• Welcome to Tekno RC Forums! Are you a Tekno RC fan? If so you're in luck as you've have arrived to the biggest and best Tekno RC community.

    Come join our community and ask your questions, show off your Tekno RCs and share your experience!

410 2.0 New MT410 2.0 Being Released

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I didn't dig into the specs yet, but the 2.0 should be the same wheelbase as SCT and 1/8 buggy. Instead of using truggy arms, the 2.0 uses SCT arms and that makes things considerably narrower.
I don't get it, isn't it now just the same size as 1/8 buggy.??:unsure::oops:
 
I don't think the 1515 length motor will fit with the Monster X esc. You will need to run either the 1512 motor with the Monster X or run the 1515 motor with the Mamba X.
Hi, I’m running a Hobbywing Max 8 G2 ESC with a 4278SD 2200kv motor in my SCT410 2.0. I’ll guess the space for motor and ESC will be the same on the new MT410 2.0 chassis. The Monster X with a 1515 2200kv has almost the same size so I think it should fit.
IMG_0738.jpeg
 
Hi, I’m running a Hobbywing Max 8 G2 ESC with a 4278SD 2200kv motor in my SCT410 2.0. I’ll guess the space for motor and ESC will be the same on the new MT410 2.0 chassis. The Monster X with a 1515 2200kv has almost the same size so I think it should fit. View attachment 9991
The space for the motor and esc is actually 6mm shorter on the MT versus the SC.
 
The space for the motor and esc is actually 6mm shorter on the MT versus the SC.

6mm? That seems quite modest. I would have thought the difference would be much larger. What is the difference in wheelbase? I was figuring something like 25-40mm.
 
6mm? That seems quite modest. I would have thought the difference would be much larger. What is the difference in wheelbase? I was figuring something like 25-40mm.
We couldn't shorten the front more than that or we'd run out of room for the motor, esc, and battery. We shortened the rear behind the diff an additional 18mm. So the wheelbase is a total of 24mm shorter than the SC chassis.
 
This looks like when I put 1/10 MT tires and a truck body on an Arrma Typhon, and that was my most fun car ever. So incredibly durable, yet still the soul of a 1/8 buggy.
Only the Typhon with a truck body didn't look like ass.
 
@Matthew_Armeni I've ordered the new MT410. Can you advise on motor KV for general purpose bashing? Don't need to set land speed records, and I'm not obsessed with running on 4s (although I have plenty of those bricks).

I was figuring something like 3000kv which (if you use the Tekin HD motor) isn't even rated for 4s. More of a 3s motor.

Normally I wouldn't ask about this because swapping pinions (and even the whole motor) is super easy, but in this truck, it seems like more of a task, so might be easier to get right the first time.
 
@Matthew_Armeni I've ordered the new MT410. Can you advise on motor KV for general purpose bashing? Don't need to set land speed records, and I'm not obsessed with running on 4s (although I have plenty of those bricks).

I was figuring something like 3000kv which (if you use the Tekin HD motor) isn't even rated for 4s. More of a 3s motor.

Normally I wouldn't ask about this because swapping pinions (and even the whole motor) is super easy, but in this truck, it seems like more of a task, so might be easier to get right the first time.
If you have plenty of 4s batteries already I would pick a motor based on that. If you like the Tekin HD motors the 1850 or the 2500 would be the ones to go with. Since you said general purpose and not speed the 1850 is probably best. The 2500 you could run both 3s and 4s and gear it in-between so you have speed with 4s and general bashing on 3s.
 
@Matthew_Armeni -- When will the MT410 2.0 show up in the Tekno website? I'd like to see the full stats, compatible bodies and all that stuff that I haven't found anywhere else yet.
 
I guess it's officially offical now. Just received the email from Tekno as well!
 
Just did a read through of the mt410 2.0 manual and here is what I see for parts and option parts unique to just the mt410 2.0 - interesting optional tower to tower chassis brace... which they also mention in their blog here :
https://blog.teknorc.com/2023/12/01/new-mt410-2-0-1-10th-4x4-monster-truck-kit-from-tekno-rc/


Parts unique to the MT410 2.0
TKR9502 - Chassis (4mm, black ano, MT410 2.0)
TKR9511 - Motor Mount (CNC, 7075, MT410 2.0)
TKR9524L - Mud Guard, Battery Tray, RX Box (left, MT410 2.0)
TKR9524R - Mud Guard, Servo Mount (right, MT410 2.0)
TKR9547 - Decal Sheet (MT410 2.0)
TKR9591 - Tapered Driveshaft (center, front, 7075, GM ano, MT410 2.0)
TKR9597 - Body Mount Base Set (MT410 2.0)
TKR9652 - Wheelie Bar Wheel Set (MT410 2.0)
TKR9520 - Differential Outdrive Dog Bone (center, MT410 2.0, 1pc)
TKR9575HD - Diff Coupler (rear, HD, hardened steel, MT410 2.0)

Option parts unique to the MT410 2.0
TKR9586 - Chassis/Shock Tower Brace (MT410 2.0)

some other helpful "Fitment" info from the "resources" tab of the main mt410 2.0 page :


https://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/MT410-2.0-Body-Fitment-Chart.pdf
https://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/MT410-2.0-Wheel-Fitment-Chart.pdf
https://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/MT410-2.0-Motor-Fitment-Chart.pdf
 
Does anyone have the wheelbase, width, and length measurements? Weight is also a plus if anyone knows.

