• Welcome to Tekno RC Forums! Are you a Tekno RC fan? If so you're in luck as you've have arrived to the biggest and best Tekno RC community.

    Come join our community and ask your questions, show off your Tekno RCs and share your experience!

Conversion: MT410 to SCT410.3 for most durable SCT?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
@KnowAir , one trick I found to work with the Tekno SCT is always accelerate on the jumps. It has something to do with compression the back springs and it jumps a lot better this way. Always accelerating before air
Makes sense, guess it's trying to rotate as it leaves the jump under acceleration, therefore keeping the nose up?
I've seen folks using the EB48 springs on the rear..
I don't have any on hand, but do have the stock springs from my TC kronos xtr. General consensus on them is they're too soft for the kronos..The fronts seem pretty close in length. I might give them a try, can always swap back if they prove too stiff.
@Hector_Fisher , I previously had told you the stock rear springs seemed fine on the sct410.3, I'm not sure now, as they seem to have broken in, they seem a bit soft now. I keep turning up the preload on them..
 
@Hector_Fisher , that SCT TBR bumper never worked for me. Beeing very long, It just kept chewing the front of my bodies every time I would nose dive (happens a lot :) ). I’m back to stock and very happy with it.

My MT410 has the TBR basher bumper that is significantly better IMO.

@KnowAir , one trick I found to work with the Tekno SCT is always accelerate on the jumps. It has something to do with compression the back springs and it jumps a lot better this way. Always accelerating before air.
Thanks. Luckily it sounds like i'm not missing on much from the TBR SCT bumper. Just missed the ship on the MT bumper. I'm satisified with the stock SCT bumpers crash protection. I guess i should clarify: i wish it was just a hair wider so the blocks would be better shielded from roots or rocks. Also I wish it wrapped underneath a bit more, offered some skid protection on the front of the chassis. I sorted out the rear of the chassis with those smaller plastic DE racing skid plates for now, but the front kickup where that edge is seems to have almost as much wear as the rear did (before putting on the skid plate). Would be nice to have the bumper just extend a little farther down to offer some skid protection.

I've considered something like these, in steel, for great durability against further wear:
https://www.sumo-racing.com/product...-tekno-eb-nt-scte-1-0-2-0-3-0-series-vehicles
I'll probably pick up a set when i get my next weekly allowance :LOL: Any other options you'd consider? Or any means you've had to solve chassis wear?
Makes sense, guess it's trying to rotate as it leaves the jump under acceleration, therefore keeping the nose up?
I've seen folks using the EB48 springs on the rear..
I don't have any on hand, but do have the stock springs from my TC kronos xtr. General consensus on them is they're too soft for the kronos..The fronts seem pretty close in length. I might give them a try, can always swap back if they prove too stiff.
@Hector_Fisher , I previously had told you the stock rear springs seemed fine on the sct410.3, I'm not sure now, as they seem to have broken in, they seem a bit soft now. I keep turning up the preload on them..
Agreed, I don't know that i can point to any specific issues i've had with the stock springs, but overall i have noticed the rear now has a hesitancy to rebound fully when just sitting idle whereas it didn't when new. So the rear end sits lower most of the time. If i equate my experience with my tekno here to the one with my Summit, they both have rear springs that very soft for the car. The summit would almost always "nose dive" on jumps. The tail end of the chassis would slap the top of the bump or jump and send it pitching forward. Thicker springs in the rear sorted quite a bit of that out, as would have some thicker shock oil if I had kept the truck longer. But like @Nicochau stated, the most reliable way to prevent that was entering the jump on power. Not easy when your truck tops out at 20mph ;) Not sure if this same case is what's happening with the tekno, but when i go to experiment with the setup eventually, it'll be the first thing I try. For now, i'm content giving it plenty of that 60mph gearing I have to correct midair :ROFLMAO:
 
Last edited:
Thanks. Luckily it sounds like i'm not missing on much from the TBR SCT bumper. Just missed the ship on the MT bumper. I'm satisified with the stock SCT bumpers crash protection. I guess i should clarify: i wish it was just a hair wider so the blocks would be better shielded from roots or rocks. Also I wish it wrapped underneath a bit more, offered some skid protection on the front of the chassis. I sorted out the rear of the chassis with those smaller plastic DE racing skid plates for now, but the front kickup where that edge is seems to have almost as much wear as the rear did (before putting on the skid plate). Would be nice to have the bumper just extend a little farther down to offer some skid protection.

