Center Diff Support Screws (Stronger)

[RustyUs]

Blah, blah, blah. I tried everything to get that darn screw out. I'll save the motor mount to work on during a rainy day, but for now... I threw in the towel.

I switched the M3 button heads...

to M3 socket head screws (2mm vs 2.5mm hex)...

so possibly I won't have to go through this again. Well, at least I'll have more material to work with (Dremel) using socket heads.

 

[Billl DeLong]

I've had a similar situation in the past and the way I solved it was to use a dremel to cut a slot which also left a notch on the mount, then used a micro torch to melt the thread lock and used a flat head screwdriver to effortlessly back out the screw.

In the future, at the first hint of any screw refusing the budge, I immediately hit it with a micro torch for 5-10 seconds before stripping the screw, then replace the screw that's starting to round out.

I only use thread lock around metal fasteners and no thread lock anywhere there is plastic that might melt if I have to apply heat. You can use a soldering iron to get around tight spaces with plastic in a pinch, takes longer to melt the thread lock but less likely to damage plastic.

 

[RustyUs]

I've had a similar situation in the past and the way I solved it was to use a dremel to cut a slot which also left a notch on the mount, then used a micro torch to melt the thread lock and used a flat head screwdriver to effortlessly back out the screw.

In the future, at the first hint of any screw refusing the budge, I immediately hit it with a micro torch for 5-10 seconds before stripping the screw, then replace the screw that's starting to round out.

I only use thread lock around metal fasteners and no thread lock anywhere there is plastic that might melt if I have to apply heat. You can use a soldering iron to get around tight spaces with plastic in a pinch, takes longer to melt the thread lock but less likely to damage plastic.

Shoulda, coulda, woulda. Yep, did that. Check, I did that too. Uh yessum, I gone and done it . Torx bit, screw extractor bits... none of the usual solutions did anything to budge the button head screw, or melt the thread lock. At the first sign of things 'going south' , I had soldering iron tip on top of screw, and torching the side of motor mount (multiple times) to begin to remedy stubborn stupid screw.

For ten dollars and some change (someone messed up price?), I'm movin' on with some spares on hand .

 

[Cheez]

This has saved the day a couple of times. Screw removal pliers.

 

[TBuggy]

Just another idea to throw out there.

I don’t thread lock those screw because of the plastic part. If I was using carbon fiber I would.

In my experience when I screw a plastic piece onto a metal one, the compression from tightening the screw into the plastic tends to be enough to keep it from backing out. I also check the screws just in case before each run so if something is working loose I catch it then. To me it’s a small price to pay to avoid the issue you were just in.

 

[RustyUs]

Just another idea to throw out there.

I don’t thread lock those screw because of the plastic part. If I was using carbon fiber I would.

In my experience when I screw a plastic piece onto a metal one, the compression from tightening the screw into the plastic tends to be enough to keep it from backing out. I also check the screws just in case before each run so if something is working loose I catch it then. To me it’s a small price to pay to avoid the issue you were just in.

No doubt. Plastic composition would affect my judgement. I get what you're putting down.

For ultimate durability and piece of mind it's got to be thread lock for me while running on super rough track. If it means changing out some hardware to a more robust screw, count me in. When I used to race multiple classes, I had so little time to go over every thing between. .. I need all the security in knowing my rides are going to finish.