RCmaniac88
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let Me start by saying I have done little more then basic visual inspection at this point to figure out the issue and I may be missing something simple. I don’t usually into an issues on builds that I am not able to at least diagnose cause of fairly quickly, but the cause of this problem isn’t jumping out at me. I have a lot of builds under my belt, this year I built several Arrma hybrid full parts builds, I’m finishing up a 12s losi 5ive T build and this isn’t my first Tekno kit, I built a mt410 / ET48.3 hybrid earlier this year. so While I certainly may have missed something simple or made a dumb mistake, it would not from a lack of experience.
Problem: I get a clicking sound on hard braking. The clicking sound is like when you put a playing card on your bike wheels as a kid so it would hit the wheels spokes. I also started losing drive to the rear wheels. I took a quick look in the field and noticed the universal driveshaft coupling‘s grub screw loosened. I tightened the grub screw and figured the issue was resolved, but once I started driving again the sound on braking was still there. I thought it may have been something binding because I hadn’t adjusted my suspension yet, so I did a basic adjustment of droop and shock springs, but the sound is still there, I also tried removing the body to rule out anything rubbing but still had the issue. I applied throttle with the wheels off the ground and then hit the brakes to see if I could still hear the sound, I think it is still there, but hard to tell because the wheels stop too quick. rolling the rig on a workbench, it has perfect mesh sound and feel, nothing seams unusual Unless it’s driving.
I have to check more thoroughly but any inside or recommendations would be much appreciated. I’m guessing that the issue is something in the drivetrain that is loose or out of alignment enough to slip under load. the other possibility I thought of is it’s related to the front suspension compression during braking that causes binding of something.
The build details
i used mostly stock parts with the exception of m2c Aluminum rear brace, steering top plate and a few other generic aluminum pieces like a center brace and rear brace bracket. I also added front and rear t bone style Kydex bumpers. For electronics I went with a castle 1515 monster 6s combo and steering is handled by a Power HD brushless s50 servo. I also went with a little stiffer diff fluids then stock, I went 10k above stock for front and rear diff oil and 200k in the center.
tonight I am probably going to get deeper into things. I’ll pull off the front and rear clips and check mesh on ring and pinion, etc. I love these Tekno’s but they are tight on space inside and it can be fidley getting a proper look at everything
Problem: I get a clicking sound on hard braking. The clicking sound is like when you put a playing card on your bike wheels as a kid so it would hit the wheels spokes. I also started losing drive to the rear wheels. I took a quick look in the field and noticed the universal driveshaft coupling‘s grub screw loosened. I tightened the grub screw and figured the issue was resolved, but once I started driving again the sound on braking was still there. I thought it may have been something binding because I hadn’t adjusted my suspension yet, so I did a basic adjustment of droop and shock springs, but the sound is still there, I also tried removing the body to rule out anything rubbing but still had the issue. I applied throttle with the wheels off the ground and then hit the brakes to see if I could still hear the sound, I think it is still there, but hard to tell because the wheels stop too quick. rolling the rig on a workbench, it has perfect mesh sound and feel, nothing seams unusual Unless it’s driving.
I have to check more thoroughly but any inside or recommendations would be much appreciated. I’m guessing that the issue is something in the drivetrain that is loose or out of alignment enough to slip under load. the other possibility I thought of is it’s related to the front suspension compression during braking that causes binding of something.
The build details
i used mostly stock parts with the exception of m2c Aluminum rear brace, steering top plate and a few other generic aluminum pieces like a center brace and rear brace bracket. I also added front and rear t bone style Kydex bumpers. For electronics I went with a castle 1515 monster 6s combo and steering is handled by a Power HD brushless s50 servo. I also went with a little stiffer diff fluids then stock, I went 10k above stock for front and rear diff oil and 200k in the center.
tonight I am probably going to get deeper into things. I’ll pull off the front and rear clips and check mesh on ring and pinion, etc. I love these Tekno’s but they are tight on space inside and it can be fidley getting a proper look at everything