New ET48 build, basher, long can motor

[smirkracing]

Thanks to advice from many members here, and after many mishaps and errors, here’s my ET48 build with a TPPower 4050 motor, esc moved to the back, and receiver mover up over the plate above the steering posts.

I spent a lot of time on the wiring... early on I lost a battery pack when the leads touched the center diff and got chewed to pieces. I count myself lucky the leads didn’t touch and cause a fire.

 

[smirkracing]

Special thanks to Overkill. His threads here and on RCTech are basically the Bible for modding the ET48 to the moon. His vids are the reason I bought an ET48 (Tekno are you listening? Cut this guy a check already).

The ET48 is easily, hands-down the best vehicle I’ve ever owned by a large margin (I’ve had about 20 from all the major manufacturers, at all scales from 1/18 to 1/8, all off-road). Now that I have the ET, I’ve been selling off most of my other vehicles except some very specialized ones like my solid axle MT.

I only wish I’d followed Overkill’s footsteps earlier.

 

[Overkill]

Nice! Thank you sir

 

[2015GTRBE]

Enjoy it man, I’m finishing up mine but won’t have a motor like that.

 

[Slevin]

@Overkill definitely deserves props for a lot he has put into the ET48 platform. I feel like my ET is a copy of his...almost. Not quite but almost

 

[smirkracing]

Well, that didn’t take long. Every part of this build that could fail, did fail, in less than 1 full pack.

1. Receiver: the plate I made stayed put right over the steering posts, the automotive grade double-sided tape held just fine, but the receiver case itself split open after a jump. FAIL

2. Battery lead: That long battery lead, despite being tied down under the Velcro battery straps, managed to hit the spur gear when landing a big jump (maybe 8-10 feet high, onto grass). The spur then dragged the battery lead under the center diff cover and chewed it in half. FAIL

3. ESC: after another big jump, the entire ESC simply came off. The double sided tape seemed ok but I guess it had no real bond with the sticker on the bottom of the Castle ESC. I feel very lucky the receiver wire didn’t tear loose. FAIL

Every part of this build will have to be re-done, re-built, or re-designed.

So the fun begins...

 

[Chainsaw10]

Make a shelf on the inside the f the front shock tower to mount the esc. Use kydex or alumuinum. That’s what I did. You can eliminate about 100ft of wires

 

[smirkracing]

Chainsaw, thanks for the tip. Your builds are awesome and gave me a lot of ideas.

Do you have any more pics of your shelf? I’ve seen it in some if your threads but if you have any closeups showing it that would be cool.

Where do you put your receiver?

 

[Overkill]

This picture is the wide chassis but the ESC to battery wire arrangement would be the same and I've never had an issue with it. You do need to protect the balance wires though, I use a mini velcro strap. FYI, Steven Bond makes a spur guard.

Be sure to remove the sticker from the bottom of the ESC, since it's slick. I use 3M VHB 5952 tape and it works much better than the stuff you find at Home Depot, etc.

 

[2015GTRBE]

@Overkill definitely deserves props for a lot he has put into the ET48 platform. I feel like my ET is a copy of his...almost. Not quite but almost

That is very true, I’ve been following him on YouTube for a while, probably the reason I bought this truck.

To the OP, you can mount your ESC via screws depending on where you mount it, I mounted mine like this using the included HW mount provided.

 

[2015GTRBE]

Also, why didn’t you mount your receiver in the spot where the Nitro brake servo would go behind the battery?

You have your wires traveling too far back toward the front IMHO.

Edit: eh I guess that’s moot because the servo wire would then have to travel back vs the ESC traveling forward. One question, do you have 2 xt90 plugs that go from your battery to the ESC? Am I seeing that right? Running a powerful setup I’d probably recommend shortening up that connection and skipping what looks to be a bridge. You are more likely to suffer voltage drop I’d imagine or greater resistance.

 

[smirkracing]

It is a bridge as you guessed. That particular battery has an xt60 plug to I made an extension with xt90 on one side. As you noted it is way too long and in fact it got eaten by the spur.

So I make a spur guard out of a 2”x1” piece of lexan and I will also shorten the bridge way down. That pack is underpowered (6s 2800, had it lying around) so I mostly use a 6s 4500 mah gens ace which does have an xt90 plug.

Yeah I am still trying to figure out the ideal spot for the receiver to minimize the wire runs. Right now I am forced to use extensions which I dislike.

Chainsaw’s idea of putting the esc over the steering posts will result in the best wiring all around for the motor and the receiver wires. I am debating going in that direction.

 

[2015GTRBE]

You know, I’m looking at your setup and I disagree. First, if you flip the battery with wires backward you won’t need any bridge.

Is your servo wire long enough to run back behind the battery tray? If so I’d skip the shelf because its really not Neccesary to run that configuration. You can run the servo wire under the front drive shaft and under the battery tray so it’s not flopping around the chassis and have a fully functional setup where you don’t need to rig up any extra shelves or clutter. You also will have less turbulence running your receiver back there VS higher up in a spot that sees chassis flex.

