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Overpowered ET48 2.0 Build

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Here's my overpowered ET 2.0

ET2.0 Front.jpg


Castle MMX8s ESC. Repurposed 40mm server fan.
655ADABE-CC4A-4AD4-8157-9C7E3D526342.jpeg


TPpower 4070 1520kV motor. 40x107mm dimensions. Purchased with the M3 threaded mount.
43FFC72C-71BC-44ED-AE7F-90AF844B4957.jpeg


MKS HBL550 Servo. Tekno aluminum servo horn - requires a small M2.5 shim to clear the MKS servo.
364DC34B-DF5D-4543-B15A-3D46CAB388E9.jpeg


Turnigy Graphene 5000mAh 6s 75C LiPo.
B9F75635-1775-4C50-B684-1F67AA6A3FF4.jpeg


Yeah Racing Dual Fan heatsink. Yeah Racing 30mm aluminum case fans. All of the fans, including the ESC fan, are powered by the receiver. Using a 3-1 JST lead and a JST to Futaba lead to plug into the receiver.
55E8FC37-A164-48F4-B1B3-06A906B6967A.jpeg


I like to use a silicone pad to conduct heat from the motor to the heatsink more efficiently.
9510DA40-21E9-4CEE-889E-71608040C517.jpeg


This 12"x12" sheet of Nylon 6/6 was super useful. It's abrasion and impact resistant, looks like the same stuff that T-bone uses for their bumpers. I made front/rear bumpers, ESC mounting plate and a battery guard and still have some left over.
AFDFBE2C-5F12-40AC-AE1D-24BA214528E4.jpeg


T-Bone Racing 1/8 Truggy Wheelie Bar for wheelie control. Bolted into the rear bumper.
5E343C83-D3FA-4912-9F8E-B6B82D195230.jpeg


Battery Guard. Bolts in line with the battery tray piece. Using the center strap as well.
738499F1-C416-49B9-B8E1-EE728F01E53C.jpeg

FAAB728A-AF09-4DDA-B041-E560D223A686.jpeg


I drilled and countersunk 5 holes in the chassis to accommodate the ESC mounting plate and a wire guide.
D94BE62E-1CA4-48CE-8A96-6F04E9ACF01B.jpeg


Wire guide is just two M3 flathead screws, two M3 locknuts, two M3 spacers and a small plastic plate.
869C1FAD-7EF7-4406-9EDA-281E1C86D0D3.jpeg


Proline Thumbwasher kit. Very easy to install and super convenient.
E752033C-FA8D-4431-B8B4-374A490F68F2.jpeg


Yokomo 8mmx11mm shim kit for the hexes.
52A46323-9F56-4484-B4E6-2C2ECEB319EB.jpeg


M3x6mm screws in place of the set screws in the castor blocks.
6B62A775-19E5-4C56-950D-89A4996A5AF5.jpeg



Leadfinger Racing Strife body for the NT48.3. RPM skid plates for the x-maxx.
EB13F8CC-613B-4164-82E9-A767C678A66D.jpeg


Strapped dBoots Backflips LPs. Using 200lb rated kevlar kite line. I dremeled a section out of the center tread line. Two loops per row. I double knot and use CA glue on the knots.
29E4C603-6D67-48BD-B826-47AE0C3CC7F1.jpeg


This is the line I use. 100 feet was enough for a set of backflip LPs and backflip 6s tires.
8100EC40-668A-4DCA-832C-62F275A4D0F8.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Type1

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Here's my overpowered ET 2.0

View attachment 6749

Castle MMX8s ESC. Repurposed 40mm server fan.


TPpower 4070 1520kV


MKS HBL550 Servo. Tekno aluminum servo horn - requires a small M2.5 shim to clear the MKS servo.


Turnigy Graphene 5000mAh 6s 75C LiPo.


Yeah Racing Dual Fan heatsink. Yeah Racing 30mm aluminum case fans.


I like to use a silicone pad to conduct heat from the motor to the heatsink more efficiently.


Proline Thumbwasher kit.


Yokomo 8mmx11mm shim kit for the hexes.


M3x6mm screws in place of the set screws in the castor blocks.


This 12"x12" sheet of Nylon 6/6 was super useful. I used it to make the ESC mount, a battery guard and front/rear bumpers.


T-Bone Racing 1/8 Wheelie Bar.


Leadfinger Racing Strife body for the NT48.3. RPM skid plates for the x-maxx.


Strapped dBoots Backflips (4s and 6s). Using 200lb rated kevlar kite line. I dremeled a section out of the center tread line.


