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ESC switches....where/how are you mounting them???

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TBuggy

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET410
  4. SCT410
Like the title says...where/how are you mounting your ESC switches??

This is something I have struggled with since day one! I am always less than satisfied with what I end up with. I recently install a new ESC (HW XR8 plus) in my EB48.3 and it has to have the biggest switch of any ESC I have installed to date!! Anyways I was just wondering how people have coped with this issue. To me its always a struggle/balance between the length of wire to switch and good/safe spot to install for easy access.

I will get some pics posted shortly of what I have come up in a few of my rigs, but just wondering what other folks are doing as well.

Thanx!!
 
I agree it can be kind of annoying trying to find a good place. I have mine double sided taped to my esc. Since its so small there isn't much tape. My switch has screw holes so I might try to screw it down into something plastic instead but extra space is very limited on teknos...
 
This is the EB48.3 with HW XR8 plus and I actually like the end result now but it took me a while to decide this on this location.
EB48.3 switch.JPG

SCT works because there is plenty of room under the hood.
SCT410.3 switch.JPG

This is how I had my MMX switches...just coiled around one of the battery wires.
MMX switch.JPG

Orion R10 in the EB410 has a long enough wire to reach an empty spot in the rear.
EB410 switch.JPG

For the switch on the tekin ESC. I super glued a plastic nut to the mud guard and then screwed and double sticky taped the switch.
EB410 switch#2.JPG
 
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I just use a small dab of shoe goo or clear silicone to stick the switches in place.
 
I have been using dbl sided tape and it tends to work just fine as far as keeping things in place. I guess locations and or small mods to accommodate mounting the switch is more what i want to hear from people.

On aside note I never thought of using silicon...does it hold them in place for a long period of time?
 
Yes it does...clear silicone caulk or sealer in the little tubes. Gorilla glue makes a good clear silicone that doesn’t dry too hard and can be easily removed.
 
Drilled and tapped the hole on the steering plate, countersunk a piece of Kydex and used a m4x6 bolt to hold it down (Sits flush with the steering plate so it doesn't hit the arm). 3M Double lock velcro on the Power switch. Even with the Alum rod i use for a tower to tower brace it is easily accessible.
Tekno MT410 Final 004 Pwr Plt.JPG
Tekno MT410 All Done 004.JPG
 
Thats exactly what I am talking about! That is a great idea for mounting the switch! That the same location I have my on the my SCT but I didn't put a little tab in place to stick it to.

May have to take that idea from you, thanx for posting your pics.
 
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Very clean looking install @Cmbscx10
 
Thats exactly what I am talking about! That is a great idea for mounting the switch! That the same location I have my on the my SCT but I didn't put a little tab in place to stick it to.

May have to take that idea from you, thanx for posting your pics.

I shoe goo'd my mounting tab to the steering top plate. You need that hole that CMB used for the body mount on the buggy, but you know that already.:)
 
I usually use double sided clear tape, so far so good.
 
I have my switches mounted on the esc tray next to the esc. My buddy has his actually mounted to the side of his esc.
 
I have my switches mounted on the esc tray next to the esc. My buddy has his actually mounted to the side of his esc.

I have mounted them that way also.

I can just appreciate some really clean looking wiring/electronic layout when looking at RC's thats another reason I brought this thread to life, I guess.
 
I can just appreciate some really clean looking wiring/electronic layout when looking at RC's thats another reason I brought this thread to life, I guess.

You would probably cringe if you were to see my wiring then lol

It’s on the list of things to do though. For starters I need a 3” ESC extension over the 6” I have in there now.
 
Quick Tip: For those of you with a slide switch, make sure you mount it so the "On position" is towards the front of the vehicle, so nose down impacts does not turn the vehicle off... been their done that :)
 
Quick Tip: For those of you with a slide switch, make sure you mount it so the "On position" is towards the front of the vehicle, so nose down impacts does not turn the vehicle off... been their done that :)

I made this mistake too. The switch on my MMX came out of the box in the “on” position so I ended up mounting it backwards...
 
I redid my layout tonight put my switch in a new location....and it’s turned the right way now lol. I think it’s in a good spot but the wires are really close to my front drive shaft which I’m not too comfortable withZ. Any suggestions for protecting it?

668D0132-181A-4E76-8E83-6F01DB741AE8.jpeg
92A8AA85-3F29-4BC9-B4F3-409A770E65E8.jpeg
0B7F4514-FD24-41B5-9BC5-F30B1DE13C2B.jpeg
 
Also, anyone wanting to cut and remove the sticker from the bottom of the MMX, use the picture I have here as a guide.

I cut the sticker along the perimeter of the MMX body using the edge as a guide. Basically, I turned my x-acto blade on its side, worked it under the sticker amd ran it down the length of the edge and used the 90 degree bend as my cutting position.

If I would have known how the sticker is glued I wouldn’t have done it this way. I would cut it and remove a “square” from the center while leaving the glued portion of the sticker there.

Hopefully this pic makes it easier to understand what I am saying.

BF581364-A93D-4E07-B752-0BD0811B50F3.jpeg
 
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Mongoose have you tried rotating the esc 180 too get the wires for the r/x and servo away from the shaft side and have the motor too esc wires on inside of car?... or does the esc not fit in that configuration?...

Also castle uses that sticker as a way too help hold the two halves together unlike hobbywing where the two halves are screwed together, you may have too zip tie the esc down now I learned the hard way and had a castle mm esc come apart, then the cpu board shorted out when it hit bare metal
 

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