- Messages
- 119
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- Tekno RC's
- ET48
- MT410
- Driving Style
- Basher
I wanted to do a more in depth write up on my build.
I've been out of the hobby for about two and a half years. I'd always wanted to get an MT410, and finally decided to do so. The idea with this build was not to go all out but instead to overpower the truck and see what needs upgrading. I wanted a really capable MT that could take a beating. With that being said, here it is:
The body is a 313mm wheelbase, crawler sized F-150 body from Pro Line (3516-00). I painted it using the spaz stix holographic color changing paint and the high gloss black backer. I used tamiya black and finished on the outside with spax stix matte on the fenders, bed, roof and the hood vent.
Here's the setup:
- Castle MMX 6s ESC
- Rocket RC 4092 sized, 1650kV Motor
- Powerhobby 760MG servo (700+ Oz/in of torque, high voltage, metal case, waterproof)
- Futaba 3PV TX, R203GF RX
- Badlands MX38--these are the old style with the Desperado wheel, I found some on eBay-- and backflip LPs
- Zeee RC 7200mAh 80c 4s LiPo
With a motor of this size the ESC needs to be relocated. There's a couple of parts that do this well; the German Company M3 makes a really nice aluminum plate for this, M2C Racing makes the wide chassis.
I opted to make my own plates out of ABS to raise the ESC over the motor.
I used:
- 4 M3x25mm socket cap screws:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6384
- A 1/8" ABS Plate (~3.2mm thick)
- 4 M3 6mm tall spacers
-4 smaller M3 spacers I had laying around, around 2-3mm tall.
The upper plate is where the ESC mounts to. I also made another smaller plate to help brace the bolts and hardware. You can see in the image above and below how I set it all up. I just made a rough template on paper, cut it out of the ABS sheet and started refining it with a dremel. The stock differential top plate stays.
This setup works well so far, the ESC is taped to the plate and holds well. The only issue with this is that the ESC mounts far away from where the plate bolts into the center differential brace and so the plate slaps against the motor (lever effect). I used a piece of one-sided adhesive foam between the motor and ESC plate to resolve this.
I also followed this write up to install the larger Yeah Raxing fan on the MMX ESC. Instead of M3x30mm screws I used M3x35MM screws to fit a fan guard over the fan. I also wired the fan directly to the receiver so that it’s always on and I deleted the ESC on/off switch.
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads...rable-and-larger-fan-on-your-castle-mmx.1129/
Other than these simple mods the truck is completely stock with the exception of a DE Racing skid Plate in the rear.
So far so good. The drivetrain takes a beating. Standing backflips, double backflips in the air, wheelies, tumbles, etc. I'm very impressed with how it handles and how durable it is.
I haven't found the time to make a running video but the truck is definitely way overpowered even on 4s. I've ran 5 packs through it so far on a 20t pinion, this works out to a ~55mph top speed on paper. In practice, the MX38s balloon too much to actually hit those speeds. I have the power limited to around 80% using the castle auxiliary wire feature.
One thing to note is that even though this motor is large and is of a relatively low kV, I still heat it up a lot using the 20t pinion and the large MX38s with my driving style. I'll need to gear down with the larger tires. The ESC keeps pretty cool, average temp is 128 F according to the data logs.
I haven't had any serious breakages:
- 1 set of rear body posts
- Not a breakage: shock Bladders folded into the shock body, leaking out all of the oil through the shock cap bleeder hole. I assume this is probably because I overtightened the caps. No big deal, just need new fluid and the bladder needs to be put back where it goes.
I'm pretty content with how this is setup right now with the exception of a few gripes:
- The castle MMX fan case clips onto the ESC. It falls off pretty easily on impacts.
- The truck bleeds a lot of power to the front wheels.
- The shock collars are difficult to thread on.
- The shocks are squeaky. I probably missed some material when I cut the plastic bits from the parts tree.
Future changes:
- yellow springs and 800cst oil as this setup is considerably heavier (11-12lbs) than a regularly kitted MT410.
- Emulsion Style Caps for ease of assembly
- Aluminum shock collars: not needed, just nice to have for ease of setting ride height vs the stock plastic collars which are hard to adjust.
- Delrin shock internals: not needed, I just want extra smooth shocks. Also, mine are squeaky so hopefully this helps.
- 200k oil in the center diff to combat power loss via the front wheels (vs stock 100k)
- I need to figure out the fan mounting issue, I'll probably use zip ties.
