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Gluing tires is a pita

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cadon78

Detachable Member
Messages
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Location
Riverside, Ca
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
This is my first time flying tires to wheels and I am definitely not very good at it LOL! Also it doesn’t help that the JConcepts “thin” tire glue is not thin at all. It might as well be called sludge. I ended up finishing up with some Zap thin CA. I’m hoping they will hold up.

C119C290-0E94-4FB9-A33D-8CC2A23BB85D.jpeg013322CB-A07E-410A-B6E6-0F0EE1411A48.jpeg3D39ADD9-F6EF-4C2B-B2C9-C5461F02D7EC.jpeg8A41EC6D-9F99-4486-B48C-EA6CB09B29BE.jpeg

Also doesn’t help that the proline tires seem to have a crappy mold or something. The bead was not flat at all. They would not lay flat in the wheel for anythjng. Yet I also have some Sweepracing tires that sit perfect without a drop of glue put on them yet.
 
Being a wood worker myself I had all sorts of CA glues already....from thin to gel. Look into CA glues for wood working...its all the same thing. You don't have to waste money on a rebranded RC CA glue.

Check these out 2P-10, you can also get single bottles of specific viscosities. By the looks of it you could use some of their de-bonder on your fingers...LOL!

Stick fast has some good CA's.
 
i agree it is a pain... i usually use medium CA and rubber band it like you have done there after a few sets you won't get much if any on your fingers any more. use the skinny needle nozzle and get it into the bead without having to get your fingers close to it.
 
Being a wood worker myself I had all sorts of CA glues already....from thin to gel. Look into CA glues for wood working...its all the same thing. You don't have to waste money on a rebranded RC CA glue.

Check these out 2P-10, you can also get single bottles of specific viscosities. By the looks of it you could use some of their de-bonder on your fingers...LOL!

Stick fast has some good CA's.
Awesome I will definitely look into those and I am for sure done buying “tire” ca glue LOL!
 
i agree it is a pain... i usually use medium CA and rubber band it like you have done there after a few sets you won't get much if any on your fingers any more. use the skinny needle nozzle and get it into the bead without having to get your fingers close to it.

I tried to use that with the jconcepts stuff but it was so think I couldn’t even get to go through the tube. When I went over it with the zap it had a consistency like water and flowed really well. I’m hoping as I do more it will get easier LOL!
 
I tried to use that with the jconcepts stuff but it was so think I couldn’t even get to go through the tube. When I went over it with the zap it had a consistency like water and flowed really well. I’m hoping as I do more it will get easier LOL!

I've had better luck with the medium. the thin is too thin and like you said, runs like water if you get it the slightest bit out of place...
 
I've had better luck with the medium. the thin is too thin and like you said, runs like water if you get it the slightest bit out of place...
Yeah I think I need to try medium. The worst part is the jconcepts stuff says thin on the bottle. It’s no where near thin, it’s like a super thick gel.
 
I've had better luck with the medium. the thin is too thin and like you said, runs like water if you get it the slightest bit out of place...

I like the really thin stuff better. When I do it I have all my bands in place already and then just pull back a section and apply a drop. I let it flow to the next section of the rim and do the same. Usually only takes about 4-5 drops per side.
 
Yeah I think I need to try medium. The worst part is the jconcepts stuff says thin on the bottle. It’s no where near thin, it’s like a super thick gel.

Could have been an improperly stored bottle. The thin stuff will thicken up over time if not stored properly. Should keep the stuff in the fridge for the best preservation.
 
:unsure:I use the J Concepts thin and it runs like water. Must've been a bad batch I'd assume. Stuff sets almost too quick for my liking. Definitely don't wanna mess up.:LOL:
 
:unsure:I use the J Concepts thin and it runs like water. Must've been a bad batch I'd assume. Stuff sets almost too quick for my liking. Definitely don't wanna mess up.:LOL:

Hmm maybe it was a bad batch or old stock LOL! It was definitely an old lane that was falling off.
 
F63CCB28-4E35-4111-A4D4-1BCA889AD4EE.jpeg
I like the slow Zap CA. I wouldn’t call it slow, because it bonds instantly, but it doesn’t run all over the place. I slide the tire bead back to the center of the rim, full the glue socket with glue and quickly pop the bead back in place. I do this one side at a time and let the glue set up good before I do the other side. Everything I glued with thin CA came loose over time. I do still keep a bottle of it in the tool box for quick repairs at the track. Nothing has popped loose since I switched though.
 
View attachment 772I like the slow Zap CA. I wouldn’t call it slow, because it bonds instantly, but it doesn’t run all over the place. I slide the tire bead back to the center of the rim, full the glue socket with glue and quickly pop the bead back in place. I do this one side at a time and let the glue set up good before I do the other side. Everything I glued with thin CA came loose over time. I do still keep a bottle of it in the tool box for quick repairs at the track. Nothing has popped loose since I switched though.

