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Yet another ET48 2.0 build thread

PrimaRC

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  2. ET48
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Hey everybody, I thought I'd try and document my ET48 2.0 build. Step 1) unboxing

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Ifti

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What are your plans for the truck?? Track/racing, or general bashing?
If its the latter it may be an idea to consider thicker diff oil?......
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
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How are you planning on relocating the ESC?

I mounted mine on the battery side of the chassis using an 1/8" Nylon plate with 3 holes drilled and countersunk in the chassis to secure the plate. You could also use the existing holes for the receiver box and mount the ESC right behind the motor. I might try that as it'll be better balanced left to right.

For 6s you'll definitely need heavier fluids. I'm running 100kF/500kC/60kR to avoid overheating the center diff.
 

PrimaRC

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What are your plans for the truck?? Track/racing, or general bashing?
If its the latter it may be an idea to consider thicker diff oil?......

Definitely interested to see how that motor and servo combo fits.

How are you planning on relocating the ESC?

I mounted mine on the battery side of the chassis using an 1/8" Nylon plate with 3 holes drilled and countersunk in the chassis to secure the plate. You could also use the existing holes for the receiver box and mount the ESC right behind the motor. I might try that as it'll be better balanced left to right.

For 6s you'll definitely need heavier fluids. I'm running 100kF/500kC/60kR to avoid overheating the center diff.
I was planning to build the car stock to start with and use it on a track to start with. I just wanted to see how it drives out of the box. I race/play around on a casual open to the public track with my Dad when I go and visit. I'm hoping to have this built within a couple of weeks so I can drive it on my next visit.

I was thinking about going thicker to begin with, but it is an easy change before I start to bash the car.

The motor and esc are on the larger side, if I was only going to race it I would have installed an Xerun Xr8 combo, but because I plan on making this my go to Basher I thought I better get something with a little more grunt and didn't want to come up against any heat issues.

I'm expecting that I'll mostly be running 4s as I don't want to add any extra weight on top of the heavy motor, but of course I'll be trying it out on 6s. I have a brand new set of Backflip LPs destined for this car and of course I'll be running race tyres at the track.

I will try and mount the esc behind the motor if I can, this is my first Tekno so I don't really have the knowledge of the way things go together. Coming from Arrma cars mostly they have a fair bit of space for long can motors.

Thanks Guys for the great advice and help, I really appreciate it!

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PrimaRC

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  2. ET48
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Got the front end done now too, even after I put the shock tower on the wrong side of the diff case to start with. I shouldn't have been building so late.

I'm so impressed with this kit, the quality of the parts, the fit and finish is excellent.
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PrimaRC

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  2. ET48
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Basher
I'm really happy with the way these kits are designed, the parts feel really well thought out. The gearbox housing material is extremely tough, even with chapstick on the threads the screws are hard to get in. I'm glad the hardware is top notch or I would be worried about the screws snapping.
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PrimaRC

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  2. ET48
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PrimaRC

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  2. ET48
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Basher
So I've come up against a couple of issues I hadn't thought of, the first is my battery packs, I only have 2 batteries that fit in the tray, the rest are way too long. What are people doing to fit longer packs in these truggys?

The second is the steering servo, I can't get this thing parallel as per the manual, I've had to use so much sub trim and the outside hole on the aluminum servo horn to get anywhere near enough turn in the left hand side. I tried extending and shortening the steering connecting rod and different positions on the spline, but it won't work nicely without a stack of left subtrim?

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PrimaRC

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  2. ET48
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It's so close now, I had to play around getting the esc and motor in, I hope it's worth it. I kind of think I'd have been better off just installing my Xr8 Plus Combo, but we'll see, the Castle system is really nice when it's set up right.

Now I just need to sort out how to fit my longer battery packs?

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Ifti

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I like the way you've route the motor wires they don't go near the pinion ;)

Did you get the servo horn/parallel issue sorted??
 

PrimaRC

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  2. ET48
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Basher
I like the way you've route the motor wires they don't go near the pinion ;)

Did you get the servo horn/parallel issue sorted??
Thanks a lot for reading this thread, I appreciate your comments also.

Not really I've got full articulation on the servo now, but it isn't as the manual describes? I don't like having to use sub trim, but I guess that's what it's for and I can get full lock without any binding.

I'm hoping to do a simple test run tomorrow, I'll see how it performs then.

The toe out looks a little excessive at the moment I'll have to measure it also.
 
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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
The way I setup my Tekno steering: (I also dislike subtrim and work on reducing it)
  1. Power your servo and center it
  2. Extend the arm that connects the servo horn to the servo saver until the ackerman (TKR8100B) is centered under the steering plate (TKR9104)
  3. Check the end points, they should be more or less symmetrical
  4. From there I work on the links to setup camber, toe and to make sure your truck drives straight
  5. Put the tires on and set end points on the remote. Don’t go too far, it will harm your servo. Ideally, give yourself a few percents of margin. Also, with suspension articulation you should notice that the truck is prone to bind more in compression. So I like to give a bit of room so that it actually never binds over the course of full articulation of the suspension.
  6. You are good to go
Don’t over think the parallel arms thing. Based on pics, your good.

I hear the new truggy has tons of steering (unlike the .3), so you should be good with my slightly more conservative approach.
 

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