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Thornhill Kingpin Camber Mod

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I’ve seen this “Thornhill Kingpin Camber Mod” on a couple of driver’s setup sheets like Jared Wiggins; I was wondering the benefit of the kit? Here is the link below:

https://www.teamthornhillrc.com/Tekno-NBEB48-20-Kingpin-Camber-Mod_p_57.html
I was wondering the same thing, the kit is out of stock, but I wonder if it's all that hard to make yourself, didn't look like a lot of parts? I think some of the guys were hoping that Tekno would have there own kit for this. I just found this info for the eb.
Screenshot_20210704-063407_Samsung Internet Beta.jpg
 
I ran the mod myself before I switched brands, I found it very helpful in a wide range of conditions from loose pack fluff, to low grip hard pack as well as hard pack high grip in both wet and dry conditions.

It's not the only mod that is recommended, but a series of mods that when all combined together will make a very well rounded platform.

more info here:
 
i built my own KPI mod because nobody in europe seems to be selling the thornhill stuff.
for me the story was kinda like that (i am a nitro guy and just sometimes run ebuggy):

ran the EB 2.0-> was good. good feeling, decent pace. easy to drive. (i have to say i run very heavy batteries wich helped in the easy to drive department i think)

then i ran my new NB 2.0-> it was off, just strange. the rear was locked in.
But the front end felt just wrong for me. It was nervous and twitchy and suddenly lost all traction if i pushed too hard and the car just pushed mid corner, massive understeer.. not a tiny bit, it pushed and pushed till i hit the brake hard.
with 15degree caster i had a bit more steering wich i needed but it became even more nervous and twitchy for me.

then i hacked together my own KPI mod, and boy oh boy the car instantly was on the same page as me.
the front end had grip, it turned and held it´s path through a turn. no joke i was somewhere between 1 and 3 seconds faster depending on the track and it felt much easier to drive.

as i tried to understand why this is, i figured out that my EB has a much more front biased weight distribution with my heavy batteries than the NB. and my EB is heavier in general.
i think this is a big reason why i didn´t really need the mod on the EB but can´t go without it on the NB
 
I was wondering the same thing, the kit is out of stock, but I wonder if it's all that hard to make yourself, didn't look like a lot of parts? I think some of the guys were hoping that Tekno would have there own kit for this. I just found this info for the eb.
View attachment 7157
i actually did my own, for the buggy i used
TKR9050 buggy rear turnbuckles..(first i had some random xray 808 ones from the old parts box)
the inner plastic is wich comes with the kit´s as option for more droop
xray 353152 is the outer plastic ball joint i used.
the balls itself i used old odonnell ones and driled them 4mm for m4 screw, but i think tekno or xray balls could work also.
the bearings in the hub are stock and i think i used JQ steering bushings wich i filed down a bit to fit into the bearing. just beacuse they had the perfect lenght allready. i think a lot of 1/8 steering bushings have the possibility to fit if you shorten and/or thin them with a file.
then i just bought the m4 screws in correct lenght. in my case 22mm as far as i remember.

it works perfectly fine and the rims just slightly rub if you run full droop sometimes, not an issue. have to replace the xray outer plastics at some point.. but on mine i allready ran like 3gallons and they look worse on the pictures than they really are.

so this was my europe way to avoid high import costs and missing stock of the thornhill mod.
for me it was not expensive because i had a lot of those parts laying around in the parts "graveyard"
 

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i actually did my own, for the buggy i used
TKR9050 buggy rear turnbuckles..(first i had some random xray 808 ones from the old parts box)
the inner plastic is wich comes with the kit´s as option for more droop
xray 353152 is the outer plastic ball joint i used.
the balls itself i used old odonnell ones and driled them 4mm for m4 screw, but i think tekno or xray balls could work also.
the bearings in the hub are stock and i think i used JQ steering bushings wich i filed down a bit to fit into the bearing. just beacuse they had the perfect lenght allready. i think a lot of 1/8 steering bushings have the possibility to fit if you shorten and/or thin them with a file.
then i just bought the m4 screws in correct lenght. in my case 22mm as far as i remember.

it works perfectly fine and the rims just slightly rub if you run full droop sometimes, not an issue. have to replace the xray outer plastics at some point.. but on mine i allready ran like 3gallons and they look worse on the pictures than they really are.

so this was my europe way to avoid high import costs and missing stock of the thornhill mod.
for me it was not expensive because i had a lot of those parts laying around in the parts "graveyard"
very cool, I like the idea of trying to do these things on your own with spare parts. I assume you found it better as you kept it on there. Is there a way you would describe the difference in feel or performance?

Thank you.
 
You can also use XRay ball stud PN:352656 and a 4x10x4mm bearing, that's what I'm currently doing on my EB and ET.
 
very cool, I like the idea of trying to do these things on your own with spare parts. I assume you found it better as you kept it on there. Is there a way you would describe the difference in feel or performance?

Thank you.
well i can only talk for the buggy. but for me it just calmed the front end down in initial steering response, but i can still run dremeled c-hubs and removed steering stop screw and it is still very easy to manage the front end.
for my driving style i can push the car much harder in corners without loosing front end grip.
so i got a ton of steering because of the dremeled c-hubs and removed stop screw, but it is very easy to control the steering because it feels calmer
 
well i can only talk for the buggy. but for me it just calmed the front end down in initial steering response, but i can still run dremeled c-hubs and removed steering stop screw and it is still very easy to manage the front end.
for my driving style i can push the car much harder in corners without loosing front end grip.
so i got a ton of steering because of the dremeled c-hubs and removed stop screw, but it is very easy to control the steering because it feels calmer
Wow okay that sounds like a really worthwhile mod, I wonder why Tekno hasn't released a kit of their own to address this?
 
Wow okay that sounds like a really worthwhile mod, I wonder why Tekno hasn't released a kit of their own to address this?
i am pretty sure they will release it at some point if i had to guess..
this mod is a big one in my oppinion. even some top tier tekno pro´s are running it.
it is not an upgrade in the classic sense, it is an option, it depends how you like the car to feel.
the difference is definetly obvious to feel.
 
I have this mod and it seems to work but have not got much driving time yet. One word of caution is to be very easy putting the screw in to the plastic spindle as it can strip very easily. I added the grub screws to help hold the long screw in. I have heard complaints of the screws pulling out also.
 
Interesting the first version of the ET48 2.0 manual showed part number TKR9046 the the vertical ball stud for this mod. The 2nd version of the manual this part has been eliminated. Too bad as it makes it easier to use an oem part.
 
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Interesting the first version of the ET48 2.0 manual showed part number TKR9046 the the vertical ball stud for this mod. The 2nd version of the manual this part has been eliminated. Too bad as it makes it easier to use an oem part.
Unfortunately TKR9046 did not meet our standards for durability and we decided against putting it into production. The manual with it pictured was an earlier version and was put up on the site by accident.
 

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