MT410 BIG BLOCK BUILD - RC_User

[Overkill]

I saw your pics in the other thread of the M2C center brace. I have two of them and the first one (from the 1st batch) fit just fine, however the second one (from the 2nd+ batch) was off by 1mm or so on the steering top plate hole. I had to push it very hard towards the rear to get that screw started, my chassis is not bent (100% for sure). Be sure to have all of the screws loosely fitted before tightening them, that's very important.

As far as the brace hitting the servo, be sure to use the smallest OD washer on the left side servo screw, otherwise it may be hitting it and causing interference.

As far as the aluminum steering top plate and center diff plate, I'm having shipping issues with the guy in China and unfortunately do not have an ETA at this time. I will let you know when I get an update. I ordered them 2+ weeks ago.

 

[RC_User]

I saw your pics in the other thread of the M2C center brace. I have two of them and the first one (from the 1st batch) fit just fine, however the second one (from the 2nd+ batch) was off by 1mm or so on the steering top plate hole. I had to push it very hard towards the rear to get that screw started, my chassis is not bent (100% for sure). Be sure to have all of the screws loosely fitted before tightening them, that's very important.

As far as the brace hitting the servo, be sure to use the smallest OD washer on the left side servo screw, otherwise it may be hitting it and causing interference.

As far as the aluminum steering top plate and center diff plate, I'm having shipping issues with the guy in China and unfortunately do not have an ETA at this time. I will let you know when I get an update. I ordered them 2+ weeks ago.

Hey 0k! I wondered when you were gonna show up! Looking forward to you making some kick ass build threads...

Interesting about the m2c brace. mine is kinda the same way, i have to use some muscle to get the top plate on too. Not super impressed with it to be honest. I'm a bit worried that with an alum top plate it's going to be a real challenge. thinking about grinding it down a hair to get it to fit better. I actually emailed amain asking to exchange it days ago and they never responded.
Yeah, i had to remove that washer completely from the one position on the servo because the brace hit it big time.
Ah bummer on the alum plates. I was hoping to hear from you with good news today. I don't think I've ever gotten anything from China in under two weeks so hopefully they'll show up soon!

 

[Overkill]

Well the problem I'm having is that he says it shipped out 2 weeks ago but the tracking number still says "not found". He keeps saying give it another few days and has been saying that every few days lol. He uses DHL express shipping which only takes about 3 days to get here. My previous 3 orders arrived within a week of placing the order. I'm starting to lose my patience and he doesn't really have a clear answer when I ask about it, plus his English isn't the best.

 

[RC_User]

Well the problem I'm having is that he says it shipped out 2 weeks ago but the tracking number still says "not found". He keeps saying give it another few days and has been saying that every few days lol. He uses DHL express shipping which only takes about 3 days to get here. My previous 3 orders arrived within a week of placing the order. I'm starting to lose my patience and he doesn't really have a clear answer when I ask about it, plus his English isn't the best.

Ah that isn't good... Sounds like he is BSing you... As soon as it gets into DHL's hands, there should be something in the system. Either that or it got lost/stolen between him and DHL (if he didn't hand it to DHL directly) sucks! I wonder how long he's going to wait before he realizes (or admits) there is an issue...

 

[WoodiE]

Well the problem I'm having is that he says it shipped out 2 weeks ago but the tracking number still says "not found". He keeps saying give it another few days and has been saying that every few days lol. He uses DHL express shipping which only takes about 3 days to get here. My previous 3 orders arrived within a week of placing the order. I'm starting to lose my patience and he doesn't really have a clear answer when I ask about it, plus his English isn't the best.

Sounds like a perfect time to start disputing the charge if it was me.

 

[sniper34]

Hiya everyone. Woodie was kind to invite me here so I'll share build details on my current rig, the MT410. I was very active on the URC forums (RIP) where I had multiple build threads, unfortunately they were also posted on photobucket and I angrily closed my account with them before I discovered there was a way around their new free image hosting limitation so I lost all of my past images too. So I'll start over with the MT410 here!

