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MT410 first build

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jimbulsara

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HI all,
Just got a MT410 which i am looking forward to Build. Are there any particular tips/tricks that i should be aware before starting my build. I read some of the post in this forum and i know about the servo arm. Is there anything else? i.e. any particular step which should be done differently etc...
Also how accurate do you need to be when setting the camber links (and anything similar)? Does it need to be 77.5 mm exactly? I have built an EMB-1(Lc racing) before and i found it a bit hard to get the exact length set there (I have a caliper).
Any advice is appreciated.
 
Welcome Jim,

For me personal, I only have updated the servo arm, and have for spare the shock caps if necessary when the plastic ones will break.
But I am not an extreme basher so they will last I hope.
Front bumper is on order from Germany, now looking for a good wheelie-bar.

However, I can recommend the tekno pivot wrench and wheel wreching tool, they make life easy for you.

Have fun building your car.
 
The hardest thing I had during the build was getting the o-ring inside the shock cap. It’s like a game of cat and mouse. Doesn’t sound like a big deal but it was frustrating for me so sit down with a beer and just roll with it

Also don’t overfill the diffs or they will leak
 
The links should be the same as the corresponding link on the opposite side to start.

If you are asking if they need to be 77.500 on the dot no. But you should be able to get them within a few hundredths of a mm of each other if you have a set of calipers.
 
I wouldn’t worry too much about the camber links and turnbuckles.

Once the build Is ready you’ll want to put the servo and tires on and setup your truck. Camber is usually in the -2 deg. Nothing like a camber gauge and a really flat surface to do this.

Here is a link to the one I use:
https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/tools/monster-camber-gauge/

Here is what I use for toe in/out:
https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/tools/toe-in-gauge/

Leave the turnbuckles to the end, get all electronics on board including a battery, let the servo center itself and set the servo horn, arm and turnbuckles from there. I like the geometry to be as clean as possible and have minimal trim correction on the remote.

Last is the end point adjustment on your transmitter. Do it tires off first, you get a much better visibility on what is happening at the spindles. Tires on and on a flat surface to confirm the setup.
 
Thanks for the input dudes, should make things a bit easier. I will have a look at the tekno homepage and the vids. I am going to take it slow, build a bit by bit every night or so.
 
Thanks for the input dudes, should make things a bit easier. I will have a look at the tekno homepage and the vids. I am going to take it slow, build a bit by bit every night or so.
I'm sure everything goes fine.
Have fun.
 

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