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Long Can MT410 Build

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
I wanted to do a more in depth write up on my build.

I've been out of the hobby for about two and a half years. I'd always wanted to get an MT410, and finally decided to do so. The idea with this build was not to go all out but instead to overpower the truck and see what needs upgrading. I wanted a really capable MT that could take a beating. With that being said, here it is:

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The body is a 313mm wheelbase, crawler sized F-150 body from Pro Line (3516-00). I painted it using the spaz stix holographic color changing paint and the high gloss black backer. I used tamiya black and finished on the outside with spax stix matte on the fenders, bed, roof and the hood vent.

Here's the setup:
- Castle MMX 6s ESC
- Rocket RC 4092 sized, 1650kV Motor
- Powerhobby 760MG servo (700+ Oz/in of torque, high voltage, metal case, waterproof)
- Futaba 3PV TX, R203GF RX
- Badlands MX38--these are the old style with the Desperado wheel, I found some on eBay-- and backflip LPs
- Zeee RC 7200mAh 80c 4s LiPo

IMG_7904.jpg


With a motor of this size the ESC needs to be relocated. There's a couple of parts that do this well; the German Company M3 makes a really nice aluminum plate for this, M2C Racing makes the wide chassis.

I opted to make my own plates out of ABS to raise the ESC over the motor.

IMG_7891.jpg


I used:
- 4 M3x25mm socket cap screws:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6384
- A 1/8" ABS Plate (~3.2mm thick)
- 4 M3 6mm tall spacers
-4 smaller M3 spacers I had laying around, around 2-3mm tall.

The upper plate is where the ESC mounts to. I also made another smaller plate to help brace the bolts and hardware. You can see in the image above and below how I set it all up. I just made a rough template on paper, cut it out of the ABS sheet and started refining it with a dremel. The stock differential top plate stays.
IMG_7903.jpg


This setup works well so far, the ESC is taped to the plate and holds well. The only issue with this is that the ESC mounts far away from where the plate bolts into the center differential brace and so the plate slaps against the motor (lever effect). I used a piece of one-sided adhesive foam between the motor and ESC plate to resolve this.

I also followed this write up to install the larger Yeah Raxing fan on the MMX ESC. Instead of M3x30mm screws I used M3x35MM screws to fit a fan guard over the fan. I also wired the fan directly to the receiver so that it’s always on and I deleted the ESC on/off switch.
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads...rable-and-larger-fan-on-your-castle-mmx.1129/

Other than these simple mods the truck is completely stock with the exception of a DE Racing skid Plate in the rear.

So far so good. The drivetrain takes a beating. Standing backflips, double backflips in the air, wheelies, tumbles, etc. I'm very impressed with how it handles and how durable it is.

I haven't found the time to make a running video but the truck is definitely way overpowered even on 4s. I've ran 5 packs through it so far on a 20t pinion, this works out to a ~55mph top speed on paper. In practice, the MX38s balloon too much to actually hit those speeds. I have the power limited to around 80% using the castle auxiliary wire feature.

One thing to note is that even though this motor is large and is of a relatively low kV, I still heat it up a lot using the 20t pinion and the large MX38s with my driving style. I'll need to gear down with the larger tires. The ESC keeps pretty cool, average temp is 128 F according to the data logs.

I haven't had any serious breakages:
- 1 set of rear body posts
- Not a breakage: shock Bladders folded into the shock body, leaking out all of the oil through the shock cap bleeder hole. I assume this is probably because I overtightened the caps. No big deal, just need new fluid and the bladder needs to be put back where it goes.

I'm pretty content with how this is setup right now with the exception of a few gripes:
- The castle MMX fan case clips onto the ESC. It falls off pretty easily on impacts.
- The truck bleeds a lot of power to the front wheels.
- The shock collars are difficult to thread on.
- The shocks are squeaky. I probably missed some material when I cut the plastic bits from the parts tree.

