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New! M2C Wide Truggy Chassis

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Overkill

Well-known member
Messages
303
Reaction score
439
Location
Birmingham, AL
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
Driving Style
Basher
The M2C wide chassis will be available in both ET (long) and MT (short) versions. This is truly a game changer for Tekno bashers! Huge thanks to Mitchell at M2C for making this happen.

Benefits include:
  • Waaaaaay less chassis flex
  • Waaaaaay more room for mounting different electronics
  • No more worrying about the battery hitting the center diff outdrive with certain types of packs
  • Multiple location ESC plate
  • Can fit the Mega Chassis Brace
M2C prototype vs stock ET48.3

1710


Comparison

1711


452g

1712


M2C Mega Chassis Brace

1713


Mutiple location ESC Plate, fits up to a Hobbywing Max6

1714


It has 4 holes for mounting into Hobbywing ESC's

1715


The tray has been moved forward 5mm which allows a 40x75mm truggy motor to be used with a Hobbywing Max6

1716


The servo has to swapped 180* for the proper alignment, so a hole must be drilled for the wire exit

1717


Killer bracing setup

1718


8awg wire extensions

1719


So much space!

1720


Poseidon 1527 (43x106mm) and Hobbywing Max6 ESC

1721


Ideally the servo horn needs to be a longer style versus shorter, because it puts the linkage rod in a better position.

1722


For truggy owners, you must use a NT48.3 body since they're wider. I'm using the Leadfinger Strife.

1725


I wanted to use the Proline thumbwashers to secure the body. So I shaved off the nipples on the body mounts.

1726


I drilled up to this point.

1727


The hole needs to be perfectly centered.

1728


I used longer set screws. (M4x16mm)

1729
 
Last edited:
Very awesome! Can’t wait! I’m all set to hit the order button!

I like the proline body mount mod. I may have to do that. I don’t like the pins all that much. How solid is it? I saw someone on FB on your post pin a photo using m4 screws through the bottom too.
 
Thanks for the tip on the thumb washers!

I've been using them on my SCT410 for about 6 months and I think it's time for me to start putting them on the rest of my cars!

I also ordered some longer M4x16mm set screws because I like to use body washers and reinforce the body where the stock 12mm screws are way too short IMO.
 
Very awesome! Can’t wait! I’m all set to hit the order button!

I like the proline body mount mod. I may have to do that. I don’t like the pins all that much. How solid is it? I saw someone on FB on your post pin a photo using m4 screws through the bottom too.
It's very solid. As you know, Tekno uses very solid plastic/composite.

Wow that is overkill. That thing looks like a tank!
(y)

Thanks for the tip on the thumb washers!

I've been using them on my SCT410 for about 6 months and I think it's time for me to start putting them on the rest of my cars!

I also ordered some longer M4x16mm set screws because I like to use body washers and reinforce the body where the stock 12mm screws are way too short IMO.
Yes sir. Yeah, I use fiber washers on the front holes.

This is awesome @Overkill, are you going to be selling these?
M2C Racing will be selling them very soon, in both ET and MT lengths.
 
Very cool chassis set up. Ordered the proline body mounts , long set screws and fiber washers before I even finished reading all the posts in this thread. Building a MT410 right now. Firm believer in right tool for the job and do it right the first time.

Thanks
 
@Overkill will this come with the chassis braces like the MT410 chassis?

Also, I was looking at the pics again and this is a nicely machined chassis with machine chamfers. Is it hard anodized as well?
 
Cool option, i was wondering if anyone was ever going to make different chassis for any of the 1/8 or sct Tekno rigs other than the ones you already make, but I have a couple questions. Obviously this is designed for bashers not racers and there are more mounting options for the esc, but in your photo with the body on, the esc and wires are hanging out right in the spot where dirt and rocks and water etc gets sprayed off the front wheels. If I ran like that I would destroy the esc in less than one battery pack lol, thus the speed control would have to be either in a box or mounted elsewhere. Mine fits easily in the stock location even with the longer truggy motor already so that wouldnt be a problem. (Tekin RX8 and Tekin T8 4037 truggy motor.) Also I'm curious about the steering setup with the servo flipped. Tekno specifically states that the servo arm needs to be parallel with the arm on the servo saver, so I'm assuming your method would work, but would have to technically give different speed/tq numbers left or right. End points are obviously adjustable, but I dont think speed is adjustable in just one direction. Again, for bashers no big deal but I know some racers would like that and I know that's not who this is designed for.

Is the battery mounting location in any way adjustable? I have no issues with the battery rubbing on anything now with the stock chassis, but would like to keep it as close to center as possible. If it were up to me I would move the battery tray out at most 1/4" just to get the straps a bit farther away from the center driveshaft. Is there only the one battery tray location as shown in the picture? It seems like it's so far out there that it would mess up the left/right weight balance being that the motor/servo etc isnt changing from the stock location.

