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Recommendations - Ditching Arrma, ET48 2.0 preordered for Basher Build

QuarantineRC

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Got back into RC at the beginning of Covid, ended up with a Kraton, Losi Tenacity DB Pro, and built an LC Racing EMB-T.
$100's sunk into the Kraton in small upgrades, repairs, etc. and started looking for a better option.

It has been great fun, but after building the EMB, realized benefits of building somethign up from the ground, kept landing back on Tekno.
Saw the 2.0 platform for NB/EB and figured Id wait for it to trickle down to MT or ET, thought some of the features would translate nicely to a good backyard basher.

Plan to sell the Kraton on... probably.
Preordered the ET48 2.0 Kit from A-Main today.

CURRENT PARTS:
Servo
: Racerstar CLS7346HV - Trying a Banggood special (already have a couple aluminum horns)
Tires: dBoots Backflip 6s' - I'm pretty sold on these, love them on Kraton and Outcast
ESC: I have a Firma 150 with only a few batteries through it probably will reuse (currently all electronics are Spektrum)
Batteries: All Spektrum batteries, all 3/6s 50-100C


PENDING PARTS:
Motor
: Was thinking of sticking with Spektrum, get the Firma 2050 motor with heatsink and fan. Has held up well in kraton, but open to suggestions
Rx: Spektrum RX6100AT - Has been reliable in the other cars, has telemetry and smart whatever the heck that i dont use atm but...
Spur Gear: Tekno Hardened Steel spur gear, doesnt look like they make a lightened one yet.
Pinion: Tekno M5 Hardened mod1 16t - seems like a good place to start
Wheel Hubs: TKR5071C - lightened +2mm offset - read the offsets are necessary for MT wheels?
Diff Weight: Kraton I have been putting in 500-1mil, or earplugs in Center, 100 - 300 F/R weights. Seems far heavier than what EB/ET comes with and recommends.

Hoping to get recommendations on anything might be missing, or overlooking.
General suggestions are also welcomed.

Thanks!
 

EngenZerO

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I plan on setting up my ET48 2.0 as a basher. So far list your sounds good.

This is what I go narrowed down for my build:

Protek 170TBL or 370TBL (have one in my MT410)
Castle MMX w 1515 2200kv motor.

Upgrades from Tekno
Hardened Steel Spur, 18T Pinion, Aluminum Servo Horn, +2mm hex, TiNi shafts, and upgraded Wheel Nuts.

Planning on running Backflip 4s wheels. Diffs fluids I’m leaning towards 60-100-30. Shock oil may bump up a little and run them as an emulsion build.
 

NO02

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Build Thread Contributor
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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Got back into RC at the beginning of Covid, ended up with a Kraton, Losi Tenacity DB Pro, and built an LC Racing EMB-T.
$100's sunk into the Kraton in small upgrades, repairs, etc. and started looking for a better option.

It has been great fun, but after building the EMB, realized benefits of building somethign up from the ground, kept landing back on Tekno.
Saw the 2.0 platform for NB/EB and figured Id wait for it to trickle down to MT or ET, thought some of the features would translate nicely to a good backyard basher.

Plan to sell the Kraton on... probably.
Preordered the ET48 2.0 Kit from A-Main today.

CURRENT PARTS:
Servo
: Racerstar CLS7346HV - Trying a Banggood special (already have a couple aluminum horns)
Tires: dBoots Backflip 6s' - I'm pretty sold on these, love them on Kraton and Outcast
ESC: I have a Firma 150 with only a few batteries through it probably will reuse (currently all electronics are Spektrum)
Batteries: All Spektrum batteries, all 3/6s 50-100C


PENDING PARTS:
Motor
: Was thinking of sticking with Spektrum, get the Firma 2050 motor with heatsink and fan. Has held up well in kraton, but open to suggestions
Rx: Spektrum RX6100AT - Has been reliable in the other cars, has telemetry and smart whatever the heck that i dont use atm but...
Spur Gear: Tekno Hardened Steel spur gear, doesnt look like they make a lightened one yet.
Pinion: Tekno M5 Hardened mod1 16t - seems like a good place to start
Wheel Hubs: TKR5071C - lightened +2mm offset - read the offsets are necessary for MT wheels?
Diff Weight: Kraton I have been putting in 500-1mil, or earplugs in Center, 100 - 300 F/R weights. Seems far heavier than what EB/ET comes with and recommends.

Hoping to get recommendations on anything might be missing, or overlooking.
General suggestions are also welcomed.

Thanks!
Welcome !

I had two EMB cars. A SWB and a LWB that I converted to all of the cars except the rally. Great platform.

As far as the ET 2.0 for bashing:
It should be close to ready in its kit form. The ET48.3 required next to nothing for bashing. Like the ET48.3, the 2.0 will likely need heavier springs/shock oil for big jumps and heavier diff fluid in the center. I'm sure that chassis braces will also be necessary for larger jumps as they were needed for the ET.3

I've got an MMX8s ESC and a 4092 1650kV motor ready to go into mine. Should be fun overpowering it on 6s using a long can motor.
 

