ET48 2.0 Basher

[SHWA]

I am in the process of completing my ET48 2.0 Thread. This is my first kit build since a Nikko Dandy Dash ~1988. So, it has been a while. Handed down my Slash Ultimate 4x4 to my daughter and tried to buy a Teckno ET48.3 last March but as everyone knows they were discontinued until the ET48 2.0 was released. It has been a long wait but I am enjoying every minute of building the kit.

I want to send a big shout out to Ifti Bashir (@Ifti) for his build videos on YouTube. They were a fantastic resource as I built my truggy.

I am close to being finished. Mainly tuning and paint left. I did a bodyless run last night and this thing will absolutely fly on 4S. Can't imagine what she will be like on 6S.

• Kit: Tekno ET48 2.0
• Transmitter: Futaba 4PM
• Receiver: Futaba R334SBS
• Hobbywing EZRun Max8 Waterproof Brushless ESC/Motor Combo (2200kV) w/Program Box
• Hobbywing C4 Motor Heatsink & Fan Combo
• Pro-Line Badlands 3.8" Tire 1/2" Offset Wheel (2) (Black) w/Desperado 17mm MT Wheel
• ProTek RC Steel Mod 1 Pinion Gear (5mm Bore) (16T)
• Savox SB-2292SG Black Edition Monster Torque Brushless Steel Gear Servo (High Voltage)
• Tekno Aluminum Servo Horn
• Tekno RC Aluminum Sway Bar Collars

 

[SHWA]

 

[SHWA]

 

[SHWA]

 

[SHWA]

 

[SHWA]

 

[SHWA]

I have CNHL 4S & 6S batteries and am using AMASS XT150 connectors.

 

[SHWA]

I also built my own power supply to go with my Junsi iCharger X8.

• Junsi iCharger X8 Lilo/LiPo/Life/NiMH/NiCD DC Battery Charger (8S/30A/1100W)
• HP 579229-001 1200W Switching Power Supply HSTNS-PD19 DPS-1200FB-1 A

 

[SHWA]

Finished Painting. Used Spaz Stix rattle cans. Not a lot of experience doing this so I am pretty happy with the results. The fade is not perfect but not bad. Very happy with the colors.

• Paint: Spaz Stix
  • Sapphire Blue Pearl (SZX16029) = Front
  • Ultimate Black Backer (SZX10209) = Front & Bed Backer
  • Silver Metallic (SZX00309) = Rear
  • Color Changing Paint Orange/Purple/Teal (SZX05209) = Bed

 

[SHWA]

Mounted on the truck. It is a tight fit getting it on especially with the motor heatsink and fan. Still need to add stickers.

 

[SHWA]

I also used gorilla tape to protect the paint as well as to give more strength to the body.

 

[SHWA]

Finally finished with stickers. Diesel likes it too!!!

 

[PrimaRC]

Came out really well! Bet you're itching to drive it?

 

[SHWA]

Came out really well! Bet you're itching to drive it?

Yes, it has been raining here for a week so I haven't gotten to do much. Hopefully this week things will dry out a bit.

 

[PrimaRC]

Yes, it has been raining here for a week so I haven't gotten to do much. Hopefully this week things will dry out a bit.

I used to drive in the rain when I was desperate, but it just ruins things to much. Hope you get a good chance to drive soon!

 

[SHWA]

I have a quick question on Servo's. I have a Savox SB-2292SG Black Edition Monster Torque Brushless Steel Gear Servo which seams to be pretty good one from the numbers.

• Specifications:
• Torque:

• • @6V: 305 oz-in (22 kg-cm)
  • @7.4V: 430 oz-in (31 kg-cm)
  • @8.4V: 624.9 oz-in (45.0 kg-cm)
• Speed:
  • @6V: 0.085/60° sec
  • @7.4V: 0.07/60° sec
  • @8.4V: .055/60° sec

Once I got the Tekno metal servo horn it seems to be working.

My question is why you would want to stick with 6V if your system can handle 7.4V or 8.4V? My esc has a setting for 7.4V which I chose but have seen threads where people have talked about sticking with 6V and I don't understand why you would want to do that.

Thanks in advance for answering what may be a noob question.

 

[PrimaRC]

I have a quick question on Servo's. I have a Savox SB-2292SG Black Edition Monster Torque Brushless Steel Gear Servo which seams to be pretty good one from the numbers.

• Specifications:
• Torque:

• • @6V: 305 oz-in (22 kg-cm)
  • @7.4V: 430 oz-in (31 kg-cm)
  • @8.4V: 624.9 oz-in (45.0 kg-cm)
• Speed:
  • @6V: 0.085/60° sec
  • @7.4V: 0.07/60° sec
  • @8.4V: .055/60° sec

Once I got the Tekno metal servo horn it seems to be working.

My question is why you would want to stick with 6V if your system can handle 7.4V or 8.4V? My esc has a setting for 7.4V which I chose but have seen threads where people have talked about sticking with 6V and I don't understand why you would want to do that.

Thanks in advance for answering what may be a noob question.

I can only guess it might be easier on the servo, you wouldn't be pushing it so hard and fast, maybe?

Otherwise the only reason I would think as you mentioned above, is that you haven't got a compatible hv receiver?

 

[Ifti]

I always stick mine straight to 7.4v!

 

[SHWA]

For those of you running 6s on your ET48 2.0 how do you keep the wheels down on the ground? I ran mine on Saturday and at 1/4 throttle was flying. Tried to increase to 1/2 throttle and was sliding across the parking lot on my top. Was using 16T pinion which promptly lead to overheating. So will be sticking with 4s most of the time and my have to go down to 15T pinion when I want to pull out the 6s unless people have other suggestions.

Motor & ESC are the Hobbywing Max 8 combo 2200kV.

 

[NO02]

For those of you running 6s on your ET48 2.0 how do you keep the wheels down on the ground? I ran mine on Saturday and at 1/4 throttle was flying. Tried to increase to 1/2 throttle and was sliding across the parking lot on my top. Was using 16T pinion which promptly lead to overheating. So will be sticking with 4s most of the time and my have to go down to 15T pinion when I want to pull out the 6s unless people have other suggestions.

Motor & ESC are the Hobbywing Max 8 combo 2200kV.

You should be looking at motors in the 1500-1800kV range for 6s.