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Conversion: MT410 to SCT410.3 for most durable SCT?

Hector_Fisher

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Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
  2. SCT410
Came over from the Arrmaforum as I figured this was a better place to ask.

I have my MT410 and it's wonderfully durable and precise to drive. I'm considering a SCT410.3 which I would be running on 4s for street bashing, dirt lot bashing, and occasional trips to the local track for open laps, no sanctioned racing. But when i look at the parts list for the SCT410.3 vs MT410 it leaves some to be desired. The frustration arises when noticing that the MT410 kit is typically only $50 more than the SCT410.3 kit, and that some of the MT410 parts are beefed up and set up for better durability/bashing. It makes me wish i could just buy an MT410 and convert it to a SCT410.3. Which leads me to consider one of two "conversions":

1) Buy a SCT410.3 and add:
-TKR5570-17, 17mm hub adapter set (i have a slew of spare 17mm buggy and street tires i have that i'll be using)
-TKR5161 and TKR 5162, aluminum "A" and "B" blocks, hinge pin brace (anticipating breakages based on a friends experience)
-TKR5211, MT410 motor mount (or similar) to allow 40mm motors (that's the spare system I have that i'd like to use)
Downsides are: compatibility issues with motor mounts?, less beefy components (plastic ackerman plate, rear blocks, plastic diff cross pin?)
Total cost around $472 for the kit.

2) Buy a MT410 and add (from what i can tell):
-TKR5515 and TKR5516 (SCT a-arms) $32 total
-TKR5123 x3 (SCT turnbuckles) $28 total
-TKR5572 x2 (SCT driveshafts) $44 total
-TKR6856 x 2 (CV rebuild kit) $18 total
I'd plan to use all other existing components as is if possible (still checking dimensions on some things).
Downsides are: potential compatibilities issues such as driveshaft and CV rebuild, right height issues with MT shocks?, any other missing parts?, I'm not expecting it to drive as dialed in as a stock SCT410.3.
Total ballpark cost is $492 for the kit and conversion parts. But also some payback: spares for the my current MT410 from removed parts (driveshafts, a-arms, turnbuckles, etc).

Looking for your thoughts and wisdom! Are the "less beefy" components on the SCT410 kit worth fretting over? Are the "beefy" components on the MT410 worth desiring?
 
Last edited:

sandblaster

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Oregon
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
One is a racer, the other is a basher. Our track closed, now using the sct as a light duty back yard basher. For big stuff and more space use the mt410. I would build the sct per instructions and run it. Upgrade as things fail. Replaced the racing motor in the sct with the same motor in the mt. Works great for learning air control of ramp in back yard. Would not use it for hard bashing. Why? the mt is built for that and does a great job. Maybe you should look at the ET. Racer and a good basher as well. If you want the sct to be a mt, then invest in a second mt and use a M2C frame to make it longer or more durable. By the way, the racing motor was totally inadequate to use for air time flips and control. Just do not see where the sct would add that much to your fleet to make a basher that stand up like the mt and adding all the weight will not work great at track. Race the mt. ifs it is just for fun or an ET. A ET would all much more variety to your fleet. If I did not already have the sct I would not add it. My thoughts.
 

Hector_Fisher

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Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
  2. SCT410
One is a racer, the other is a basher. Our track closed, now using the sct as a light duty back yard basher. For big stuff and more space use the mt410. I would build the sct per instructions and run it. Upgrade as things fail. Replaced the racing motor in the sct with the same motor in the mt. Works great for learning air control of ramp in back yard. Would not use it for hard bashing. Why? the mt is built for that and does a great job. Maybe you should look at the ET. Racer and a good basher as well. If you want the sct to be a mt, then invest in a second mt and use a M2C frame to make it longer or more durable. By the way, the racing motor was totally inadequate to use for air time flips and control. Just do not see where the sct would add that much to your fleet to make a basher that stand up like the mt and adding all the weight will not work great at track. Race the mt. ifs it is just for fun or an ET. A ET would all much more variety to your fleet. If I did not already have the sct I would not add it. My thoughts.
Appreciate the input. Agreed they are two different animals. And perhaps that's where I was making the mistake. I should keep in mind that tekno builds race rigs first, then bashers second.

I've got my fill of truggies from Arrma currently.

The SCT will add to my fleet because it will double as my "track" car. My local track only allows 1/10 scale sct and smaller, no 1/8 buggies. And I have nothing that fits that currently. So when my buddy wants to go race each other, we'd be able to (he has a sct410). Since the track is somewhat far though, I'll end up using the truck for other purposes. In this case, street bashing and dirt lots. I used to have an Arrma Senton and liked it. But it was sloppy and not precise. I think the sct410 will do everything the senton did, but perform better and be more pleasing to drive. Essentially what I wanted from the senton in the first place.

