• Welcome to Tekno RC Forums! Are you a Tekno RC fan? If so you're in luck as you've have arrived to the biggest and best Tekno RC community.

    Come join our community and ask your questions, show off your Tekno RCs and share your experience!

Front gear box and A block

Skynet5

Well-known member
Messages
64
Reaction score
16
So in haste I screwed the front a block into the front diff case without the bumper in place.
It pushed through and damaged the bottom lid screw hole of the diff case.

I had ordered two, so built now with the other unit.

I'm assuming this isn't super crucial and a bit of glue when I come to use it next time will be OK?

Rush rush, measure twice cut once.
 

Attachments

Billl DeLong

Well-known member
TF Excellence Award
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
631
Reaction score
535
Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET48, ET410, MT410, SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
Yes, CA or E6000 should hold in place for now, but I would replace the part for peace of mind regardless.

TEKNO offers a 50% Lifetime Warranty for any parts you mail in with no questions asked ;)
 

Skynet5

Well-known member
Messages
64
Reaction score
16
Yes, CA or E6000 should hold in place for now, but I would replace the part for peace of mind regardless.

TEKNO offers a 50% Lifetime Warranty for any parts you mail in with no questions asked ;)
Yeah not sure how easy it is in the uk. Postage would eat into most of the savings. They have a place in EU to mail to but still expensive.
E6000? I use ca to glue tyres.
 

Billl DeLong

Well-known member
TF Excellence Award
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
631
Reaction score
535
Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET48, ET410, MT410, SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
They have an address to ship to Greece which should be reasonable, you can always stock pile all of your parts and then send a large order of parts to make shipping costs more reasonable ;)

E6000 is the same as ShoeGoe or any tolulene based solvent that is a clear flexible rubber based glue, CA tend to be brittle and will be more likely to lose the screw where E6000 will hold it better.
 

Skynet5

Well-known member
Messages
64
Reaction score
16
Offering up the part to the chassis, I think tbh the bottom lid would stay firmly in place with out the screw. The sides of the lid (length wise) would sit tight against the chassis and wouldn't be moving anywhere by the looks of it.

I'm not using this one, but when I do I'll be sure to put a dap of shoo goo in the hole and and screw in just to give it a bit of extra strength.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

TBuggy

Premium Member
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
1,087
Reaction score
758
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET410, SCT410
I use it to grease the ring and pinion after being assembled. This way you can have it all closed up and shimmed just right without grease interfering. Once its how you want it you can add the grease and close it up.
 

Skynet5

Well-known member
Messages
64
Reaction score
16
I use it to grease the ring and pinion after being assembled. This way you can have it all closed up and shimmed just right without grease interfering. Once its how you want it you can add the grease and close it up.
Are you answering another question?
 

Skynet5

Well-known member
Messages
64
Reaction score
16
I'm struggling to see why this panel is there, why is panel removable in the first place? You can get into gearbox from the front and rear with just 6 screws.

Why have this access panel that is only accessible when it's actually off the chassis?
 

Skynet5

Well-known member
Messages
64
Reaction score
16
Check out my mysterious answer on post#6 to your question of the future!

I knew I wasn't crazy just telepathic!
Do you know the lottery numbers, for the UK national lottery or euro millions?

OK that makes sense I guess during a build. I will say I've don't needed to shim either gearboxes, all nice and tight, although I guess once I get some laps in it might loosen up.

So I think I'm worrying about nothing and the damage I've done to the part, whilst not superficial, isn't going to make a world of difference once all mounted to the chassis. One screw will be in, and the plate is pushed against the chassis so it ain't moving.

Cant believe I busted a gear box already. I'm getting better though at lining up jumps and controlling in the air.

The buggy does like to dip quite a bit (I say that but have no clue what is normal) , other than giving a bit of acceleration to nose up, is there some adjustments I should look at?
 
Last edited:

TBuggy

Premium Member
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
1,087
Reaction score
758
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET410, SCT410
The angle of the car in the air is dependent on a lot of things, the face of the jump can dictate it, ride height can change the angle your cars goes through the air, throttle control while taking off and landing will correct your projection 90+% of the time. Also the weight bias will affect. Sometimes small adjustments by moving the battery forward or in your case back make big differences. But if you are running the 2.0 I dont think there is much room for adjusting the battery.

Do you know the lottery numbers, for the UK national lottery or euro millions?

OK that makes sense I guess during a build. I will say I've don't needed to shim either gearboxes, all nice and tight, although I guess once I get some laps in it might loosen up.

So I think I'm worrying about nothing and the damage I've done to the part, whilst not superficial, isn't going to make a world of difference once all mounted to the chassis. One screw will be in, and the plate is pushed against the chassis so it ain't moving.

Cant believe I busted a gear box already. I'm getting better though at lining up jumps and controlling in the air.

The buggy does like to dip quite a bit (I say that but have no clue what is normal) , other than giving a bit of acceleration to nose up, is there some adjustments I should look at?
7, 22, 36, 44, 52 don't forget where you got the numbers!
 

Matthew_Armeni

Tekno RC Staff
Tekno RC Staff
Messages
54
Reaction score
78
I'm struggling to see why this panel is there, why is panel removable in the first place? You can get into gearbox from the front and rear with just 6 screws.

Why have this access panel that is only accessible when it's actually off the chassis?
The panel is there so that if you were to remove the front or rear clip for maintenance, your ring and pinion would be protected from dust, dirt, etc.
 

Recent Popular Liked

Top