been more than a year since I actually entered a club race, so, I'll just bash on. Plus now I can do either a Bug or DB body on it, and not stress over making it 'not racing worthy"

:)
 

Jerry-rigged

Well-known member
Messages
53
Likes
42
Tekno RC's
SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#11
Got another small window to play with the car. Found out the creaky / binding suspension was because of a screw that was too tight. I backed off both of these screws about a half a turn from tight, and it is all smooth now. Is this right? Should I be able to tighten these screws down, or is this a adjust as needed screw?

snap0351.jpg
 

Slevin

Ummm Yeah!
Supporting Member
Messages
513
Likes
283
Location
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Tekno RC's
ET48
Driving Style
Basher
#12
Got another small window to play with the car. Found out the creaky / binding suspension was because of a screw that was too tight. I backed off both of these screws about a half a turn from tight, and it is all smooth now. Is this right? Should I be able to tighten these screws down, or is this a adjust as needed screw?

View attachment 1282
That’s interesting. Should be fine. It was probably screwed down so tight it was binding. Might throw some grease between the bushing and plastic. That might help too.
 

Jerry-rigged

Well-known member
Messages
53
Likes
42
Tekno RC's
SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#14
So a few questions on o-rings -

The .3 manual does not show any o-rings outside the shock, on the shaft as a travel limiter - is there a standard setup for how many I should use? It had 4 on each shock, I was thinking about going back with only 1 or 2.

Also, the medium o-ring that is part of TKR6009 - the rear 2 shocks were missing this one - how critical is it? There does not realy seem to be a point behind this o-ring, other than maybe to keep dirt out of the lower cap threads?

Last- despite both left arms being covered in oil, all 4 shocks still were full of clear, clean looking oil. So I guess the oil was from somewhere else. (y)

Onward thru the fog...
Jerry
 

TBuggy

Well-known member
Messages
416
Likes
266
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, SCT410, ET410
#15
So a few questions on o-rings -

The .3 manual does not show any o-rings outside the shock, on the shaft as a travel limiter - is there a standard setup for how many I should use? It had 4 on each shock, I was thinking about going back with only 1 or 2.

Also, the medium o-ring that is part of TKR6009 - the rear 2 shocks were missing this one - how critical is it? There does not realy seem to be a point behind this o-ring, other than maybe to keep dirt out of the lower cap threads?

Last- despite both left arms being covered in oil, all 4 shocks still were full of clear, clean looking oil. So I guess the oil was from somewhere else. (y)

Onward thru the fog...
Jerry
Tekno uses a screw located in the arms to adjust droop. They don't need shock limiters.
 

Jerry-rigged

Well-known member
Messages
53
Likes
42
Tekno RC's
SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#16
Droop screws are for down travel, right? These were outside the shock bodies, to limit up travel.

My third pic above, you can kind of see them hiding in the spring perch cups.
 

TBuggy

Well-known member
Messages
416
Likes
266
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, SCT410, ET410
#17
Droop screws are for down travel, right? These were outside the shock bodies, to limit up travel.

My third pic above, you can kind of see them hiding in the spring perch cups.
Yes you are correct about the direction of travel. There are no common setups that I have seen that call for limiting up travel with limiters. My guess is this is something the old owner was doing based from their experience with other brand RC's, perhaps not driving it on a very rough terrain or a track with minimal jumps?

Honestly I would not use them on my track thats for sure.
 
Last edited:

Matthew_Armeni

Tekno RC Staff
Tekno RC Staff
Messages
9
Likes
19
#18
On the original SC we were running uptravel o-ring limiters, usually 4. The truck had more uptravel than was needed, causing excessive roll in the turns. The limiters help control that without affecting anything else. If you're on a bumpy outdoor track you don't need them, if you're on an indoor track, I'd run them. If you want to test the difference, I'd start a run with 4, then drive the car over to a friend and cut one off, then continue running, then cut off another and so on. you should be able to feel the difference between 0 and 4. 0 and 1 or 4 and 3 might be a little too subtle.
 

Jerry-rigged

Well-known member
Messages
53
Likes
42
Tekno RC's
SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
#19
Thanks @Matthew_Armeni ! Any chance there is a download of the original manual somwhere I can get it? I have the .3 manual now.

Also, I did finish the rebuild of my shocks yesterday. For now went with 50wt in all 4,and no o-rings. If my track ends up not closing, I will tune them up later. But for now, it gets a Basher setup. :)

Also, one other odd thing I noticed - so he has 4 o-rings to limit up travel on all 4 shocks - but them on both the front shocks, he had unscrewed the shock eyes about 2mm - which seems like something done to ADD up-travel? LOL
 

Matthew_Armeni

Tekno RC Staff
Tekno RC Staff
Messages
9
Likes
19
#20
For the manual there's a link for instructions at the bottom of the page. From there go into the legacy tab and find the SCT410 manual. Unscrewing the shock end affects downtravel, uptravel is limited by the shock body or external limiters. I would screw the shock end back in because although the tires uptravel is the same, the shaft and piston will travel further into the shock body. They can go so far that the piston nut can hit and cut the bladder.
 

Sign up now to reply to this thread!

Recent Popular Liked

Top