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I've been really happy with my ET48 2.0, but I want to build another Tekno kit for racing or as a basher?

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PrimaRC

Well-known member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
242
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152
Location
South Coast NSW, Australia
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
Driving Style
Basher
What are your thoughts on building a second Tekno ET48 2.0 as a basher so I can keep my Race prep one dedicated for that, or should I build an ET410 as a second race car?

I'm not sure if there is any class for this in Australia and I'm worried about what tyres they use?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Or is a MT410 a better option on track as well as a basher?

Here is a few shots of my ET48 2.0 with LP Backflips mounted...
 

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What are your thoughts on building a second Tekno ET48 2.0 as a basher so I can keep my Race prep one dedicated for that, or should I build an ET410 as a second race car?

I'm not sure if there is any class for this in Australia and I'm worried about what tyres they use?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Or is a MT410 a better option on track as well as a basher?

Here is a few shots of my ET48 2.0 with LP Backflips mounted...
That’s the question for you do you want 2 race rigs or a racer and a basher????

is there a track and or class to run a 1/10 scale truggy and or do you have a close Basher spot to use

but if you do want a basher they do call the mt410 the basher king for a good reason. I personally don’t have one but my et48 bashes very good IMO. And would be nice to have the came platform for parts compatibility
 
That’s the question for you do you want 2 race rigs or a racer and a basher????

is there a track and or class to run a 1/10 scale truggy and or do you have a close Basher spot to use

but if you do want a basher they do call the mt410 the basher king for a good reason. I personally don’t have one but my et48 bashes very good IMO. And would be nice to have the came platform for parts compatibility
Yeah you have the same thought process as me, I have loads of bashers, I live near mostly bash spots, but I travel for racing with my dad, it's only casual so the class is ok, we race buggy and truggy together if there is not enough of each.

I really like the idea of the cars being compatible, so I was thinking of getting the buggy, but I have a few buggys, one is my nitro Serpent, I really like that car and I have a Losi that is setup as an e-buggy.

The ET410.2 appeals to me because I've really enjoyed bashing my Arrma Big Rock Crew Cab and the size is really cool. I can also drive it in my backyard, where I can set-up a track layout when I want to. So the MT410 also appeals to me in that way.

Unfortunately we are in Lockdown at the moment and our last race was cancelled the night before due to it. I'm thinking of getting the kit now so I can build it while locked down.

I'm a little confused about what tyres the ET410.2 uses as they don't seem a common size?

I have seen some guys here racing their MT410 is that another option that would make a good cross over?

Thank you very much for your help.
 
I wanted a mt410 also after building the et48 2.0 and eb48 2.0 but decided against it and went with a second et48 2.0 because of parts compatibility plus the 2.0 is a fresh platform and will be around for quite a while. I have no interest in 1/10 scale not very good for a Basher if racing don’t pan out for you.
 
I wanted a mt410 also after building the et48 2.0 and eb48 2.0 but decided against it and went with a second et48 2.0 because of parts compatibility plus the 2.0 is a fresh platform and will be around for quite a while. I have no interest in 1/10 scale not very good for a Basher if racing don’t pan out for you.
I was thinking the same way as you just mentioned, I've just order a second et48 2.0, haha.
 
It should arrive by Wednesday or Thursday, I'll have something to do while in Lockdown. I need to figure out what servo I'll use this time, I really can't spend any money on this build untill I sell a few things, it might have an ebay servo in it for a few weeks.

Thanks everyone for your help.
 
I can't get over how ugly it is. Even with that cool paint job, it's so bad.
 
I can't get over how ugly it is. Even with that cool paint job, it's so bad.

I had hoped the design would grow on me, but everyone who sees my truck says the same about how the body shape isn't very nice. As its a basher I'm not bothered about aerodynamics and downforce etc, so will look to replace it at some point......
 
