48.3 Tenacity DB48.3

[TEKNOJ]

Servo went out while doing a warm up in the living room.

 

[TEKNOJ]

Just need wheels n tires!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304152000217
anybody tried the powerhobby tires? i am struggling with the decision of 2.8" MT tires or spending a bit more for some 2.2 wheels and crawler tires. Im not going to run the vanquish wheels or anything aluminum, thats just too much. having a 17mm hex kind of puts you in a narrow market, well somewhat.
For the price you cant beat the duratrax brand, currently i have a set of buggy size lockups and although they are worn out in the middle, i can tell they are a great tire. I might decide to get those if i dont go the powerhobby route.
I run the MX badlands on my Losi SCT and they are good, but would like to try other tires on the buggy. the proline stuff looks good, its a little more expensive, and of course requires the hex adapter set.
Going the 2.2 route, I like the U4 G8 hyrax. it can mount on the raid SC wheel because it has the SC bead. Its a little narrower than the 2.8 tires, and its taller. Then, Im pretty sure it would need some closed cell foams, and of course the hex adapter set to make it a 17mm hex wheel. The tires alone however, cost as much as the premounted powerhobby or the duratrax, which are already a 17mm hex wheel.

 

[TEKNOJ]

powerhobby 2.8 defender belted 17mm hex, 1/2" offset- about $40
5.05"(128mm) x 2.7"(69mm)

powerhobby 2.8 raptor belted 17mm hex, 1/2" offset- also about $40
same dimension as above

Just a few MM taller than most proline stuff, while a bit slimmer width wise which I like, and the tread design looks effective.

duratrax 2.8 sixpack belted 17mm hex 1/2" offset- about$40
5.4"(~136mm) x 2.8"(70mm)

duratrax 2.8 lockup belted 17mm hex, 1/2" offset- about $40
same dimension as above

Even taller than the powerhobby stuff which is real nice for the DB48, and about the same width, its only a couple MM's slimmer than proline. We all know this is a good brand for the price they ask. Not sure what the offset would do though.

Then you have this Jetko brand which appears to be a knock off proline wheel?? I just wonder about the foam inserts with a brand like this, and the tread designs are a little different. On ebay there is a picture of the foam but no explanation if its a closed or open cell. Im not a foam insert expert so i couldnt tell you what it is. Im trying to insert the picture but its coming out like a mini thumbnail and just gets blurry if i try to enlarge it. I think they are also belted. It also seems like they come with all the removeable hex pieces.
About the same height as the proline stuff, significantly slimmer by several MM's, which i like.

Jetko 2.8MT king cobra (belted?) 17mm hex, 3/4" backspacing with removeable hex- about $40
4-7/8"(~124mm) x 2-1/2"(~63mm)

Jetko 2.8MT tomahawk (belted?) 17mm hex, 3/4" backspacing, removeable hex- about $40
same dimensions as above

Jetko 2.8MT rockform (belted?) 17mm hex, 3/4" backspacing, removeable hex- about $40
same dimensions as above

There we go!!

 

[TEKNOJ]

browsing around on youtube it looks like the powerhobbys do great on your Xmaxx, granite, outcast n such. 6S 3.8" type stuff, no ballooning at all. the raptor seems to me like its a badlands type tread with more lug on the sidewall. More traction roll for sure. theres a guy running his ET48 in some florida terrain and it does what the truggy does. The defender is probably heavier and definatley more of a mud terrain.
the duratrax sixpack has decent reviews, mostly traxxas stuff and some sentons running that, and seems to be badlands/ raptor type tread just smaller lugs and slightly different pattern. smaller lugs could be better for me on the loose dirt and grass. the lockup looks almost trencher like in tread pattern, and with the lugs being in a straight line, they could be almost paddle like.
Not too much stuff on the tube about jetko, in real life they look like they have a low profile tire like the sweeps all terrain.
I feel like i should buy a couple sets for testing, but its not in the budget right now.
I cant be the only person obsessing over tire choices just for "bashing" right?