I’m no expert, but I’d keep your chassis simple and functional.

A tray would also require longer screws, Lexan that is flexible and would be higher vibration (not a great material). If you must, cut a peice of clear plastic from the top of an RC screws box or tackle box etc, but purchasing aluminum sheet would be better if you own a dremel. Again, far more complex than is necessary IMHO.

I’m all about custom parts, I own 3 Dremels, but I don’t really get this plan.

 

[Chainsaw10]

My setup is overly complicated because I have alternate body mounts added into the whole assembly.
I just spent 5 minutes total to show how simple it can be to relocate your esc to the front shock tower.
Cut kydex to desired size with razor(score a few times,then bend and snap). Use a little butane torch to heat up the line you want to bend. You can probably even use a lighter. Then just drill two holes in kydex and tower for hardware to attach.
Easy Peasy.

 

[Chainsaw10]

I didn’t actually bolt this to the tower as you can see. I’m not using it...just made it quick to show.

 

[Chainsaw10]

Just brainstorming here...but you could do something like this. Bend the kydex at more of an angle. Leave the piece longer. Then there would be more clearance underneath. And the esc would be right in the cab area of the body. The kydex will also flex some on impacts acting as a shock absorber, protecting the esc. Note that there is thicker kydex axailable that will barely flex at all if you want.

 

[2015GTRBE]

Just brainstorming here...but you could do something like this. Bend the kydex at more of an angle. Leave the piece longer. Then there would be more clearance underneath. And the esc would be right in the cab area of the body. The kydex will also flex some on impacts acting as a shock absorber, protecting the esc. Note that there is thicker kydex axailable that will barely flex at all if you want. View attachment 2054View attachment 2055

With all due respect (and Keep in mind YOUR situation/ truck/setup is different than his maybe) you are mounting an ESC on that plank of Kydex where he is looking to mount a receiver. Me personally would never put that much weight so high, kinda negates having a low CG truggy. Might as well buy a Savage Flux XL.

My main point to him was not that it is difficult to fab up a mount, but not everyone has a Kydex drawer in there garage where it’s 5 mins one and done. Most people like myself would have to purchase it, cut it, drill it etc.

Why not just utilize the empty rear servo location and call it a day? If it is also about running a huge ESC then just do like overkill and get that M2C wide chassis and keep your weight down low where it belongs.

$599.00 kit
$2-300.00 + ESC/motor
$80-160.00 batteries
$2-600.00 TX/RX
Why not go the distance? I think most here will make this truck their dream basher and sell the arrmas, Prolines and Traxxas etc. to focus on this one and make it bomb proof.

Just sayin

 

[Chainsaw10]

Why not put the receiver in the receiver box.....that’s why it’s called the...receiver box.
We are not racing....and an esc weighs very little. Moving it up a little higher is meaningless for a basher. It ain’t gonna make a bit of difference. None. Zero.
Mounting an esc a couple inches higher does not turn a truggy into savage flux....that’s simply an unintelligent statement(with all due respect...)
I personally spend a big chunk of money on a lot of rc’s. But I’m not spending $200, or whatever the price is, on a wide chassis when there’s a much simpler cheaper solution.
If anything, that ton of extra weight from that huge chassis will weigh the truck down... and wear and tear other components far more than just raising an esc up a teeny bit. I think the m2c chassis is nearly double the weight of stock chassis( Correct me if I’m wrong)
Making these things heavier does not make them more bombproof...it makes them less bombproof. You will have more diff, driveshaft and other damage more rapidly with the added weight.

Maybe if I were racing at a high level I’d think differently about those things that are completely insignificant to someone just bashing around.

If I gave you two fully built identical truggies....except one had an esc mounted on the chassis, and the other had an esc mounted on the front tower. I let you drive them and didn’t let you look under the hood. You would NOT be able to tell me which was which.

Just sayin(smiley face negates all previous snotty comments)

 

[2015GTRBE]

Hey man, I’m not a pro racer in the least and I am not bashing your setup or mindset.

I agree... receiver in the receiver box, but many here (like you) run these long can monster motors that are awesome and need more space. Me, I’m more simple, I’m ok with “normal” motors and ESCs.

That said, I also agree about adding weight does not equal stronger, if anything the heavier the RC, the easier it breaks due to simple physics. I will also say that I own old school MTs like a Savage Flux, and I absolutely can tell higher/ lower COG. It’s not crazy and ESC May be light to hold, in the scale of RC it’s like adding 200 pounds to the roof of a car, you will notice. On that same note, my point is that WE are bashing a high end race truggy, why not try to keep that racing design in tact?

At the end of the day, I don’t want to ruin this guys thread, it’s rude and ultimately he at least has our opinion to take in and do what he pleases to his truck. These are toy cars after all.

I do want to know why the Kydex is popping a boner in the last pic you had but let’s leave that for another thread jk.

 

[Chainsaw10]

An esc mounted on the front tower is not anywhere near comparable to 200 pounds on the roof of a car. Absolutely not. It’s insignificant for a basher. Maybe a pro racer would see a half second difference on a lap.