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BUILD/REVIEW SCT410.3

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P Bag:

Build is complete, I plan to race this truck tomorrow night and try dial in the setup, so far this is my baseline starting point, fingers crossed that I'm in the right ballpark!

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I have some upgrades marked on my setup that are on order, should have them installed next week!
 
I noticed you still have the plastic servo horn. I finally got the tekno aluminum servo horn to replace the quickly stripped out plastic one. Tekno recommends the inner hole, the outer hole matches the stock plastic one. I assume the outer hole increases total travel and has more leverage. I installed it with the inner hole and it seems to hit the steering stops, so I'm sure it's fine. Any thoughs?
 
I noticed you still have the plastic servo horn. I finally got the tekno aluminum servo horn to replace the quickly stripped out plastic one. Tekno recommends the inner hole, the outer hole matches the stock plastic one. I assume the outer hole increases total travel and has more leverage. I installed it with the inner hole and it seems to hit the steering stops, so I'm sure it's fine. Any thoughs?

I have since installed all the "Recommended Upgrades" in my listing of the OP to include the aluminum servo arm, I was fortunate to not strip the stock plastic horn with only 1 race day. I did in fact go with the outer hole on the aluminum horn. I was careful to reset my EPA so that servo travel went from steering stop to steering stop. Truck feels dialed, but I am running a backup 540-3900KV 4 pole motor.... when I swapped out electronics from the old rig I had discovered that my HobbyWing 3660-4300KV motor had a cracked can along one of the ribs... HW was nice enough to RMA the motor with a deep discount, but they accidentally shipped me the wrong motor so I will need to continue running the backup motor a little while longer.

Worth noting that the 540 motor is still competitive, it's able to get up to comparable top speed and can clear the large 1/8 triple just fine, but it definitely accelerates more slowly which can be a good thing for sportsman level drivers, the truck will feel like it has more control in the chicanes, but corner exit speed is sluggish. What cracks me up is that it only pulls 2500mAh of juice out of a 5 min qual where my 540-5.5T 2 Pole motor in my Mini Truggy pulls around 3000mAh for a 5 min qual, talk about efficiency!
 
I've been running mine on a similar motor. Castle 1410 3800kv, but on 3s with 14t gearing. I was worried about run time and heat on 2s, but now you got me wanting to try it. Probably should before I go and buy a 1415 or 3660.
 
Thanks for the thread Bill, and also your other contributions re the SCT410's across multiple forums over the years.

Helped me in my decisions and builds , having 2 x SCT410's now, one being an OG and the other .3.

I dont race but have a ball bashing on 3S/4S, with the option of converting either back to 2S race trim if need be with a spare Tekin HD 4600KV.
 
So my RMA from HobbyWing came in yesterday's mail, the case of the motor had cracked after years of use in my .1, so this time I've decided to add some support by using double sided tape and a 3mm block of kydex, then put an extra layer of CA glue just to make sure it stays put. Time will tell if this mod holds up :)

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First race day with the new 550 motor and I am very pleased with the results, I am most impressed with how much more efficient the .3 is compared to the .1, what I have noticed is that for each 5 min race + 2 min of practice, I was only having to put roughly 2.5Ah of charge back into the pack with the 540 motor, and last night was around 3Ah with the 550 motor... with the .1 truck I was easily charging 4.5Ah of juice for the same duration of use!

The truck is way more responsive but I will need to learn throttle control where I must admit that my consistency was actually better with the 540 motor, however I was able to drop 0.2 sec off my PR fast lap with the 550 motor, main problem was that I had a tendency to over jump the large triple with the new motor.

I was fortunate to pick up TQ and the win last night for our club race :)

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So I was curious to see how my "dust proof" radio box mod has been holding up and cracked open the grease seals to learn that the Rx is nice and clean after 12+ race days, time to apply some fresh grease on the seals of the case :)

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I've updated my setup sheet (OP also updated) with a few minor tweaks, full list of upgrades in the notes, tire change, max droop and I just swapped out the ESC, playing the shuffle game so I can put the SCT grade ESC in my MiniTruggy and put the XR8 Plus in this truck which is complete overkill, but I was running into overheating issues with the XR10 ESC in my MiniTruggy :(

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Hi Bill, this is Jason from the track. Thanks for the build thread and tuning. It has been helping out immensely. I am working on the steering assembly now and have hit a snag. The TKR8100B upgraded ackerman plate seems to need TKR1403 screws (found in the NB48 2.0 instructions). The SCT410.3 kit uses TKR1323 screws for the stock ackerman. I am thinking I need to pick up a set of TKR1403 screws, is that right?
 