There is a European alternative to TBR, check this https://shop.microspeed.de/en/pos-oktay-bumper/oktay-bumper-tekno-mt410-black-double-4-mm

You can get in touch with Gary Mangol Jr. on Facebook, he imports a lot of these products to the US.

I've considered something like these, in steel, for great durability against further wear:
https://www.sumo-racing.com/product...-tekno-eb-nt-scte-1-0-2-0-3-0-series-vehicles
I'll probably pick up a set when i get my next weekly allowance :LOL: Any other options you'd consider? Or any means you've had to solve chassis wear?

I use the Sumo Racing skids on my racing stuff. Fit is perfect.

Now if you want to go all the way, I also did this in the past https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/full-chassis-skid-protection-for-et48.1153/
 
Now if you want to go all the way, I also did this in the past https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/full-chassis-skid-protection-for-et48.1153/
This is brilliant stuff!

Definitely interested in trying something like this out. Specifically for my MT410 and Kraton (those chassis plates take the most abuse of all my trucks). I have always been more hesitant to take aluminum plate chassis' where i know they will be gouged or dented by rocks and/or concrete, but this could ease my mind some about that. As you put in your thread:
Conclusion: for those who are a bit anal about their bottom
Yes, I am very anal about my bottom ;)
 
This is brilliant stuff!

Definitely interested in trying something like this out. Specifically for my MT410 and Kraton (those chassis plates take the most abuse of all my trucks). I have always been more hesitant to take aluminum plate chassis' where i know they will be gouged or dented by rocks and/or concrete, but this could ease my mind some about that. As you put in your thread:

Yes, I am very anal about my bottom ;)
Gotta be, no one else is gonna watch it for ya!! LOL
JK, I don't worry about scratching them up myself. I been changing out shock fluids from stock on mt MT410 and KEXB to try and get better handling on the track. Some success, but what I've noticed most is how scratched up both chassis are getting since going to thinner fluids. Tells me I'm using all the travel the suspension has to offer whereas I guess I wasn't before.. maybe too thin now since I'm getting consistent chassis slap on most of the bigger stuff. Definitely faster overall though.
 
A couple thoughts on the SCT saggy rear. A common change is to go from the kit black springs to green, TKR6031. Something to keep an eye out for is free movement of the arm to inner hinge pin. If you're running in the dirt it's going to get gritty. I do the 5/32" chainsaw file in a drill occasionally to keep it loose as a goose.
 
A couple thoughts on the SCT saggy rear. A common change is to go from the kit black springs to green, TKR6031. Something to keep an eye out for is free movement of the arm to inner hinge pin. If you're running in the dirt it's going to get gritty. I do the 5/32" chainsaw file in a drill occasionally to keep it loose as a goose.
Interesting, so they get packed up with dirt? I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the tip.
Last night I pulled a rear shock off the sct410 to make a comparison between the stock Tekno and TC kronos spring, as expected, the TC spring is waay too stiff for the sct410.
What I also had in my box o springs were some Thunder Tiger Bushmaster 6s buggy springs, I had bought a complete set of take off shocks a few years back for another project that didn't pan out. The rear Bushmaster shocks are on the front of my Kaiju with stock Kaiju springs.
So the Bushmaster rear springs are much closer to what I am looking for. I'll give them a shot n see how they feel.
I know the proper thing to do is buy the appropriate Tekno springs, but I'm a low budget, close counts kinda guy. Besides, I'm running a one man race, can't loose. LOL 😉😁
 
