Fresh build - Whats next

[cr8tor]

You may remember me from a previous thread asking for pre-build thoughts on my parts list.
I appreciated all the feedback i received. It was very helpful.

Now i'm back for the post build advice.
Comment on some or all topics, anything is welcomed.
I'll figure it all out on my own eventually, but pointers, suggestions, links to videos and setup threads are always welcomed and appreciated!
While i may figure it out on my own, i very value the input of people that have been there before.

First, a pic of the completed build. I just wrapped it up, bound the transmitter, verified all worked, and clicked the pic.

In case you noticed it, the pinion is not installed yet to avoid accidents while i play with and learn the electronics.
A habit from working with racing drones and 700 series helicopters that chew things up and/or simply disappear at a rapid pace.

My build list is as follows.

• MT410 Kit
• Nitro Pro 650 (too tall, had to be shimmed to fit, buy the 550 instead)
• Castle Creations Monster X 1/8 Brushless Combo w/1515 Sensored Motor (2200Kv)
• Tekno RC "M5" Hardened Steel Mod1 Pinion Gear w/5mm Bore (16T)
• ARRMA Backflip Lp 4S 3.8
• Pro-Line 2017 Ford F-150 Raptor
• DX5C Smart 5-Channel Transmitter / SR315 Rx Combo

So what all should be on my list of things to do next?
I've listed items i am already planning.

• Mount power switch somewhere
• Set endpoints for steering - Done
• Center the steering?(adjusted mechanically via control arm)
  • It seems pretty close right now but this is my first terrain vehicle for over 10 years.
• Adjust shocks/ride height/Droop
• The Castle Link Adapter is ordered
  • Once received, update and customize motor/esc settings as desired
    • Any settings to change from stock that you might recommend?
    • I'll be watching videos and learning more about this while i wait for the adapter, video suggestions or reading material links welcome
    • Suggested settings
      • Disabled drag brake
      • Set brake power to 30%
      • Enable 20% punch control
      • Enable the auxiliary feature for max throttle
      • Change the sample size for data logging to the lowest option to accumulate more runs worth of data
• Shorten and customize wiring as needed/desired.
  • Is there any reason not to shorten the 3 motor to esc power cables?
  • Is there any reason not to shorten the motor sensor wires?
• Secure sensor and control wiring connections
  • Dab of hot glue to hold them in place
• Body is in progress also
  • Paint - The wife paints so i have all sorts of acrylics to use
  • Then i'll shoe goo and drywall mesh the inside of it
  • Then drill holes and mount
• Keep an eye on motor temps to determine if a heatsink or heatsink/fan combo are needed, or possibly a different pinion
• Keep an eye out for loose screws (on the vehicle)

 

[nitro]

Not supposed to run these monster motor without pinion. Not from personal experience. What is said in my hobby wing manual. Maybe in real world you can, I don't know.

 

[NO02]

You may remember me from a previous thread asking for pre-build thoughts on my parts list.
I appreciated all the feedback i received. It was very helpful.

Now i'm back for the post build advice.
Comment on some or all topics, anything is welcomed.
I'll figure it all out on my own eventually, but pointers, suggestions, links to videos and setup threads are always welcomed and appreciated!
While i may figure it out on my own, i very value the input of people that have been there before.

First, a pic of the completed build. I just wrapped it up, bound the transmitter, verified all worked, and clicked the pic.
View attachment 6381
In case you noticed it, the pinion is not installed yet to avoid accidents while i play with and learn the electronics.
A habit from working with racing drones and 700 series helicopters that chew things up and/or simply disappear at a rapid pace.

My build list is as follows.

• MT410 Kit
• Nitro Pro 650 (too tall, had to be shimmed to fit, buy the 550 instead)
• Castle Creations Monster X 1/8 Brushless Combo w/1515 Sensored Motor (2200Kv)
• Tekno RC "M5" Hardened Steel Mod1 Pinion Gear w/5mm Bore (16T)
• ARRMA Backflip Lp 4S 3.8
• Pro-Line 2017 Ford F-150 Raptor
• DX5C Smart 5-Channel Transmitter / SR315 Rx Combo

So what all should be on my list of things to do next?
I've listed items i am already planning.

• Mount power switch somewhere
• Set endpoints for steering - Done
• Center the steering?(adjusted mechanically via control arm)
  • It seems pretty close right now but this is my first terrain vehicle for over 10 years.
• Adjust shocks/ride height
• The Castle Link Adapter is ordered
  • Once received, update and customize motor/esc settings as desired
    • Any settings to change from stock that you might recommend?
    • I'll be watching videos and learning more about this while i wait for the adapter, video suggestions or reading material links welcome
• Shorten and customize wiring as needed/desired.
  • Is there any reason not to shorten the 3 motor to esc power cables?
  • Is there any reason not to shorten the motor sensor wires?
• Secure sensor and control wiring connections
  • Dab of hot glue to hold them in place
• Body is in progress also
  • Paint - The wife paints so i have all sorts of acrylics to use
  • Then i'll shoe goo and drywall mesh the inside of it
  • Then drill holes and mount
• Keep an eye on motor temps to determine if a heatsink or heatsink/fan combo are needed, or possibly a different pinion
• Keep an eye out for loose screws (on the vehicle)

Nice build, looks good!

- I just chopped the switch and spliced the wires together. The castle mmx switch is built weird and really flimsy so I avoided issues down the line and bypassed it. So far so good, it just turns on when I plug in a battery.
- make sure you set droop!
- I changed and checked a few things on my mmx 6s. Check LiPo cutoff (I set mine at 3.2v), I disabled drag brake, set brake power to 30%, Enabled 20% punch control, enabled the auxiliary feature for max throttle (very useful for handing the controller to someone else and quickly turning down the power— you can not use the aux feature/wire or set it to whatever you like), and I changed the sample size for data logging to the lowest option available so I could accumulate more runs worth of data.
- No reason not to shorten the ESC receiver wires. I’d even recommend putting them in some techflex for a cleaner look. I’m not sure about the motor sensor wires.
- You can also add a few coats of rustoleum spray on bed liner after you do the shoe good job. It helps a lot.