Ooh I have some zap thin. Might have to try that one too. I have a feeling the worst part for me this time was the tires. It seems proline tires are molded a little different and are matched for their own wheels. I talked to Dave at DEracing and he also told me proline tires are an issue. However the sweep I have and aka and jconcepts he says will fit fine. I know he sweeps do, I also want to try some panther tires (mainly because they are made here in Riverside).

C953CC70-8FC2-448D-9CB7-A59E3F7C9408.jpeg A9DE60C0-5433-4FB6-88F2-F53D2E36455E.jpeg

These do not have glue on them yet and they look perfect.

So while holeshots are recommended at my local tracks I need to find the equivalent from other brands LOL!
 
I have glued up every set of tires I have owned except for the first set. None of mine have failed at the glue with the method I use (knocking on wood now after saying that of course!!).

I am sure you know this, but ts pretty important to wash your tires and rims before gluing up. There are coatings from the manufacturing process that can cause the glue to not adhere properly.

With CA less is more all you need is to have the surfaces being glued to have a very thin coat. That is also why I like the thin stuff, because it runs really well and coats very quickly. I have never had a tire come un-glued with this method, in fact the tires fail before the glue does.

These are Pro-line fugitives on DE wheels, no glue failure here. Being the fact that the rubber tore tells me this glue-up method is very efficient. I did notice the pro-lines seat slightly different as apposed to AKA or JC's, but nothing you cant get around.
IMG_3365.JPG


Of course there are a ton of ways to skin a cat but this is how I do it and maybe when I get some new wheels I will get around to posting a "how I do it" thread.
 
I have glued up every set of tires I have owned except for the first set. None of mine have failed at the glue with the method I use (knocking on wood now after saying that of course!!).

I am sure you know this, but ts pretty important to wash your tires and rims before gluing up. There are coatings from the manufacturing process that can cause the glue to not adhere properly.

With CA less is more all you need is to have the surfaces being glued to have a very thin coat. That is also why I like the thin stuff, because it runs really well and coats very quickly. I have never had a tire come un-glued with this method, in fact the tires fail before the glue does.

These are Pro-line fugitives on DE wheels, no glue failure here. Being the fact that the rubber tore tells me this glue-up method is very efficient. I did notice the pro-lines seat slightly different as apposed to AKA or JC's, but nothing you cant get around.
View attachment 777

Of course there are a ton of ways to skin a cat but this is how I do it and maybe when I get some new wheels I will get around to posting a "how I do it" thread.

Oh wow, that is definitely a tire failure LOL! If you would do a write up on how you do them that would be amazing. Also I didn’t realize less is more with CA. As you can see in my pics I apparently used too much LoL!

I have at least 2 more sets to glue up some time in the future so hopefully it will get easier LOL!
 
I have glued up every set of tires I have owned except for the first set. None of mine have failed at the glue with the method I use (knocking on wood now after saying that of course!!).

I am sure you know this, but ts pretty important to wash your tires and rims before gluing up. There are coatings from the manufacturing process that can cause the glue to not adhere properly.

With CA less is more all you need is to have the surfaces being glued to have a very thin coat. That is also why I like the thin stuff, because it runs really well and coats very quickly. I have never had a tire come un-glued with this method, in fact the tires fail before the glue does.

These are Pro-line fugitives on DE wheels, no glue failure here. Being the fact that the rubber tore tells me this glue-up method is very efficient. I did notice the pro-lines seat slightly different as apposed to AKA or JC's, but nothing you cant get around.
View attachment 777

Of course there are a ton of ways to skin a cat but this is how I do it and maybe when I get some new wheels I will get around to posting a "how I do it" thread.

I've had tires RIP like that too, that's a reason i try to avoid soft racing compounds! As a basher, I always go for medium at least if I can. I'm guessing those must be soft if not extra soft to RIP that badly?
 
I've had tires RIP like that too, that's a reason i try to avoid soft racing compounds! As a basher, I always go for medium at least if I can. I'm guessing those must be soft if not extra soft to RIP that badly?

They were X3 compound wich are their soft but extended wear compound. So somewhere between soft and medium really IMO, but yes on the softer side.
 
Ok so I read through all that link and also used a different CA today I had on hand. It’s just Zap thin CA. Much better results this time. I’m actually liking the thin way better, now that it’s actually thin consistency (like water).
CA2E4FB0-0CD8-4DB8-B57E-17B974EFB9EA.jpeg9385D9ED-CD4B-4E33-9F87-9CB55FA5D837.jpeg

Also helps that Panther tires aren’t molded all stupid like the prolines. I have more wheels on order too, since I have at least 3 more sets of tires to mount LOL!

Thank you guys all so much for your advice and help.
 

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