Future changes:
- yellow springs and 800cst oil as this setup is considerably heavier (11-12lbs) than a regularly kitted MT410.
- Emulsion Style Caps for ease of assembly
- Aluminum shock collars: not needed, just nice to have for ease of setting ride height vs the stock plastic collars which are hard to adjust.
- Delrin shock internals: not needed, I just want extra smooth shocks. Also, mine are squeaky so hopefully this helps.
- 200k oil in the center diff to combat power loss via the front wheels (vs stock 100k)
- I need to figure out the fan mounting issue, I'll probably use zip ties.

A few more pictures:
IMG_7894.jpg

IMG_7905.jpg

IMG_7901.jpg
 
Last edited:

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Definitely post up some videos man, good thread!
Thanks! Working on some videos but I actually broke it haha.

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Both of these were driver error.

Slid the truck slideways perfectly into a pole which broke a turnbuckle mounting screw in the rear.

I also bent the chassis with a square landing from 6-7 feet in the air onto the edge of a piece of wood.

I wouldn't have expected it to hold up to those accidents, plus they were lined up perfectly to break something.

Other than that it's been holding up to some serious abuse. Self-righting, double/triple backflips, hard landings, etc.

Here's what it looked like before the breakages:

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I made a couple of setup changes before I broke it.
- TBR front bumper: I wanted to test this out. I was happy with their products in other RCs but this one feels very stiff compared to stock which did a good job. Hopefully it'll work out with time.
- Shock Upgrades: Emulsion caps, Alu collars, Delrin internals. I suck at building shocks so to simplify things (and prevent folding bladders again) I bought the emulsion caps. The aluminum collars are to replace the plastic ones which are harder to thread on. I had an issue with squeaky shocks--because I suck at building shocks-- so I replaced all of the stock internals with delrin. I drilled the delrin pistons out to 8x1.5mm. Stock is10x1.2mm. Total area is still 12mm so damping should be similar/the same I think.
- 800 CST shock oil. I'll actually need to bump this up to 1000 CST. I think switching over to emulsion made them feel lighter (less damping).
- 200k diff oil. This definitely helped with tire ballooning up front but I think I'll bump it up even more, possibly 500k.
- Cleaned up the wiring.
 
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Tekno_craze

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Thanks! Working on some videos but I actually broke it haha.

View attachment 6366 View attachment 6365

Both of these were driver error.

Slid the truck slideways perfectly into a pole which broke a turnbuckle mounting screw in the rear.

I also bent the chassis with a square landing from 6-7 feet in the air onto the edge of a piece of wood.

I wouldn't have expected it to hold up to those accidents, plus they were lined up perfectly to break something.

Other than that it's been holding up to some serious abuse. Self-righting, double/triple backflips, hard landings, etc.

Here's what it looked like before the breakages:

View attachment 6370 View attachment 6371 View attachment 6367 View attachment 6368

I made a couple of setup changes before I broke it.
- TBR front bumper: I wanted to test this out. I was happy with their products in other RCs but this one feels very stiff compared to stock which did a good job. Hopefully it'll work out with time.
- Shock Upgrades: Emulsion caps, Alu collars, Delrin internals. I suck at building shocks so to simplify things (and prevent folding bladders again) I bought the emulsion caps. The aluminum collars are to replace the plastic ones which are harder to thread on. I had an issue with squeaky shocks--because I suck at building shocks-- so I replaced all of the stock internals with delrin. I drilled the delrin pistons out to 8x1.5mm. Stock is10x1.2mm. Total area is still 12mm so damping should be similar/the same I think.
- 800 CST shock oil. I'll actually need to bump this up to 1000 CST. I think switching over to emulsion made them feel lighter (less damping).
- 200k diff oil. This definitely helped with tire ballooning up front but I think I'll bump it up even more, possibly 500k.
- Cleaned up the wiring.
Heck yeah!! Looks good man! I was running similar tire setup, you should give the backflip’s a shot! I know they’re super overplayed, but my god does it make the car drive like a saint! IMO best tire combo for the mt410. How much heavier than stock is it with you long can setup?? Looks pretty beefy ? I’ve been bashing mine like a mad psycho and I’ve found the only two parts I really need to keep in my bash box are the shock rod ends and extra set of shock shafts.
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Heck yeah!! Looks good man! I was running similar tire setup, you should give the backflip’s a shot! I know they’re super overplayed, but my god does it make the car drive like a saint! IMO best tire combo for the mt410. How much heavier than stock is it with you long can setup?? Looks pretty beefy ? I’ve been bashing mine like a mad psycho and I’ve found the only two parts I really need to keep in my bash box are the shock rod ends and extra set of shock shafts.
Thanks man!