Lastly, when using a NT body, does it fit good enough that velcro can still be used along the sides of the mud guards on both the battery and motor side to secure the body as I do now on both my ET.3 and EB.4? I run velcro all the way down both sides then dont even use body pins at all. The velcro holds the body much better plus it keeps all the dirt out except where it can get in around the front arms and steering area. Once I switched to velcro I was getting at least 80% less dirt and crap inside. Easily the best non performance mod I've done when it comes to maintenance. I was able to switch back to the much quieter plastic spir gears on both the ET and EB and have yet to chew one up from a pebble, although I still run the steel gear in the SCT as it fills with dust and dirt super fast.

Anyway, great mod and I may have to grab one to use when I'm not racing. I've had great luck with all your parts I've got.. all 3 of my Teknos have your aluminum rear braces and the 3 aluminum diff cups, and the ET has the rear shock tower brace, the brace that goes from the top of the center diff to the rear shock tower, as well as the one piece brace that replaces both the front and middle brace. Those two parts go on when I'm not racing.
 
Damn!!!!!!! That is crazy. Love it all. Space is amazing
(y)

Very cool chassis set up. Ordered the proline body mounts , long set screws and fiber washers before I even finished reading all the posts in this thread. Building a MT410 right now. Firm believer in right tool for the job and do it right the first time.

Thanks
(y)

@Overkill will this come with the chassis braces like the MT410 chassis?

Also, I was looking at the pics again and this is a nicely machined chassis with machine chamfers. Is it hard anodized as well?
I believe the chassis will include the mega chassis brace. Yes, it will be hard anodized.

Cool option, i was wondering if anyone was ever going to make different chassis for any of the 1/8 or sct Tekno rigs other than the ones you already make, but I have a couple questions. Obviously this is designed for bashers not racers and there are more mounting options for the esc, but in your photo with the body on, the esc and wires are hanging out right in the spot where dirt and rocks and water etc gets sprayed off the front wheels. If I ran like that I would destroy the esc in less than one battery pack lol, thus the speed control would have to be either in a box or mounted elsewhere. Mine fits easily in the stock location even with the longer truggy motor already so that wouldnt be a problem. (Tekin RX8 and Tekin T8 4037 truggy motor.) Also I'm curious about the steering setup with the servo flipped. Tekno specifically states that the servo arm needs to be parallel with the arm on the servo saver, so I'm assuming your method would work, but would have to technically give different speed/tq numbers left or right. End points are obviously adjustable, but I dont think speed is adjustable in just one direction. Again, for bashers no big deal but I know some racers would like that and I know that's not who this is designed for.

Is the battery mounting location in any way adjustable? I have no issues with the battery rubbing on anything now with the stock chassis, but would like to keep it as close to center as possible. If it were up to me I would move the battery tray out at most 1/4" just to get the straps a bit farther away from the center driveshaft. Is there only the one battery tray location as shown in the picture? It seems like it's so far out there that it would mess up the left/right weight balance being that the motor/servo etc isnt changing from the stock location.

Lastly, when using a NT body, does it fit good enough that velcro can still be used along the sides of the mud guards on both the battery and motor side to secure the body as I do now on both my ET.3 and EB.4? I run velcro all the way down both sides then dont even use body pins at all. The velcro holds the body much better plus it keeps all the dirt out except where it can get in around the front arms and steering area. Once I switched to velcro I was getting at least 80% less dirt and crap inside. Easily the best non performance mod I've done when it comes to maintenance. I was able to switch back to the much quieter plastic spir gears on both the ET and EB and have yet to chew one up from a pebble, although I still run the steel gear in the SCT as it fills with dust and dirt super fast.

Anyway, great mod and I may have to grab one to use when I'm not racing. I've had great luck with all your parts I've got.. all 3 of my Teknos have your aluminum rear braces and the 3 aluminum diff cups, and the ET has the rear shock tower brace, the brace that goes from the top of the center diff to the rear shock tower, as well as the one piece brace that replaces both the front and middle brace. Those two parts go on when I'm not racing.

I don't work at M2C, I'm part of the test team.

The ESC plate holes will be moved 4mm further inward on the production chassis which will offer more protection. You can't see from the pics but the body sticks out further than the ESC and protects it for the most part from front tire debris. I haven't had any issues with it. You can also easily make a kydex protection L plate and mount it to the bottom of the ESC plate.

The steering works great and I haven't noticed anything different one way or the other. You want to use a longer style servo horn to have the linkage rod in the best position.

The battery tray is not adjustable. I'm not sure what the exact weight balance is.

The Leadfinger Strife body does not tightly hug the chassis like it does with the stock setup. You may be able to use velcro but the sides of the body wouldn't sit completely flat.
 
I have been sitting on a mt410 and et48.3 sliders for a few months now, this past week I orderd the game changer chassis for each vehicle, they are out of stock for the servo horns, the mt410 is getting a savox servo i have, and the et48 is getting a hitech servo, currently in my kraton, can someone confirm these horns will work.
For savox....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PTK-7800-B...41-40-25T-41-/401439782413?txnId=757185524027

For Hitech..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PTK-7802-B...4T-Hitec-41-/121951474646?txnId=2064116112002
 

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