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Yet another ET48 2.0 build thread

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So I've come up against a couple of issues I hadn't thought of, the first is my battery packs, I only have 2 batteries that fit in the tray, the rest are way too long. What are people doing to fit longer packs in these truggys?

The second is the steering servo, I can't get this thing parallel as per the manual, I've had to use so much sub trim and the outside hole on the aluminum servo horn to get anywhere near enough turn in the left hand side. I tried extending and shortening the steering connecting rod and different positions on the spline, but it won't work nicely without a stack of left subtrim?

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How much subtrim are you having to use? You will pretty much always need to use some amount to line up your servo on any vehicle, that's what it's meant to be used for.
 
The way I setup my Tekno steering: (I also dislike subtrim and work on reducing it)
  1. Power your servo and center it
  2. Extend the arm that connects the servo horn to the servo saver until the ackerman (TKR8100B) is centered under the steering plate (TKR9104)
  3. Check the end points, they should be more or less symmetrical
  4. From there I work on the links to setup camber, toe and to make sure your truck drives straight
  5. Put the tires on and set end points on the remote. Don’t go too far, it will harm your servo. Ideally, give yourself a few percents of margin. Also, with suspension articulation you should notice that the truck is prone to bind more in compression. So I like to give a bit of room so that it actually never binds over the course of full articulation of the suspension.
  6. You are good to go
Don’t over think the parallel arms thing. Based on pics, your good.

I hear the new truggy has tons of steering (unlike the .3), so you should be good with my slightly more conservative approach.
Thanks Nicochau very much for all the details, I found my servo was too far either way on the spline to really get my steering centred using the adjustable connecting rod, I went to side that was closest. I'll definitely be checking all that you have recommended, I am really appreciative of your advice.
 
Body starting to take on some colour...

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The body came out ok, I had a few dramas with the paint bleeding so I had to try to remove some. It looks good from a distance, but there a few spots that could be a whole lot better.

I'm keen to get it out for a test drive!

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Got the setup done now ready for the track, I'll hopefully get to run this weekend, but it's been raining so I might not. Once I've given it a track run, it will be turned into my basher, unless I love it so much on the track that I won't be able to start to beat on it.

Finished the paint job and stickers, I looks good enough. I wish I had a set of new tyres to get some shots of it before I destroy the body.

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The way I setup my Tekno steering: (I also dislike subtrim and work on reducing it)
  1. Power your servo and center it
  2. Extend the arm that connects the servo horn to the servo saver until the ackerman (TKR8100B) is centered under the steering plate (TKR9104)
  3. Check the end points, they should be more or less symmetrical
  4. From there I work on the links to setup camber, toe and to make sure your truck drives straight
  5. Put the tires on and set end points on the remote. Don’t go too far, it will harm your servo. Ideally, give yourself a few percents of margin. Also, with suspension articulation you should notice that the truck is prone to bind more in compression. So I like to give a bit of room so that it actually never binds over the course of full articulation of the suspension.
  6. You are good to go
Don’t over think the parallel arms thing. Based on pics, your good.

I hear the new truggy has tons of steering (unlike the .3), so you should be good with my slightly more conservative approach.
Thank you very much for this info, I'm pretty close to getting it setup as you described above now, just need to get out to the track to do a proper test run again, it doesn't have enough steering on my first race meet, but I think it is fixed up now.
 
damn looks legit. How did you get the ESC mount to attach to the chassis in that location?

Im planning on doing the 1520 route as well and running 4s. Just don't want to deal with heat issues so I like going overboard where I can.

Having completed and ran you build, any recommendations for someone who is planning a very similar build?
 

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