Tekno High downforce wing. M2C wing buttons. Installed with stainless screws.
Nice build, any pics of the back. How you did the pins of the body, looks like you have some type of screw
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
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Tekno high downforce black wing. I dremeled the wing so it could clear the shocks. M2C Wing buttons.
C14381B3-E5B7-474C-B38E-1BA25A406827.jpeg


Orange loctite and knurled set screws throughout the drivetrain for extra security.
CAA811CD-F997-4A07-BC9F-5BADAD1F9A78.jpeg


Steel Spur
66CF9CB1-C9DC-4367-AC92-0796B6CB205E.jpeg





78548E14-2758-4C31-B95B-FAA7922E5243.jpeg
92C9E37D-4E76-41B4-B674-22A058502664.jpeg
D52FFD87-0773-431A-A57C-12B292066980.jpeg
B6D45737-AC82-427B-804F-4D76AA00248A.jpeg
5EFDB642-47EA-49B9-BF88-F4D5298F8938.jpeg
89290A88-F046-4111-A1AF-B58AD2C10360.jpeg
E70F5C9A-B062-45F2-BC0B-F3201ECE56D6.jpeg


Geared 25/44 for 85mph using bacfklip LPs.
 
Last edited:

Savoy49

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Tekno RC's
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Sick build. Nice work.
 

smirkracing

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Tekno RC's
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  3. ET48
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Totally incredible. Can we get some specs? What's the weight fully loaded with everything? Speeds & temps?

I bought that battery (after seeing it one of your prior threads) but it does not fit between the battery holders on my EB2.0. I think those battery holders are identical between the EB and the ET. Did you have to do anything to help the battery fit properly on the front end (i.e. near the steering links)? You did a nice custom job on the back end. Does the battery sit flat?

I always wonder whether such huge motors will cause the motor mount to fail on a bad landing (i.e. taco-ing into the ground, let's say). Do you have any problems?

Totally amazing build!
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Totally incredible. Can we get some specs? What's the weight fully loaded with everything? Speeds & temps?

I bought that battery (after seeing it one of your prior threads) but it does not fit between the battery holders on my EB2.0. I think those battery holders are identical between the EB and the ET. Did you have to do anything to help the battery fit properly on the front end (i.e. near the steering links)? You did a nice custom job on the back end. Does the battery sit flat?

I always wonder whether such huge motors will cause the motor mount to fail on a bad landing (i.e. taco-ing into the ground, let's say). Do you have any problems?

Totally amazing build!
Thanks man!

It weighs 13.2 lbs fully loaded. It's geared for 85mph on 6s, 1520kV, 25/44 gearing, dboots LP bacfklips. I haven't done a speed run but I'll likely strap an old phone to it at some point and see where it tops off. I've been running a different motor for some time. A 1650kV Rocket RC 4092 sized motor. It made great power but ran pretty warm (180F after a hard pack, 18/44 gearing, 6s backflips) so I decided to switch to the longer TP4070. Haven't tested it yet but it should run cooler with the same gearing/tires.

4092 motor pictured
F141B7DC-6636-4573-AC3B-E04E791E6BA2.jpeg


I sort of just squished in. It's a really tight fit. The guard just lifts the battery up and protects it from the center diff outdrive. It doesn't sit flat anymore but I could remake the guard to have the battery sit flat. It was super easy to make. Nylon sheets are very useful. No modding near the front.
B21F485E-5491-438D-9AA7-4111219FAC38.jpeg


With long enough motors, like this one, you do need to add some support in the rear for the reason you describe. I'll likely use a couple of 40mm diameter O-rings placed on the rear of the can, a trick that worked with the ET48.3.
 

PrimaRC

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Tekno RC's
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Thanks man!

It weighs 13.2 lbs fully loaded. It's geared for 85mph on 6s, 1520kV, 25/44 gearing, dboots LP bacfklips. I haven't done a speed run but I'll likely strap an old phone to it at some point and see where it tops off. I've been running a different motor for some time. A 1650kV Rocket RC 4092 sized motor. It made great power but ran pretty warm (180F after a hard pack, 18/44 gearing, 6s backflips) so I decided to switch to the longer TP4070. Haven't tested it yet but it should run cooler with the same gearing/tires.

4092 motor pictured View attachment 6784

I sort of just squished in. It's a really tight fit. The guard just lifts the battery up and protects it from the center diff outdrive. It doesn't sit flat anymore but I could remake the guard to have the battery sit flat. It was super easy to make. Nylon sheets are very useful. No modding near the front.
View attachment 6783

With long enough motors, like this one, you do need to add some support in the rear for the reason you describe. I'll likely use a couple of 40mm diameter O-rings placed on the rear of the can, a trick that worked with the ET48.3.
Have you got any videos of this posted up on YouTube?
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
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Basher
Did I see a shot with an m2c chassis brace installed on this car? Do the ET48.3 braces fit directly? Great looking build.
Thanks man! There's no there's no aftermarket braces out for the 2.0 platform yet.