A few more pictures:
I've been out of the hobby for about two and a half years. I'd always wanted to get an MT410, and finally decided to do so. The idea with this build was not to go all out but instead to overpower the truck and see what needs upgrading. I wanted a really capable MT that could take a beating. With that being said, here it is:
The body is a 313mm wheelbase, crawler sized F-150 body from Pro Line (3516-00). I painted it using the spaz stix holographic color changing paint and the high gloss black backer. I used tamiya black and finished on the outside with spax stix matte on the fenders, bed, roof and the hood vent.
Here's the setup:
- Castle MMX 6s ESC
- Rocket RC 4092 sized, 1650kV Motor
- Powerhobby 760MG servo (700+ Oz/in of torque, high voltage, metal case, waterproof)
- Futaba 3PV TX, R203GF RX
- Badlands MX38--these are the old style with the Desperado wheel, I found some on eBay-- and backflip LPs
- Zeee RC 7200mAh 80c 4s LiPo
With a motor of this size the ESC needs to be relocated. There's a couple of parts that do this well; the German Company M3 makes a really nice aluminum plate for this, M2C Racing makes the wide chassis.
I opted to make my own plates out of ABS to raise the ESC over the motor.
I used:
- 4 M3x25mm socket cap screws:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6384
- A 1/8" ABS Plate (~3.2mm thick)
- 4 M3 6mm tall spacers
-4 smaller M3 spacers I had laying around, around 2-3mm tall.
The upper plate is where the ESC mounts to. I also made another smaller plate to help brace the bolts and hardware. You can see in the image above and below how I set it all up. I just made a rough template on paper, cut it out of the ABS sheet and started refining it with a dremel. The stock differential top plate stays.
This setup works well so far, the ESC is taped to the plate and holds well. The only issue with this is that the ESC mounts far away from where the plate bolts into the center differential brace and so the plate slaps against the motor (lever effect). I used a piece of one-sided adhesive foam between the motor and ESC plate to resolve this.
I also followed this write up to install the larger Yeah Raxing fan on the MMX ESC. Instead of M3x30mm screws I used M3x35MM screws to fit a fan guard over the fan. I also wired the fan directly to the receiver so that it’s always on and I deleted the ESC on/off switch.
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads...rable-and-larger-fan-on-your-castle-mmx.1129/
Other than these simple mods the truck is completely stock with the exception of a DE Racing skid Plate in the rear.
So far so good. The drivetrain takes a beating. Standing backflips, double backflips in the air, wheelies, tumbles, etc. I'm very impressed with how it handles and how durable it is.
I haven't found the time to make a running video but the truck is definitely way overpowered even on 4s. I've ran 5 packs through it so far on a 20t pinion, this works out to a ~55mph top speed on paper. In practice, the MX38s balloon too much to actually hit those speeds. I have the power limited to around 80% using the castle auxiliary wire feature.
One thing to note is that even though this motor is large and is of a relatively low kV, I still heat it up a lot using the 20t pinion and the large MX38s with my driving style. I'll need to gear down with the larger tires. The ESC keeps pretty cool, average temp is 128 F according to the data logs.
I haven't had any serious breakages:
- 1 set of rear body posts
- Not a breakage: shock Bladders folded into the shock body, leaking out all of the oil through the shock cap bleeder hole. I assume this is probably because I overtightened the caps. No big deal, just need new fluid and the bladder needs to be put back where it goes.
I'm pretty content with how this is setup right now with the exception of a few gripes:
- The castle MMX fan case clips onto the ESC. It falls off pretty easily on impacts.
- The truck bleeds a lot of power to the front wheels.
- The shock collars are difficult to thread on.
- The shocks are squeaky. I probably missed some material when I cut the plastic bits from the parts tree.
Future changes:
- yellow springs and 800cst oil as this setup is considerably heavier (11-12lbs) than a regularly kitted MT410.
- Emulsion Style Caps for ease of assembly
- Aluminum shock collars: not needed, just nice to have for ease of setting ride height vs the stock plastic collars which are hard to adjust.
- Delrin shock internals: not needed, I just want extra smooth shocks. Also, mine are squeaky so hopefully this helps.
- 200k oil in the center diff to combat power loss via the front wheels (vs stock 100k)
- I need to figure out the fan mounting issue, I'll probably use zip ties.
A few more pictures:
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