For bashing (not hardcore) would you anticipate any breakages in the sct410?
 

RC_User

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Tekno RC's
  1. SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
I've owned both. I no longer have an MT410 though. You'd also need the shocks and towers for a conversion that would cost a very significant amount. Since you already have an mt410 I'd say just go for the SCT and have both. if you convert you won't like that you no longer have the MT410!.
I have crashed my sct easily 100 times and never broken a thing, albeit on 2s at a track, but a rough outdoor dirt track with a lot of jumps. The one needed part I'd say would be the hinge pin blocks, at least the A and D from the start, but the rest of the stuff you mention I wouldn't swap unless it breaks in future (ack plate, cross pins). I scored a used set of alum blocks on ebay of all 4 for like $40. sometimes you can get them cheap because people advertise them for the old eb48 since they are the same part number. the original 5211 motor mount is discontinued and hard to find now but you can use the lightened one that has only the 3mm holes, 5211x to fit the 1/8th motors.
Right now from amain.com, add coupon code SEPT3022 and take off $30 for $290 shipped, at that price it's crazy NOT to buy one if you're considering an Sct410.3.
 

sandblaster

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
Our track was the same, had to be 1/10 and that was s why we have them now. They are great fun and great cars. Power plant makes or breaks the performance. If set for racing motor, will be weak for lite bashing. If a bashing motor will be overpowered for track. Look at what your friend runs and go from there.
 

Ruzty1311

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Motor mount for the MT410 and SCT410.3 are the same I just bought a set because I stripped a screw on my SCT and it was for the MT410 and it fit the SCT no problem :)
 

Hector_Fisher

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Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
  2. SCT410
I've owned both. I no longer have an MT410 though. You'd also need the shocks and towers for a conversion that would cost a very significant amount. Since you already have an mt410 I'd say just go for the SCT and have both. if you convert you won't like that you no longer have the MT410!.
I have crashed my sct easily 100 times and never broken a thing, albeit on 2s at a track, but a rough outdoor dirt track with a lot of jumps. The one needed part I'd say would be the hinge pin blocks, at least the A and D from the start, but the rest of the stuff you mention I wouldn't swap unless it breaks in future (ack plate, cross pins). I scored a used set of alum blocks on ebay of all 4 for like $40. sometimes you can get them cheap because people advertise them for the old eb48 since they are the same part number. the original 5211 motor mount is discontinued and hard to find now but you can use the lightened one that has only the 3mm holes, 5211x to fit the 1/8th motors.
Right now from amain.com, add coupon code SEPT3022 and take off $30 for $290 shipped, at that price it's crazy NOT to buy one if you're considering an Sct410.3.
You've definitely steered me towards doing the SCT route to begin with. It seems the hinge pin blocks are the only real weakness. Interestingly, adding two of those block to the purchase price of the SCT equals the price of the MT.

I was considering A and B blocks initially (frontal impacts?). Are you suggesting A and D blocks to have aluminum blocks on each? Strengthen a little for both front and rear?
Motor mount for the MT410 and SCT410.3 are the same I just bought a set because I stripped a screw on my SCT and it was for the MT410 and it fit the SCT no problem :)
Motor "mount" is the same (TKR5260), but the motor plate/insert is not (TKR5211x on MT410 and "LCG" TKR5212 on SCT410). I think thats where the confusion was for me initially. But now i've come to realize that since the 5260 is the same size, you can swap in either, if needed. Which is why it worked for you.

The spare 4s system i have uses a 2650kv 4068 motor, so i'd need to consider whether to get a new motor or the 5211x insert. I'm sensing i might appreciate the better handling with the smaller diameter motor even if i'm not racing.
 

nub

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. MT410
  5. SCT410
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Basher
The A and C blocks are the typical suggestion because they're facing forward in the direction of travel. In the line of fire for direct impact. I've broken the A block twice hitting a stationary object with no damage to the B block. I've not had any issues with the composite C and D.
 

Hector_Fisher

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  2. SCT410
On the arrmaforum i saw someone mention that they went with the steel diff cross pins TKR5149a from the start, instead of the stock composite ones, since they were planning to run 4s.

