What is the best way to paint a body?

[Marius van schaik]

I only once painted and trimmed my body I was very young it turned out ok but it wasn’t the best. Any tips?

 

[monkeyboy_uk]

Make sure you clean throughly and dry with a lint free cloth or even a hairdryer on low heat.

Use a quality polycarbonate paint such as the Tamiya PS range. Don't spray if it is too cold or too humid, putting the can in some warm water can help atomize the paint.

Don't spray thick coats, you will get runs. Light coats with 15-20 minutes between will get a much nicer finish.

I'm sure there is more that other people might be able to suggest.

 

[Dpricenator]

Painting is all Prep work. The longer you take to prep the body, and get your lines right, the better that body will look. Also use multiple light coats opposed to 1 heavier coat of paint. Shake the can WELL, and clean the nozzle before you spray. You don't want a chunk of paint flying off the nozzle, onto your body.

 

[Marius van schaik]

I will be patient next time I make one

 

[Rafio]

Took me a lot of time to prepare it nicely but very happy with the result

You can also use a hairdryer between the coats to make faster.
The paint must be matte before the next coat

 

[TzuTzu77]

I've painted a few bodies, none came out great because I lose my patience fast. I suggest experimenting on spare pieces of lexan that you cut out of the body, see how colors combine and look together.
Try to keep it simple at first, don't use complex designs and be patient. Another thing I learned, paint during the day, you can see the result much better, I ruined some bodies by painting at night, they always seem to transparent when you look at them through a light bulb.

 

[L3 RC]

And make sure that you really push down the edges of your mask!!

 

[RC_User]

Some paints are easier to work with than others too. the Tamiya paint runs a lot easier than others I've used, it smells more too, but some folks prefer it. I have usually used Pactra and it is a lot more forgiving than Tamiya if it goes on thick. Not knocking the Tamiya, it just requires more light coats. I think the people will more skill than I'll ever have prefer the Tamiya. The Pactra (and i've also used spazstix- all 3 avail at my LHS) can go on like 2-3 coats versus Tamiya seems to take 5-6 if you're patient, but Tamiya is available in way more colors. i painted my lunchbox the standard tamiya yellow and put it on too thick and it ran, super bummed me out. hardly ever got runs with the pactra on 10+ bodies. i am terrible at waiting for paint to dry, i want it done NOW.

 

[Illestep3]

Im not looking foward to painting mine thays forsure , not the best painter by any means hahah

 

[Dpricenator]

I just posted this in another thread, but a decent body reamer and body scissors can be had on Amazon for pretty cheap. A 3 piece set including reamer, curved scissors, and straight scissors run $21. Those curved scissors make a huge difference when trimming out the wheel wells and such. And while a drill bit will eventually get the job done for the holes, the reamer makes life better.

https://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Bod...qid=1523368789&sr=8-2&keywords=rc+body+reamer

Also, get the body mounted before you paint. Then tape over the holes from the outside, before you paint. I bought a prepainted grave digger body and had a heck of a time figuring out where to put the holes. Ended up using a little kit that had magnets, making it eaier for me to mark where the holes should be.

 

[Charlie Hall]

If you have already painted the body before drilling the mounting holes, put a little tape on the body in the general area of the post hole, then a dab paint or sharpie on the post, then carefully set the body in position (this may take few tries) and the paint/marker should transfer to the tape. Then drill where the marks are.

 

[KevBar40]

I’ve used liquid mask before. It’s pretty awesome stuff but you have to be careful when cutting it with an exacto knife not to score deep. Otherwise you may get weak spots in the body where it will crack.

 

[soze]

Biggest difference makers I've found are careful prep work and patience/taking your time between coats. Huge difference when you rush vs. taking your time.

 

[TBuggy]

Haven't graduated past rattle cans but with a little patience you can get some decent results.
I have a weird obsession ATM with trying to paint the carbon fiber look. Getting better each time IMO.

 

[142Racing]

I only once painted and trimmed my body I was very young it turned out ok but it wasn’t the best. Any tips?

Wash body really good with dish soap or some degreaser. Heat body slightly with hairdryer. Soak paint cans in hot water. Scuff body also with very fine sponge (not steel wool lol). Light coats....and PATIENCE

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I am far from pro, but what I have learned - (most of this I picked up from real pros

-I suck with tape, it always bleeds, no matter how I put it down. Liquid mask works great, though. I brush on 2-3 thick coats. Have not tried to airbrush it on yet. Wait till it drys clear between coats.
-NEW exacto blade is critical for trimming the mask. If you drop your razor, get a new blade.
-I bought a new exacto handle, and cut it down to 2" - makes it much easier to use inside the body.

Other than that, I just rattle can, thin coats, hair dryer between coats.

Oh, and if you want deep saturated colors, when you are done, shoot a coat of black at the end - AKA "Back with Black". If you want bright colors that pop, back with white.

 

[bigdaddy7483]

I cut the body out and mount it. Then scuff up where paint will go with scotchbrite. Then wash with Dawn soap and rinse. Dry with a towel and be careful not to touch where you will paint as you will leave oils behind. Then put on 3-4 coats of Bob Dively liquid mask. Draw designs and very lightly cut out along the drawn on lines. Start with the darkest colors first and end with the lighest colors. Back colors with white or black depending on what effect you want. It's not a hard process but is fun.

 

[cadon78]

I cut the body out and mount it. Then scuff up where paint will go with scotchbrite. Then wash with Dawn soap and rinse. Dry with a towel and be careful not to touch where you will paint as you will leave oils behind. Then put on 3-4 coats of Bob Dively liquid mask. Draw designs and very lightly cut out along the drawn on lines. Start with the darkest colors first and end with the lighest colors. Back colors with white or black depending on what effect you want. It's not a hard process but is fun.

When you scuff it with the scotchbrite did it leave any scratches or negative effects afterwards?

 

[Pauly]

When you scuff it with the scotchbrite did it leave any scratches or negative effects afterwards?

I use 000 steel wool and do the same. The scuffs are filled in by the paint and never seen again. Just don't scuff anything like windows you want to leave clear. Also don't scuff anything you'll be painting with Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. Found that out the hard way! Lol

 

[cadon78]

I use 000 steel wool and do the same. The scuffs are filled in by the paint and never seen again. Just don't scuff anything like windows you want to leave clear. Also don't scuff anything you'll be painting with Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. Found that out the hard way! Lol

In regards to the mirror chrome do you mean as a color or as a backer like for a candy?