48 2.0 TBuggy's EB48 2.0

[TBuggy]

Finally....

Not the best paint job but it will work. The window masking that came with this LFR body wrinkled up once I started painting causing some bleed through. IMO its not the most ideal window masking and if I had known it was going to behave like it did I would not have used it and just masked it myself with painter tape....lesson learned there.

I also have the stock body all painted up. I still need to cut it out and peel the outer masking off. Will probably not run this one until I destroy the LFR body.

 

[TBuggy]

Warning!!

If you continue reading this post and you are still waiting for your EB48 2.0 to show up then it will not ease your anticipation any.

Read ahead at your own discretion;

I got to take this new buggy out for just one battery today and long story short I just wish I had given myself more time with this amazing buggy! I will be gearing up to go out again tomorrow if the weather behaves and my expectations will be fulfilled!

This buggy is night and day different to drive than the previous generations. This thing is so settled I was amazing myself at the control I was able to have with this machine! I love it! Everything right now is box setup, except for the body and honestly after the one pack if I was to change anything it would just be to maybe up the center diff oil and maybe some stiffer springs, since I have some big jumps and one with a flat landing. Even with stock springs though this thing was so planted and when it landed there was almost no bounce at all! This was something that was super hard for me to get the .3 to do especially on the big flat landings.

I will definitely report more as I get more time with this buggy but I am pretty sure that I have a new favorite!

 

[Ifti]

Oh well thats just great. Fantastic.
Yes you did warn me not to read, but I read it anyways!

Man, so badly want it to turn up now!!!!

Was the above run with the lower profile wing mount too? Do you think this made a big difference?

 

[TBuggy]

I have not switched it out, but will after a couple more runs so I can get a comparison.
Weather is looking great so I should be able to get a bunch of packs through it over the weekend!

I am super stoked, it was so much more "relaxed" in comparison but at the same time super responsive on and off throttle.

I will continue to run it box stock for a moment and then start playing with the diff oils and maybe springs after that.

 

[Ifti]

Sweet!
Would be interested to hear how much of a difference the wing mount makes

 

[RustyUs]

....Everything right now is box setup, except for the body and honestly after the one pack if I was to change anything it would just be to maybe up the center diff oil and maybe some stiffer springs, since I have some big jumps and one with a flat landing. Even with stock springs though this thing was so planted and when it landed there was almost no bounce at all! This was something that was super hard for me to get the .3 to do especially on the big flat landings.

I will definitely report more as I get more time with this buggy but I am pretty sure that I have a new favorite!

The box setup is a great compromise for rough track and flat landings IMO. I'm so glad the kit came with the 550/500 cSt oil for the shocks, and not what's printed in the manual.

Curious to know what your flat landings consist of. Sending the 2.0 into the air 4½'~5' maximum height, and flat landing it...that's about all my track and ramps can dish out for the buggy.

 

[TBuggy]

I would say the flat landing I am talking about can be from about 6+ feet.

 

[TBuggy]

Well was having a blast at the track the other day but after looking at my buggy at the end of my outing I realized I had lost one of the front spindle axles. I have no idea when it had happened I didn't even notice the buggy driving weird. Luckily parts came in today and we will get this thing back on the track now.

Funny thing, I made sure to clean off the grub screws before I applied thread lock on them but I did not clean out the holes in the spindle carriers. This time everything was cleaned out thoroughly and then thread lock re-applied to all of the grub screws and will keep a closer eye on them during the next few runs to make sure they are staying tight.

Also added some more color and sticker to make it faster!

 

[Ifti]

Threw in some electronics to get this thing moving. I know I skipped the shock section and will get that posted up shortly. But assembly is not any different than the last generation shocks.
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Swapped electronics from other buggy for now.
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Was able to get the switch in a similar location as the .3 I was running.
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What did you use to stick the ESC down onto the plastic plate?
Double sided sticky pads??

