MT410 BIG BLOCK BUILD - RC_User

[AJH387]

Nice rig. Really nice details of the build. That thing seems like a monster (clean too).

 

[RC_User]

They actually used to come with an aluminum spacer before the delrin ones.

Interesting... I wonder why the change, hard to believe it would be a cost savings if I can buy 50 for $6...

Nice rig. Really nice details of the build. That thing seems like a monster (clean too).

thanks, it's clean because it's barely been used and i keep it out of the water... hope to get some time in this weekend.

 

[Pauly]

Interesting... I wonder why the change, hard to believe it would be a cost savings if I can buy 50 for $6...

When I received my 2nd one for the ET i was like what is this plastic thing?!! I ended up reusing the aluminum one.

 

[RC_User]

When I received my 2nd one for the ET i was like what is this plastic thing?!! I ended up reusing the aluminum one.

I would have too for sure. I went ahead and grabbed the bag of 50 of the alum ones I found on ebay, hopefully they'll fit perfectly. it'll be nice to have 49 extras.

 

[JonnyP]

An aluminum spacer there would just transfer impact forces to the plastic diff housing. The delrin piece, I would assume absorbs impact better and transfers less force. I could be wrong though.

I just wrapped a piece of black heat shrink tubing around mine cuz I didn't like the white. You can also dye it with RIT black dye found at Walmart if you want to get serious about it

 

[RC_User]

An aluminum spacer there would just transfer impact forces to the plastic diff housing. The delrin piece, I would assume absorbs impact better and transfers less force. I could be wrong though.

I just wrapped a piece of black heat shrink tubing around mine cuz I didn't like the white. You can also dye it with RIT black dye found at Walmart if you want to get serious about it

You may be right, my first thought is that the plastic one would flex and prevent the brace from doing its job as well. Installing an alloy rear chassis brace would essentially do the same thing, increase the stiffness between the tower brace and gear box, but youre right in that it would likely reduce the tiny bit of flex between them too. Hard to say if there is any real world effect...

 

[sniper34]

I really don't think that Delrin spacer will be a problem. Tightened down normally it shows no issues. I have the rear wing on my MT and those screws are for that.

 

[RC_User]

I really don't think that Delrin spacer will be a problem. Tightened down normally it shows no issues. I have the rear wing on my MT and those screws are for that.

I really doubt it'll be an issue too, but it is pretty thin... I want a thicker alum spacer if possible.
Oh cool let's see your Mt410 with the wing!

 

[sniper34]

I really doubt it'll be an issue too, but it is pretty thin... I want a thicker alum spacer if possible.
Oh cool let's see your Mt410 with the wing!

I'll be home in a week and post some. It has E-maxx body on right now. VW going on ET chassis when I get back.

 

[RC_User]

Got the spacer. Fits much nicer vs white plastic but is .13 mm shorter.

 

[Pauly]

Looks like it will work? .13mm is pretty close man.

 

[RC_User]

Looks like it will work? .13mm is pretty close man.

It works but does tweak that side a hair when i tighten it down, binding the screw above it just slightly. Can't tell it's off by eye... might try a tiny dab of CA glue on it just to take up that tiny difference so it'll fit perfectly, or maybe a piece of paper.
Now what to do with the other 49 of em. Lol

 

[Mongoose]

Why am I just now seeing this thread lol? This is an awesome build thread! Subscribed

 

[RC_User]

Why am I just now seeing this thread lol? This is an awesome build thread! Subscribed

i don't know, because you're a slacker? ha ha.

ok final thought, it works really well and i love how it is thicker so it has much more contact area on the gearbox like the brace.

Even after tightening down the 4mm vertical screws I am still able to thread the top left screw in by hand whereas the other two that go in horizontally fall into the hole, Fits a heck of a lot better than the m2c center brace that's for sure! I will still get another one of those though since no one else makes one!

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Great build!

Question on the ESC mounting - did you think about putting the bottom of the ESC against the motor? Then the fan would be pulling clean air off the Servo instead of hot air off the motor. OTOH, though, the fan may ingest more dirt/rocks off the front tires it pointed forward...

 

[RC_User]

Great build!

Question on the ESC mounting - did you think about putting the bottom of the ESC against the motor? Then the fan would be pulling clean air off the Servo instead of hot air off the motor. OTOH, though, the fan may ingest more dirt/rocks off the front tires it pointed forward...

i haven't tried flipping it around. The ESC doesn't get hot enough to shut down, and I just geared down 1 tooth so i doubt i will have any heat issues but it might be a good idea! I need to remove the ESC to tweak the ESC plate a bit anyway so I might give it a try, thanks for the tip. I wish the MMX was a bit smaller!

 

[Timzzer]

I'm interested in this motor, i have the same tires but i only want to run 6s. Also i can only find the traxxas version of this motor so maybe it won't run as efficient as yours. I'm still debating between the traxxas 1717 and a TP4070 1520KV. I'm looking for cool temps good performances but not crazy speed (not over 60mph on 6s)

 

[RC_User]

I'm interested in this motor, i have the same tires but i only want to run 6s. Also i can only find the traxxas version of this motor so maybe it won't run as efficient as yours. I'm still debating between the traxxas 1717 and a TP4070 1520KV. I'm looking for cool temps good performances but not crazy speed (not over 60mph on 6s)

At 6s with a 21T pinion you're geared to do around 85 mph... probably 90+ with tire ballooning.
To slow down You'd have to remove the center brace to slide the motor closer and run a smaller pinion, I think 19t is the smallest then which would still only get you down to around 80mph. Smaller tires would help even more. dropping to 6.5in tire (the most common MT size for proline) youd drop around 8mph more, dropping down to the smaller badlands youd be around 70mph...

If I ran 6s I'd go with a smaller motor so you can run a wide variety of gears to easily get the speed you're after. If I go up to 6s I'll probably throw the Tekin motor back on and hope it doesn't melt.
Check out the Cordova motor Overkill has in his thread "my slow truggy" (it's anything but!) He had the tp4070 and says the Cordova is much better.

 

[jjl5590]

so true that's why i really have little desire to do it. in my experience anything over around 50mph and it just becomes unusable for anything except high speed straight runs, especially a heavy tall rig like this. i usually shoot for a top speed of around 45mph and it's perfect for me. once in a while it is fun to do a top speed run on a big field though, for that 6s would be awesome. i would have to run smaller tires and/or lower KV to even get below 75mph on 6s on this thing. i have always wanted to build a high speed car though. thinking an EB with an ET chassis (short arm ET) for speed runs.

I can't get my EB above 55mph, I'm running 6s with a Reds 2100kv motor, 21/44 gearing

 

[RC_User]

I can't get my EB above 55mph, I'm running 6s with a Reds 2100kv motor, 21/44 gearing

According to the rc speed calculator you should be doing over 70 with that setup. Maybe drag is enough to reduce it...?