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ET48 2.0 Monster Truggy

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RustyUs

Well-known member
Build Thread Contributor
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Location
Pennsylvania, USA
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. ET410
  4. SCT410
Backyard track bashing fun for this one. Just adding larger wheels/tires to the truggy is all I plan to do for the moment. No to the moon and back launchings.

I searched high and low for the right preowned ET48 2.0 platform. Finally found one that wasn't all beat up. A very low runtime super clean ride called my name.
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Since all the bag-by-bag fun build stuff has already been done, this will be quick/short thread. :D
 
Why is it a good idea to dremel the diff outdrive edges?
 
Why is it a good idea to dremel the diff outdrive edges?
Previous own was a dedicated racer. Taking off the sharp edges/black coating... speeds up break-in process...more mechanical grip, I guess. I never took a Dremel to any outdrive that I can remember. I just let drivelines break-in the old fashion way. I highly doubt I would be able to tell any difference in handling on my rough track.
 
That makes sense for a hardcore racer then. How many Tekno rigs do you have now?
 
Turnbuckles

First thing I did was change the orientation of the turnbuckles... notches to the right. Tekno's threads are reversed from every other brand I've used. It drives me nuts 🤪 So, as no to undue my way of tightening/loosening camber/steering links... all my Tekno rides have their turnbuckle notches to the right side of the vehicle.
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Carbon Fiber

I was always under the impression that a person should "seal" carbon fiber components. The spindle arms are probably small enough, and tucked away, to not worry about delamination. Hard habit to break? CA glue it shall be.
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Turnbuckles

First thing I did was change the orientation of the turnbuckles... notches to the right. Tekno's threads are reversed from every other brand I've used. It drives me nuts 🤪 So, as no to undue my way of tightening/loosening camber/steering links... all my Tekno rides have their turnbuckle notches to the right side of the vehicle.
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The manual says put the markings to the left. I put the turnbuckle markings to the right... just on my rides that use Tekno's turnbuckles. The threads, I kid you not, are reversed compared to every other brand I've used.
Tekno turnbuckle on top (in the picture below).
Tekno's threads are \\\\\\\\\\\------///////////
All the others are /////////------\\\\\\\\\\ 🤷‍♂️
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Hobbywing EZRun Max8 G2S

I knew the Hobbywing EZRun Max8 G2S was going to be a tight fit, but sheesh... I couldn't do it the way others shoehorned the thing onboard. Hobbywing deciding to make the Max8 a sensored ESC was great... its just that the sensor cable placement poses a problem in confined places. I could have gone with bending/tucking/cramming/hoping for the best... nah.

Two layers of double sided tape, zip ties, mini cable organizers... I'm calling it good.
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Mayako Mother May I

Finally taking care of the anti-sway bar collars. Tired of messing with the stock plastic... things. They are about useless. The set screws hold for about a second and then its a mess. I don't even run anti-sway bars on my buggy.

I chose to go a cheaper route with Mayako "collets" as they call 'em. For the rear of the truggy, the stock collars it will be for now. This is a basher RC for Pete's sake, and I really don't have any fast corners to be concerned with. I foresee the rears to be taken off very soon.

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Servo

Having survived some brutal SCT action, in the past year, prompted me into buying a few more AGFrc A73BHLW servos. Finding them on sale was pretty much the reasoning for me going this route. I probably wouldn't recommend doing what I'm doing if you are planning on racing. AGFrc tip toes around their 1/10th and 1/8th scale servo recommendations.

I'm runnin' the truggy's servo saver @ 2 turns from fully tight. We'll see how long this thing lasts.
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