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Mounting the switch

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Skynet5

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Some might have seen my post about my ripped esc switch.

I've redone my fix to ensure I have heat shrink around the 4 separate wires. A little bulky, but at least working and secure.

I've trying to figure the best orientation of the switch with my new found switch length.

Thoughts?
 

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Do you know if you can hard wire the outer red and black and put a momentary switch between the other red and white for calobration? I could pretty much get rid of the bulk of the switch and the thick cable I've produced. Although it doesn't look too bad I suppose.
 
@TBuggy was that a yes, that's how the 4 wire switch, just before I rip them all off. Lol
 
Do you know if you can hard wire the outer red and black and put a momentary switch between the other red and white for calobration? I could pretty much get rid of the bulk of the switch and the thick cable I've produced. Although it doesn't look too bad I suppose.

I imagine you could add another on/off switch if you wanted to. Why would you want another switch though?
 
Well, based on my disaster with the cable I was hoping to get rid of the switch altogether and perhaps just have a small switch off the esc for calibration, and have it powered up when the batteries are connected. I have 4cm of cable out of the esc to play with.

It's all working, but the cable is pretty thick, you see the red, blue, red heatshrink. I guess I live with it and try and orientate the button in the back left hand side in such a way that the the extra wire is wrapped somewhere.
 
I like to use a small dab of hot glue to hold the wires down to the chassis when I route them like you have. I don't like floppy wires in my cars especially around rotating parts.
 
I like to use a small dab of hot glue to hold the wires down to the chassis when I route them like you have. I don't like floppy wires in my cars especially around rotating parts.
Hot glue on the metal chassis to wire, or plastic braces to wire?

I have a hot glue gun..... :)
 
just a dab between the chassis and wire will hold it in place.
 
I'm glad I'm not the only one fussing with this detail. Took me 1 day to build the entire kit. I have one month figuring out body mounting and details like switch placement.

I know the narrow chassis is all about racing, but the lack of room is a real pain in the rear.
 
just a dab between the chassis and wire will hold it in place.
I've tried hot glue. I'm not sure if there are different types, what my girlfriend has for her hobby didn't seem that strong.

I have some neutral cure silicone rubber. A dab of that and its magic.

Used to hold electronics (caps) on the pcb from vibrations.
 
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I'm glad I'm not the only one fussing with this detail. Took me 1 day to build the entire kit. I have one month figuring out body mounting and details like switch placement.

I know the narrow chassis is all about racing, but the lack of room is a real pain in the rear.
yes silicone works well too just takes longer to cure.
Decided exactly as per my picture. Just stuck the button down with VHB and some neutral cure on the wire by the battery brace to stop it lifting up hitting the out drive of the centre dif.

Can definitely recommend butt slices as a quick and seemingly durable way to extend the cable. Soldering wasn't great on such thin wire for me.

Looks alright actually.
 
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