I did try to fit the M2C V2 Mega Brace for the Mt410. The steering plate hole lines up and only the rearmost bottom hole lines up. The battery tray pieces don't fit with the V2 mega brace and the center driveshaft doesn't line up. Top rear hole also doesn’t line up. So the old platform braces definitely don't fit.
60DE99AE-EDEE-4404-9272-48C30FEB78D8.jpeg
04C34103-8E4C-4E77-8A43-EF6613B273F2.jpeg
CBA480D8-DB4C-48AB-AAD9-A11E23B6F576.jpeg

D27656A9-9515-4C64-87A2-1522016AEDA9.jpeg


The .3/.4 center differential definitely does fit though. Left is 2.0 diff, right is an MT410 diff with a steel diff case and stainless screws. Both have 44t steel spur gears. Note the old outdrives have a flat edge.
D9369E55-00AC-4846-B98A-8A1AFC596913.jpeg

7F46F229-12A6-4479-9A5C-EFAA4BD756B4.jpeg


Driveshafts are also the same length end to end. 2.0 driveshaft is about 1.5mm shorter pin to pin than the MT driveshaft. They’re interchangeable.
86065276-88A2-4687-830A-888EC2FB1D58.jpeg


MT410 diff installed. I'll use this in my 2.0 since I'm pushing a lot more power through this than my MT and I'd rather have the extra security of a steel diff case on this platform. The fly ratio 32t spur should also fit this diff case. I might run it so that I can fit a smaller sized pinion and maintain an 85mph top speed but also push the motor mount insert further into the center for better support.
BF4ADEA3-E1A9-479E-83D4-C14C14DD84E9.jpeg
 
Last edited:

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
First run with this motor didn’t go so well.

I had a couple of hard impacts. Guessing one of those caused this in combination with the really heavy and long motor placing a lot of leverage against the mount. Will need to figure out some sort of rear end support system for the motor can. The motor screws were also loose but not stripped so it could have been that they loosened and on impact the mount broke.
8327F55F-ED95-49F4-951A-4CE80F41A433.jpeg


Also strapped a set of 6s backflips.
F5FC1223-CC21-42FD-8C48-0D8A9E098583.jpeg


Will record a running video once I get a replacement mount installed.
 
Last edited:

PrimaRC

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First run with this motor didn’t go so well.

I had a couple of hard impacts. Guessing one of those caused this in combination with the really heavy and long motor placing a lot of leverage against the mount. Will need to figure out some sort of rear end support system for the motor can. The motor screws were also loose but not stripped so it could have been that they loosened and on impact the mount broke.
View attachment 6829

Also strapped a set of 6s backflips.
View attachment 6830

Will record a running video once I get a replacement mount installed.
Sorry about the damage man, thank you for the awesome info, you're very kind and generous with your time and experience!

I have used wetsuit material to hold the back end of a motor up, but I usually layer pieces of gorilla tape down and use a steel cable tie to hold the motor down to the tape, you'll need a few extra holes in the chassis to run the tie through.

I hope you can find a robust solution, I'm going to be in the same boat with the Castle 1520 motor I think it's ~88mm long.

Have you ever bent your Tekno chassis before?
 

EvilT

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Thanks man! There's no there's no aftermarket braces out for the 2.0 platform yet.

I did try to fit the M2C V2 Mega Brace for the Mt410. The steering plate hole lines up and only the rearmost bottom hole lines up. The battery tray pieces don't fit with the V2 mega brace and the center driveshaft doesn't line up. Top rear hole also doesn’t line up. So the old platform braces definitely don't fit.
View attachment 6825 View attachment 6827 View attachment 6824
View attachment 6828

The .3/.4 center differential definitely does fit though. Left is 2.0 diff, right is an MT410 diff with a steel diff case and stainless screws. Both have 44t steel spur gears. Note the old outdrives have a flat edge.
View attachment 6821
View attachment 6823

Driveshafts are also the same length end to end. 2.0 driveshaft is about 1.5mm shorter pin to pin than the MT driveshaft. They’re interchangeable.
View attachment 6820

MT410 diff installed. I'll use this in my 2.0 since I'm pushing a lot more power through this than my MT and I'd rather have the extra security of a steel diff case on this platform. The fly ratio 32t spur should also fit this diff case. I might run it so that I can fit a smaller sized pinion and maintain an 85mph top speed but also push the motor mount insert further into the center for better support.
View attachment 6822
Shame about the failure!

kudos for checking compatibility 👍🏼
Do you think the M2C centre diff case will work then as well?
 