I was into RCs as a kid way back in the late 80s. Had a Kyosho Maxxum, a front wheel drive off road bugging. very rare! of course I wished I had kept it now! Last rig recently as a Tamiya Lunchbox, but I let her go shortly after building it because I didn't want a shelf queen but I also knew if I had kept it I'd have destroyed it quickly.
I actually got out of RC a couple years ago before my new daughter was born she was born because I knew I'd have very little time to RC, but the release of the MT410 convinced me to give it one more try. I picked up the MT410 way back in November 2016. The crazy thing is that it's still like new, I have had very little time to RC, but I still try to sneak in some wrenching time when I can and enjoy working on the thing as much as driving it. Hoping now that the kid is 2 she'll be able to go with me to the park and let this thing rip.

Proline Trencher 3.8 (40 Series) All Terrain Tires Mounted Tech 5 - Pro116013
Castle Monster X ESC
Castle 6.5mm battery and ESC Connectors
SMC 6700mah 4s
Protek 130T servo (0.080sec, 355oz @ 7.4v)
Castle 1717 1650kv Black can motor,
Tekin T8 G2 2000KV truggy motor ... AND (see below)
Futaba 3PL radio
Proline Ford Raptor body (1st gen)
DE Racing XD Rear Skid Plate
Tekno 5262 Cnc Split Center Diff Mount
Tekno 6015 Aluminum Shock Cartridge Cap Set x2
Tekno 6003B Alloy Shock Caps Non-Vented x2 (Not installed yet)
Tekno 5211 Aluminum Motor Mount Insert (the old style with 3mm and 4mm mount holes)
M2C 6905 Tekno MT410 Aluminum Solid Center Brace (just installed yesterday)

The #1 reason I bought this rig is because it's the only rig of this type (1/8 competition truggy class) I know of that has the suspension travel to bottom out a 7" tire. I've had a couple of other truggies and most of them are engineered to use standard 1/8 truggy size wheels/tires, which is understandable, as they are primarily for competition where you're bound to the kind of tire/wheel you run. For some reason Tekno designed these things to have far more suspension travel than a normal 1/8 competition rig. I wanted something that I could run huge tires and just drive up over curbs if I need to, yet be a 1/8 comp style vehicle. I had a monster truck in the past and while it was great, it was very heavy and used a lot of weird parts and aftermarket support was almost zero.

Things no longer: I used to have a set of belted Sweep Terrain tires. They were cool because they had ZERO ballooning, but the tread was hard and they had laughable lack of traction on anything other than the road. For a street run they were really good but the second I hit grass I could barely get through it, the tires would just spin. So I decided to sell them off to fund other goodies.

Let's cut to the chase. The little Tekin T8 Gen2 2000kv Truggy motor was never designed to push these HUGE heavy 7inch wheels/tires. They are like triple the weight of a 1/8 Truggy wheel/tire. This motor gets warm very quickly. So it's time to upgrade.

Tekin T8 g2 2000kv Truggy motor vs Castle 1717 pull from a Traxxas XO-1.

Luckily the Tekno factory motor mount can support this beast. I've done this same upgrade on an old RC8Te (with an aftermarket motor mount needed), and AE Rival (had to modify the factory mount and add additional motor support) and the Rival weighed a lot more and still this motor never got over around 135 degrees on 4s and did around 45mph. Needless to say this is my favorite motor! Never worry about temps again. There are quite a few people who upgrade to the longer can motors like the TP series, those are also great from what I've read. I just wanted to stick with Castle and not have to relocate my ESC (but did have to flip it on its side to fit.)

Two cons to changing to this motor:
1. The Castle isn't sensored, which is really nice for going SLOW and crawl over stuff, otherwise, no real-world difference for a basher.
2. The motor can size being larger means I can't move it close enough to the center to run smaller than around a 21T pinion (I have a 22T), that means 55mph speeds even on 4s, which is a little faster than I need. Shooting for 50. The motor doesn't get hot (you can rest your hand on it!) but the ESC gets warm real quick.