I tried the backflip LPs, I actually had those two breakages using the LPs not the MX38s because I suck at driving with small tires haha. It does handle a lot nicer but I like to do flips so I'll stick with the MX38s.

Its around 12 pounds, I think a regular MT410 (normal sized motor, smaller tires, stock shocks, bumper, etc.) is like 9-10 pounds.

I'm going to try the 6s backflips and an 18t pinion as well as a heatsink/fans for the motor and yellow springs/1000 CST oil. I hope this'll be the right setup for what I'm trying to accomplish.
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
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I just watched your video dude! Awesome standing backflips!! Sick jumps!
Haha thanks man! I crashed a few times too but I cut those clips out lol.

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I straightened the chassis out using a couple of 2X4s, a bottle jack and another small piece of wood to distribute the load onto the chassis correctly. Put it all under a tow hitch. Took about 15 tries, I had to flex the chassis the other way a whole lot but finally got it perfect again. The aluminum is tough.


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I added powerhobby fans, they just fit under the ESC Plate. I had to lift it with longer 40mm screws and a few extra spacers. I used a M3 spacer kit from Amazon to get it all setup right. The wiring

Temps dropped a whole lot. From 200 F to 120 F after a full pack. Ambient temps were a lot cooler today thoug
7F0A325A-1669-4572-A7D2-B5A7853B98DD.jpeg

Here it is after said run. I also added badhorsie standard large shock covers and yellow springs.

The truck is almost perfect. I think 300k-400k in the center diff will be just right. I have the power limited to 75% right now since it’s way too hard to control at full throttle with max power enabled.

5588369C-FE1C-470C-89CC-5BA417E6812E.jpeg
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I also did the rear bulkhead bearing mod where the stock outer bearing gets replaced by a flanged boca bearing to help prevent the set screw coming loose when the small center driveshaft hits the diff cup. This helps save diff bearings, gears and the bulkhead. I also replaced the inner bearing and added 2.45mm worth of shims between the two bearings.
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
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Painted up a fresh body since the first one is near retirement after 12 packs of rear end landings.

Another F150 but this time with some braces I made out of ABS to strengthen the rear end and as skid protection for the roof. Two ABS plates, the body sandwiched in between, bolts going through each plate and a locknut holding it all together. I’m going to mount another at the front as well.
The fade is from fluorescent green>white>gunmetal. Some matte black details and blacked out windows. I used the tekno headlight stickers, I’m liking them. I’m also testing out the arrma bodyclop retainers.
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NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
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More importantly,

I was having electronics issues. Motor would cog really bad, not moving at some points. The ESC would heat up a lot really fast. I assumed a bad motor and got a replacement.

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TPpower 4060 1650kV.
Same dimensions as the Hobbystar without the cooling fins: 39.5x92.5mm
539 grams.
I purchased the motor with M3 mounting threads selected but received the endbell uninstalled. The motor came installed with an endbell using M4 threads. Had to switch the endbells around as well as press out the bearing from the M4 endbell and into to the M3. A socket and a hammer did the job.

CD336801-A7B7-4F9D-B1F7-5432F6AEA430.jpeg


Mounted up using some stainless hardware. I had to relocate the ESC and instead of using the two plates atop the center diff with all of the spacers I moved it to the second servo position using a custom ABS mount, M3 screws and a couple of small M3 spacers (6mm tall). I routed all of the wires under the plate and under the rear driveshaft, hopefully it doesn’t get caught and ripped up.
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Still having the same electronics issues so it’s probably a bad ESC. I’ll send this one to castle.
 