Nicochau

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Shame about the failure!

kudos for checking compatibility 👍🏼
Do you think the M2C centre diff case will work then as well?
You can’t build the 2.0 diff with the m2c diff case.

What you can do, is build a OG/.3/.4 diff with the m2c diff case and do a full replacement. I believe they fit in similar housing.

Not worth the effort and money if you ask me. You would gain metal, but the OG diffs are slightly smaller. The newer diffs are larger capacity and seem to require thicker oils. Go 200k+ weight in your center diff and you should be good to go. On an overpowered rig, I would do 500k wt to be on the safe side. Don’t overfill it or it will leak. If it leaks, refill it.
 

Matthew_Armeni

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The way the motor mount insert broke makes me think that the motor flexed up. This could be from landing upside down or the chassis flexed enough to bend up and hit the rear end of the motor. My guess is the chassis flexed and hit the motor. Inspect your chassis and look for marks near the end of the motor can.
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Sorry about the damage man, thank you for the awesome info, you're very kind and generous with your time and experience!

I have used wetsuit material to hold the back end of a motor up, but I usually layer pieces of gorilla tape down and use a steel cable tie to hold the motor down to the tape, you'll need a few extra holes in the chassis to run the tie through.

I hope you can find a robust solution, I'm going to be in the same boat with the Castle 1520 motor I think it's ~88mm long.

Have you ever bent your Tekno chassis before?
I appreciate the kind words ! I'll likely try something along those lines to support the motor.

I've bent the MT chassis twice on square hits. I managed to straighten it, post #8 here.

You can’t build the 2.0 diff with the m2c diff case.

What you can do, is build a OG/.3/.4 diff with the m2c diff case and do a full replacement. I believe they fit in similar housing.

Not worth the effort and money if you ask me. You would gain metal, but the OG diffs are slightly smaller. The newer diffs are larger capacity and seem to require thicker oils. Go 200k+ weight in your center diff and you should be good to go. On an overpowered rig, I would do 500k wt to be on the safe side. Don’t overfill it or it will leak. If it leaks, refill it.
Yeah I should have noted that you can swap in an entire .3/.4 diff into the 2.0 platform, not swap parts between the diffs. The only parts that are interchangeable between both sets of diffs are the bearings, 8x16x5mm.

The way the motor mount insert broke makes me think that the motor flexed up. This could be from landing upside down or the chassis flexed enough to bend up and hit the rear end of the motor. My guess is the chassis flexed and hit the motor. Inspect your chassis and look for marks near the end of the motor can.
Yeah there's a small mark on the chassis. I think the motor loosened up since the screws were backed out, letting it flex and hit the chassis which then snapped the lip on the motor mount insert. Good motor support and a smaller pinion will probably fix this.
 
Last edited:

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Pulled the data log from the first run. Pretty solid considering traction was lacking. It made 5256 Watts or 7HP from 232.6A at 25.1V. That translates to 90% efficiency if my math is right. Run time was about 12-15 minutes with the 5000mAh Turnigy, full throttle bursts the whole run.
B5798E50-09E8-4627-B8B5-FAB099BE1F4C.jpeg


Setup and Temps:
Load - Backflip LPs, 25/44
Ambient Temp - 70F
Cooling - YR dual fan for motor, server fan on ESC
Electronic Temps - Motor 160F, Battery 115F, ESC Max 145F average 112F

Plenty of headroom to push more current through the ESC. Pretty impressed with the temps; I was expecting 150F average and maybe 180F max but these ESCs are just solid, especially with a juiced up fan cooling them. Motor temps aren't terrible either. I have it geared really high and was full throttle most of the run with little traction.
 
Last edited:

Fordfreak95

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First run with this motor didn’t go so well.

I had a couple of hard impacts. Guessing one of those caused this in combination with the really heavy and long motor placing a lot of leverage against the mount. Will need to figure out some sort of rear end support system for the motor can. The motor screws were also loose but not stripped so it could have been that they loosened and on impact the mount broke.
View attachment 6829

Also strapped a set of 6s backflips.
View attachment 6830

Will record a running video once I get a replacement mount installed.
I use this on my builds that run a long TP4070.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/332787511241
Trim off the CD mount from it and then mount it on the rear of the motor. You will need transfer screws to mark your hole locations on the chassis. No matter what the landing is the motor will not move.
 

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