I had hoped the design would grow on me, but everyone who sees my truck says the same about how the body shape isn't very nice. As its a basher I'm not bothered about aerodynamics and downforce etc, so will look to replace it at some point......
I like Volvo's and Land Rover Defender's the box shape is something I like, haha.
 
New Kit arrived today, but I'm going to use the one I've already built and convert it to the basher, I've started to install the Castle system again and I'll build the new kit diffs and shocks with basher oils.

I'm thinking of using 60k in the front 100k in the center and 30 in the rear for the diffs.

I was thinking of going for a slightly heavier set up in the shocks, so I'm thinking maybe around 80w front 55w rear?

Any thoughts on this would be really appreciated thank you.

I will mostly running 4s. So weight isn't going to be extreme, but the Castle 1520 and mmx8s weigh a bit more than my hobbywing system.
 
New Kit arrived today, but I'm going to use the one I've already built and convert it to the basher, I've started to install the Castle system again and I'll build the new kit diffs and shocks with basher oils.

I'm thinking of using 60k in the front 100k in the center and 30 in the rear for the diffs.

I was thinking of going for a slightly heavier set up in the shocks, so I'm thinking maybe around 80w front 55w rear?

Any thoughts on this would be really appreciated thank you.

I will mostly running 4s. So weight isn't going to be extreme, but the Castle 1520 and mmx8s weigh a bit more than my hobbywing system.
I'm running 100kF/200kC/60kR and it runs good, doesn't steer super sharp though. CD gets up to 180F-190F using a steel cup. 100K in the center should be great on 4s, not so much 6s.

As for shock oils, I started with orange springs F/R and 900cstF/800cstR. My truck is pretty heavy so it still feels a bit light. Might work great for you.
 
I'm running 100kF/200kC/60kR and it runs good, doesn't steer super sharp though. CD gets up to 180F-190F using a steel cup. 100K in the center should be great on 4s, not so much 6s.

As for shock oils, I started with orange springs F/R and 900cstF/800cstR. My truck is pretty heavy so it still feels a bit light. Might work great for you.
Thanks a lot for the info I'll see what happens, I don't like not being able to turn. I tend to not bash much different to how I would drive on a track anyway so I never usually need a super heavy centre, the shocks I've got no idea what they will be like, but I'll set it up and make charges as required.
 
Got the new shocks and diffs built for bashing, now they are going to be transplanted into the race build, should be done tomorrow with the Castle system back in and ready to rip!

I'll build up the second kit as a race build and use the shocks and diffs from my already completed car. We won't be racing again for a while due to covid, so I'll take my time with it.

I hope these fluids will work out okay, I think it will be fun to drive anyway, plus I can always change things round if I need.

It would be awesome to have a spare set of diffs and shocks to be able to swap in and out whenever I wanted to test out something.

IMG_20210701_211300_985.jpg
 
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It would be awesome to have a spare set of diffs and shocks to be able to swap in and out whenever I wanted to test out something.

And this is where it all starts, my friends.......
No more spare money for this guy - it's all gonna go soon!!! lol
 
And this is where it all starts, my friends.......
No more spare money for this guy - it's all gonna go soon!!! lol
It's already gone, haha. That was long before I even got a Tekno. My other RC's had me broke, at least with these I feel like they don't need many upgrades?
 
One of the best changes I did right away for non track use was orange springs
Thank you for the feedback, what was the main reason you felt you needed the change?

I'm getting some rear chassis bounce on the landings off the bigger jumps. I was looking at the orange springs last night, thinking it might help, the fronts aren't in stock down here in Australia, I can only get the rears.

I was going to try and move the rear shock position to the inside hole on the arm, to see if that gives me the increase in stiffness I want? I also think I went too light on my rear shock oil.
 
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So I ran the converted car again and did some testing of the pinion gearing, first I ran it with a 17t it was pretty slow, so I went to a 22t and that seems just right, I'll have to wait and see how it performs on a large bashing spot, but I'm happy with the tests here is a video of the speed testing.

 

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