QuarantineRC

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Thanks!
Any suggestion on Pinion size for a 2050KV motor? Not sure on the final drive ratios on the Tekno's but it seems like I have seen 16t on a bunch.

Just ordered the motor and backflip 6s'.

Not much huge jumping, may try out the stock springs first see how it goes but probably use some heavier oil.

Any benefit for wheel nuts or just bling?
 

EngenZerO

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Pinion size can vary depending on conditions, tire size, weight, etc. I think 16t is safe start point and probably can go up from there if you need more craziness. I don’t know how much bigger the 6s backflips are compared to 4s but I assume that will be what dictates overall pinion size at the end.

I run a heavier oil and orange springs on the mt410 but my rig is heavily modified - m2c chassis, towers, bracing and m3 aluminum battery box and skid.

Wheel nuts are bling but I could be wrong they may have more bite than kit.
 

Nicochau

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Location
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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Pinion size can vary depending on conditions, tire size, weight, etc. I think 16t is safe start point and probably can go up from there if you need more craziness. I don’t know how much bigger the 6s backflips are compared to 4s but I assume that will be what dictates overall pinion size at the end.

I run a heavier oil and orange springs on the mt410 but my rig is heavily modified - m2c chassis, towers, bracing and m3 aluminum battery box and skid.

Wheel nuts are bling but I could be wrong they may have more bite than kit.
6s backflips are huge, 172mm tall
4s backflips are 154mm tall

set the shocks on further outside hole both on the tower and the arm and it will provide you a significantly firmer ride with the same springs.
 

QuarantineRC

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Thanks for the heads up, ill take the +2 offets off the list.
Added the Aluminum swaybar collars.

Looking for some way to protect top of the shocks/towers since they are exposed.
Might rig something up from HDPE, or buy one for another model and retrofit for a Cap on top that's replaceable.
 

muttb0ne

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+1 on the upgraded aluminum servo arm. This, IMO, is the very FIRST thing to upgrade, before you even run the vehicle. Everyone here will tell you the stock plastic arm in the kit will strip almost right away. The aluminum from Tekno is perfect, an I've yet to have an issue with either one in my MT or EB.
 

QuarantineRC

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Anyone know about rear A-Arm mudguards? If any exist yet that will fit?

Was looking at T-bone bumpers, not sure if bolt pattern has changed for the 2.0's?
 

muttb0ne

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Seems to me I've come across a forum for this very thing, but can't find at the moment.

In any case, on the buggies/truggies in the past where I thought I needed them, I simply cut a few pieces out of leftover lexan from cutting bodies an used a heatgun to bend where I needed an drilled some holes.
 

Ifti

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Anyone know about rear A-Arm mudguards? If any exist yet that will fit?

Was looking at T-bone bumpers, not sure if bolt pattern has changed for the 2.0's?

Have seen these done before, but why do you nee them?
Shocks have boots to protect the shafts from debris etc - what else on the arm are you looking to protect??

Im not saying its wrong - Im just genuinely curious as to the benefits?
 

QuarantineRC

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I have found they generally help keeping dirt/debris out of the rear CVD's/outdrives and really help preventing grass, wiry vines/roots etc. that the front wheels kick up from wrapping around the rear shafts.
Bash in backyard, and powerlines etc. so have had loads of grass ans such build up around those in the past.
Not a necessity for sure, but an extra level of protection.
Was thinking of cutting some 1mm carbon, or lexan myself jsut curious if there was an off the shelf available yet.
 

QuarantineRC

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Have seen these done before, but why do you nee them?
Shocks have boots to protect the shafts from debris etc - what else on the arm are you looking to protect??

Im not saying its wrong - Im just genuinely curious as to the benefits?
Ifti, Watching all your build videos BTW, fantastic job.
 

NO02

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Build Thread Contributor
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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Have seen these done before, but why do you nee them?
Shocks have boots to protect the shafts from debris etc - what else on the arm are you looking to protect??

Im not saying its wrong - Im just genuinely curious as to the benefits?
The boots rip really easily. Mine didn’t last 5 runs.

I use shock covers now but will also add TBR mudguards.
 

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SHWA

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
Driving Style
Basher
Very jealous as mine has not come yet.
 

QuarantineRC

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All built just need to paint the body.

Assuming I got a defective servo, but really dont know. This thing has only about an 80deg. throw from the receiver, I can move it 180 without power though.

Fairly slow, and VERY underpowered. I cant even turn around in a 2 lane street...
Confirmed, its not the ServoSaver being loose, the servo just wont hold the tires turned.

I know, big tires, but I bought some Duratax X-Cons also and same behavior.

Quick vid that demonstrates what i mean a bit.


Any suggestions on best servo on 6V? Really wish these Firma 150's had an adjustable BEC.
 

Homey

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Promodeler DS630BLHV. If u can, get a small 2S lipo to run it and bypass the esc. A little bit of a hassle but massive improvement in steering. It’s comical how powerful this runs. U gonna need a y-harness. Can be purchased on promodeler site or amain or u can build it yourself. Just an idea for the folks who like to tinker
 

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