Any thoughts on whether those would be beneficial when running 4s?
 

nub

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  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. MT410
  5. SCT410
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Basher
I'm running 4S and went to the TKR5149A after about 8 packs through it. I didn't run the composite long enough to judge them. I was chasing some gear noise under hard acceleration and high grip and suspected the composite was flexing some. I reshimed and went to a different grease at the same time so can't say what solved the noise I was getting.
 

sandblaster

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  2. MT410
  3. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
The composite pins are for racing as they are lighter. Never intended for bashing. I build with the metal cross pins.

Do not understand grease over the recommended oils. Biggest problem with the oils is overfilling and causing the oil to be forced out. Fill to just top of internal gears. Oil will get in and provided tub to the pins and side gears. Grease does not give up it's oil until it gets very warm. Not designed for fine gears and pins. Does anyone run grease in the rear differential of a full size vehicle? Never seen it for a reason. Is not designed for that use. Will lead to quick and very expensive repair. View of a HD repair tech.
 

Hector_Fisher

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Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
  2. SCT410
I'm running 4S and went to the TKR5149A after about 8 packs through it. I didn't run the composite long enough to judge them. I was chasing some gear noise under hard acceleration and high grip and suspected the composite was flexing some. I reshimed and went to a different grease at the same time so can't say what solved the noise I was getting.
Sounds about like the right conditions where I would anticipate the composites to flex as well. Lots of strain on the diff internals. I suppose in the interest of saving a few grams here or there then yes you would want the composites, especially if just running 2s packs at the track. Thanks for the thoughts. The pins can be had for around $15 off ebay, so for higher power applications, it's a reasonable investment IMO.
The composite pins are for racing as they are lighter. Never intended for bashing. I build with the metal cross pins.

Do not understand grease over the recommended oils. Biggest problem with the oils is overfilling and causing the oil to be forced out. Fill to just top of internal gears. Oil will get in and provided tub to the pins and side gears. Grease does not give up it's oil until it gets very warm. Not designed for fine gears and pins. Does anyone run grease in the rear differential of a full size vehicle? Never seen it for a reason. Is not designed for that use. Will lead to quick and very expensive repair. View of a HD repair tech.
I suspect nub was referring to greasing the ring gear rather than grease in the diff case, since it was mentioned in the same sentence as shimming.

Glad to see people swapped to the metals pins. Thanks for the feedback.

Curious also if there is a significant difference in ring gears between MT and SCT now that i've looked at the parts again. Someone in another forum mentioned the SCT diff ring gears were lightened, but they look almost identical to the MT's. TKR5403 and TKR5151. Both CNC, both 40t, both look to be the same thickness, both would use the same diff case and should have the same fastener holes. Any thoughts?
 

nub

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Location
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Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. MT410
  5. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
Do not understand grease over the recommended oils.



The grease I referred to is outside the diff on the ring gear to pinion, not inside the diff.



Curious also if there is a significant difference in ring gears between MT and SCT now that i've looked at the parts again. Someone in another forum mentioned the SCT diff ring gears were lightened, but they look almost identical to the MT's. TKR5403 and TKR5151. Both CNC, both 40t, both look to be the same thickness, both would use the same diff case and should have the same fastener holes. Any thoughts?



I never noticed the ring gears being different. I thought it was just the outdrives and the rest was the same. 5151 is listed as an optional part for the MT (lightened). It's hard to tell but it looks like the material removed in between the screw holes is a little deeper on the 5151
 

Turtle410.3

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Came over from the Arrmaforum as I figured this was a better place to ask.

I have my MT410 and it's wonderfully durable and precise to drive. I'm considering a SCT410.3 which I would be running on 4s for street bashing, dirt lot bashing, and occasional trips to the local track for open laps, no sanctioned racing. But when i look at the parts list for the SCT410.3 vs MT410 it leaves some to be desired. The frustration arises when noticing that the MT410 kit is typically only $50 more than the SCT410.3 kit, and that some of the MT410 parts are beefed up and set up for better durability/bashing. It makes me wish i could just buy an MT410 and convert it to a SCT410.3. Which leads me to consider one of two "conversions":

1) Buy a SCT410.3 and add:
-TKR5570-17, 17mm hub adapter set (i have a slew of spare 17mm buggy and street tires i have that i'll be using)
-TKR5161 and TKR 5162, aluminum "A" and "B" blocks, hinge pin brace (anticipating breakages based on a friends experience)
-TKR5211, MT410 motor mount (or similar) to allow 40mm motors (that's the spare system I have that i'd like to use)
Downsides are: compatibility issues with motor mounts?, less beefy components (plastic ackerman plate, rear blocks, plastic diff cross pin?)
Total cost around $472 for the kit.