 

[cr8tor]

Not supposed to run these monster motor without pinion. Not from personal experience. What is said in my hobby wing manual. Maybe in real world you can, I don't know.

There is no real intent to run it that way at all.
I left the pinion off until i knew for sure all the electronics were good.
Once it was plugged in and the receiver bound, i tested to make sure it responded as expected and that was it.
Pinion in and working on some wiring and other stuff before i take it out today for some first test's and rips.

 

[cr8tor]

Nice build, looks good!

- I just chopped the switch and spliced the wires together. The castle mmx switch is built weird and really flimsy so I avoided issues down the line and bypassed it. So far so good, it just turns on when I plug in a battery.
- make sure you set droop!
- I changed and checked a few things on my mmx 6s. Check LiPo cutoff (I set mine at 3.2v), I disabled drag brake, set brake power to 30%, Enabled 20% punch control, enabled the auxiliary feature for max throttle (very useful for handing the controller to someone else and quickly turning down the power— you can not use the aux feature/wire or set it to whatever you like), and I changed the sample size for data logging to the lowest option available so I could accumulate more runs worth of data.
- No reason not to shorten the ESC receiver wires. I’d even recommend putting them in some techflex for a cleaner look. I’m not sure about the motor sensor wires.
- You can also add a few coats of rustoleum spray on bed liner after you do the shoe good job. It helps a lot.

I like the switch and will keep it for now. If i have issues, i will probably replace it with something more robust to be honest. I don't like things to start up when the battery is connected. Im used to drones and stuff that can start chopping things up as soon as they get juice if something is misconfigured or miss-wired.

Set the droop. Added to the list. Correction, done now, will re-adjust based on performance characteristics

I set my cutoff alarm on the controller to 3.4v for now. Will monitor batteries and see how it goes and what i can get out of them while maintaining longevity.
The rest of your suggestions ill work on when i get the castle link thing. Spaced ordering it a few days ago when i got the motor and stuff so im waiting on it. All good though. I appreciate the suggestions on config! Very much so. Its nice to have a baseline place to start.

Thanks for the comment on the ESC wires. I cant imagine it would matter, and the ESC wires will be easy. The sensor wire i have the stuff to make, but they are such a pain as they are so small. Those little connectors are a real b!tch with. I may put them in the cable wrap, i may leave them open. hhhmmm, we shall see on that part. But good suggestion either way.

Good idea on the bed liner spray. Ill grab some of that also.

One last thing, can you elaborate a bit on this part

"enabled the auxiliary feature for max throttle (very useful for handing the controller to someone else and quickly turning down the power— you can not use the aux feature/wire or set it to whatever you like)"​

Is this fairly obvious to do in the software? I haven't got the link yet so i haven't been able to play with it yet. Curious on how exactly to do this for the exact reason you mention. And then how do you trigger it to hand over the controller? I saw the DS5C has a thumb button adjustment for adjusting the throttle on the fly, is that the same thing essentially or is the software limiter better/more effective?

 

[NO02]

I like the switch and will keep it for now. If i have issues, i will probably replace it with something more robust to be honest. I don't like things to start up when the battery is connected. Im used to drones and stuff that can start chopping things up as soon as they get juice if something is misconfigured or miss-wired.

Set the droop. Added to the list. Correction, done now, will re-adjust based on performance characteristics

I set my cutoff alarm on the controller to 3.4v for now. Will monitor batteries and see how it goes and what i can get out of them while maintaining longevity.
The rest of your suggestions ill work on when i get the castle link thing. Spaced ordering it a few days ago when i got the motor and stuff so im waiting on it. All good though. I appreciate the suggestions on config! Very much so. Its nice to have a baseline place to start.

Thanks for the comment on the ESC wires. I cant imagine it would matter, and the ESC wires will be easy. The sensor wire i have the stuff to make, but they are such a pain as they are so small. Those little connectors are a real b!tch with. I may put them in the cable wrap, i may leave them open. hhhmmm, we shall see on that part. But good suggestion either way.

Good idea on the bed liner spray. Ill grab some of that also.

One last thing, can you elaborate a bit on this part

"enabled the auxiliary feature for max throttle (very useful for handing the controller to someone else and quickly turning down the power— you can not use the aux feature/wire or set it to whatever you like)"​

Is this fairly obvious to do in the software? I haven't got the link yet so i haven't been able to play with it yet. Curious on how exactly to do this for the exact reason you mention. And then how do you trigger it to hand over the controller? I saw the DS5C has a thumb button adjustment for adjusting the throttle on the fly, is that the same thing essentially or is the software limiter better/more effective?

The castle auxiliary wire (white wire on the ESC) is an accesory wire that can be configurated to a number of different options. It allows for extra on-the-fly tuning.

You plug it into an extra channel in your receiver. In the castle link settings go to the advanced tab and then enable the auxiliary wire, set it to whatever you like. Then on your transmitter you can change the trim for that channel. The ESC already has presets depending on the signal it receives from your transmitter so it will automatically adjust whatever option you have set.

For me, I plugged the aux wire into the 3rd channel on my futaba receiver and set the aux wire to max power adjustment. I can then change the 3rd channel trim using the transmitter which tells the ESC to lower the power. It's pretty simple actually once it clicks.

I'm not sure about the DS5C transmitter, I don't use spectrum transmitters.