* I wish I knew what these weighed........thats a big consideration. I think I am leaning towards the duratrax six pack tire. The duratrax are the tallest out of the 2.8" MT lineup, and I do want tall.

 

[TEKNOJ]

Its really quiet here so i started a new thread on our affiliate to get some more feedback!
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/what-tires-do-we-all-like.134540/post-1336508

 

[TEKNOJ]

I was too impatient to wait so I ordered the six packs. There was no informational input over there either. I can see why, it has to be an unspoken rule of, "buy it, try it, see what YOU like not what we like"......

 

[VRC]

I was too impatient to wait so I ordered the six packs. There was no informational input over there either. I can see why, it has to be an unspoken rule of, "buy it, try it, see what YOU like not what we like"......

I used to run proline max 2.8’s on that buggy with 4mm hub extenders on 4s. I wouldn’t run them with 6s. They worked great! Glad the buggy’s coming along!

 

[TEKNOJ]

With the +4mm hex hubs tekno offers, these 1/2” offset 2.8” MT tires have zero clearance issues. I wasn’t sold on the 2.8 tires from the looks of pictures. But in real life, hell yes. The lugs are as big as the badlands 2.2” sct tires on the losi, they look real good. There’s actually one more lug along the sidewalls than what the badlands have.
It doesn’t appear that it will get the “chassis slap”, now though. I just read a thread about that.......
anyway i will have to play around with ride height and adjust the springs. Im still adjusting other things here and there but someday I'll post up a setup sheet.

 

[TEKNOJ]

Is the entire chassis supposed to slap on a real good landing or is the rear end slap just enough???
I probably shouldnt even fret, this isnt a stunt buggy or a big jumper. I'm not that abusive, I will just adjust shock spring collars as i see fit?

 

[Nicochau]

Is the entire chassis supposed to slap on a real good landing or is the rear end slap just enough???
I probably shouldnt even fret, this isnt a stunt buggy or a big jumper. I'm not that abusive, I will just adjust shock spring collars as i see fit?

Yes, it is supposed to slap front and rear otherwise it is the shocks and tower who have to absorb the landing energy.

 

[TEKNOJ]

since i have some downtime waiting for my servo to arrive in the mail, I have started to change out my diff fluids. i got the front filled with 12.5, Im going 15 in the center and 12.5 in the rear. I had 7 front, 7 center, and 6 rear. I suspect the heavier tires would add extra stress or heat to the lighter weight oils. I also extended the backyard track about 30 FT, and widened it a little, and added a section of rock for the U4 effect. I drove the 22S on it earlier and i can definatley appreciate more room to pick up speed. I think it will suit the DB48 very well. Im still unsure on final layout of it, so right now its just an oval with a few jumps.
I also ordered an M2C V3 tower brace, hopefully it supports the rear gearbox a little better, right now, the gearbox is somewhat warped from when the previous shock towers were bent, and the threads for the tower mounts are just about stripped. I really dont want to suffer more downtime to get a new one under warranty.

 

[TEKNOJ]

Yes, it is supposed to slap front and rear otherwise it is the shocks and tower who have to absorb the landing energy.

so i may have to get some softer springs or really lower the ride height since the duratrax tires are taller than the buggy tires? I will fiddle around with it.......

 

[Nicochau]

so i may have to get some softer springs or really lower the ride height since the duratrax tires are taller than the buggy tires? I will fiddle around with it.......

No need to touch the springs or the ride height, just make sur the chassis is touching the ground before the shocks bottom out when you push your rc down.

If the shocks go to full travel before the chassis slaps the ground and prevent the chassis slap, then you have a problem.

 

[TEKNOJ]

No need to touch the springs or the ride height, just make sur the chassis is touching the ground before the shocks bottom out when you push your rc down.

If the shocks go to full travel before the chassis slaps the ground and prevent the chassis slap, then you have a problem.

I think the front does compress the shocks completely before the chassis will touch ground. maybe shorter shock shafts??

