ET48 2.0 Basher Build

[Lynny]

Building the new Tekno ET48 2.0 for bashing I will share some tips tricks and problems I encountered along the way. My setup is Max8 esc hobbystar 4076 Tekno 16 tooth pinion Tekno 44 tooth steel spur RPM Arrma kraton modded bumper DEracing rear skid plate and a SPT 35 kg servo.

When installing the bulkhead to chassis screws TKR1346 they get very tight use chapstick to lubricate the threads and work them in and out as you go or you will round out the hex head.

The first photo is of TKR9117 44t steel spur the bearing surface was oversized second photo is the kit supplied plastic spur I could not get the bearing on luckily I have a lathe and was able to polish it down to get the bearing on.

When mounting the front C-Hub I used 3 by 6 button head screws instead of the tiny set screws included in the kit tighten them while holding pressure with pliers is the best way I found to keep the pins tight and not have any movement back and forth.

When mounting the front shock tower I used 3by18 buttonhead screws and the bottom I used 3by20 buttonhead screws backed with a small 3mm nut with a dab of threadlock.

For the rear tower I used 3by16 in the top holes and 3by18 in the bottom backed with a 3mm nut and threadlock.

For the motor mount and steering post I used 4by12 screws instead of the kit supplied 4by10 you can see they just clear the motor slide and provide a little extra holding power. Also it’s very easy to add a piece of foam to the receiver box I’ve seen a lot of people complaining about this very simple to do.

 

[Lynny]

For the Arrma Kraton front bumper mod you will need 2-m4by22 flathead screws 2-m3by14 screws 1-m3by8 screw a 3/32 drill bit a 7/64 drill bit a countersink a 3mm tap and 2-m4 nuts.

Step 1 mount the bumper to the chassis using m4 screws and nuts.

Step 2 using the 7/64 drill bit drill the center two bulkhead mounting screws.

Step 3 using 3/32 drill bit drill a hole in the bumper and chassis at the center rib of the bumper when you are done drilling the 3 holes you can then remove the bumper from the chassis.

Step 4 countersink the three holes you drilled in the bumper and you will need to drill the rear center hole out with the 7/64 drill bit to fit the 3 mm screw.

Step 5 tap the rear center hole in the chassis with the 3 mm tap be sure to keep the tap straight and level to the chassis.

Step 6 install bulkhead with the rear mounting screws only these screws are extremely tight and hard to get in and install the kit supplied bumper and a block mounting screw.

I forgot to mention you will need to remove the rear kraton mounting recess so the bumper can sit flat on the chassis.

Step 7 mount the RPM bumper using m4by 22 screws in the front m3by14 screws in the center and the m3by8 screw with threadlock in the rear of the bumper and you are done and well protected.

 

[Lynny]

RPM bumper and DEracing rear skid plate installed the skid plates come 3 in a pack and are for the EB48 2.0

To mount the esc I used doublesided tape and a zip tie.

The screws pictured are on left the 3by14 included in the kit I didn’t use them I used 3by20 to mount the servo mount to the chassis and 3by16 with aluminum counter sunk washers to mount servo to it’s mount makes it much stronger with the longer screws. The pictured servo horn and link is Hot Racing for Arrma Kraton and fits perfectly it will be getting replaced when I get my Tekno aluminum horn. The good thing about these servos is there is no internal stop so you can position the horn wherever it needs to be.

 

[Lynny]

Electronics in and drivetrain done I use these Yokomo shim sets for the wheel hex’s part# ZC-S80S there is three different thicknesses. There is ten of each size and they are 8by10.

I put an o-ring around the motor to help support it since you can only use 3mm mounting screws and it holds the esc switch in place. I am running a Team Corally max8 esc hobbystar 2000 kv 4076 motor and a 16 tooth Tekno pinion gear and Nitro Hobbies twin 30mm high speed aluminum fans nice thing is I can plug the fans directly into the receiver.

 

[Lynny]

When building shocks be sure to lubricate the oring in the spring preload adjustment the first one I put on I didn’t think I was going to be able to get it back off they are very tight.

 

[Lynny]

For paint I used Tamiya metallic blue ps-16 and backed it with white ps-1 first time I have trimmed and painted a body.

Until my Tekno goodies come I am using GPM wheel nuts off one of my Kratons and hobbystar wing washers for tires I got two sets of backflip lps a set of 6s backflips and a set of copperhead 2 there is enough suspension travel to run the bigger tires and still have chassis slap found some Velcro for the edges of the body. I also have a Hobbystar 4092 I’ll throw in it at some point this truck will only be run on 6s.