To "fix" the space/gearing problem I just recently grabbed the m2c center brace.

Reasoning behind this, I hoped it was a little more 'slim' and would give me a millimeter or two of extra space to move the motor in closer so that I could fit a smaller pinion. After installing it I know I can go down one tooth to a 21T but I think that will be it, so I'll order one up to try to reduce the temps on the MonsterX. I'm not sure if the factory braces were the same space limitation, I forgot to check it before I took it out (I've got a 22T.) Another possibility is just removing the front center brace completely. Tekno is the only 1/8 brand I've seen that has those center braces, I'm not really sure why they are there, I guess there must be more chassis flex there due to the "lightened" areas where they cut away. I'm thinking alloy top plates would stiffen it up enough so that we wouldn't even need those center braces. If i remove it then i could easily fit around a 19T pinion, which is what I was running with the Tekin 2000kv motor.



Mounted to the old style (non-lightened) mount insert - the new "lightened" insert only has 3mm holes and this motor only has 4mm holes, the old mount insert has both.

Future goodies are the Tang alloy plates and possibly the alloy rear chassis brace, not sure on that one yet.

Do you know the part number of the mount you used? Got the 1717 coming and am going to try this. Also, why no fan setup? Prob would let the ESC fan breathe a little better stuffed in there. I am going to change to an ET chassis. with the extra length I think I can move the ESC to the rear left where the nitro throttle relay would have been.

 

[RC_User]

Sounds like a perfect time to start disputing the charge if it was me.

True he could but that won't make them show up any faster. The sender has to fike the claim with dhl so it could be a pain. Hopefully they'll turn up! We all need them!

Do you know the part number of the mount you used? Got the 1717 coming and am going to try this. Also, why no fan setup? Prob would let the ESC fan breathe a little better stuffed in there. I am going to change to an ET chassis. with the extra length I think I can move the ESC to the rear left where the nitro throttle relay would have been.

No fan needed, the motor barely gets warm, the esc may be since it doesn't have much clearance.im gonna tweak it slightly to sit closer against the servo and give it a hair more room to breathe. Yes you can move the esc to that back corner on the ET chassis, I've seen a few folks do that.

 

[sniper34]

Part number for that motor mount?

 

[RC_User]

Part number for that motor mount?

https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5211-motor-mount-insert-aluminum-gun-metal-anodized/

If you can't find one you can just drill the holes out on the newer version

 

[sniper34]

Ok Thanks.

 

[Overkill]

Do you know the part number of the mount you used? Got the 1717 coming and am going to try this. Also, why no fan setup? Prob would let the ESC fan breathe a little better stuffed in there. I am going to change to an ET chassis. with the extra length I think I can move the ESC to the rear left where the nitro throttle relay would have been.

Tekno doesn't sell the ET motor mount insert by itself anymore for some reason, but you can find them on eBay with the whole ET motor mount bundle. There's more room on the receiver box side once you shave it off.

 

[RC_User]

Tekno doesn't sell the ET motor mount insert by itself anymore for some reason, but you can find them on eBay with the whole ET motor mount bundle. There's more room on the receiver box side once you shave it off.

i think I did have to actually buy the whole bundle on eBay from like dollarz hobbyz or something even a year and a half ago.

Keeping my fingers crossed on those aluminum plates!

i was able to start a web chat with amain and get an RMA for that m2c center brace. Pauly just mentioned that his needed some muscle to install too but his seemed to fit better than mine. Mine would not fit under the steering plate, withing having to loosen the steering post screws for the brace to fit under it. the brace sits up higher than the steering posts. problem then is tightening it down doesn't work without leaving a big gap over the posts. Stock brace fits like a glove, so i'm not sure what's up. Also an annoyance but non-issue with mine was the finish, it have permanent fingerprints and blotches on it. definitely rushed through mfg. Don't really care about the appearance but it added to the disappointment. I could have made it work but i decided to give an exchange a try first. if the replacement is the same fit then i'll do what it takes to make it work - file it down, cut if in half, whatever. Now i'll probably have to wait 3 weeks for another one to show up since they seem to be backordered again...

does anyone run an 8.4v servo? whatcha got?