Hi Bill, this is Jason from the track. Thanks for the build thread and tuning. It has been helping out immensely. I am working on the steering assembly now and have hit a snag. The TKR8100B upgraded ackerman plate seems to need TKR1403 screws (found in the NB48 2.0 instructions). The SCT410.3 kit uses TKR1323 screws for the stock ackerman. I am thinking I need to pick up a set of TKR1403 screws, is that right?

Hi Jason,

Just saw this post, thanks for pointing this out, I will update the OP to include the need for the TKR1403 screws, much appreciated!
 
You list the M2C rear skid plate being recommended for bashers. On the M2C site, it says that that the part only fits with the M2C chassis. Do you know if this rear skid plate would fit without issue on the standard chassis?
I'm considering this rear skid along with T-Bone Basher bumper or just getting the Sumo HD Front & Rear stainless steel plate combo and using the stock SCT410.3 bumper.
 
You list the M2C rear skid plate being recommended for bashers. On the M2C site, it says that that the part only fits with the M2C chassis. Do you know if this rear skid plate would fit without issue on the standard chassis?
I'm considering this rear skid along with T-Bone Basher bumper or just getting the Sumo HD Front & Rear stainless steel plate combo and using the stock SCT410.3 bumper.

Thanks for pointing this out, I missed the fine print!
I have updated the OP to recommend the rear TBR bumper instead which will double as a skid plate. This is great for increased durability for bashers, though for a racer, you will lose 3mm of down travel when the truck bottoms out after a landing which limits rear droop/handling :(
 
Hi Bill, this is Jason from the track. Thanks for the build thread and tuning. It has been helping out immensely. I am working on the steering assembly now and have hit a snag. The TKR8100B upgraded ackerman plate seems to need TKR1403 screws (found in the NB48 2.0 instructions). The SCT410.3 kit uses TKR1323 screws for the stock ackerman. I am thinking I need to pick up a set of TKR1403 screws, is that right?

Hi. I installed the new ackerman plate on my ET. It is much wider than the standard one(approximately 15mm which means 7,5mm on each side). I didn't have enough room left with the standard steering turnbuckles to have positive outer toe. You need to tighten them too much and therefore you may damage the rod ends. So i had to shorten the turnnbuckles by 8 to 10mm(4 to 5mm on each side) in order to have a good range of settings. Did you also experience that on the SCT? It's said on Tekno website it is mandatory to shorten the turnbuckles on EB/NB and SCT with TKR8100(i assume it's the same with the 8100b version which is is a direct replacement) but not for the ET. Actually, from my experience, one need to shorten the turnbuckles as well.
 
Hi. I installed the new ackerman plate on my ET. It is much wider than the standard one(approximately 15mm which means 7,5mm on each side). I didn't have enough room left with the standard steering turnbuckles to have positive outer toe. You need to tighten them too much and therefore you may damage the rod ends. So i had to shorten the turnnbuckles by 8 to 10mm(4 to 5mm on each side) in order to have a good range of settings. Did you also experience that on the SCT? It's said on Tekno website it is mandatory to shorten the turnbuckles on EB/NB and SCT with TKR8100(i assume it's the same with the 8100b version which is is a direct replacement) but not for the ET. Actually, from my experience, one need to shorten the turnbuckles as well.
Hi Looping67. I did not have to shortness the turnbuckles to get the ackerman plate to fit, however I did notice the threads are not visible on the turnbuckles when the steering is at 0 degree toe-in. I did not feel them bottom out when shortening them to 0 degrees. I haven't tried any toe-out, though. I have attached a picture of the plate and the turnbuckles.
 

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