 

[Lynny]

I already had this together before I ever thought about a build thread for the differentials I am running 50k front 20k rear and around 200000 center it’s a mixture of 100k and 500k. I was able to get 1 shim in the front and rear diffs and for shocks I am running the kit 700 in the front and Losi 50w in the rear I’ll be adding Tekno orange springs to the front the 6s batts way it down.

Now I need to get back to my ground up custom Kraton build.

 

[EngenZerO]

Looks great!

 

[Ifti]

NIce build!!

 

[Lynny]

Looks great!

Thank you it was a fun build for sure I will be adding more Teknos to the fleet.

 

[Lynny]

NIce build!!

I watched all you’re build videos Ifti they where a help for sure thanks for the effort you put in to them. Did you pick up the hardened steel spur just wondering if you had the same problem I did with getting the bearing on I had to polish the heck out of mine.

 

[Ifti]

I watched all you’re build videos Ifti they where a help for sure thanks for the effort you put in to them. Did you pick up the hardened steel spur just wondering if you had the same problem I did with getting the bearing on I had to polish the heck out of mine.View attachment 6638View attachment 6639

Yes I picked up the same spur - hasn't arrived yet, but I have no polishing machine like you so I'm hoping yours was a one off!!!!
I'll report back when it arrives!!

 

[EngenZerO]

I watched all you’re build videos Ifti they where a help for sure thanks for the effort you put in to them. Did you pick up the hardened steel spur just wondering if you had the same problem I did with getting the bearing on I had to polish the heck out of mine.View attachment 6638View attachment 6639

I can try to check mine later tonight. It just showed up a day ago but I have opened up my ET48 2.0… busy finishing up work before leaving for a vacation tomorrow. My kit is just sitting there taunting me.

 

[QuarantineRC]

I had a really tight fit on the included Spur, Steel spur came a day later so swapped it right out.
My plastic Spur was 8.00mm on the nose, at least After I put a bearing on/off.
I didn't measure steel one but it was a perfect fit, snuggly pressed on with both thumbs.

What is the purpose of the Yokomo shims? Just to minimize any slop between wheel hex and bearing?

 

[Lynny]

I had a really tight fit on the included Spur, Steel spur came a day later so swapped it right out.
My plastic Spur was 8.00mm on the nose, at least After I put a bearing on/off.
I didn't measure steel one but it was a perfect fit, snuggly pressed on with both thumbs.

What is the purpose of the Yokomo shims? Just to minimize any slop between wheel hex and bearing?

Yes they go behind the wheel hex and in front of the bearing so there is no movement in and out of the axle. Picture is Arrma parts just so you get the idea.

Just make sure you don’t go to tight I like the Yokomo shim sets because they come in three different thicknesses where most shims only have 0.10 and 0.20 . I already had my axles together and threadlocked I think I got 0.30 in the front and 0.20 in the rear. Hopefully my spur was a one off and no one else has the problem I did glad yours fit.

 

[Lynny]

I can try to check mine later tonight. It just showed up a day ago but I have opened up my ET48 2.0… busy finishing up work before leaving for a vacation tomorrow. My kit is just sitting there taunting me.

You will love it will be worth the wait hopefully my spur was a one off deal but there was no way that bearing was going to fit without removing some material.

 

[Lynny]

Yes I picked up the same spur - hasn't arrived yet, but I have no polishing machine like you so I'm hoping yours was a one off!!!!
I'll report back when it arrives!!

Ok ifti thanks.

 

[EngenZerO]

You will love it will be worth the wait hopefully my spur was a one off deal but there was no way that bearing was going to fit without removing some material.

Fingers crossed. I know my MT410 metal spur gave me no issues. Also all the parts/bearings with respect or the spur are the same between the EB 48/ET 48 2.0 per the manuals

 

[Lynny]

Got some goodies today TKR 5116B wheel nuts TKR5253B aluminum double hole servo horn spare set of front or rear driveshafts and a spare front or rear differential. The driveshafts and diff I picked up on eBay and a heat sink and fan mount and fans from powerhobby

 

[Lynny]

For the servo horn I took the m3 cap head for the clamp out and used it to mount the servo horn to the servo because it uses a 2.5mm Allen key. Then I replaced the clamping screw with a longer buttonhead screw so I am using all of the threads for clamping power.