Considering consolidating my ET48 and ET410 (monsterized with Badland 2.8s) to this to get the sweet spot on size and capability on grass.
 
@Matthew_Armeni can you comment on the diff oil recommendations for the MT410 2.0? Manual calls for 100k, 100k, 50k front center rear. I'm accustomed to center being the heaviest on bashers (vs being equal to the front), and going lighter in the rear.

For now, I've filled 50k front, 100k center, and 20k rear, but I am curious to hear your thoughts. I drive on grass a lot, so there's tons of traction, and with a lighter oil in the rear diff I think I'll get better traction (vs breaking loose). On dirt, 50k in the rear as the manual suggests might lock the rear up a lot of the time.

With all that said, you guys know this stuff inside and out... so please educate me!
 
Tune the diffs to whatever you desire. Normally, I run the box stock setup, on any RC vehicle, to get a feel of things before I go changing fluids, oils, springs, etc., etc. With that said, Tekno has some great setup info in the back of the manuals.
 
  • length (bumper to wheelie bar wheel) ~495mm
  • wheelbase ~303-306mm
  • width (wheel hex face to wheel hex face) ~270mm
  • width (stub axle to stub axle) ~293mm
  • total width will vary based on wheels and tires used
Per Tekno yesterday for those looking at the truck.
 
Got my MT410 2.0 built. As you would expect from Tekno, the build was fantastic. Everything from the quality of the *paper* in the manual (I spilled oil on it - no big deal wipe it up and it was never there) to how well the parts all go together.

The MT410 2.0 is a tank! Basically an 8th scale truck in 10th scale dimensions.

Driving: So far I've only had a 3-4 packs of shakedown runs on mostly flat grass and asphalt. Even so, it was just phenomenal. It can handle terrain like an MT but has the control and precision of a buggy on carpet. Very stable and predictable.

One problem so far. My rear diff pinion just broke. Not sure why or how. There's a center diff, and it happened on flat level ground. Even if you imagine the rear wheels were immobilized, all that stands between the motor and the front tires is a center diff with 100k oil. So somehow, the diff pinion shaft snapped before power routed to the front tires (AND, the rear tires were never immobilized).

Over the years I've had a few failures on my Tekno rigs which I thought were due to some user error (like, say, a gigantic jump and a terrible landing) but never had a part fail inexplicably like this. Pic of the damaged part is below (TKR5153M). I am exploring the option part (5152) which uses the word "hardened" a lot, so maybe it is stronger.

If anyone has thoughts on this, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!

Screen Shot 2023-12-11 at 3.26.37 PM.png
 
Got my MT410 2.0 built. As you would expect from Tekno, the build was fantastic. Everything from the quality of the *paper* in the manual (I spilled oil on it - no big deal wipe it up and it was never there) to how well the parts all go together.

The MT410 2.0 is a tank! Basically an 8th scale truck in 10th scale dimensions.

Driving: So far I've only had a 3-4 packs of shakedown runs on mostly flat grass and asphalt. Even so, it was just phenomenal. It can handle terrain like an MT but has the control and precision of a buggy on carpet. Very stable and predictable.

One problem so far. My rear diff pinion just broke. Not sure why or how. There's a center diff, and it happened on flat level ground. Even if you imagine the rear wheels were immobilized, all that stands between the motor and the front tires is a center diff with 100k oil. So somehow, the diff pinion shaft snapped before power routed to the front tires (AND, the rear tires were never immobilized).

Over the years I've had a few failures on my Tekno rigs which I thought were due to some user error (like, say, a gigantic jump and a terrible landing) but never had a part fail inexplicably like this. Pic of the damaged part is below (TKR5153M). I am exploring the option part (5152) which uses the word "hardened" a lot, so maybe it is stronger.

If anyone has thoughts on this, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!

View attachment 10026
I'm curious what motor and battery (2,3 or 4s) and size pinion you were running when this break occurred. Definitely interesting and I wonder if you email Tekno support (with the pictures) to get their thoughts if perhaps they have a batch of weak tkr5153m. I have a couple mt410 (the original) and occasionally you would hear of folks on the tekno mt410 basher group "exploding" the spider gears in the center diff. Never happened to me personally but always made me wonder if bad/weak batches of some parts made it into kits.
 

Recent Popular Liked

Back
Top