I have some 'Gorilla Tape', which is double sided and around 1mm thick. Its a soft gel type finish so should give some good protection. Only downside is the stuff sticks solid, so not sure I'd ever get it off again....lol

 

[TBuggy]

I have always had good luck using two layers of the Scotch outdoor mounting tape.

Thats how I did this buggy and so far so good.

 

[TBuggy]

Buggy still going strong! I really like this thing compared to the older generations it is way easier to drive (not that I had a problem with the previous ones) but this is on another level! I am able to push it harder and still maintain the control I expect to have!

My biggest gripe at the moment is the bearings. Mine are already showing signs of wear and I think I will be trying to clean and or replace them already. IMO its a little premature, especially since it's never even seen water.

I almost wonder if they went with a different source this time for bearings. The quality seems less than previous Tekno bearings.

An action shot from the track...not the best quality pic though.

 

[TBuggy]

So I was having motor issues the other day. Pulled things apart when I got home cause I had suspected possible bearing failure...but I found this instead!

I would be mad but this motor is over 3 years old and has seen a lot of track time (in my old EB48.3), I like to think I got my money out of this one.

Instead of going with another Tekin I picked up a couple HW options. I picked up the standard 1900kv and then found an insane deal on a 1600kv. Going to experiment a little and see which one I like more. It will also be interesting since I will be able to run the motors in full censored mode now and am interested to see if there is a big difference or not from when I ran the tekin.

 

[Billl DeLong]

A lot of guys are switching to 1600KV on 4S at Thornhill lately, I've got one on order myself and can't wait to make the switch... they are adding a little timing/boost but they say the throttle response is a lot smoother and wider range to make it easier to control and "feel" like having more traction in the chicanes.

 

[TBuggy]

The 1900kv Tekin was getting hotter than it would in my .3. I think the 1600kv will be interesting to run and look forward to comparing them. I imagine it will run a lot cooler...its amp draw is way less according to the HW specs 2.8 vs 4.5

Not sure how I will gear the 1600kv yet but I have 15-19t pinions to try. I imagine I will want to run a little bit larger pinion probably start with a 17t and go from there.

@Billl DeLong do you recall what pinion the people are running with 1600kv vs 1900kv. I was running a 16t with the 1900kv.

 

[Billl DeLong]

Nobody local (running 1600KV) is posting any setups so I don't know yet.

1900 / 1600 = 18.75% reduction

so 16T + 18.75% = 19T pinion to get comparable top speed, but I'm thinking 18T with some boost might be better perhaps... just a guess.

 

[TBuggy]

My track doesn't have any large straights, I can reduce top speed and it would probably benefit anyways.

 

[Jared wagner]

Well I was able to get my hands on one of these recently and figured I would share my build experiences, tips and part differences.

This will be a very picture heavy thread for your viewing pleasures.

It starts with a box in a box!
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Whats inside you ask!?
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More coming soon!

I got the nb48 2.0 And it’s awesome.

 

[TBuggy]

Its been a minute since I posted any updates. I wish I could select a couple options when it comes to surface and traction. My track is probably considered both bumpy and rutted (depending how long its been since maintenance) and traction can be anywhere to low to medium (depends on weather situation).

I have been working on my setup when I get the chance and so for this is what I came with. I think I am a few adjustments away from being right where I want it. I will probably be getting some lighter roll bars, mess with the roll center using rear hub adjustments and possibly play with the kick up and anti squat adjustments a little more as well.

I was going to try and do a few laps today but we got an unexpected rain over night and I will have to wait for some dryer weather. I have a go pro now that I am itching to try out and wanted to record a few laps as soon as I can get back out there.

 

[TBuggy]

I have been running the Hobbywing 1600kv now and I have to say for a tracks the size as the one I run at, it is a nice way to go. I am running the buggy with an 18t currently but will be dropping down to a 17t since I still have my throttle dialed back with the 18t.

Now yes, my buggy isn't as fast on a straight as the guys with a 1900kv but with the tracks current layout this doesn't really matter and have no problem keeping pace or setting the pace!