2) Buy a MT410 and add (from what i can tell):
-TKR5515 and TKR5516 (SCT a-arms) $32 total
-TKR5123 x3 (SCT turnbuckles) $28 total
-TKR5572 x2 (SCT driveshafts) $44 total
-TKR6856 x 2 (CV rebuild kit) $18 total
I'd plan to use all other existing components as is if possible (still checking dimensions on some things).
Downsides are: potential compatibilities issues such as driveshaft and CV rebuild, right height issues with MT shocks?, any other missing parts?, I'm not expecting it to drive as dialed in as a stock SCT410.3.
Total ballpark cost is $492 for the kit and conversion parts. But also some payback: spares for the my current MT410 from removed parts (driveshafts, a-arms, turnbuckles, etc).

Looking for your thoughts and wisdom! Are the "less beefy" components on the SCT410 kit worth fretting over? Are the "beefy" components on the MT410 worth desiring?
Hey Hector,
I've done a ton of playing around with the SCT, EB48, MT410 and EB48 2.0 and here are my findings for what you're asking about.

First the 2.0's are almost completely different in design.. only center driveshafts are interchangeable with original line so just disregard the New EB48 kits.

MT410-SCT-EB48.3 are virtually identical in the centerline, meaning everything excluding suspension arms on out.
So diffs and diff housings(same) (except MT comes with steel cross pins)
Drive cups and center drive shafts are slightly larger(why the cups are different)

If I was going to do a custom TUFF AS HELL SCT build I would indeed start with the MT410 kit... But don't add SCT parts.. Use EB48.3 parts because you'd only need to buy A-Arms, CV shafts and Tie-Rods. All the hub assembly parts are the same with 48.3 and interchangeable so the MT kits parts just mount right on!!
MT comes with 4 aluminum Hinge Pin Blocks, Steel Diff Pins, beefier shock towers and the beefed up drive shafts!! This adds about 7oz of weight to your SCT but truly will make it almost Indestructible! Basically a MT410 with SCT length suspension arms.
Most versatile, durable, high performance and power per weight system I've used in these SCT sized rigs is the Hobbywing Xerun XR8sct-3660 3200KV combo. Best on 2-3s(17T pinion) but if you run a 14T pinion 4s can be run with crazy power!(motor heatsink/fan highly recommended for this) 2 years of racing/bashing on this system with zero failure (except esc fan).
Download the EB48.3 Build Directions and you're good to go! Super Tuff SCT with 17mm hubs done!!

Hope this helps?
 
Last edited:
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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Hey Hector,
I've done a ton of playing around with the SCT, EB48, MT410 and EB48 2.0 and here are my findings for what you're asking about.

First the 2.0's are almost completely different in design.. only center driveshafts are interchangeable with original line so just disregard the New EB48 kits.

MT410-SCT-EB48.3 are virtually identical in the centerline, meaning everything excluding suspension arms on out.
So diffs and diff housings(same) (except MT comes with steel cross pins)
Drive cups and center drive shafts are slightly larger(why the cups are different)

If I was going to do a custom TUFF AS HELL SCT build I would indeed start with the MT410 kit... But don't add SCT parts.. Use EB48.3 parts because you'd only need to buy A-Arms, CV shafts and Tie-Rods. All the hub assembly parts are the same with 48.3 and interchangeable so the MT kits parts just mount right on!!
MT comes with 4 aluminum Hinge Pin Blocks, Steel Diff Pins, beefier shock towers and the beefed up drive shafts!! This adds about 7oz of weight to your SCT but truly will make it almost Indestructible! Basically a MT410 with SCT length suspension arms.
Most versatile, durable, high performance and power per weight system I've used in these SCT sized rigs is the Hobbywing Xerun XR8sct-3660 3200KV combo. Best on 2-3s(17T pinion) but if you run a 14T pinion 4s can be run with crazy power!(motor heatsink/fan highly recommended for this) 2 years of racing/bashing on this system with zero failure (except esc fan).
Download the EB48.3 Build Directions and you're good to go! Super Tuff SCT with 17mm hubs done!!

Hope this helps?
This is great, i have a similar build based on the EB48.2. Which had shorter shocks (the ones you get on the SCT) and more importantly the same tower size than the MT410 and SCT410.3. I say tower size, because the SCT410 comes with thiner towers.

The problem with that build is that the arms are out of stock, for good.

So are you saying the MT410 shocks will fit with the MT410 towers and EB48.3 arms? Does the truck bottom out properly? The reason I’m asking is because the EB48.3 came with the longer shocks (same as MT410) but also a longer / higher tower.

This is very interesting!

Note: I’m running it on 4s with 3674 motor and it drives great.

