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48.3 et48.3 Help me choose a motor and esc

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I had to use a 25mm spacer in order to clear the Graphene battery. Which is larger than most batteries, not just in height but the width.
Michael Meyer is working on a design with taller spacers so it will have room for Castle 1515 sized motors, and yeah racing sized fans.
 
still waiting to hear back from Michael Meyer. I seen 3mm thick carbon fiber at Avid Bearing website HERE. I wonder if I made my own if this would be strong enough? I am pretty handy with carpentry work, would be easy to whip something up.

Just found a 4mm 6x6 inch sheet HERE. Pretty sure 4mm would be thick enough.
 
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I will probaby just make my own, it may not look as good, but as long as it holds the esc in place I'll be happy... if that Myers dude had them in stock rdy too ship, then I would consider purchasing from him, but if he is being slow too respond to your messages I say go for it and build your own out of that carbon fiber... it will hold up :)
 
I will probaby just make my own, it may not look as good, but as long as it holds the esc in place I'll be happy... if that Myers dude had them in stock rdy too ship, then I would consider purchasing from him, but if he is being slow too respond to your messages I say go for it and build your own out of that carbon fiber... it will hold up :)

I emailed Kenny from Voltage Hobbies, I know he makes Arrma but if he feels like branching out now would be a good time :)
 
You can use the Yeah Racing heat sink but you have to space the plate up higher. This is my buggy I’m currently working on.

View attachment 448

curious, you mentioned 25mm spacers to clear the battery correct? How does the body fit when the esc is up so high?

I got my plate from Michael Meyer today and am struggling on what I can even do with it. My plan was to just turn it so the esc is in the back, over the brace. This will put the esc higher than the body mounts though. Seems to be the same situation no matter what way I try and turn this thing, the body will not be able to sit on the posts due to the esc hitting it. I was looking at your "slow truggy" and noticed you have relocated the receiver box and paced the esc in its old place. This is is a great solution, and very practical only I like the waterproof ability. Not that I go mashing in puddles, but every now and then I'll hit one.

#firstworldproblems lol

edit...another thought I have is to just turn the plate towards the rear and go ahead and cut a hole just big enough for the esc fan to pop up through.
 
curious, you mentioned 25mm spacers to clear the battery correct? How does the body fit when the esc is up so high?

I got my plate from Michael Meyer today and am struggling on what I can even do with it. My plan was to just turn it so the esc is in the back, over the brace. This will put the esc higher than the body mounts though. Seems to be the same situation no matter what way I try and turn this thing, the body will not be able to sit on the posts due to the esc hitting it. I was looking at your "slow truggy" and noticed you have relocated the receiver box and paced the esc in its old place. This is is a great solution, and very practical only I like the waterproof ability. Not that I go mashing in puddles, but every now and then I'll hit one.

#firstworldproblems lol

edit...another thought I have is to just turn the plate towards the rear and go ahead and cut a hole just big enough for the esc fan to pop up through.
Put it this way :
IMG_20180603_183332.jpg
 

This was my intention, but the body won't fit down onto the posts. You have a truck body, so it has been raised up higher and allows room for the esc towards the rear. I ordered some 22mm spacers and may attempt to place it over the battery. I found a good place for spacers, they have nearly any size you can ask for.

https://www.aluminumspacers.com/

At the point I was actually looking at the plate I was burnt already. I had just tried to run the ET, found a bad bearing in the diff case so I come back inside to replace it. I went back out and tried to run again, did a standing backflip and when I do these the tires balloon and turn. Well they turned, hit the body and gripped. This caused the steering to jerk and pulled the end off the steering linkage again. Came back in and replaced that, then it began to rain again. Needless to say I was pretty frustrated!

Here is a pic of the spacing. This is Max6, really like to use the MMX but it is even taller than the Hobbywing. If over the battery doesn't work out I may just cut a hole to allow the fan to pop up through the body and deal with finding another body style down the road.

20180621_063312.jpg
 
curious, you mentioned 25mm spacers to clear the battery correct? How does the body fit when the esc is up so high?

I got my plate from Michael Meyer today and am struggling on what I can even do with it. My plan was to just turn it so the esc is in the back, over the brace. This will put the esc higher than the body mounts though. Seems to be the same situation no matter what way I try and turn this thing, the body will not be able to sit on the posts due to the esc hitting it. I was looking at your "slow truggy" and noticed you have relocated the receiver box and paced the esc in its old place. This is is a great solution, and very practical only I like the waterproof ability. Not that I go mashing in puddles, but every now and then I'll hit one.

#firstworldproblems lol

edit...another thought I have is to just turn the plate towards the rear and go ahead and cut a hole just big enough for the esc fan to pop up through.
I'm using the custom ESC plate on my buggy which has a cage and unlimited height. I'm using a different battery and changed to 10mm spacers. I haven't tried using the plate on my truggy so I'm not sure what the best solution is, other than using a larger MT body.
 
I'm using the custom ESC plate on my buggy which has a cage and unlimited height. I'm using a different battery and changed to 10mm spacers. I haven't tried using the plate on my truggy so I'm not sure what the best solution is, other than using a larger MT body.

I actually want to use a MT body, but haven't put much thought into the rear body posts yet. The easy solution would be move one post to the center of the shock tower, already a hole there to place the body mount. Though this means only 1 body post in the rear, soon as I land upside down it's over with lol.
 
I actually want to use a MT body, but haven't put much thought into the rear body posts yet. The easy solution would be move one post to the center of the shock tower, already a hole there to place the body mount. Though this means only 1 body post in the rear, soon as I land upside down it's over with lol.
Look at my pic above, it's exactly what i've done and it work great. Plus if you land upside down, the wing protect your body. So go ahead and slap an mt body, it'll look much better
 
Look at my pic above, it's exactly what i've done and it work great. Plus if you land upside down, the wing protect your body. So go ahead and slap an mt body, it'll look much better

Instead of using the one existing hole and post I went ahead and drilled new holes in the tower. This gives me just enough room for the MMX ESC and bigger fan. I'm still using the LedFinger Assassin ET body but will move to a MT body when this one craps out. Thanks for the idea (y)

20180626_063045.jpg
 
Nice! Ceramic bearings are expensive. Are they that much better?
If you're just bashing then they are pretty much a complete waste of money.
 
If you're just bashing then they are pretty much a complete waste of money.

If you live in Texas the cooler running motor is worth the extra few bucks. Ceramic generates less heat, albeit its not a huge loss of heat (bout 10-20 degrees) but every little bit helps down here.
 
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