410 2.0 Very Stubborn Front Tower Brace

[RustyUs]

Yeah, I'll probably get roasted for this post, but Step J-3 was the most frustrating thing I've had to go through on any kit. Getting the front shock tower brace to line up/fit onto the gearbox was just awful. It was like the tower brace mold didn't match up to the gearbox's two "humps" (pointed out below).

I didn't take pictures of the "before" gap that was there. I took the thing apart ten times while saying to myself, "What the heck am I doing wrong?" After using lots of hand strength, thumb pushing, and drawing things together with the two TKR1444 M4x12mm Button Head Screws. I was finally able to secure the brace on. Is it on correctly? I don't know, and I'm not taking it apart again. I do know all the screws lined up, but there had to be some give on the part of the brace.

 

[Billl DeLong]

Not familiar with the latest SCT release, but if I was having issues with alignment, then I would start loosening other screws to get everything aligned, then go back and re-tighten everything. Chances are everything was spec'd properly, but all it takes is 1 screw to be torqued before everything is lined up to throw things out of whack, kinda like the order of tightening lug nuts on a full scale auto

 

[RustyUs]

Not familiar with the latest SCT release, but if I was having issues with alignment, then I would start loosening other screws to get everything aligned, then go back and re-tighten everything. Chances are everything was spec'd properly, but all it takes is 1 screw to be torqued before everything is lined up to throw things out of whack, kinda like the order of tightening lug nuts on a full scale auto

You wouldn't believe what I went through before I almost gave up. I treat builds just like changing a wheel/tire on an automobile. I always keep front/rear assemblies barely snug/loose, 'cause I know all too well it may take a little nudge for that perfect alignment before I begin tightening down things little by little... drawing everything together.

 

[Garlicbronco]

mine was a little rough but got it to work electric screwdriver for the win lmao

 

[RustyUs]

Everything is keyed to fit another part....

Taking all the pressure off of the part, and I was left with this...

Carefully applying lots of force, I was able to line screw holes up with shock tower, and top plate while tightening things down.

It truly was a square block into a round hole moment.

 

[Garlicbronco]

yeah thats how mine was and i just sinched it down little by little in a x pattern and made it work i guess

 

[nub]

Mine took a little extra force also but I didn't have to draw it down with the screws. I had more issue with the entry to the receiver box before people mentioned making the hole a slot.

 

[Matthew_Armeni]

That front brace will have a running change done to it. When the brace was originally made it was designed around the big diff bulkheads on the EB/NB/ET/NT. When we made the decision to use the medium sized diffs from the previous generation of cars, we had to make new bulkheads. Those new bulkheads had a little more material in one spot that caused interference that we didn't catch. You can simply dremel or sand 2 spots on the brace and it will fit on without any issues.

 

[Matthew_Armeni]

Mine took a little extra force also but I didn't have to draw it down with the screws. I had more issue with the entry to the receiver box before people mentioned making the hole a slot.

This part will also have a running change done to it

 

[wrcjr51]

Not familiar with the latest SCT release, but if I was having issues with alignment, then I would start loosening other screws to get everything aligned, then go back and re-tighten everything. Chances are everything was spec'd properly, but all it takes is 1 screw to be torqued before everything is lined up to throw things out of whack, kinda like the order of tightening lug nuts on a full scale auto

Delong speaks the truth.

 

[SpinRush RC]

Yeah, I'll probably get roasted for this post, but Step J-3 was the most frustrating thing I've had to go through on any kit. Getting the front shock tower brace to line up/fit onto the gearbox was just awful. It was like the tower brace mold didn't match up to the gearbox's two "humps" (pointed out below).
View attachment 10194
I didn't take pictures of the "before" gap that was there. I took the thing apart ten times while saying to myself, "What the heck am I doing wrong?" After using lots of hand strength, thumb pushing, and drawing things together with the two TKR1444 M4x12mm Button Head Screws. I was finally able to secure the brace on. Is it on correctly? I don't know, and I'm not taking it apart again. I do know all the screws lined up, but there had to be some give on the part of the brace.

Totally agree. This and the Servo Saver. Pure HELL. Just imagine, you'll get to do it again if you want to change something.

 

[RustyUs]

That front brace will have a running change done to it. When the brace was originally made it was designed around the big diff bulkheads on the EB/NB/ET/NT. When we made the decision to use the medium sized diffs from the previous generation of cars, we had to make new bulkheads. Those new bulkheads had a little more material in one spot that caused interference that we didn't catch. You can simply dremel or sand 2 spots on the brace and it will fit on without any issues.

Thanks for the clarification, and rendering on that part. I was loosing my mind. It's together now, but I will Dremel the brace at some point.

 

[RustyUs]

Totally agree. This and the Servo Saver. Pure HELL. Just imagine, you'll get to do it again if you want to change something.

A cheap $5 Team C 17mm wheel wrench has saved me a bunch of times.

 

[theDogger]

Just finish building and ran into this also I found the key is what order you attach the bolts. When I figured this out it went on like butter.

I also had some flashing

1- Remove the lower brace and #5, #4, #3 and #2 screws
2- #6 screws stays but loosen to allow for movement
3- Tighten down screws in this order - #1x2 -> #2x2 (making sure the two plates are mated and seated) -> #3*x2, #4, #5 and then #6*
* Dont forget the Loctite

This is the order I used and went together really easy