Thanks,
 
Last edited:

Hector_Fisher

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WA
Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
  2. SCT410
@Turtle410.3 and @Nicochau awesome feedback!

a custom TUFF AS HELL SCT build
This was exactly the inspiration for the origins of the post: what can i do to make the SCT as indestructible as possible?

Like i mentioned in my OP under the "downsides" section, I was afraid of other compatibility issues that i wasn't taking into account initially. After my original post, I too realized that shocks would need to be reconsidered. You could potentially use the fuel tubing trick to limit shock travel and get the right throw, but since the MT has longer shock bodies (I'm pretty sure?), you might run into travel issues. It wouldn't drive as nicely as a stock SCT i suspect, but this thread isn't about racing, it's about bashing!

Also, chalk the thinner shock towers on the SCT up to me not having paid attention in class! Are the buggy towers any thicker than the SCT? They might be a decent substitute. Good find. There's a reason I thought the MT410 was a good base for building, though it probably would require some work.

If the new EB's are different than the older models, does a-arm length at least remain the same? Could you supplant the 2.0 buggy arms onto the MT and find a driveshaft that matches the right length? (just kinda spit balling here)
 
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Tekno RC's
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  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
@Turtle410.3 and @Nicochau awesome feedback!


This was exactly the inspiration for the origins of the post: what can i do to make the SCT as indestructible as possible?

Like i mentioned in my OP under the "downsides" section, I was afraid of other compatibility issues that i wasn't taking into account initially. After my original post, I too realized that shocks would need to be reconsidered. You could potentially use the fuel tubing trick to limit shock travel and get the right throw, but since the MT has longer shock bodies (I'm pretty sure?), you might run into travel issues. It wouldn't drive as nicely as a stock SCT i suspect, but this thread isn't about racing, it's about bashing!

Also, chalk the thinner shock towers on the SCT up to me not having paid attention in class! Are the buggy towers any thicker than the SCT? They might be a decent substitute. Good find. There's a reason I thought the MT410 was a good base for building, though it probably would require some work.

If the new EB's are different than the older models, does a-arm length at least remain the same? Could you supplant the 2.0 buggy arms onto the MT and find a driveshaft that matches the right length? (just kinda spit balling here)
Unfortunately, all dimensions are changed in the 2.0. They also twisted the arms. I just wish they kept making those original EB48 arms, they were reversible too (worked on both sides).

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-xtra-tough-front-suspension-arm-set-2-tkr5036xt/p253451
 

KnowAir

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Good reads right here! I'm interested in creating some hybrid Tekno stuff as well.
Was thinking, what if I stretched the sct410.3 with an ET48.3 chassis, rear driveshaft and made a legit 1/8 Tekno sct? What are the length differences in suspension arms between the sct and buggy(if any)? Hmm..
 

nitro

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In the process of trying to build a bomber 6s sct myself. This is not a good idea but fun for me. No time yet to get it together. Plan is et48 towers and shocks with delrin pistons and guides, aluminum top and bottom caps. starting with yellow et48 springs. steel diff cases. Aluminum split center mount. Aluminum hinge blocks. carbon rear brace, skid plates, rpm slash bumpers this stuff needs slight mods. etc etc. Already got the normal beefed up stuff on the truck like steel cross pins servo horn 17mm hubs. Here is a pic of some of the stuff
 

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KnowAir

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In the process of trying to build a bomber 6s sct myself. This is not a good idea but fun for me. No time yet to get it together. Plan is et48 towers and shocks with delrin pistons and guides, aluminum top and bottom caps. starting with yellow et48 springs. steel diff cases. Aluminum split center mount. Aluminum hinge blocks. carbon rear brace, skid plates, rpm slash bumpers this stuff needs slight mods. etc etc. Already got the normal beefed up stuff on the truck like steel cross pins servo horn 17mm hubs. Here is a pic of some of the stuff
Sounds like a good recipe. Long or short wheelbase? I was out of the hobby for quite a few years, pretty much missed the whole sct craze. I would have liked to have a 6s senton, but definitely rather have a 1/8 Tekno sct any day. Armmas are great bashers but lack the precision that a Tekno has IMO. I'm appalled that Arrma doesn't include bearings in the steering of their models..even a $750 Talion exb gets bushings and a non adjustable servo saver,LOL.
So my desire is to build a race worthy 4s 1/8 sct. Only 1/8 sct I can find these days is the Hobao, which does look good and I've heard good things about, but to rare a brand to get invested in IMO.
One of these days.. I'm going to build one, just gotta decide on long or short wheelbase.
 

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