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5mm CVD Driveshafts are in!!

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Overkill

Well-known member
Messages
303
Reaction score
439
Location
Birmingham, AL
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
Driving Style
Basher
This is the only part that Arrma makes thicker than Tekno. The Tekno shafts are 3.8mm diameter and the Arrmas are 5mm. The Arrmas are 2.5mm longer and you must use the Arrma stub axles because the ball end is larger and doesn't fit in the Tekno stub axle. FYI, Arrma uses good quality hardened steel.

  1. Remove the 13x19x4 bearing from the inner part of the hub and instead use a 8x16x5 bearing further inside the hub like you would when using the Tekno universals, so now you're using two 8x16x5 bearings. The driveshaft has moved further inside therefore making the other end of the dog bone in the correct position inside the outdrive, perfect!
  2. I had some custom steel rings made that slide over the stub axle pin. The pin has nowhere to go but I don't want it moving around.
  3. Place a 2mm thick shim in front of the inner bearing to get the dog bone further in the outdrive. This will put it in the same exact position as a stock Tekno dog bone.
  4. The pin on the hex side of the Arrma stub axle is 2.5mm and Tekno uses 3mm. I definitely want to use the Tekno hexes and pins, so I drilled out the hole.
  5. On one side of the truck I'm using a 0.3mm shim right behind the hex, the other side has no shims.
  6. I used the M2C delrin shock cap bushings on the front which have a flange/collar on them that spaces the shocks/springs out just a tiny bit, giving the thicker driveshafts adequate clearance so they don't rub on the spring. The rear driveshafts have plenty of clearance.
Parts Needed:

Beefy

ArrmaDriveshaft.png


Size comparison
5mm vs 3.8mm

DriveshaftComparison.png


Custom steel rings

Ring.png


Covers the pin

RingInstalled.png


In the hub

Hub.png


Drilled out to 3mm in order to use Tekno hexes and pins

StubAxlePin.png


2mm thick shim goes right in front of the inner bearing

Shim.png


The shim pushes the driveshaft further inside the outdrive for the correct position

Outdrive.png


M2C delrin shock cap bushings with the built in flange/collar which spaces the shock/spring out just a tiny bit

Bushing.png


The bushings create more clearance so there's no rubbing

Clearance.png
 

Attachments

  • Washer.png
    Washer.png
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Last edited:
Nice and beefy. Have you had a problem with the stock drive shafts not holding up?
 
I rarely have a problem with them, but you see my name :) I’ve seen others complain about them bending so I wanted to come up with a solution.

Excellent work. I am not a jump over the house type basher but if I bend mine I am definitely doing this mod.
 
This is the only part that Arrma makes thicker than Tekno. The Tekno shafts are 3.8mm diameter and the Arrmas are 5mm. The Arrmas are 2.5mm longer and you must use the Arrma stub axles because the ball end is larger and doesn't fit in the Tekno stub axle. Arrma uses good quality hardened steel.

  1. Remove the 13x19x4 bearing from the outer part of the hub and instead use a 8x16x5 bearing further inside the hub like you would when using the Tekno universals. So now you're using two 8x16x5 bearings. You've moved the driveshaft further inside therefore making the other end of the dog bone in the perfect position for clearance, it's in the same exact position as a stock Tekno dog bone, perfect!

  2. I had some custom steel rings made that slide over the stub axle pin. The pin has nowhere to go but I don't want it moving around.

  3. The pin on the hex side of the Arrma stub axle is 2.5mm and Tekno uses 3mm. I definitely want to use the Tekno hexes and pins, so I drilled out the hole.

  4. The last thing required is a 8mm washer in order to have the correct spacing for the hex and pin. It only needs one washer and the spacing is perfect.

Beastly

View attachment 382

Size comparison
5mm vs 3.8mm

View attachment 383

Custom steel rings

View attachment 384

Covers the pin

View attachment 385

Drilled out to 3mm in order to use Tekno hexes and pins

View attachment 386

Washer for the correct spacing

View attachment 387
what part numbers did you use?
 
The Tekno shafts are already thicker than most 1/8 rigs (and cost twice as much), must take some serious crashing to bend them!
I do wish they were universals though, i want to eventually get the uni's but at $50/pair they are ridiculously priced, most 1/8's come with them.
 
Sweet upgrade!!

I haven't had any issues on the MT410 but my 6 year olds monster pede 4x4 has been destroying pins and, most recently, demolished a drive cup. I got so tired of fixing them that I just gave him my Kraton. The axles have held up but he just destroyed the rear shock tower. lol
 
The Tekno shafts are already thicker than most 1/8 rigs (and cost twice as much), must take some serious crashing to bend them!
I do wish they were universals though, i want to eventually get the uni's but at $50/pair they are ridiculously priced, most 1/8's come with them.

Just keep looking around on...a while back I ended up finding brand new uni's for my EB48.3 for $50 for all four.
 
Excellent work. I am not a jump over the house type basher but if I bend mine I am definitely doing this mod.
Thanks.

what part numbers did you use?
I bought mine from a dismantler but these are the individual part numbers.

AR310458, Driveshaft 142mm
AR310487, Stub Axle
AR310452, Barrell & Pin

Sweet upgrade!!

I haven't had any issues on the MT410 but my 6 year olds monster pede 4x4 has been destroying pins and, most recently, demolished a drive cup. I got so tired of fixing them that I just gave him my Kraton. The axles have held up but he just destroyed the rear shock tower. lol
Thanks.
 
Just keep looking around on...a while back I ended up finding brand new uni's for my EB48.3 for $50 for all four.

Nice. I've been looking on ebay for months for a deal to pop up, The longer ET unis are much harder to come by it seems, and I've never seen them under $50/pair. Amain is the only one who even lists them regularly... I'd say there isn't anything wrong with the standard axles, i just like the single piece simplicity of the unis from the other 1/8 rigs I had, there is probably zero performance benefit. wouldn't surprise me if the shafts were a bit smaller on the unis too but i don't know if they are.
@0verkill don't you have a speed buggy with the unis in the back? can you measure the dia?
 
I just got my truggy universals yesterday...I also have eb48 universals on my db48 build. I’ll measure both later.
 
Truggy Universals are just a hair over 4mm
Buggy universals are just a hair under 4mm

Nice so the ET/MT unis are actually a hair thicker than the standard shafts... i gotta get em.
 
Thanks for sharing @Overkill. I also updated your first post to include the parts used in this how-to!
 
Excellent work. I am not a jump over the house type basher but if I bend mine I am definitely doing this mod.

I had 19 runs on mine and without a hiccup except for the bumpers and body. This weekend I handed my Tx over to my friend who never drove anything other than. 2WD Slash. I said you won't break it if you don't hit a rock or tree so have at it. A 1000 smiles later he came back and said somethings wrong. I have a Spare set so after those bend I'm doing this mod for sure.
image.jpeg
 
I had 19 runs on mine and without a hiccup except for the bumpers and body. This weekend I handed my Tx over to my friend who never drove anything other than. 2WD Slash. I said you won't break it if you don't hit a rock or tree so have at it. A 1000 smiles later he came back and said somethings wrong. I have a Spare set so after those bend I'm doing this mod for sure.View attachment 591

leave it to a slash driver to break your tekno.. lol
if those were expensive universals i'd cry
 

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