Gotta be, no one else is gonna watch it for ya!! LOL
JK, I don't worry about scratching them up myself. I been changing out shock fluids from stock on mt MT410 and KEXB to try and get better handling on the track. Some success, but what I've noticed most is how scratched up both chassis are getting since going to thinner fluids. Tells me I'm using all the travel the suspension has to offer whereas I guess I wasn't before.. maybe too thin now since I'm getting consistent chassis slap on most of the bigger stuff. Definitely faster overall though.
Yeah I took the liberty of polishing the kraton chassis down to bare metal with some dirt and rocks ;) Who need anodization anyway??? I'm not worried about scratching, it's the deep gouging and nicks that make me cringe! Already dented the MT410 chassis (although it was at the thinner spot where the battery tray is), and the kraton chassis has some deep gouges from landing on the buried rocks we have around here (soft dirt/sand on a pointy rock). Then again, i'm mostly just jumping the kraton, no good place for a track or racing.
A couple thoughts on the SCT saggy rear. A common change is to go from the kit black springs to green, TKR6031. Something to keep an eye out for is free movement of the arm to inner hinge pin. If you're running in the dirt it's going to get gritty. I do the 5/32" chainsaw file in a drill occasionally to keep it loose as a goose.
Thanks, i figured i'd eventually experiment with springs if it really bothered me. I didn't follow the tekno instructions to the T and bore out the a-arm inner hinge pine holes like I should have. So maybe the reluctance of the shocks to fully rebound is my fault. Either way, it's not an issue right now, but good info to know for when it does.

Do you need to up shock oil wt when going to the stiffer springs, or is the stock wt sufficient?
 
I didn't ream the arms either, I find that being the frugal guy I am, I would rather get more life from the parts by not reaming them since experience has taught me these parts tend to ream themselves out..much quicker than I'd like too.
I do understand why Tekno and @nub Suggest reaming them for immediate smooth operation, and appreciate the info just the same.
 
I didn't ream the arms either, I find that being the frugal guy I am, I would rather get more life from the parts by not reaming them since experience has taught me these parts tend to ream themselves out..much quicker than I'd like too.
I do understand why Tekno and @nub Suggest reaming them for immediate smooth operation, and appreciate the info just the same.
I suspect part of the idea is smooth operation. I have often wondered if it also has to do with wear. If the hinge pin can slide independently of the arm, and the pin can also slide independently of the hinge pin blocks, then wear would likely be evenly distributed between the plastic on the arms and blocks (or pills). Whereas if one was captured, then all the wear from movement and sliding would be on the other? On my Bullet, the blocks are aluminum (albeit much thinner thank tekno's). Due to the crappy pin material, the pins would usually bend slightly within the first run and "fix" themselves into a spot on the plastic a-arm. Meaning the pin would no only pivot/slide on the blocks. With successive running off-road and the ingress of dirt and sand, the plastic a-arm never saw any wear from sliding or pivoting, but the blocks (soft aluminum) did get sloppy, wallowed out, and basically got a coarse grit sanding. Perhaps an anecdotal example, but something that seemed to piece together.

And I still didn't ream the a arms on my tekno's.... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
I suspect part of the idea is smooth operation. I have often wondered if it also has to do with wear. If the hinge pin can slide independently of the arm, and the pin can also slide independently of the hinge pin blocks, then wear would likely be evenly distributed between the plastic on the arms and blocks (or pills). Whereas if one was captured, then all the wear from movement and sliding would be on the other? On my Bullet, the blocks are aluminum (albeit much thinner thank tekno's). Due to the crappy pin material, the pins would usually bend slightly within the first run and "fix" themselves into a spot on the plastic a-arm. Meaning the pin would no only pivot/slide on the blocks. With successive running off-road and the ingress of dirt and sand, the plastic a-arm never saw any wear from sliding or pivoting, but the blocks (soft aluminum) did get sloppy, wallowed out, and basically got a coarse grit sanding. Perhaps an anecdotal example, but something that seemed to piece together.

And I still didn't ream the a arms on my tekno's.... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
You may be right, I may be crazy..but mostly, Im just lazy!!🤣🤣
I'm not gonna give the arms another thought TBH.. if I were racing (besides myself), definitely.
Besides, Tekno gave us all those spare pills for when they wear out!?🤔🤣🤣
 
I started with the kit ride height but had to preload the rear almost to the max which I didn't like. It didn't leave any room to adjust after the springs settle. I'm running 4S so it's heavier than intended if it were 2S. That's the reason I went to the green rear, so I didn't have to max out the preload. I've since switched to the low frequency springs to get the ride height down more. Still using the kit oil weights.

I'm not sure why the pin hole in the arm was made tight to be reamed. Maybe it's considered more precise to ream instead of trying to mold it. Mine were tight. I tried the drill bit and it wasn't enough. I stumbled onto the files at Home Depot. I think it was like 7 bones for a pack of 2. Do your MT410 also if you get them.


 

Recent Popular Liked

Back
Top