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Nicochau

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
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Looking good!

i was looking for those small 25mm ESC fan guards, man, they are not that easy to find. Yours in black is perfect.
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
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Guy on a Moose

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Hopefully castle helps you out. I’m going to go out on a limb and say you need a mmx8s for that set up \m/. Running the numbers i found the 4050 to be about if not above max for the mmx6s.
edit: I checked out the chart for the 4060 size. That’s an amazing 6s motor. Running on 4s could definitely cause heat issues.
 
Last edited:

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Hopefully castle helps you out. I’m going to go out on a limb and say you need a mmx8s for that set up \m/. Running the numbers i found the 4050 to be about if not above max for the mmx6s.
edit: I checked out the chart for the 4060 size. That’s an amazing 6s motor. Running on 4s could definitely cause heat issues.
Yeah I’m thinking that as well. I saw others like overkill and chainsaw10 be successful using the mmx6s on heavier vehicles, 6s, and low gear ratios with long can motors like the Cordova 1440 and the TPpower 4060. I’ll try again and if I keep having issues I’ll try the 8s version.
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
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  2. MT410
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4.4.21.PNG

Most recent data log.
Pushing near 4 horsepower on a 20t pinion using the badlands MX38s. Top speed on paper is 57mph.

Double standing backflips on asphalt when set to max power and 0% punch control.
With dual protek fans on the motor I've seen a highest of 140F on the rear end of the can, ambient was around 80F.

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I'd like to say that this setup is bulletproof but I'm slightly worried about those ESC temps. ZeeeRC Battery also hit 125F on the case, internally that’s quite hot so I’ll likely be buying some SMC LiPos in the future.

As far as the truck itself I'm pretty happy. I bent the chassis again after smacking a gate on landing. I've got a fresh chassis and M2C center brace to go on. I was also getting temperature readings on the center diff over 130F and consequentially a lot of power dumping to the front near the end of runs. M2C center diff cup should take care of that
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Snapped the rear right side CVD after a rock got lodged against it and took off a chunk of metal.

All things considered the MT410 certainly takes a beating, I'm impressed.

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Foam and some ABS plates to keep the LiPos from getting chewed up by the center differential drive cup.

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SumoRC aluminum skid plate. For some reason the eBay listing says these don’t work with the MT410. They work fine for me.
 
Last edited:

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
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Made some changes.


M2C V2 Center Brace
AD9D4474-5079-4065-81EF-912C2D249811.jpeg

I bent the chassis again so a fresh chassis and M2C braces should fix this. Will be installing the go big kit as well.


7FF733E4-C29C-4484-B3FC-5154627270E5.jpeg

Stainless Screws where stock were loctited/bent/worn. Also some cleaner wiring. Still working on this.

Still need:
- TBR Rear bumper and wheels
- Orange Springs/1000CST oil (current setup is pretty heavy)
- M2C Go Big Kit
- Install M2C aluminum diff cup
- Proper Fan wiring solution.

Having 3 fans running all the time requires a few adapters which are hard to route and fit on the smaller chassis and radio box the MT410 has. I was powering the ESC fan off of the battery but it stopped working for some reason? I'll make another adapter to power it from the receiver again.
 
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freelosophy

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M2C has new front and rear shock mounts that are better than their original go big stay home kit. I'd love to get a long can in my mt410 also but putting the esc up so high gives me shivers. How's the center of gravity feel with the ESC so high? BTW txs for posting real sweet rig!
 

NO02

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
M2C has new front and rear shock mounts that are better than their original go big stay home kit. I'd love to get a long can in my mt410 also but putting the esc up so high gives me shivers. How's the center of gravity feel with the ESC so high? BTW txs for posting real sweet rig!
Thank you!

It still drives great honestly. In a basher like this its harder to tell when you change the COG a bit.

I'll look into those shock mounts thank you.
 

freelosophy

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These are the front and rear shock towers from mitch, no more bends. check out their thickness on pic, really awesome. (https://m2cracing.net/cars-and-truc...raton-outcast-notorious-rear-shock-tower.html)
Am thinking on getting a mamba monster x 33.6V with the 1717 motor for the mt410 (no more heat problems) and using the monster x 25.2v with the 1515 motor on the newly ordered and not yet received et48 2.0. But can't say for sure what am gonna do, the overheating on warm days is annoying me. thanks for help bro.
 

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