 

[sniper34]

I did the brace when I built my ET. I had a prob left to right, did all to align it and finally loosened all the steering to get it to go. I talked to Mitch at m2c and he took the front off, steering and all, and slid it in that way. Changing my MT chassis to ET anyway so I'll try that. Should go with everything out!! Thanks for the tip on that mount.

 

[Pauly]

Didn't realize you bought yours from A-Main. I deal with M2C directly. Mitch is a good guy.

 

[RC_User]

Didn't realize you bought yours from A-Main. I deal with M2C directly. Mitch is a good guy.

Yeah amain... they supposedly have great customer service so I'll see what happens. I wouldn't have returned it if I had gotten consistent feedback from others but the fact that @Overkill said his first one fit much better than the other pretty much proves that I'm not crazy! At least not in that way...

 

[Cmbscx10]

Wholly cow. Gonna have to read this a few times. Way to much awesome in this. Reminds me of Overkill builds putting a V12 in a Honda Civic type build. Love overpowered stuff for sure and will be following.

On a side note. I learned something. In particular about the shocks. I can't recall anyone comparing the shocks in regards to tire size and your 100% right. No way my Losi 8T for example had this much travel. Thanks for that.

 

[RC_User]

Wholly cow. Gonna have to read this a few times. Way to much awesome in this. Reminds me of Overkill builds putting a V12 in a Honda Civic type build. Love overpowered stuff for sure and will be following.

On a side note. I learned something. In particular about the shocks. I can't recall anyone comparing the shocks in regards to tire size and your 100% right. No way my Losi 8T for example had this much travel. Thanks for that.

I'm actually glad that you mentioned that because the 8ight I wasn't totally sure about the travel, I've seen people fit the badlands on them but not the ~6.5 dia monster tires.
Lately I've been considering going up to 6s... it looks super fun to have that much power... also wish there was a sensored option in an oversized motor. I keep saying sensorless doesn't matter for bashing but it is actually really nice to have when you wanna go slow...

 

[Cmbscx10]

I'm actually glad that you mentioned that because the 8ight I wasn't totally sure about the travel, I've seen people fit the badlands on them but not the ~6.5 dia monster tires.
Lately I've been considering going up to 6s... it looks super fun to have that much power... also wish there was a sensored option in an oversized motor. I keep saying sensorless doesn't matter for bashing but it is actually really nice to have when you wanna go slow...

Agree my TA Rival tires on my MT410 are from my 8T. The shocks needed to be a minimum of 10mm longer. I had to limit them as to not pull out the rod end.

I can barely handle 4S with my skills no matter how much punch control or throttle pinger I use. 6S would be fun for sure but a little much for me in a SWB.

Yes, everything should be sensored IMO. My HW Quicrun is n my YetiXL was surprising smooth for a non Sensored ESC but still missed the slow stuff going from area to area. Sensored unfortunately would make a big ESC and motor too costly for the average user I think.

 

[RC_User]

Agree my TA Rival tires on my MT410 are from my 8T. The shocks needed to be a minimum of 10mm longer. I had to limit them as to not pull out the rod end.

I can barely handle 4S with my skills no matter how much punch control or throttle pinger I use. 6S would be fun for sure but a little much for me in a SWB.

Yes, everything should be sensored IMO. My HW Quicrun is n my YetiXL was surprising smooth for a non Sensored ESC but still missed the slow stuff going from area to area. Sensored unfortunately would make a big ESC and motor too costly for the average user I think.

I'm not so sure it would be too costly, considering you can get a sensored 4274 for under $75, even if it cost double that, that is still the same price as a castle or tekin!

 

[Cmbscx10]

I'm not so sure it would be too costly, considering you can get a sensored 4274 for under $75, even if it cost double that, that is still the same price as a castle or tekin!

True but I'm talking a sensored 1717 like you have or bigger can low kV and a Max8 or Max5 size ESC.