 

[RIPMANDIRT]

On to the bulk heads. These went together very similar to the previous generations. There were some obvious updates that look to be some great improvements!

The bags;
View attachment 4103

The aluminum parts for all the steps are in a separate bag and you will need to look for the parts designated for the steps in there.

Contents of bulkhead bags;

Front
View attachment 4104

Rear
View attachment 4105

These go together just like the old bulkheads. I tried to use a shim but the fitment was so nice I couldn't even get one in.

Always remember to clean residue oils from the factory off of the screw before applying thread lock. This one that attaches to the diff couplers are extremely important, cause you don't want these coming loose during a run.
View attachment 4106


When installing the tower leave these screw out until you mount the wing mount.
View attachment 4108


I suggest inserting these nuts into the slots of the tower prior to screwing the wing mount on and you won't need a nut driver or wrench to hold the nut still while you tighten the screws.
View attachment 4110

Once I was happy with the fitment of the diffs in the bulkheads I applied some grease from the the "trap door" on the bottom.
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I have been using white lithium grease for these gears.
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The shock mounts have been updated and now have a very convenient spot for a wrench to hold while you tighten them down. Nice touch Tekno!
View attachment 4109

Completed bulkheads

Rear
View attachment 4113

Front
View attachment 4114

Great tip

The diffs ultimately went together exactly like any other Tekno diff does. Since the center, front and rear diffs essentially go together the same, I figure there is no need to go into detail on all 3 diffs.

This is my method;

I start by greasing up the groove in the outdrive shaft and also on both the diff and spur/ring gears.
View attachment 4055

Then I start building a "parfait" per say. Grease, o-ring, grease, metal washer.
View attachment 4056
View attachment 4057
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Once I am at this point I shove the greased outdrive into the spur/ring gear and diff cases (not forgetting to install the bearings first! With the grease the pushes through I wipe off and dab it on a gasket that will be used (no need to waste it).

View attachment 4059
View attachment 4062

Now I install the pins that hold the outdrives in place. The diff and ring gears are super simple. The diff cases are I guess a touch easier than the old diffs due to being bigger otherwise its the same technique. Line up the hole in the outdrive with the grove in the diff case and then you have plenty of room using some long nose needle nose pliers to reach down and push the pin into place.
View attachment 4060
View attachment 4061

Now I drop one of the sun gears into the diff case and fill with oil to just cover the gear.
View attachment 4065

While that is sitting I take my blade and spin it around in both sides of each planetary gear. This is to "de-bur" the gears and makes sure that they spin as free as possible.
View attachment 4063
View attachment 4064

Then assemble the cross pins making sure that when I drop the cross pins and planetary gears they are still seated correctly. Then I fill with oil again this time just above the top of the planetary gears. I then slowly rotate the gears so that any bubbles under them are freed up and can escape.
View attachment 4066

I drop in the second sun gear and top off with oil as needed. Then the diff sits while I work on the others, giving time for as many air bubbles to escape as possible.
View attachment 4067

Once I get them all to the above step, I wipe down the first diff I started with my thumb to make sure that there is the perfect amount of diff oil.
View attachment 4068
View attachment 4069

I continue on with the first diff to allow the other to rest as long as possible. Using that extra grease I had I spread it on both sides of the gasket before putting it in place.
View attachment 4070

Before placing the gear into the diff case I line up the pins with the holes (its just an easy point of reference to use) and then on the diff case rotate the outdrive so that the slot for the pin is line up in the same manor. If you do this and even get it close you can usually just wiggle it in place.
View attachment 4071

I like to use my little hook tool for lining up the holes, but many things will work in its place.
View attachment 4072

Then I tighten all the screws down alternating so that the gear and the case seat evenly.
View attachment 4073

Then repeat the final step with the rest of the diffs.
View attachment 4074

Great tip de-buring the planetary gears I use a older whole reamer on mine. Many ways to skin a cat!