 

[TEKNOJ]

took it for a quick spin round the track last night. the light that comes with the tenacity cage is blinding. It did well, real fast and seems to wheelie just a bit if you give it a lot of throttle at low speeds. motor temp was pretty warm but i was able to hold my finger on it for several seconds so i dont think that is hot for a brushless motor. I dont have a laser temp gun, I usually use my multi meter with a contact type temp device. I just put in an order for the yeah racing heatsink and an aluminum caged fan. I have 2 plastic hobbywing fans from when i ordered motors or something, so i will probably use one plastic, one aluminum. Also got a 15T pinion, Im currently on 16T. Id like the motor to be a touch cooler, due to the fact I didnt really run it very hard.
The duratrax tires have a wobble to em, I may try to balance them with some moulding clay, but they sure do grip. I literally saw grass getting chopped down and flung in the air, it was cool. The puppies sure do love to chase it (there great danes).
at this point the front of the chassis doesnt touch the ground when i push it all the way down, and the rear barely does but it does take some effort. I may try some shorter shock shafts in the future but for now im not too concerned, the jumps on my track are not huge, and I never saw the chassis get close to touching the ground from them. I have the yellow LF springs in the rear and the gray LF up front, going off the outdoor very bumpy, rutted set up sheet. no part number off the top of my head but its on my setup sheet. Once I print out another blank I can transfer down what Ive got and will eventually post it. I can say I removed the rear sway bar for more articulation, I read here that someone liked it like that and I think I do as well.

 

[TEKNOJ]

another 10-15 min drive........easier to see in the daytime. what a blast to drive. It really mobs over everything, it can really fly over the Idaho river rock section. wheelies easily if it hits a bump or on hard throttle, that could be due to the washer placement extending the wheelbase. It is so much more graceful than my losi 22s. Of course were comparing 2WD to 4WD and apples to oranges, copper to platinum. I would say motor temp is good, I need to get a number though. finger check says OK. ESC feels fine, I didnt check the center diff though. Im now on 12.5K-F, 15K-C, 12.5K-R diff oils. About double from when i started with the buggy tires. Its flash point brand. Until I learn its quirks of handling, and how to really drive it, I think my set up is just perfect. The hinge pin inserts are all stock rear, in the front i used what the outdoor very bumpy/rutted called for. There were not enough of those to do front and rear. So, toe out in the front, toe in on the rear is what I see. Front wheels camber out (top of tire leaning out??), rear wheels lean in, I didnt measure any of this either, the set up sheet tells you what your at, but I adjusted some things by eye if it looked excessive. Im not racing this thing either, box stock would probably be a great set up. Im pretty sure the 4074 is a truggy sized motor so, it does have power.
I know people love the MT for bashing and stunting, for me, this is the shiznitt, I dont go for backflips though so I would never say the MT410 doesnt have a purpose because we all know it does. I also dont prefer the monster truck look over a desert buggy or desert truck, Its all just preference at that point.

 

[TEKNOJ]

I am having trouble posting up my set up sheet that is large enough to read, straight from the TEKNO site will not post, and its a PDF which shouldnt be an issue. I dont get the option to save as a jpg.

 

[TEKNOJ]

 

[TEKNOJ]

I've decided that I'm going to buy some 2.8" badlands, the OG version. They are just less than 5" tall and about 2" wide or 126mmX53mm. My duratrax are about 5-3/8" tall or 135mmX70mm. that 9 or 10mm should help get the chassis slap back, and I really want to try the badlands tread design. I think the smaller lugs will be better for the loose dirt, and I want to try "belting" them with some kevlar or even vectran braid. Bring the weight back down a smidgey.
I give credit to the duratrax though, they do great all around, and don't balloon at all on 4S.
I am now on a 15T pinion, running the yeah racing 40mm heatsink with a team brood aluminum case fan. Heat is in check. This weekend I will swap fluids out to 40K/80K/15-20-30K(not sure, Ill see what I have). That should prevent my diffs from cooking, the center diff gets pretty hot with 15K fluid.

 

[TEKNOJ]

I’ve put on some pre-mount 2.8 OG badlands. The chassis slap has returned. They are slightly less diameter than the duratrax. I even belted them with some Kevlar braid.